A novel way to massively improve the SQ of computer audio streaming

[Summit]

18 hours ago, austinpop said:

 

This convoluted setup was prompted by John Swenson's findings with regards to switches, SMPSes, and ground shunting. He has several postings across various threads that cover this, but this one from my bookmarks is probably a good one for an overview in regard to switches:

https://www.computeraudiophile.com/forums/topic/30376-a-novel-way-to-massively-improve-the-sq-of-computer-audio-streaming/?do=findComment&comment=730832

 

And this one gets into his observation that only some switches seem to block noise through the magnetics in each port:

https://www.computeraudiophile.com/forums/topic/35129-a-novel-way-to-massively-improve-the-sq-of-the-microrendu-ultrarendu/?do=findComment&comment=723196

 

The bottom line is that we don't know the universe of switches that block noise correctly. John has tested and confirmed that the Netgear FS/GS 105/108 switches are good. 

 

Given this data, the question for me was - what about my modded Zyxel switch? Obviously, if I could get John to test it on his measurement setup, I'd know. But John has made it clear he can't spend his entire waking life testing switches, and who can blame him! 

 

In considering the choices, it was actually John who came up with the suggestion of preceding the unknown (leakage characteristics) switch with a known one like the Netgear. 

 

As for SQ, when I added the Netgear prior to the modded Zyxel, I wasn't sure I heard much of an SQ difference at all. In keeping with my practice of periodically revisiting my optimizations to confirm they still matter, I will redo the experiment with and without the Netgear in my latest setup to see if it actually helps SQ or not.

 

Okay, let see if it’s better with or without the Netgear switch, when you have done some testing.  

[RickyV]

1 hour ago, zoltan said:

@austinpop I'm sorry for the slow response, it was night over here. Others have explained how to open it. I also found the same glue-like semi-transparent material fixing the board to the chassis. As @mozes pointed out, it can be 'detached' from the chassis with a small, sharp screwdriver but if your goal is just to check the length of the cable and not to change it, I wouldn't do it. As you said, you already checked the length. 

I think options are

1. live with it as it is.

2. swap for a shorter cable assembly - can be bought for 3-4 dollars,

3. send it back to SOtM to do it,

4. remove the clock cable assembly (including the BNC input connector) and replace it with something like this:
 https://www.ebay.com/itm/IPX-u-fl-to-BNC-Male-Plug-Pigtail-1-13mm-Cable-For-Wlan-Mini-PCI-40cm-Length/272853419086?_trkparms=aid%3D555017%26algo%3DPL.CASSINI%26ao%3D1%26asc%3D50686%26meid%3Dd178560dcd2f4339aafeef0cd862cb3c%26pid%3D100643%26rk%3D1%26rkt%3D1%26%26itm%3D272853419086&_trksid=p2045573.c100643.m3226

 

It is still 40cm but can connect straight to Ref10 (or another clock) without two extra BNC connectors. 
The clock cable can go through the existing hole and can be fixed with a cable gland. 
 

I wonder which brings a better result, no 4.: 40 cm of lowish quality clock cable but only 1 BNC connector, or no. 2. A 15 cm lowish quality clock cable 1m high-quality clock cable and 3 BNC connectors. I have feeling that the first option might actually be better and lot cheaper.

 

The fault is with sotm, contact them and ask for new shorter cables. Thay should sent them for free.

[rickca]

I just updated to Windows 10 Pro Version 1709 (Fall Creators Update).  I can no longer get my bridged network adapter to work ... my PCIe wifi adapter keeps losing its connection to the internet.  When I delete the bridge, the same wifi adapter works perfectly!  

 

This bridged network adapter worked fine prior to the update when I was running the original Creators Update (Version 1703).  

 

Is anyone successfully running a bridged network adapter including a wifi component on 1709?  What wifi adapter are you using?  I don't know if FCU has a bug or if my wifi adapter driver is the problem.  I'm using an Asus PCE-AC56 and it works fine with the default Microsoft driver when unbridged.  The Asus driver never worked even back on Version 1703.

[mozes]

3 hours ago, zoltan said:

Do you mean soldering the clock cable to the sCLK-ex board? In other words, you would not use an U.FL connector on the cable but solder it to the U.FL input terminal?

Sorry I thought it is soldered to the board, it is actually easier with the U.FL connector.

