agladstone Posted July 2, 2017 Share Posted July 2, 2017 This would be a split / y USB cable (just like the IFI Gemni USB cable ). My plan as of now is to have both wires of the y cable be exactly the same as the USB JSSG on both the power only side and the data only side (2 USB A connectors on the one end - 1 power only and one data only) and then the Y going into one USB B connector on the other end. However, I'm not sure the correct way to have Ghent make this cable for me and if the USB A plugs for Power and for data should each be wired / soldered differently or not and if the Power side should also have the JSSG or not? There is no Canare or D.C. In this cable - USB only. Link to comment
Cornan Posted July 2, 2017 Share Posted July 2, 2017 5 hours ago, jamesg11 said: Well, yes, that's a thought - there are 'improved' phono cables out there for my SME 20/2A (V arm), but they are hellishly expensive. Are such possible with this new cabling approach? I still have'nt started to put it together. I'll hope they will make a difference for the better, but if they will outperform any expensive cable it too much to ask for. I can just report back if they improve upon my current Jelco phono cables. Link to comment
Solid-State Posted July 2, 2017 Share Posted July 2, 2017 http://silversonic.com/products/bulk-wire-and-cable/bulk-interconnect-cable/pro-studio-audio-interconnect-cable/ Wery good one for Phono cables Link to comment
greenleo Posted July 2, 2017 Share Posted July 2, 2017 On 2017/4/21 at 3:09 AM, JohnSwenson said: There has been a lot of posts recently in other threads about making your own DC cables for LPS-1, JS-2, Y adapters etc. I'm going to attempt to give some theory behind DC cables and CA and some hints for making your own, and some results of my own experience. ... Hi John, May I clarify that the DC cables in your text 1. are for LPS-1 connect to the digital device like mR, Regen, txUSBUltra? 2. NOT for the energizer connect to the LPS-1, right? Regards Link to comment
R1200CL Posted July 2, 2017 Share Posted July 2, 2017 7 hours ago, agladstone said: This would be a split / y USB cable (just like the IFI Gemni USB cable ). My plan as of now is to have both wires of the y cable be exactly the same as the USB JSSG on both the power only side and the data only side (2 USB A connectors on the one end - 1 power only and one data only) and then the Y going into one USB B connector on the other end. However, I'm not sure the correct way to have Ghent make this cable for me and if the USB A plugs for Power and for data should each be wired / soldered differently or not and if the Power side should also have the JSSG or not? There is no Canare or D.C. In this cable - USB only. Very interesting project. If I where to do I would made the power cable with a Canare star quad, and with the option to use the cable as stand alone power cable. Exactly equal to the power cable already is offered. This would allow you to use a LPS-1 at a later stage. I would only use JSSG on the data cable. Hm, maybe I have to order one myself ? Link to comment
tboooe Posted July 2, 2017 Share Posted July 2, 2017 6 hours ago, R1200CL said: Very interesting project. If I where to do I would made the power cable with a Canare star quad, and with the option to use the cable as stand alone power cable. Exactly equal to the power cable already is offered. This would allow you to use a LPS-1 at a later stage. I would only use JSSG on the data cable. Hm, maybe I have to order one myself ? I agree. I would make a cable similar to the Curious USB cable where there is a female DC barrel as close to the downstream USB connector as possible. In this configuration the power side doesn't have to be star quad since it's so short. As R1200CL points out, this will allow you to use a regular DC cable to supply power to the USB cable. Hey, Im in to purchase one of these split usb cables if it's made like this. I've been thinking about replacing my Lightspeed cable anyway. Please let me know if Ghent can make this. 12TB NAS >> i7-6700 Server/Control PC >> i3-5015u NAA >> Singxer SU-1 DDC (modded) >> Holo Spring L3 DAC >> Accustic Arts Power 1 int amp >> Sonus Faber Guaneri Evolution speakers + REL T/5i sub (x2) Other components: UpTone Audio LPS1.2/IsoRegen, Fiber Switch and FMC, Windows Server 2016 OS, Audiophile Optimizer 3.0, Fidelizer Pro 6, HQ Player, Roonserver, PS Audio P3 AC regenerator, HDPlex 400W ATX & 200W Linear PSU, Light Harmonic Lightspeed Split USB cable, Synergistic Research Tungsten AC power cords, Tara Labs The One speaker cables, Tara Labs The Two Extended with HFX Station IC, Oyaide R1 outlets, Stillpoints Ultra Mini footers, Hi-Fi Tuning fuses, Vicoustic/RealTraps/GIK room treatments Link to comment
