which quality USB cable to consider?

audioblazer · April 1, 2017

Try synergistic research USB active selling in audiogon for USD275& then get Michael spallone in audiogon to mod the adapter for abt usd50

poalex · April 7, 2017

I will recommend from inexpensive AQVOX USB. Good value for money.

DelsFan · May 18, 2017

I haven't tried it yet, but someone I trust recommended the AudioQuest Carbon (USB cable) - $170 approx. for 1.5 metres; surely less expensive for a shorter version.

One thing I can assure you of, based on my experience with

power cords and

cables and

interconnects,

replacing the stock $0.50 to $3.00 stock offerings with a reputable offering in the $50 to $200 range has ALWAYS made a significant improvement in sound in all my systems, including the $150 computer speaker system I own.

Also, purchasing a "minimal" power conditioner is a worthwhile (necessary) expenditure (only one example is the PS Audio Duet - I only mention it because I bought one used here in town and it made an instant difference with my inexpensive TV system).

I will upgrade soon, but even the $50 Iron Lung Jellyfish power cords work great, not $300 or $500/each like some that are "better", but as a first step for not a lot of money,

upgrading from the cheapest cable a manufacturer can source to the least of the good to great cables is a "requirement".

Yes, it's more money spent, but for another 10% of your total investment your system will sound like every component has been replaced with one slightly better. And we know what that costs!

I expect to have between $1,000 and $1,200 invested in (power) cords and (headphone) cables and (analog, USB, and Ethernet) interconnects for my $5000 or so headphone system (under construction) - this amount depending upon whether or not I incorporate a streamer and if I use a DAC/headphone amp combo (which saves a power cord and interconnect). However, I'm looking at the low end of "real" hi-fi cables as opposed to my recommendation to you:

At least upgrade every cheap cable in your system to something that could be classified as being in the absolute bottom range of hi-fi..

daverich4 · May 18, 2017

6 minutes ago, Ralf11 said:

I also tested the Curious Blue cables and preferred them over the Curious Yellow.

Nice one. A little obscure but still..........

Solstice380 · May 18, 2017

There are a zillion USB cables out there. Some engineered, some not. I stumbled onto a small manufacturer where the principals are all bona fide electrical engineers, most of whom are working in defense electronics; Your Final System (YFS). Their Ref Music Server and USB cable were used by the Von Schweikert guys in their mega bucks system at AXPONA this year. I am using their Ref USB cabling between my NAA/Intona/REGEN and Lampi GA DAC since long before the show. They bettered both Mapleshade and Curious cables. Comparably priced.

You can get any config you want... spilt cable, no 5V, etc. Very reasonable prices for quality hand made cables. You talk directly to the head guy and the delivery is quick.

Ralf11 · May 18, 2017

41 minutes ago, daverich4 said:

Nice one. A little obscure but still..........

Thx! I'll be here all week...

wwaldmanfan · May 18, 2017

2 hours ago, DelsFan said:

I haven't tried it yet, but someone I trust recommended the AudioQuest Carbon (USB cable) - $170 approx. for 1.5 metres; surely less expensive for a shorter version.

One thing I can assure you of, based on my experience with

power cords and

cables and

interconnects,

replacing the stock $0.50 to $3.00 stock offerings with a reputable offering in the $50 to $200 range has ALWAYS made a significant improvement in sound in all my systems, including the $150 computer speaker system I own.

Also, purchasing a "minimal" power conditioner is a worthwhile (necessary) expenditure (only one example is the PS Audio Duet - I only mention it because I bought one used here in town and it made an instant difference with my inexpensive TV system).

I will upgrade soon, but even the $50 Iron Lung Jellyfish power cords work great, not $300 or $500/each like some that are "better", but as a first step for not a lot of money,

upgrading from the cheapest cable a manufacturer can source to the least of the good to great cables is a "requirement".

Yes, it's more money spent, but for another 10% of your total investment your system will sound like every component has been replaced with one slightly better. And we know what that costs!