[mozes]

3 hours ago, zoltan said:

@austinpop I'm sorry for the slow response, it was night over here. Others have explained how to open it. I also found the same glue-like semi-transparent material fixing the board to the chassis. As @mozes pointed out, it can be 'detached' from the chassis with a small, sharp screwdriver but if your goal is just to check the length of the cable and not to change it, I wouldn't do it. As you said, you already checked the length. 

I think options are

1. live with it as it is.

2. swap for a shorter cable assembly - can be bought for 3-4 dollars,

3. send it back to SOtM to do it,

4. remove the clock cable assembly (including the BNC input connector) and replace it with something like this:
 https://www.ebay.com/itm/IPX-u-fl-to-BNC-Male-Plug-Pigtail-1-13mm-Cable-For-Wlan-Mini-PCI-40cm-Length/272853419086?_trkparms=aid%3D555017%26algo%3DPL.CASSINI%26ao%3D1%26asc%3D50686%26meid%3Dd178560dcd2f4339aafeef0cd862cb3c%26pid%3D100643%26rk%3D1%26rkt%3D1%26%26itm%3D272853419086&_trksid=p2045573.c100643.m3226

 

It is still 40cm but can connect straight to Ref10 (or another clock) without two extra BNC connectors. 
The clock cable can go through the existing hole and can be fixed with a cable gland. 
 

I wonder which brings a better result, no 4.: 40 cm of lowish quality clock cable but only 1 BNC connector, or no. 2. A 15 cm lowish quality clock cable 1m high-quality clock cable and 3 BNC connectors. I have feeling that the first option might actually be better and lot cheaper.

I bet on 4. There will be no need for any expensive audiophile BNC cables.

[Confused]

7 minutes ago, mozes said:

I bet on 4. There will be no need for any expensive audiophile BNC cables.

I like the idea of 4 also.  Simple, one less connector, it achieves a short length of cable and results in one less connector.  Sounds like a better idea than £800  worth of Habst cable which then connects to a £3 item off ebay.

 

I am still tempted by the Habst or similar for my connection between the REF10 and MC3+USB though.  

 

I did a bit of experimenting today.  With the REF10 it is easy to turn off individual clock feeds.  To be honest, I need to spend more time with this, my brain is a bit frazzled with endless A/B testing this weekend.  But in short, adding the REF10 to the MC3+USB seams to make a big improvement in my system.  Turning off the clock signals to the tX-USBultra and / or sMS-200Ultra does not seem to make very much of a difference at all.  Controversial I know, but that is the impression I got with a quick test.  To reiterate, I do need to spend some more time with this one, but my thoughts so far is that one Habst (or similar) is all I will ever buy.

[austinpop]

7 hours ago, BigAlMc said:

 

This one:

 

https://mcru.co.uk/product/mcru-audio-grade-dc-power-cable/?v=0a382091bbc8

 

They don't list exact specs, I might ask actually, but I've bought a number of items over the years from this outfit (including most of my mains power cables) and the quality is always really good. 

 

Reasonable price and it'll be in my impatient hands in a day or two. But no idea how it'll compare to others like the one you reviewed. 

 

Good looking cable at an attractive price. Keep us posted on what you hear with it!

[austinpop]

4 hours ago, zoltan said:

@austinpop I'm sorry for the slow response, it was night over here. Others have explained how to open it. I also found the same glue-like semi-transparent material fixing the board to the chassis. As @mozes pointed out, it can be 'detached' from the chassis with a small, sharp screwdriver but if your goal is just to check the length of the cable and not to change it, I wouldn't do it. As you said, you already checked the length. 

I think options are

1. live with it as it is.

2. swap for a shorter cable assembly - can be bought for 3-4 dollars,

3. send it back to SOtM to do it,

4. remove the clock cable assembly (including the BNC input connector) and replace it with something like this:
 https://www.ebay.com/itm/IPX-u-fl-to-BNC-Male-Plug-Pigtail-1-13mm-Cable-For-Wlan-Mini-PCI-40cm-Length/272853419086?_trkparms=aid%3D555017%26algo%3DPL.CASSINI%26ao%3D1%26asc%3D50686%26meid%3Dd178560dcd2f4339aafeef0cd862cb3c%26pid%3D100643%26rk%3D1%26rkt%3D1%26%26itm%3D272853419086&_trksid=p2045573.c100643.m3226

 

It is still 40cm but can connect straight to Ref10 (or another clock) without two extra BNC connectors. 
The clock cable can go through the existing hole and can be fixed with a cable gland. 
 