agladstone Posted July 2, 2017 Share Posted July 2, 2017 Ghent is making me one, so I guess I'll be the guinea pig on this one Link to comment
Popular Post agladstone Posted July 3, 2017 Popular Post Share Posted July 3, 2017 This is a mark-up of how the Y USB JSSG cable will be made. Cornan and MikeyFresh 2 Link to comment
tboooe Posted July 3, 2017 Share Posted July 3, 2017 49 minutes ago, agladstone said: This is a mark-up of how the Y USB JSSG cable will be made. Ok. I'm going to ask if can make one with a female DC barrel connector as close to the USB b side as possible. 12TB NAS >> i7-6700 Server/Control PC >> i3-5015u NAA >> Singxer SU-1 DDC (modded) >> Holo Spring L3 DAC >> Accustic Arts Power 1 int amp >> Sonus Faber Guaneri Evolution speakers + REL T/5i sub (x2) Other components: UpTone Audio LPS1.2/IsoRegen, Fiber Switch and FMC, Windows Server 2016 OS, Audiophile Optimizer 3.0, Fidelizer Pro 6, HQ Player, Roonserver, PS Audio P3 AC regenerator, HDPlex 400W ATX & 200W Linear PSU, Light Harmonic Lightspeed Split USB cable, Synergistic Research Tungsten AC power cords, Tara Labs The One speaker cables, Tara Labs The Two Extended with HFX Station IC, Oyaide R1 outlets, Stillpoints Ultra Mini footers, Hi-Fi Tuning fuses, Vicoustic/RealTraps/GIK room treatments Link to comment
JohnSwenson Posted July 3, 2017 Author Share Posted July 3, 2017 19 hours ago, greenleo said: Hi John, May I clarify that the DC cables in your text 1. are for LPS-1 connect to the digital device like mR, Regen, txUSBUltra? 2. NOT for the energizer connect to the LPS-1, right? Regards Well you CAN use a starquad cable for the LPS-1 feeder, but it will have no advantage there, it doesn't hurt but it doesn't have any advantage either. Such cables are not JUST for use with an LPS-1, they can be advantageous for any DC source and load, primarily if it is a digital device. It may help with purely analog devices such as a preamp or amp. John S. Link to comment
agladstone Posted July 3, 2017 Share Posted July 3, 2017 47 minutes ago, tboooe said: Ok. I'm going to ask if can make one with a female DC barrel connector as close to the USB b side as possible. For the VBUS or for the Ground? If for VBUS (or ground) , I guess that wire would need to be external of the sleeve? Maybe I should try the same? Ghent is already giving me a little "this is a very difficult cable to make" slack from the above design request, so maybe I should leave it as is:) Link to comment
asdf1000 Posted July 3, 2017 Share Posted July 3, 2017 Hi John @JohnSwenson Is the external wire method for digital RCA coax cables exactly the same as for analogue RCA cables? So the external wire is ONLY connected to the shield wire, and both shield wire and external do NOT connect to the RCA connectors in any way? Or is it different for a digital RCA cable? Also, can you recommend a good DIY digital RCA cable? The Belden 1694A? Or Canare LV-61S? The Belden 1694A has both a foil and a braided shield - which shield do you solder the external wire to? I'm looking to make one for my old man's (dad's) CD player setup. Many thanks again Link to comment
R1200CL Posted July 3, 2017 Share Posted July 3, 2017 10 hours ago, tboooe said: Ok. I'm going to ask if can make one with a female DC barrel connector as close to the USB b side as possible. I'm ready for one as well. The JSSG only on data, right ? But why not use star quad for data as well ? Link to comment