I expect to have between $1,000 and $1,200 invested in (power) cords and (headphone) cables and (analog, USB, and Ethernet) interconnects for my $5000 or so headphone system (under construction) - this amount depending upon whether or not I incorporate a streamer and if I use a DAC/headphone amp combo (which saves a power cord and interconnect). However, I'm looking at the low end of "real" hi-fi cables as opposed to my recommendation to you:

At least upgrade every cheap cable in your system to something that could be classified as being in the absolute bottom range of hi-fi..

Hello, welcome to the CA forum. Very interested in your comments.

What $50 to $200 cables do you use with your $150 computer speakers, and how would you describe the improvement in SQ?

How do I determine if a $50 to $200 cable is reputable?

What makes a $300 to $500 power cord better than a $50 power cord?

Please define what you describe as a "'real" hi-fi cable, and "the absolute bottom range of hi-fi". Is it a specific price point?

Thanks.

mourip · May 18, 2017

8 minutes ago, wwaldmanfan said:

Hello, welcome to the CA forum. Very interested in your comments.

What $50 to $200 cables do you use with your $150 computer speakers, and how would you describe the improvement in SQ?

How do I determine if a $50 to $200 cable is reputable?

What makes a $300 to $500 power cord better than a $50 power cord?

Please define what you describe as a "'real" hi-fi cable, and "the absolute bottom range of hi-fi". Is it a specific price point?

Thanks.

Agreed this is definitely a moving target. Perhaps buy a well received cable at the beginning of the price range that you can afford from a place that allows you to return it. In the end if you think it makes a positive difference it's your money to spend.

mansr · May 18, 2017

I don't recall ever buying a USB cable. Nevertheless, I have a crate full of them.

mourip · May 19, 2017

3 hours ago, mansr said:

I don't recall ever buying a USB cable. Nevertheless, I have a crate full of them.

Same here. They seem to spontaneously accumulate. Also I switched over to a Dante ethernet to AES converter so I no longer use them for audio. To be honest I could never tell much difference between them for audio but adding a REGEN USB filter did make a big difference.

AnotherSpin · May 19, 2017

The choice of USB cable very much depends on components in system. For example, in my system USB cable Nordost Blue Heaven gives better sound than USB Supra between mac mini and DAC, but combination or Supra + Regen sounds better than Blue Heaven + Regen. I would try to select several cables and take them to test and compare.

DelsFan · May 20, 2017

On 5/18/2017 at 4:56 PM, wwaldmanfan said:

Hello, welcome to the CA forum. Very interested in your comments.

What $50 to $200 cables do you use with your $150 computer speakers, and how would you describe the improvement in SQ?

How do I determine if a $50 to $200 cable is reputable?

What makes a $300 to $500 power cord better than a $50 power cord?

Please define what you describe as a "'real" hi-fi cable, and "the absolute bottom range of hi-fi". Is it a specific price point?

Thanks.

Well, it looks like the FPS 215 speakers (search Amazon for FPS 200 for the acrylic version) I recently retrieved from my other residence are connected using cheap speaker wire. The potentially better M-Audio Studiophile speakers I was using previously are now in the kitchen on top of the cabinets - they are a little more robust than the little electrostatics currently on my computer desk so they get the opportunity to fill the bigger room. Not using great speaker wire with them either - would rectify that if my wife used them more than once per month...

I just recently also retrieved a box of speaker wire and misc. interconnects (and power cables) so I'll have to fish out some speaker wire and do a little testing. I haven't been too serious about my computer audio, as you can tell. However, I also retrieved my little Behringer UCA 202 USB to analog RCA DAC (if you can call it a DAC, but for $30 you plug it into your computer's USB port and on the other side plug your mini-jack from your computer speakers into it - and out comes sound, so that's what a DAC does...!). Even with the really cheap cord the little Behringer unit taking sound from my desktop's USB port instead of speaker jack, makes a (small but) quantitative difference over what is coming out of the speaker jack on the back of my desk.

