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A novel way to massively improve the SQ of computer audio streaming


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Most important: please realize this thread is about bleeding edge experimentation and discovery. No one has The Answer™. If you are not into tweaking, just know that you can have a musically satisfying system without doing any of the nutty things we do here.

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On 5/4/2020 at 2:19 AM, austinpop said:
  • top row of ports off
  • Ports 2/4/6/8 at 100Mbps, 10/12/14/16 at 1Gbps
  • LLDP off
  • 802.3az off (aka EEE) on all ports
  • ADP (Auto power down) off on all ports
  • Flow Control is ON - this is off by default. 

Hi Rajiv

How does each of these settings impact sound quality on a switch? What are they for?

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1 hour ago, austinpop said:

I actually would now suggest setting:

  • 802.3az ON (aka EEE) on all ports
  • ADP (Auto power down) ON on all ports

and see if this makes an audible difference.

In my system, there is a bit of difference that I can detect.  After going back and forth a couple times, I am going to keep this recommendation, as they removed some edges that I didn't sense it was there before, and it makes the music playback more enjoyable.

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Cheers Markus,

 

But at:

 

$549.99
 
+ $175.03 Shipping & Import Fees Deposit to United Kingdom
 
$700 bucks for the wrong Buffalo? It would make more sense buying the £1100 Melco equivalent S100 Dela from Japan surely? Even including import fees this makes sense.
 
$700+ for an ordinary switch is NOT a good deal. Better waiting to see where switch tech lands, but meantime 500 bucks plus for a switch that should cost 100-150 bucks is best avoided.
 
Cheers,
Alan
 
 

Synergistic Research Powercell UEF SE > Sonore OpticalModule (LPS-1.2 & DXP-1A5DSC) > EtherRegen (SR4T & DXP-1A5DSC) > (Sablon 2020 LAN) Innuos PhoenixNet > Muon Streaming System > Grimm Audio MU1 server > (Sablon AES) Mola Mola Tambaqui DAC > PS Audio M1200 monoblocks > Salk Sound Supercharged Songtowers

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23 hours ago, kennyb123 said:

 

I really can't agree with the first few sentences given the tremendous success I've had with Stillpoints Ultra products.  Just a week ago three used sets of Ultra SS arrived.  These were swapped for Nordost Sort Kones BC under my Zenith Mk3 and for Stillpoints Ultra Mini under my HMS and TT2.  Remarkable the improvement to tone purity, image focus, and transient speed as a result of this swap. Yes Stillpoints are pricy, but the purity of tone that comes forth from them is insanely addictive.  That's why you'll find that most folks who have introduced Stillpoints into their systems have gone nuts with them.  And once you have them under everything, the whole is far greater than the sum of the parts.  

 

Having said all that I've not experimented much with wood. The little that I have tells me that this becomes more an exercise in tuning or flavoring the sound to more to one's liking.  I have avoided that approach when selecting components and cables - opting instead to take steps that cause my system to get the heck out of the way of the music.  This approach keeps proving itself to have been the correct one (for me, at least).  

Hmm....With all due respect, you are disagreeing on the premise that my personal experience using different materials and methodology that you admit you’ve had no real hands-on time with can’t possibly compare and must introduce colorations compared to your personal experience with Stillpoints. Sounds to me these these are personal experiences that neither of us really have enough information or facts to create an opinion on other than I have a box of have a box of Stillpoints in my closet and it’s very unlikely that have a large variety of wood blocks. 

 

I understand pride of ownership and the fact do you are really were excited about your new footers, I get that, but I would not let that cloud my judgment there that there can’t possibly be an alternative that could realize the same or better results.

 

You had mentioned that you have system approaches that work well for you, I respect that and I would never disagree especially since I can never know your system’s character or your listening biases. 

 

There’s simply nothing to disagree about.  Where did I say that Stillpoints or any the other of other companies that make footers are not viable or capable of providing improvement? The fact that you had personal success with Stillpoints does not negate the fact that someone else has personally experienced similar or better results from a different pathway.

