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DIY DC power cables


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Some links you guys may like:

http://www.dx.com/p/5-5-x-2-5mm-dc-female-to-5-5-x-2-1-dc-male-adapter-for-laptop-black-2-pcs-194869#.WPpVbVQ8yhA

 

http://www.dx.com/p/free-welding-5-5-x-2-1mm-female-male-power-supply-adapters-black-428277#.WPpVyFQ8yhA

 

http://www.dx.com/p/5-5-x-2-1mm-cctv-dc-power-female-jack-connector-10-pack-44060#.WPpV61Q8yhA

 

http://www.dx.com/p/lson-dc-5-5-x-2-1-monitoring-power-plug-10-pcs-279662#.WPpWD1Q8yhA

 

http://www.dx.com/p/12v-storage-battery-crocodile-clip-to-dc-5-5-x-2-1-male-adapter-cable-423416#.WPpWM1Q8yhA

 

And I suppose you manage to search that site yourself easily ?

 

Any tip tip on cheap cables ?

 

Or one of us purchase the Belden or any cable suggest and chop it up in desired length. 

We use a open shearable spreadsheet with address for easy printing labels and overview of the total length.

 

I'm in for 6". If anyone like to do, start a new group purchase thread. 

 

 

 

 

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Out of time for editing. 

 

The self cost price for the cable just above  $1 pr. ft. 

So the guy that do this can change between 1,5 or 3 pr. ft. Depending on length ordered. And we should still be quite happy. 

 

I dont mind do, but Norway is overpriced, so just order the cable will be a double cost here. 

 

Just as as an example 

http://www.newark.com/belden/8489-060100/unshielded-multiconductor-cable/dp/87K6285

 

http://www.newark.com/belden/8489-060u500/unshielded-multiconductor-cable/dp/87K7185 (free shipping)

 

My self cost in Norway would be $1,2 pr. ft. if I purchase 500 ft. 

(If I bought this one http://no.mouser.com/Search/Refine.aspx?Keyword=566-8489-500). 

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Time out again. 

 

Fright world wide is max $6,5, if weight below 350 gram. 

 

I'm sure an US citizen can do better. 

 

So if I assume average buyer is 3 feet. And I charge close to $3, that should be around $15 including everything. 

Probably to expensive ?

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2 minutes ago, MikeyFresh said:

Maybe someday there will be interest to arrange a group buy to spread that shipping cost, but as it stands now I can't pay 22 Euros for a small La Poste air mail packet, the French postal system must be hurting even far worse than the USPS if those rates are any indication.

 

I tried to register as a dealer on their site, but my valid VAT number was not acceped.

Maybe someone in the US, or in another EU country can test.

then a groupbuy should be easy.

 

It seems these are only sold in France ?

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I study the Canare catalog yesterday. I noticed there exist a G version as well.

4S6G. Oxygen free copper. Probably only a waste of money if you could get one. 

According to John the shielded version should not make a difference. Maybe someone like to try and test ? ?

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1 hour ago, Cornan said:

I will keep it in mind next time I am planning a soldering project. I have´nt got any laying around, but they should be extremely easy to find

 

Isn't this you local shop ?

http://www.clasohlson.com/se/Bordsskruvstycke-med-kulled-Stanley/40-7835

 

And then add this one as well. Magnify 2,25

http://www.clasohlson.com/se/Förstoringslampa-LED/36-1116

 

And......

https://www.elfadistrelec.no/no/verktoy-maleteknikk/lodding/loddematerialer/loddetrad/c/cat-29216?filter_Category3=Loddematerialer&filter_Category4=Loddetråd&filter_Buyable=1&pageSize=100&q=*

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Small update from the Chinese manufacturer. 

 

Not surprisingly he has a challenge as well with plugs. 

I've asked him to use the cheap once in worst case. 

Or have his own tailor made. 

 

Or just get this one:

http://www.elecaudio.com/en/hi-fi-connectors/285-elecaudio-dc-21g-jack-dc-connector-5521mm-gold-plated.html

 

Unless @Superdad allow him to purchase the Oyaide old version 2,1 mm ?

Which make me wonder, isn't you using the 2,5 mm ?

 

I suppose I should have an updated status over the weekend some time. 

 

I've asked for Y-split as well.

(And 2,5 mm on very low priority). 

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On 26.4.2017 at 3:02 AM, MikeyFresh said:

 

Indeed they are, just did a Canare 4S6 test fit tonight and it looks like this project is a "go" for this weekend:

P4250959.jpg

The 4S6 is very flexible and has a soft supple outer jacket, this will make a nice DC cable that isn't so stiff that it fights how you want to dress it or puts strain on the input jack.

 

Anyone:

 

What is the distance in mm between solder point and cable crimp on Oyaide old version ?

The Frensh plugs is 12mm. Cable crimp diameter is natively 7.6mm.

 

Superdads pic old and new Oyaide plugs in below post..

Aand picture with soldering here:

 

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The Chinese manufacturer will make a test sample with the new Oyaide plugs with the Canare 4S6 cable, as he think this is doable.  I'm not so sure he is right, so this is very nice of him to do.