Speedskater Posted July 3, 2017 Share Posted July 3, 2017 Both Belden 1694A? and Canare LV-61S are good 75 Ohm digital cables. A digital cable carries a radio frequency signal, so a heavy braided shield is not as important as with an analog cable. A digital cable doesn't need an external PEC :: Paralleled Earth Conductor wire. In any case, if I were to add an external PEC :: Paralleled Earth Conductor wire, I would attach it chassis to chassis but taped to the analog cables. Link to comment
Speedskater Posted July 3, 2017 Share Posted July 3, 2017 8 minutes ago, R1200CL said: But why not use star quad for data as well ? Star-quad is not a 75 Ohm coax cable and I don't think that it's a 110 Ohm Shielded Twisted Pair either. Link to comment
greenleo Posted July 3, 2017 Share Posted July 3, 2017 10 hours ago, JohnSwenson said: Well you CAN use a starquad cable for the LPS-1 feeder, but it will have no advantage there, it doesn't hurt but it doesn't have any advantage either. Such cables are not JUST for use with an LPS-1, they can be advantageous for any DC source and load, primarily if it is a digital device. It may help with purely analog devices such as a preamp or amp. John S. Thank you John for your reply. However, I measured that the current output from LPS-1 to mR and found it effectively a constant, which contradicts with your words. Any suggestion why? Link to comment
Popular Post gstew Posted July 3, 2017 Popular Post Share Posted July 3, 2017 To get back on topic (DIY!), see attached pictures of my bench-work a few weeks ago.I use LPS-1's (and other supplies) feeding a variety of EQ & different setups. To help me NOT plug gear in wrong, I do some standardization of plugs for types of uses and voltage ranges. For 5V-35V DC connections I use plugs borrowed from my model airplane hobby, the Deans High-Current 2-Pin.When I first received my LPS-1s, I cut the included output cables in half & installed one of these plugs on each cut end to provide the proper adapters for my DIY'd equipment. They provided both the proper interface I needed AND reduced the cable length by half. Sometimes I'd also reuse the end from a wall-wart for a quick and dirty adapter cable.Recently I made a bunch of cables using 'naked' Canare 4S6 at a length sized for most of my implementations. I used some fairly inexpensive these 2.1mm plugs from Ebay.Both the Canare wire and the EBay plugs are not bad to work with, the main issue is that the insulation used in both is not very resistant to soldering temperatures. That's not an issue when soldering the cables to a typical plug, but I did ruin one of the plugs trying to solder the wire ground directly to the plug body.Been using 4-cross (starquad) cables for many, many years just for the benefits John outlined. I first read of the benefits in an early International Audio Review, where J. Peter Moncrieff recommended a specific 4-cross Romex wire as his then near-reference speaker cable... of course this was in the days before even mid-bux interconnects and speaker wires were available. I found some and it wasn't bad for the day... it found good use as power supply umbilical and AC power cables later. Also attached is a picture of a DIY rebuild I did to a Magnavox CD player back in the early '90s showing 4-cross power supply umbilical cables using speaker cable from Vecteur.Thanks John!Greg in Mississippi Cornan and MikeyFresh 2 Everything Matters! 2 systems... Well-Tempered Refs->ET-2.5->DIY or Lounge LCR MkII phono stages Standalone digital Sony HAP Z1-ES or SDTrans384/Soekris DAM DAC Networked digital Zotac PI320-W2 LMS Server -> EtherRegen -> USBBridge Sig -> Katana / Ian GB / Soerkis / Buffalo-IIIPro DACs Passive S&B TX102 TVC or ladder attenuators -> BHK-250 -> Eminent Tech LFT-VIII / IV / VI ALL gear modified / DIY'd; cables MIT; all supplies DIY’d or LPS-1.2s w/HUGE Ultracaps; Audio gear on DIY AC filters + PS Aud P15s; misc gear on separate AC w/filters Link to comment
R1200CL Posted July 3, 2017 Share Posted July 3, 2017 3 hours ago, Speedskater said: Star-quad is not a 75 Ohm coax cable and I don't think that it's a 110 Ohm Shielded Twisted Pair either. I'm talking USB. I think you're in another domain ? Link to comment
Speedskater Posted July 3, 2017 Share Posted July 3, 2017 Sorry, I thought you meant a digital audio SP/DIF or AES/EBU cable. As for a data USB cable, the star-quad won't work well as an impedance matched twisted pair. Just get a tested BJC cable and be done with it. Link to comment