Before, with the M-Audio Speakers, I was using a pair of old ($200/pair from 20 years ago that I bought used for half that) interconnects to go from the Behringer unit to the back of the first speaker, and then maybe a length of I don't know what to carry the signal to the other speaker. So far I'm not a fount of information; but I'll get back to you on computer speakers and wire after I experiment a little. I know I have some $5/ft Naim speaker wire (glorified lamp cord) from 30 years ago in the box, and who knows what else. Some Kimber 8TC also, surely that would be overkill (but when did overkill hurt in this hobby?). In the past though, with my 2-channel system speaker wire made a difference. With my ZVOX sound base (I think second model from the top) better interconnects made an instant improvement. Also, for any budding guitarists with small (or large) Fender amps, remove the stock wire from the amp to the speaker (one to four feet of speaker wire needed, depending on the number of speakers in your amp) and replace it with the Kimber 4VC or 4TC. A buddy of mine does this with all his new (usually used) amps and, yes, one can hear a difference.

Not on topic, but I'd suggest if you are at all serious about your computer speaker system you need some sort of DAC plugged into a USB jack - using the mini-jack on the back of your computer is an excercise in futility.

The cheap Behringer one I mention is a step better than nothing.

I expect the Fiio stuff is a significant improvement, as would be the Audioquest dragonfly red, or black.

Schiit makes a $99 DAC (the Modi!) with one or two paths for upgrading.

These are just the ones that come to mind off the top of my head.

I would say a short run of the Kimber 4VC speaker wire would offer an improvement over lamp cord - I think this is their least expensive offering. Another option is to find one of your friends whose Dad used to be into two-channel audio (an old fart like me) and I'll guarantee he'll have a box like I do with a few short runs of fair to good speaker wire that he'd probably just give you - as he's moved on to either... nothing, that's why it's in a box... or $20-$30/ft stuff.

For some information that might actually be useful:

How would I start looking for reputable manufacturers and products? I know people distrust (everyone) the audiophile magazines nowadays, but in a vacuum I've always relied on the 2017 (in this case) Editor's Choice editions of The Absolute Sound or Stereophile or (when it was still around) The Perfect Vision. Not to take everything they said as gospel, but it is a good place to start. I think their picks are available for free on their on-line web site also. The cheap offerings from any company mentioned should offer an improvement over whatever you are using now...

Aside: I suggest a subscription to The Absolute Sound (or Stereophile) for a year is worth the $8 or $12 subscription price - and if you don't like it so much (they do review systems that cost more than my first house) then don't renew. Coming from nothing though, one year's worth of reading for the price of a meal at Chili's is not a bad investment.

Below are just a few of the manufacturers they mentioned in this year's "awards" edition, any of whose low-end offerings I will suggest are not junk. As to which company's $80 power cord is the best I can't tell you, but I'll assure you whichever one the magazine (or anyone else) recommends will provide an improvement over your existing stock $1.30 (wholesale) power cord. Or interconnect.

People here (and at Head-Fi.org where I hang out some, as I'm assembling a headphone system now) will also recommend one of the small Indy guys they buy from - and I'll suggest any of their favorite small guys will make you something for not too much money that will be a leap beyond what you have now.

Here are some power cords (and other things) I've seen recommended; if I spent more time I could probably triple this listing. And, for the more expensive stuff listed (that you wouldn't buy), look to see if that manufacturer makes a less expensive model. All I'm saying is that these companies all make a product that will instantly improve your system, if you have any kind of half-decent system.

Power Cords:

Wireworld Stratus 7 - $120 for 2 metres

Shunyata Venom HC (or 3, I forget which) $150

Transparent Audio Power Link $250

Wireworld Electra 7, $360 for a 2 metre length

Kimber Kable PK-10AG $390 (for 6')

Are they all too expensive - of course they are! Buy used from someone buying even more expensive stuff. That way you get a product that is already burned in also.

Interconnects:

Thansparent Audio - The Link $100/metre

Audience Ohno - $199/metre

Wireworld Equinox 7 $200/meter

Kimber Kable Hero - $219/meter

Shunyata Research Venom $295/meter

Moon Audio Silver Dragon V2 $625/meter (supposed to be (really) good for headphone cables too, I think)

Siltech Explorer 90 - $550/meter

The USB Cable I saw recommended that wasn't a fortune was the AudioQuest Carbon, at $169 for 1.5 metres.