Probably ready during weekend. Will post pictures then.

 

I'm trying to convince him to sell directly to end user. But I think I will have to make a poll or a spreadsheet in order to convince him there is enough buyers. (Of cause he does not like to waste money on the expensive Oyaide plugs).

 

I must say I like these plugs as well. They should even be able to do a shielded cable from Canare. And then the right way is to have open shield in one end. Actually the end where your consumer (Microrendu or ISO regen) sits.

 

I'm thinking about having him making Ethernet cables as well. Possible with the best plugs available and a Belden cable :)

Open shield in one end as well. That's why you put direction on cables.

 

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33 minutes ago, Forehaven said:

But still, this connector's length is still really small...?3/4" long.  Very hard to solder still the Canare cable I bet.

 

Nope. Don't think so. See my other post, where you see lenght between solderpoint center tip and cable chrimp. 

 

Still no one has yet told me distance for old Oyaide....

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1 hour ago, Michael-Elijah Audio said:

Standard vs. modified Elac plugs - opening now 8.5mm - big enough for almost any cable...:)

 

May I ask what size of cable you intend to use ? (Or brand & model)

Cable chrimp diameter is 7,6 mm, so I would expect a challenge with a cable above that size or ?

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2 hours ago, JohnSwenson said:

The open open shield at one end is NOT the right way to do it. The last time I tried to bring this up I was thrashed by a large number of very angry people (I had no idea shield connection was such an emotional topic for so many people) so I am loath to bring it up again. Part of the problem is that I have no test equipment  right now so I can't PROVE it.

 

At least for the DC cables an unshielded starquad  is better than one with improper shield.

 

I have to make up my mind whether I want to talk about proper shielding at this time or not.

 

John S.

 

Thanks John for your expert feedback. I would very much like if you could talk about proper shielding. I wold love to hear your advice. I was hoping for your comment on my post. 

 

And I agree it's not as simple as I said, cause shielding has to be part of the whole loop, so you need to use shielded cables the whole way, which means that you most likely would have to use a shielded open end USB cable as well, and probably not on the DC power cable. Unless the USB is only signal ?

 

And this can probably can only be verified by measuring, as you are saying but:

 

My reason for bringing this up is that as a designer of low voltage control systems in the Oil & Gas industry, the rule for as long as I've been in the business is a signal loop from the I/O (input/output) control system card, we use shielded cables. They all in the end has the same ground (on an offshore platform), but the screen / shield was always floating in the end. End is where the field instrumentation is. 

 

This is related to 4-20 mA systems with 24 VDC where signal is analog. Digital is on/of (well it is a bit more actually), but still 24 VDC. 

 

I was thinking this way of designing control systems loops, could be transferred to our way of powering things in the audio world. But I could be wrong. I should also mention that the minus of these signal cables is NOT the same as ground.

But some control systems offers a common minus. I think those engineers some times will have callanges ? 

 

So the conclusion is that you have to look at your whole system, and how everything is connected up. This may not be so easy, as we, (or at lest me), hasn't got a clue how my earth and signals (and power) is done between the various devices in my setup. 

 

And I think John has chosen not to use eart, except for his amplifier. 

 

Also to to fully understand all these things, we need some sketches. And they can only cover the design principles. 

 

John your advices is mostly welcome. 

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I'm talking to the French Elec. Got an offer. Not to bad. 

Have asked them to ship a couple plugs to the Chinese guy. Offered to pay. No feedback yet. 

 

I personally think the Elec is as good as Qyaide. 

 

 But since I believe people like to have Oyaide, I suppose that what has to be first priority. 

 

What I don't know yet, is if used on ISO regen, such huge plugs as Elec, may become in conflict with the uspcb. 

Maybe perfect for use with an Y-split. (In the LPS-1 connection). 

 

 

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4 hours ago, Michael-Elijah Audio said:

Don't think that will be a problem - modified Elec and screw type plug

 

I think you misunderstood. 

 

If you use the new UpTone USPCB between MicroRendu and ISO regen, then you may have a challange. 

 

@Superdad have not put any measurements on his website yet, and in any case I suppose we have to wait until it ships in order to verify.  

 

I may inventing issus here, as I suppose the uspcb is primary meant to be downstream between the ISO regen and a DAC. Not on the upstream/ input side.

 

Although my plan is to have one uspcb both upstream and downstream together with my MicroRendu. 

 

The 90 degree version of the uspcb may solve this potential issue. 

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For a 20 cm DC plug it may be an overkill to add the JS Shield guidelines. (JSSG). Also a challenge to implement. Though a metal housing may operate as a Faraday cage. Could this assumption be correct ?

 

However I'm thinking of adding JSSG to USB and Ethernet cabling would be very interesting. And again using proper connectors. 

 

After finishing with the DC cable with our Chinese friend, I was thinking of having him implementing JSSG into such cables.

 

Using same Belden as Blue Jeans, but a heavy duty connector, like the Vodka has. 

 

For USB, I'm wondering if making it with two separate cables, one for Vbus and one for signal, both shielded of cause. But I need some updated JSSG on  that one ?

On the other hand we rather spend our money on the USPCB...!

 

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