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A novel way to massively improve the SQ of computer audio streaming

The Computer Audiophile

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Most important: please realize this thread is about bleeding edge experimentation and discovery. No one has The Answer™. If you are not into tweaking, just know that you can have a musically satisfying system without doing any of the nutty things we do here.

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Hi Elan120,

what LPS do you use to power the device ?

with this mod, what's the "size" of the SQ improvement ?

 

The few times I tried this very popular kind of mod (changing caps for "better" ones / adding caps here & there) : the improvement was not night/day.

I changed my mind about this kind of mod. Now I prefer not to pay for a cheap chinese LPS & add this kind of mod, but pay a little bit more for a better PS (LT3045 based) & just connect this PS to the device with any electric wire : no brainer, better SQ improvement.

(I confess that I'm really good at soldering... :-) )

Rgds

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I am just sneaking in here to give this old clock cable thread a bump.  The thread seemed like a good idea at the time, basically a thread to capture the combined experience for clock cables.  Unfortunately, the thread did not get much interest, so drifted out of use.  I still think the thread could be useful, and I am sure that there must more clock cable knowledge amongst the posters in this thread than anywhere else on the planet, and certainly more combined knowledge now compared to when the thread linked below was first created.  Plus, I am sure many of us have learned that clock cables can be critical to performance in some systems.

 

So, if you have had any good experience with clock cables, of any type or price, it would be appreciated if you could post here. 

 

We might breath some life into the old thread yet!  :)

 

 

 


Windows 10 PC, Roon, HQPlayer, SOtM sMS-200Ultra, tX-USBultra, Paul Hynes SR4 (x2), Mutec REF10, Mutec MC3+USB, Devialet 1000Pro, KEF Blade.  Plus Pro-Ject Signature 12 TT for playing my 'legacy' vinyl collection.

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5 hours ago, elan120 said:

Yes, if you counting the soldering pads from the left, the first two are +12VDC inputs, and the next two are Gnd pads.

 

 

 

The following are list of key parts I used:

The modification is somewhat straightforward if you are comfortable with basic soldering.  Hope to hear your listening impression if you are going to try this modification.

 

Oh, so kind from you...🙏

Thank you so much!!!

I will give it a try asap.

warmest regards,

Jorge


AMP: Electrocompaniet ECI-6D; DAC: Oppo 205 (modded); ECI-6D

Streamer/endpoint: Zen MKIII/ultraRendu; Speakers: Proac Tablette Reference 8 Signature; Cables: Speakers (Acoustic Revive) + RCA (au24sx) + RJ45 (Vodka Audioquest) + USB (Diamond Audioquest) + Power (Pangea's + Actinote's) + iR&oM (Neotech 16AWG OCC Silver + DC 4); Filters/reclockers: Jensen VRD- iFF + Pink Faun Isolator + Acoustic Revive RGC-24 + HMS “The Perfect Match” + isoRegen; Switch: etherRegen + opticalModule; Cisco 2960; LPS: Sboosters MKI & MKII (+ ultra) + HDplex 200 + LPS 1.2

 

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14 hours ago, austinpop said:

Regarding vibration control, I've been reading the various reports here with great interest. Clearly, when comparing again stock footers, people have had good experiences with the energy dissipation element being either:

  • dissipation platforms, like Ikea bamboo, Tranquility Bases, etc, with rigid couplers like wood blocks, SR MiG 2.0, etc, or
  • isolation footers, like Herbie feet, Stillpoints, and Gaia, and
  • in the case of speakers, there is the question of the role of spikes for mass coupling.

And this doesn't even cover the full spectrum of solutions.

 

Since every approach seems to have merits, it seems to me (OP) that for this thread, it would be particularly valuable to get listening reports from people who've done comparison between solutions. Comparisons with stock footers are still welcome, of course. 

 

Does that make sense to folks?

also, in the case of speakers, isolation footers and energy draining should be considered too. IMHO, I removed the feet from my Sonus Faber's, so base of the speaker is lying flat on Symposium platforms, and under the platform Symposium Rollerblocks. 

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Hi

 

Regarding the Schroeder method, I was having a chat with Sean Jacobs about this. His view was, if my DAC & AMP has spare connectors. Then he would modify the DAC and AMP so the spare connectors would join as one internally, so you can effectively run two pairs of cables, thus negating the need for adapters/connectors on the cables and like....

 

This is not something I can DIY myself, but will get Sean to do, thought was worth sharing.  

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I have some quick notes comparing two types of footers.  Several weeks ago, I was able to acquire at set of Gaia OEM footers from a friend who recommended them.  They are not normally available for retail purchase but are similar to the OREA series with better performance.  I put them under my modified Melco S100, which until then had only the stock feet.  The switch sits on a glass monitor riser.  I heard more 3D separation between instruments with a deeper and wider soundstage.   Overall, I heard a more realistic soundstage which belied the fact I was listening through headphones.

 

Because I was so impressed with the result, I recently acquired a second set to put under my Synergistic Research PowerCell.  The PowerCell has always had a set of MiG 2.0 footers under it.  The unit sits on an aluminum shelf that was recommended by John Swenson on another thread a few years ago.  In this use case, I found the Gaia made the music sound soft and diffuse.  The rigid MiG 2.0 was clearly superior.