Speaker Wire

off the top of my head, I know I like the Kimber line, the 8VS and (next step up) 8TC come to mind,

but, A LOT of these same companies listed above make good and inexpensive ($10-$15/foot) speaker wire that is worthwhile if you are using lamp cord (or Monster Cable, which is still better than nothing) now.

If you want to buy four or five power cables, or interconnects, and compare them and give us a report, more power to you. Or you might find someone here or elsewhere who has posted their findings. For products that don't cost much money, taking their advice should be fine. Conversely, I'll reiterate that any half-reputable company will sell you a length of... something... that will be a instant improvement over what you have now. If you like the color of a reputable manufacturer's cord, I'll suggest sight unseen their $50 product will make you happy. Or, in my case, I recently saw the owner or engineer or someone from AudioQuest posting here (or at Head-Fi) and he seemed like a nice guy - barring any other information I'd say buying his $75 product because he seems like a good person is a valid reason to buy from them - and I'm sure all their "low-end" products will give you instant gratification in your system. (Now, for $300 or $500 "wires" I'm going to do a lot more research than just, "He seems like a nice guy." But what I'm saying to you is you have to take the first step past "nearly junk" - and nearly anything you buy from a reputable company for not too much $$ will not be a mistake.)

OK, I rambled and it's past my bedtime. Let me see if I can conclude clearly and concisely.

What $50 to $200 cables do you use with your $150 computer speakers, and how would you describe the improvement in SQ? I will get out my Kimber 8VS or 8TC speaker wire (I can't remember what I have) and report back. BUT, I can tell you the imaging will be a little better, the space between the instruments a little more defined (or the location of the instrument is more specific, and then there will be "space" between that instrument and another one), and the timbre of the instruments will be improved (a guitar will sound a little more like a guitar). Also, usually the bass should tighten up a little. It might not sound mushy now, but if you go from your new cables back to the old ones you'll almost certainly hear mushy bass. With higher end equipment, you will be able to "see" in your mind each guitar string vibrating instead of there just being a jumble of sound. If you close your eyes, you will feel a bit more like you are "there", like you could believe the music is real. And if you spend hundreds more (or thousands) upgrading your equipment, you will "really" feel more like you are "there!"

How do I determine if a $50 to $200 cable is [from a] reputable [company]?

Like the "audiophile" magazines or not, if you see them advertise their $500 power cords or interconnects or speaker wire in these rags, I'm saying their lowest cost products aren't junk. Say what you want; I've recently heard a $995 for a half meter interconnect in my system (a friend brought it over). I was originally just being polite when I said I'd listen to it after we'd tried some more "sensibly" priced interconnects - but I was shocked at how the bass tightened up, all the instruments sounded more like real instruments, and there was nothing extraneous in the sound field (do people describe that sound as black, or that the noise floor has been reduced?). It was a revealing experience for me, and it only took 10 seconds of listening for me to realize why some people pay ridiculous sums of money for "wire". It was probably one of the one or two most elucidating moments in my hi-fi career (and I started with my first Linn Sondek LP12 turntable in 1978).

What makes a $300 to $500 power cord better than a $50 power cord?

I can't tell you. I'd suggest thicker gauge wire, for sure, so if it weighs 3 times more the raw materials at wholesale price are three times more. There are all sorts of metallurgical explanations having to do with the quality of the copper, how much air (bubbles) is in the copper (or silver), a better alignment of the molecules (OK, it sounds like crap, but when you "sharpen" your knife using the steel (the cylindrical steel file-like tube with the wooden handle at the end) you are actually just re-aligning the molecules at the edge of the knife and that makes it very slightly sharper - technically, to sharpen a knife you remove a minuscule part of the metal with a stone or ceramic or whatever...). I think, but I'm not for sure, that people spend more money (on thicker/heavier cords) for use with power amps than DACs or streamers, because the amps use more current so they benefit more from heavier and more expensive cords. I just bought a Sirius Evo3 power conditioner (six outlets) and I'll assure you, since it will be supplying power to everything, it will get the $500 cord (which I'm sure I'll try and find used, for $300). My headphone amp will get the next best/heaviest cord, and my DAC and streamer will most likely get quality but lighter weight cords. A lot of "parts" and wire are cryogenically treated and that is supposed to help - I don't know why.