Popular Post Superdad Posted July 3, 2017 Popular Post Share Posted July 3, 2017 6 hours ago, gstew said: Been using 4-cross (starquad) cables for many, many years just for the benefits John outlined. I first read of the benefits in an early International Audio Review, where J. Peter Moncrieff recommended a specific 4-cross Romex wire as his then near-reference speaker cable... of course this was in the days before even mid-bux interconnects and speaker wires were available. I found some and it wasn't bad for the day... it found good use as power supply umbilical and AC power cables later. Also attached is a picture of a DIY rebuild I did to a Magnavox CD player back in the early '90s showing 4-cross power supply umbilical cables using speaker cable from Vecteur. LOL Greg. Don't make me open my box full of handmade silver-plated, Teflon-insulated, fine-stand, strap-quad-and-greater interconnects and speaker cables--from the late 1970s and early eighties! And who can forget the early Litz-wire speaker cables? I am blanking out on the brand, was not Fulton Gold, that was the pre-cursor to Monster Cable. Okay, how about these beauties: Each is a star-quad, but look closely. The quad consists of bundles, each with 7 Teflon-insulated conductors, and each of those is something 34 strands of #38 silver-plated copper. That little 6-inch set took my ex-Hovland partner about 7 hours to make. We used them between the output of a high-gain, all discrete Bob Hovland FET phono stage (think John Curl Vendetta or Lyra Connoisseur level) that was bolted to the bottom of our turntables (so that the custom tonearm wires went uninterrupted from the cartridge to the PCB) and the input of a 24-postion stepped attenuator made with all series/parallel Caddock MK132 resistors--which had the same handmade wire bundles inside! Oh, here that is--circa 1982--and at least our third generation of attenuator at that point: Okay, I think I have dated myself enough for one day. DIY forever! Have a great 4th-of-July everyone! Cornan, pl_svn and MikeyFresh 3 UpTone Audio LLC Link to comment
Popular Post gstew Posted July 3, 2017 Popular Post Share Posted July 3, 2017 45 minutes ago, Superdad said: LOL Greg. Don't make me open my box full of handmade silver-plated, Teflon-insulated, fine-stand, strap-quad-and-greater interconnects and speaker cables--from the late 1970s and early eighties! And who can forget the early Litz-wire speaker cables? I am blanking out on the brand, was not Fulton Gold, that was the pre-cursor to Monster Cable. Okay, how about these beauties: Each is a star-quad, but look closely. The quad consists of bundles, each with 7 Teflon-insulated conductors, and each of those is something 34 strands of #38 silver-plated copper. That little 6-inch set took my ex-Hovland partner about 7 hours to make. We used them between the output of a high-gain, all discrete Bob Hovland FET phono stage (think John Curl Vendetta or Lyra Connoisseur level) that was bolted to the bottom of our turntables (so that the custom tonearm wires went uninterrupted from the cartridge to the PCB) and the input of a 24-postion stepped attenuator made with all series/parallel Caddock MK132 resistors--which had the same handmade wire bundles inside! Oh, here that is--circa 1982--and at least our third generation of attenuator at that point: Okay, I think I have dated myself enough for one day. DIY forever! Have a great 4th-of-July everyone! Alex, You were probably thinking of Polk speaker wire. Moncrieff's top recommendation for speaker cable in that review was a multiple-paralleled run of Polk, his 2nd best was a Polk/Columbia Romex pair, with 3rd best Columbia alone. Interesting stuff that Polk... based on the design, I thought it'd make pretty good power umbilicals... They were ok, but after awhile shorts developed where the enamel insulation wore through and made messes in my hard-build gear. Still have some short pieces of that stuff around in a junk box somewhere. Hovland was my kind of manufacturer! Those jumpers remind me of the multiple conductor twisted pair looms I made for my super-modified Hafler DH-200s back in '81-'82 based on the Audio Amateur Pooge articles... 