 

I decided to try the Gaia under my SOtM switch since I experienced such good results with the Melco.  The SOtM switch sits on a glass monitor riser like the one used for the Melco.  Once again, the MiG 2.0 was the superior performer.  I immediately noticed the bass guitar and kick drum were not as present, and what I did hear was muddled in comparison.  More generally, the entire drum set and percussion sounds better with the MiG 2.0.  I simply hear more of it, and what I hear is better defined.

 

Now, I am curious to try a rigid footer under the Melco.  I don't have any extras on hand right now, so that that experiment will have to wait.


 

 

 

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17 hours ago, [email protected] said:

Exactly, all this heatsinks absolutely useless, melting point of aluminium about 660C

...I dunno, gets pretty hot here in summer. 😉

 

Actually, I had no concerns about the case melting. It seems to me if you're pulling heat out of the device, that would be a net-positive. I suppose the caveat to that would be if you were creating inconsistent temps/fluctuations that impacted components that preferred a steady-state operating temp. Then again, I was a humanities major, so...

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7 hours ago, tgb said:

what LPS do you use to power the device ?

with this mod, what's the "size" of the SQ improvement ?

I am using a JS-2 at the moment to do the burn-in.  Have not compare with different power supplies yet, but that will happen when the burn-in is done.

 

The improvements are in the dynamic, impact, clarity/detail, and the overall presentation, but the key improvement was the lack of harshness from the stock form with the smps.

 

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10 minutes ago, MarkusBarkus said:

...I dunno, gets pretty hot here in summer. 😉

 

Actually, I had no concerns about the case melting. It seems to me if you're pulling heat out of the device, that would be a net-positive. I suppose the caveat to that would be if you were creating inconsistent temps/fluctuations that impacted components that preferred a steady-state operating temp. Then again, I was a humanities major, so...

Of course the heat sink on the case is helping, if it was not drawing away heat, then the sink would remain at room temperature!  I realize that this approach is not the "best" way to cool the internal chips, as these chips are not in direct contact with the case.  But, one has to consider that the air inside the case is transferring heat from the chips, to the case, and hence to the heat sink on top of the case.  

Could the heat dissipation be better with direct contact tot he chips, of course it could, but this does not mean that the sink on the case is not lowering the internal temperature of the eR, it has to be, because the heat sink can be seen to rise above room ambient temperature.  Remember, the case has very little distance internally, from the PCB to its surface, and will conduct heat both by radiation and convection to the case.

 

When I run the microRendu v 1.4 in my bedroom system at DSD 512, it gets very hot, so I added an external heatsink, and this lowers the case temperature by about 5-6 C. this will help with long term reliability.

 

Also, remember it is not just a single chip in the eR which is creating all that heat, because there are multiple linear LDOs in there which drop significant voltage, so just dealing with a single chip is not what one wants to do. Thinking about it, a little ventilation for the case could do wonders as well, especially if it was applied in such a fashion as to encourage convective airflow though the case...  The case is small, so the internal air volume heats up a lot.


ROON: DSD 256-Sonore opticalModule-Signature Rendu optical--Bricasti M3 DAC--DIY Purifi Amplifier-Focus Audio FS888-JL E 112 sub-Nordost Tyr USB, DIY AC, Iconoclast XLR & speaker cables, Synergistic Orange Fuses, Dark Matter system clarifiers.                                                        
                            

                                   
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20 minutes ago, barrows said:

Of course the heat sink on the case is helping, if it was not drawing away heat, then the sink would remain at room temperature!  I realize that this approach is not the "best" way to cool the internal chips, as these chips are not in direct contact with the case.  But, one has to consider that the air inside the case is transferring heat from the chips, to the case, and hence to the heat sink on top of the case.  

Could the heat dissipation be better with direct contact tot he chips, of course it could, but this does not mean that the sink on the case is not lowering the internal temperature of the eR, it has to be, because the heat sink can be seen to rise above room ambient temperature.  Remember, the case has very little distance internally, from the PCB to its surface, and will conduct heat both by radiation and convection to the case.

 

When I run the microRendu v 1.4 in my bedroom system at DSD 512, it gets very hot, so I added an external heatsink, and this lowers the case temperature by about 5-6 C. this will help with long term reliability.

 

Also, remember it is not just a single chip in the eR which is creating all that heat, because there are multiple linear LDOs in there which drop significant voltage, so just dealing with a single chip is not what one wants to do. Thinking about it, a little ventilation for the case could do wonders as well, especially if it was applied in such a fashion as to encourage convective airflow though the case...  The case is small, so the internal air volume heats up a lot.

Thank you barrows for technikal explenations. My heat sink  is pretty warm, that's mean it is working and now I will have much better sleep😉.

 

Also working good like weight (weighting almost 2 pounds), keeping ER on the place due to use stiff ethernet wires🙂.

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2 hours ago, barrows said:

Thinking about it, a little ventilation for the case could do wonders as well, especially if it was applied in such a fashion as to encourage convective airflow though the case... 