What I do know, don't let people say cables (even digital ones) don't make a difference, if you replace your nothing cable with a low-priced "good" one you will instantly hear an improvement if you don't have junk equipment. Try it before you claim everyone else is under the influence of a placebo effect...

Please define what you describe as a "'real" hi-fi cable,

I guess I'd say they start being real when you can insert it into your system and within 10 seconds be able to describe the improvements I listed above, when I described what I hear with new speaker wire (or interconnects or whatever). It's not something you measure (maybe you can, I don't know). But you or anyone else (90% of the time, isn't that good enough?) will instantly be able to tell the difference - usually whatever you purchased will be made by one of the reputable companies listed above (not an exhaustive list) and you won't want to remove it from your system after listening to it for a few minutes.

and "the absolute bottom range of hi-fi". Is it a specific price point [for new products]?

I would say you can buy (new) a power cord for $50 - $75 that is seriously better than what you have now. If you can find a used Iron Lung Jellyfish, $20 or $25 maybe. They aren't the same, but for low-current equipment like a DAC or Blu-Ray player or sound bar, it would still offer a benefit.

It might be less, but I'd estimate $10/ft for speaker wire might be the lower price point for "better" wire - wire that, again, when you try it you can instantly hear "more" than you were hearing with your lamp cord.

I've long bought used interconnects for $100/pair, or so, that were $150 to $200/pair when new that offered a significant improvement. There's always some guy (me) moving to the $300 and $500/pair interconnects, and willing to sell his old ones for 50% to 60% of the new price from a few years back.

To me, age doesn't matter too much with these products. I'd rather have a five year-old cord than a ten year-old cord, but when you are replacing your $2.00 cord or interconnect with a used $75 one that was $100 or $200 five years ago - I'll assure you you'll hear a huge improvement - you will have spent a minimum amount of money for a significant improvement.

To summarize, you can spend (a total of) $300 (used) to $800 (new) for cords and interconnects and USB cable and even a run of Ethernet cable. Not an insignificant sum, but if you are replacing the cheapest "wires" from scratch you'd have to nearly double the cost of much of the rest of (all) your equipment to get the same improvement. Trading any single $800 piece of equipment for a $1600 model that is better, and keeping your other equipment, won't begin to offer the same benefit. So, if you have a $3,000 system then $500 or so for cables and cords all around actually offers a really good value.

Could this be proofed and made more concise? I'm sure it could, but I'm going to bed instead. I hope I've been of some help.

Cheers.

plissken · May 20, 2017

With more and more devices having native Ethernet, the ability to support both streaming and local file servers, USB could be on the way out as an audio interconnect in the next 10 years and you won't have to worry about differences in cabling.

plissken · May 20, 2017

9 hours ago, DelsFan said:

To summarize, you can spend (a total of) $300 (used) to $800 (new) for cords and interconnects and USB cable and even a run of Ethernet cable.

For $800 you could get the Oppo Sonica and feed it with with either wired Ethernet or break the physical connection and go WiFi.

Why bother spending any amount of money on pricey USB cables?

miguelito · May 20, 2017

I found the basic Audioquest (purple?) to be pretty nice. I also have tried Lightspeed USB split - got tired of it and is sitting in a drawer, and Curious Cable - I currently use the 20cm length from a microRendu to the DAC.

KnockKnock · May 20, 2017

I tried Crystal Cable Dreamline, AcousticRevive, AudioQuest Carbon, Coffee and Cinnamon, Aqvox, Cardas, Entreq, Furutech, Kimber AG and CU, NordOst, Viablue, Tellurium, Transparent and ProCab USB cables. The one that beats them all is Curious Cables. It just does some magic to the music, it´s quite affordable, made by hand and comes with a money back guarantee The sound with this gem is soft, smooth yet precise with deep lows and fabulous highs. And the vocals? They just are as good as they can be imagined - with closed eyes or not. Highly recommended !!!