TP-LInk 1200 WiFi router>Transparent Audio ethernet cable>Innuos PhoenixNet Switch>Muon Pro ethernet cable>Muon Pro>Grimm Mu2>AudioQuest Dragon XLR>NAD M23> Falcon 2024 Limited Edition LS35a & REL T7Xi sub. Synergistic Research Atmosphere Excite SX powers cords>Puritan Audio 156 pwr conditioner W/Ground Master City.

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I have a separates: modem, router edgerouter 6P and Unifi AP withPOE adapter.

 

 

The blue ethernet cable goes to a stack of 2 ciscos 2960 linked by fiber going to the router.

The yellow ethernet cable goes to the AP with power: can I plug an isolator like Gigafoil between the white POE adapter and the yellow cable to further isolate?

The POE adaptor is plugged to AC, how can I prevent contamination of AC on this side?

20200724_155252_HDR.jpg

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2 hours ago, Ricardo007 said:

What is the difference between creating a separate subnet for audio and creating a separate VLAN for audio?


with a vlan, I’d have to tag traffic and the vlans would be fully isolated without routing/forwarding rules. Since I want my audio server to be able to talk to Roon remote on my laptop and phone (and my file server), that would have been a pain. I had it set up this way initially, but the way I had firewall rules basically required session initiation (I used ping) before the connection would be open. Probably better ways to do it, but not very civilian or audio guest friendly. 

 

with a separate subnet, broadcast traffic is not going between the subnets. Only routed traffic goes to and from the audio server, so I can minimize packets to my audio server without having to play wild routing/forwarding games (my audio server is the only device on my audio subnet)

ATT Fiber -> EdgeRouter X SFP -> Taiko Audio Extreme -> Vinnie Rossi L2i-SE w/ Level 2 DAC -> Voxativ 9.87 speakers w/ 4D drivers

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2 hours ago, MarkusBarkus said:

Any practical experience affixing heatsinks with heat conducting pastes?
 

I have a small aluminum heatsink from Parts-Express "resting" on the eRG, but I could use some goop to further improve the heat transfer. Non-permanent silicon paste.
 

It's sold as a kit, so it includes hardware to screw it down, but I hate to deface the sexy Uptone case with screw holes.


As is, it definitely pulls heat out, based on fin "touch analysis." Helpful to the device? Not sure, but I quite like the stegosaurus look. Old, but new...

ADCD85E5-B25F-4A9D-9BA1-AE45C2809F3D.jpeg

Just resting on there will make for good heat transfer, adding thermal paste will probably not help, unless;ess there is some pressure applied (clamping force) to press the sink to the eR's surface.  Thermal paste is designed to be used in an arrangement with clamping force, to insure the paste is just a very, very thin layer.  If you must keep the heatsink removable, perhaps a double sided thermal tape would be the best way to affix the heat sink, which would provide good thermal transfer, and still be removable.

SO/ROON/HQPe: DSD 512-Sonore opticalModuleDeluxe-Signature Rendu optical with Well Tempered Clock--DIY DSC-2 DAC with SC Pure Clock--DIY Purifi Amplifier-Focus Audio FS888 speakers-JL E 112 sub-Nordost Tyr USB, DIY EventHorizon AC cables, Iconoclast XLR & speaker cables, Synergistic Purple Fuses, Spacetime system clarifiers.  ISOAcoustics Oreas footers.                                                       

                                                                                           SONORE computer audio

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54 minutes ago, barrows said:

Just resting on there will make for good heat transfer, adding thermal paste will probably not help, unless;ess there is some pressure applied (clamping force) to press the sink to the eR's surface.  Thermal paste is designed to be used in an arrangement with clamping force, to insure the paste is just a very, very thin layer.  If you must keep the heatsink removable, perhaps a double sided thermal tape would be the best way to affix the heat sink, which would provide good thermal transfer, and still be removable.

Thanks Barrows! Howze my PS build going? I have to replace this Shanti. 😉

I'm MarkusBarkus and I approve this post.10C78B47-4B41-4675-BB84-885019B72A8B.thumb.png.adc3586c8cc9851ecc7960401af05782.png

 

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