Hmm. That sounds like a chimney.
 

For marketing purposes, I think we should call it the BCS modification (Barrows Convection Stack. 

 

FA28C770-E9C8-4C1D-AA4A-BF70D31CBC35.jpeg

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2 hours ago, barrows said:

Thinking about it, a little ventilation for the case could do wonders as well, especially if it was applied in such a fashion as to encourage convective airflow though the case...  The case is small, so the internal air volume heats up a lot.

 

Or just get rid of the case and run the board alone. 😁


1. Sonore ultraRendu - Uptone ISO Regen - Mola Mola Makua - Apollon NC800 SL PRO - Thiel CS3.7

2. RME ADI-2 DAC FS - Audeze LCD-XC - Apollon NC502MP - Monitor Audio PL100

3. Hidizs S8 - Audeze LCDi3

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For my personal taste the ER is too warm. Heat reduces the Lifetime of the internal Capacitors. If this will be a Problem or not - we will find out in a few years. The ER Case Looks nice - of cause. 

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On 7/28/2020 at 5:12 AM, sunny_time_99 said:

For my personal taste the ER is too warm. Heat reduces the Lifetime of the internal Capacitors. If this will be a Problem or not - we will find out in a few years. The ER Case Looks nice - of cause. 

 

Assuming that you own an ER. Have you had any problems related to heat with your own unit?



"Don't Believe Everything You Think"

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On 7/27/2020 at 2:31 PM, MarkusBarkus said:

For marketing purposes, I think we should call it the BCS modification (Barrows Convection Stack. 

 

FA28C770-E9C8-4C1D-AA4A-BF70D31CBC35.jpeg

As a follow-up to this desecration, er experiment, measuring temp in various places on the case, fins and "stack" I find a maximum of 5 degrees F temp reduction. 
 

However, I do not find the temp to be constant, with or without the BCS mods. Playing music vs. idling seems to increase a bit, and of course, ambient temp differences are in play (It's +/- in a 4 degree range in my below-grade room).

 

It's always a bit cooler on the case with the stack and fins in place, from 2-5 degrees.
 

Logically, it seems this would be lowering internal temp, even if inefficiently.
 

Is this significant with regards to performance or longevity of internal components? I'd guess not so much, which is why the UpTone honchos are not "sweating" this item. And surely NOT recommending drilling holes in their case. That's all on me.

 

Still, always fun to drill holes and work the Dremel. BTW: I did remove the case top before drilling, of course. 

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I don’t really understand the concerns about heat being generated from the ER, & other sources in fact. My amplifier (on 24/7) generates so much heat (much hotter than ER), I don’t even need my home heating on in the winter. 
 

It’s not an issue, sit back & enjoy the music that the SQ of ER brings. 
 

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On 7/18/2020 at 6:37 PM, BigAlMc said:

 

IKEA just refunded me for two of these, ordered on the 6th of July but now mysteriously out of stock 🙄

 

Mysterious my ass, I blame you lot!! And Mr Darko!

 

Worse still I mentioned to my girlfriend and she now wants two for the kitchen and you know, food duties 🤔

 

Cheers,

Alan

 

You can grab some here in Paris : there is an IKEA shop in the city center (direct subway line from my home !!!! )
I use this one upside down with rubber feet under it : https://www.ikea.com/fr/fr/p/laemplig-planche-a-decouper-00394380/


Mac mini server mid 2011 w/ Audirvana+ 3

SOtM SmS-200, SpS-500 and tX-USBhubEX

W4S DAC2 DSDse

Audia Flight FL2

B&W CM10 S2

(and several very good or excellent cables... Lessloss, Actinote, Atohm, Furutech)

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On 7/28/2020 at 4:42 AM, Middy said:

I said before crack the screws loose and put a small shim or washer in the gap. 

Quote

"Use of a fancy linear power supply (such as our matching UltraCap LPS-1.2) is NOT required to get outstanding performance from the EtherREGEN. While high-quality power supplies make a nice difference most everywhere else in a music system, we personally are not hearing very much change with power supplies and the EtherREGEN (certainly owing to its great isolation and internal power networks). Yet others do report some benefit, so you are of course welcome to experiment within the +DC 7~12V range.  [Note: The original UltraCap LPS-1, with top setting of 7V, does not have enough current for the EtherREGEN. The UltraCap LPS-1.2, with its 9V and 12V settings can easily power an EtherREGEN.] " - Uptone Audio

 

One obvious answer  to those concerned about the case temperature would be to reduce the input voltage closer to the minimum +7V if practical. You would however need to use a PSU with say a minimum continuous output of 1.5A  which many cheap Linear PSUs using LM317T voltage regulators are capable of supplying. Confirm the manufacturers ratings first though, as some make ambitious claims , while not using adequate heatsinking for example, or under rated transformers.

 

 


How a Digital Audio file sounds, or a Digital Video file looks, is governed to a large extent by the Power Supply area. All that Identical Checksums gives is the possibility of REGENERATING the file to close to that of the original file.

PROFILE UPDATED 28-06-2020

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