DelsFan · May 20, 2017

On 5/18/2017 at 5:08 PM, mourip said:

Agreed this is definitely a moving target. Perhaps buy a well received cable at the beginning of the price range that you can afford from a place that allows you to return it. In the end if you think it makes a positive difference it's your money to spend.

Oh, wait, this is good advice and 98% shorter than my explanations. Maybe 99% shorter.

--------------------------------------------

But sadly, I would still like to revise and extend my remarks. Then I'll go and do the chores my wife thinks I'm doing now, while she's off doing charity work.

How do you identify quality manufacturers:

Go to thecableco.com and peruse. You don’t have to buy from them (I’ve talked to Peter once, and he was very helpful and I did purchase a couple of cables from him). They sell a jillion different cables, cords, and interconnects, all made by many reputable companies. I wish he had a price filter, because the number of products under $200 is dwarfed by the number of products over $1000, but just going through his well-laid-out web site will be educational.

I just found (on TheCableCo web site) that C7 power cords are available. The C7 end is used on a two conductor cord with the figure eight connector on the equipment end. Some of the less expensive DACs utilize this connector also. (So I’ll be buying one today for my ZVOX sound base. I’ll report back on the “unbelievable” improvement I expect to hear after (breaking it in for 100 hours or so) and listening to my TV system with this cord – no placebo effect possible here!)

About speaker wire, and most everything else:

Below, in italics, is the biggest load of crap ever. OR, it is a good description of what I actually believe, and what I have experienced with cords, interconnects, and cables in general. The Kimber 4PR is this company’s most cost effective offering, at $66 for two 5’ lengths with bare ends. Comes to $7/ft close enough. Millions of feet of this cable have been sold because thousands of people have tried it in their budget systems and heard an improvement – then their friends went out and purchased some of this cable also. Now that I think about it, if you live near any big city, your mid to high-end dealer might have speaker wire like this on a spool, just tell him how many feet you want and try it in your system.

Kimber's Description:
In 1979 this classic design put KIMBER KABLE on the map and after improvements over time, is still considered the reference for affordable loudspeaker cables. Millions of feet of this remarkable cable have been sold. The construction consists of four brown and four black conductors that utilize our proven braiding technique. The aggregate wire size is two 14 awg conductors. Even the most basic systems, old and new, will benefit significantly from this legendary performer. When demonstrating KIMBER KABLE to a new dealer, this cable is used with the most modest system available. With 4PR, the [modest] system performs as if costing twice as much. [Empasis mine.] Bass and treble frequencies are allowed their full extension, while dynamics emerge unrestrained. The 4PR is also an excellent cable for professional and studio use due to its inherent ability to reject noise in any cable length.

In conclusion:

Not you, but many many naysayers on many forums have never actually heard a hi- (or even mid-) fi system. If this is you, call your local high end dealer and tell him you are just getting into quality music reproduction, and wonder if you could come by and hear what really well-reproduced music sounds like. Take a Diana Krall or Madeline Peyroux or similar CD with you with which you are (have become) somewhat familiar . I've not listened to Sade or Adele or even Lady Gaga (who is shockingly talented, I don't know how "tame" her recordings are though), but they might be good substitutes for the females with which I am familiar. Non-complex music with a couple of stringed instruments, drums, and female vocals is one really good medium to use as you begin your education. Or, if you must, purchase and take the Robert Plant/Alison Krauss CD "Raising Sand" - a supreme example of top musicians calling attention to the music instead of themselves. If possible, try and go when the store first opens, early in the week, when they are not busy. Wear slacks or khakis and a shirt with a collar (I’m not speaking to you specifically, but to 18-25 year-olds who aren’t necessarily ready to invest $5K to $50K in a system, but are genuinely interested in what is possible to achieve in music reproduction). Be polite and appreciative of their time, (at the Best Buy Magnolia store this is just because it is good to be polite – at the really high-end store in the big city where they have $1MM worth of equipment and $10,000 minimum invested in a dedicated listening room, because you are mindful it is a privilege to experience what they have to offer, especially if you aren’t going to buy from them. Yet!) Don't dress or act in a way that will put off their paying clientele regardless of how snobby their customers are. (As I said above) if you are into rock, or rap, or hip-hop, learn to like the music of at least one artist that they (and their customers) are used to hearing in their store. These salesmen/owners are trying to sell equipment so they can stay in business and feed their children and put them through college just like everyone else - so respect that at least while they are investing their time in your education. And thank them profusely on your way out.