1st set with Kynar insulation, 2nd set with Teflon, ultimately both sets were too bright in that application (that was true for me for any silver-plated copper wire) & I went to Mogami hookup wire. Real pain to build those looms up, just to discard them for the much simpler to implement Mogami! And that stepped attenuator reminds me of the one I built up about that same time for my preamp... possibly a better switch (Shallco), definitely poorer resistors (Corning). It stuck with me for several years before I discovered ladder and then shunt attenuators (with Daven switches & nude Vishay resistors). Ah, the memories! Take care my friend... thanks for the trip down memory lane! And great July 4th's for all in the states... and same to those in Canada for the Canada Day holiday. Some also to ya'll outside the states, though it isn't a holiday for you! Greg in Mississippi MikeyFresh and Cornan 2 Everything Matters! 2 systems... Well-Tempered Refs->ET-2.5->DIY or Lounge LCR MkII phono stages Standalone digital Sony HAP Z1-ES or SDTrans384/Soekris DAM DAC Networked digital Zotac PI320-W2 LMS Server -> EtherRegen -> USBBridge Sig -> Katana / Ian GB / Soerkis / Buffalo-IIIPro DACs Passive S&B TX102 TVC or ladder attenuators -> BHK-250 -> Eminent Tech LFT-VIII / IV / VI ALL gear modified / DIY'd; cables MIT; all supplies DIY’d or LPS-1.2s w/HUGE Ultracaps; Audio gear on DIY AC filters + PS Aud P15s; misc gear on separate AC w/filters Link to comment
asdf1000 Posted July 4, 2017 Share Posted July 4, 2017 Hi John / Alex @JohnSwenson @Superdad Is this the kind of Y-cable that will allow a pair of LPS-1's to output 12V at 1.1A - one set at 7V and one set at 5V? https://www.ghentaudio.com/part/dc11.html Forget about whether the starquad is done correctly here or not (because I don't know how he wires it and if it's done correctly) but this is the type of Y-cable that should work? Link to comment
R1200CL Posted July 4, 2017 Share Posted July 4, 2017 2 hours ago, Em2016 said: Hi John / Alex @JohnSwenson @Superdad Is this the kind of Y-cable that will allow a pair of LPS-1's to output 12V at 1.1A - one set at 7V and one set at 5V? https://www.ghentaudio.com/part/dc11.html Forget about whether the starquad is done correctly here or not (because I don't know how he wires it and if it's done correctly) but this is the type of Y-cable that should work? No it's not. But it for sure will look the same. As I have one myself. Just email Ghent and order the serial cable. He may even put it on his website if you like to order ? asdf1000 1 Link to comment
asdf1000 Posted July 4, 2017 Share Posted July 4, 2017 7 hours ago, R1200CL said: No it's not. But it for sure will look the same. As I have one myself. Oh interesting, good thing I asked. The 5V and 7V cables there are identical though, right? You had different DC plug sizes if I recall, but apart from that is there anything different between the 5V and 7V splits? So the same cable should be fine for 5V + 5V and 7V + 5V and 7V + 7V ? Assuming plug sizes are fine of course Link to comment
asdf1000 Posted July 6, 2017 Share Posted July 6, 2017 On 7/3/2017 at 10:59 PM, Speedskater said: if I were to add an external PEC :: Paralleled Earth Conductor wire, I would attach it chassis to chassis but taped to the analog cables. This is interesting, especially if somebody already had a pair of shielded analogue cables that they already liked and didn't want to modify them (cutting through the outer jacket and soldering etc). This sounds the same as the method turntables use/d, that John mentioned. Excuse the ignorant questions to follow, but when you say chassis to chassis, do you mean anywhere on the device's metal housing? So for a CD player connected to a DAC, literally anywhere on the housing/chassis? Or are there better locations than others? Another silly question, but what if the CD player and DAC are both made of plastic? Where's the best place/s to connect these external wires that will run alongside the analogue cables? Thanks in advance Link to comment
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