You may conclude people who spend $10K or $100K on a system are just plain bonkers, but you will still now have an idea of what soundstaging, imaging, and timbre are. And what to listen for as you "improve" your stereo system.

DelsFan · May 20, 2017

1 hour ago, plissken said:

For $800 you could get the Oppo Sonica and feed it with with either wired Ethernet or break the physical connection and go WiFi.

Why bother spending any amount of money on pricey USB cables?

Wait, you are correct, I mis-read your post. Streamer, great. No interconnect needed, great. WiFi, in some cases wireless cannot match wired bandwidth and therefore sound quality, but I'll not wade there.

------------------------------------------------------------

So it turns out this is an answer to a question plissken didn't ask. Probably I need a nap.

From my previous post, this:

"When demonstrating KIMBER KABLE to a new dealer, this cable is used with the most modest system available. With [the 4PR speaker wire], the [modest] system performs as if costing twice as much. [Empasis mine.] Bass and treble frequencies are allowed their full extension, while dynamics emerge unrestrained. "

No amount of upgrading of other equipment will allow you to realize your system's potential if you have modest equipment and the cheapest cables and cords known to man, the "wires" are your weak link. I'm saying (just for example) spending $75 x 3 on cords, $150 on a USB cable, $100 on a used interconnect, and $125 on new speaker wire ($600 total) would yield multiple times the improvement of adding or upgrading one piece of equipment you already own.

[Unless you replace your computer with a streamer - in that case you are taking away a piece of equipment designed with the cheapest parts possible to multi-task, with a piece of equipment designed to do only one thing (and with premium parts) - so I'd say your computer weak link is as bad or worse than your cord/cable weak link. But that is another can of worms... And I'm pretty sure it is being debated elsewhere, right on this forum! AND, I'd suggest it is way easier to upgrade your cables as opposed to getting into the streamer quagmire - they will only get better and less expensive as time goes on.

plissken · May 20, 2017

47 minutes ago, DelsFan said:

Wait, you are correct, I mis-read your post. Streamer, great. No interconnect needed, great. WiFi, in some cases wireless cannot match wired bandwidth and therefore sound quality, but I'll not wade there.

Bandwidth doesn't equal SQ. It ensures playback with no drop out. They simply aren't related.

The upside is getting quality WiFi is a cost minimal task with 1200AC MIMO (multiband) routers routinely ~$50 and USB adapters with 2dBi antenna for ~$20 that will get you ~30MB/second. That's what I did with my setup and a Linksys router configured for WAP duties that I obtained for $19 after rebate. I'm averaging around 38MB / Second and average ping rate is 4ms. I fired off a 5000 ping test (ping 192.168.0.1 -4 -n 5000) and my average was 4, my high was 53ms, my loss was 0%).

PCM, DSD, just doesn't matter. They aren't bandwidth intensive loads from a link perspective.

DelsFan · May 20, 2017

Well, and I'm not at all versed in Wi-Fi - I'm probably confusing (or incorrectly comparing) wireless speaker systems with those which are wired - the wireless speakers still don't sound as good. Bluetooth is not the same as WiFi though, at least I do know that much...

I am curious as to whether the high-end streamer like the Oppo you mention (which I don't own yet) directly connected with an Ethernet cord will sound better than when it is relying on Wi-Fi to receive its high-quality music stream from (in my case) Tidal. Especially since I have a (presumably crappy) wireless router from AT&T.

Maybe my bigger problem is I need to switch from U-Verse to X-Finity especially since my wife works from home sometimes. Is cable internet really that much better/faster/more consistent than U-Verse?

1markr · May 20, 2017

1 hour ago, KnockKnock said:

I tried Crystal Cable Dreamline, AcousticRevive, AudioQuest Carbon, Coffee and Cinnamon, Aqvox, Cardas, Entreq, Furutech, Kimber AG and CU, NordOst, Viablue, Tellurium, Transparent and ProCab USB cables. The one that beats them all is Curious Cables. It just does some magic to the music, it´s quite affordable, made by hand and comes with a money back guarantee The sound with this gem is soft, smooth yet precise with deep lows and fabulous highs. And the vocals? They just are as good as they can be imagined - with closed eyes or not. Highly recommended !!!

I will chime in here with my opinion.... while I have not heard most of the USB cables mentioned above, I did own the Curious Cables for a while and they were actually quite decent. However, the Curious were easily bettered by both, an Audience AU24SE USB cable, and by the Verastarr Nemesis USB cable. There is just something much more natural and engaging sounding with these two, than any others I've heard including the Curious, and these were also significantly better in my system than a $1k Synergistic Research Active SE USB cable. But.... the Audience and Verastarr are at least double the retail of the Curious, thereby, the Curious is certainly a better value.

I'd love to hear if anyone else uses the Audience or Verastarr cable!

plissken · May 20, 2017

31 minutes ago, DelsFan said:

Well, and I'm not at all versed in Wi-Fi - I'm probably confusing (or incorrectly comparing) wireless speaker systems with those which are wired - the wireless speakers still don't sound as good. Bluetooth is not the same as WiFi though, at least I do know that much...

You have the crux of it correct.

31 minutes ago, DelsFan said:

I am curious as to whether the high-end streamer like the Oppo you mention (which I don't own yet) directly connected with an Ethernet cord will sound better than when it is relying on Wi-Fi to receive its high-quality music stream from (in my case) Tidal. Especially since I have a (presumably crappy) wireless router from AT&T.

Properly implemented I doubt it.

31 minutes ago, DelsFan said:

Maybe my bigger problem is I need to switch from U-Verse to X-Finity especially since my wife works from home sometimes. Is cable internet really that much better/faster/more consistent than U-Verse?

Not sure what current U-Verse speeds are... Speed is speed.

semajm85 · May 21, 2017

would anyone be able to recommend a micro usb cable?

my DAC only takes micro USB cable.

or would I be better off with a micro-b to b adapter?

AnotherSpin · May 21, 2017

5 hours ago, semajm85 said:

would anyone be able to recommend a micro usb cable?

my DAC only takes micro USB cable.

or would I be better off with a micro-b to b adapter?

Being on your place I would consider also to look for companies which would make a custom cable or to check with some producers mentioned in this thread would they make it for you. I have some such cables with extra lengths and connectors variety required.

seeteeyou · May 21, 2017

7 hours ago, semajm85 said:

would anyone be able to recommend a micro usb cable?

my DAC only takes micro USB cable.

or would I be better off with a micro-b to b adapter?

Some micro USB cables might NOT be a good fit for the original Chord Hugo's recessed jacks

http://www.audioquest.com/micro-usb-digital-audio/cinnamon

http://www.audioquest.com/micro-usb-digital-audio/forest

http://www.audioquest.com/micro-usb-digital-audio/pearl

https://www.audiosanctuary.co.uk/vertere-acoustics-d-fi-usb-interconnect-cable.html

https://www.audiosanctuary.co.uk/vertere-acoustics-d-fi-double-d-usb-interconnect-cable.html

https://www.audiosanctuary.co.uk/vertere-acoustics-pulse-r-double-usb-interconnect-cable.html

https://www.audiosanctuary.co.uk/vertere-pulse-hb-double-usb-cable.html

https://qsr.net.au/shop/cables-connectors/curious-cables-usb-cable-hugo-link-280mm/

http://www.curiouscables.com/buy.html

http://www.nordost.com/leif/purple-flare/purple-flare-usb2.0-cable.php

http://www.oehlbach.com/en/detail/index/sArticle/41