I wonder which brings a better result, no 4.: 40 cm of lowish quality clock cable but only 1 BNC connector, or no. 2. A 15 cm lowish quality clock cable 1m high-quality clock cable and 3 BNC connectors. I have feeling that the first option might actually be better and lot cheaper.

 

Yup, that about sums it up. No idea what the right answer is!

 

Thsnks for the tip about the glue. I do want to proceed so I can get at the voltage jumpers.

[Confused]

I spent some more time playing with various options in my system.  The one thing I had not tried yesterday was the sMS-200Ultra direct to the MC3+USB.  I wanted to try this to get more of a feel for what each component is contributing to the overall system.

 

I am glad I did this, one thing that is now clear is that the slight harshness that I am experiencing with some material is resulting from the sMS-200Ultra, but at the same time I can see that the sMS-200Ultra is producing some real magic.  All the tX does is improve things!  So, with the tX out of the chain I tried a battery power supply on the sMS-200Ultra, and this did seem to help the harshness issue somewhat.  Adding the tXUSBUltra back in the chain simply improves everything, the negatives are mitigated to a degree, and more positives emerge.  Trying battery power was an interesting experiment, thanks to @mozes for suggesting this.  Another interesting point, the little battery pack I bought (see link below) was quite happy powering both the sMS-200Ultra and tXUSBultra together with a 'Y' cable.

 

https://www.amazon.co.uk/gp/product/B072HR211P/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

 

With the tXUSBultra back in the chain I tried every option possible between battery power and the sPS-500.  It was a little strange that with the sMS-200Ultra on battery power direct to the MC3+USB, this seemed to take the edge off the harshness.  Powering both the tX and sMS with a battery versus the sPS-500, or trying battery power with one, sPS-500 with the other, all seemed to yield similar results, remarkably similar.  It did get to the point that I had A/B tested so much that I just had to stop!  So there may have been some marginal differences but after a day and a half of A/B testing it was time to stop.  So I decided to give up, rearranged the kit back in the shelf, and have just been enjoying some music, and as it happens, the system is sounding terrific now!

 

I'll revisit this one another day.

[Confused]

4 hours ago, zoltan said:

 

4. remove the clock cable assembly (including the BNC input connector) and replace it with something like this:
 https://www.ebay.com/itm/IPX-u-fl-to-BNC-Male-Plug-Pigtail-1-13mm-Cable-For-Wlan-Mini-PCI-40cm-Length/272853419086?_trkparms=aid%3D555017%26algo%3DPL.CASSINI%26ao%3D1%26asc%3D50686%26meid%3Dd178560dcd2f4339aafeef0cd862cb3c%26pid%3D100643%26rk%3D1%26rkt%3D1%26%26itm%3D272853419086&_trksid=p2045573.c100643.m3226

 

 

One thought regarding this idea.  The cable per the link is $3.  Is there one for $9 that is maybe three times better, or even one for $30 that is twice as good.  The point being, if anyone is going to all the time and effort of opening up their kit and soldering in new cables, you might as well spend a little more than $3.  But is there anything like this available?

[octaviars]

39 minutes ago, Confused said:

 

I am glad I did this, one thing that is now clear is that the slight harshness that I am experiencing with some material is resulting from the sMS-200Ultra, but at the same time I can see that the sMS-200Ultra is producing some real magic.  All the tX does is improve things! 

 

@Confused I have just seen your answer at Devialet chat so dont bother with replaying to this I wrote here....

 

 

So am I right that you would not want to use the SOtM chain without the tX? 

 

I am very close to buying a used tX and run that with a second SR4. 

 

I dont feel that my sms Ultra is harsh in my system, perhaps it was a bit with the original 9V SMPS. With the Paul Hynes SR4 fully burnt in I really feel that hear details and deep in the music without it geting to bright with my TAD speakers. 

 

 

[mozes]

15 minutes ago, Confused said:

One thought regarding this idea.  The cable per the link is $3.  Is there one for $9 that is maybe three times better, or even one for $30 that is twice as good.  The point being, if anyone is going to all the time and effort of opening up their kit and soldering in new cables, you might as well spend a little more than $3.  But is there anything like this available?

Yes this makes sense, maybe Digikey has something better.

[zoltan]

1 minute ago, Confused said:

One thought regarding this idea.  The cable per the link is $3.  Is there one for $9 that is maybe three times better, or even one for $30 that is twice as good.  The point being, if anyone is going to all the time and effort of opening up their kit and soldering in new cables, you might as well spend a little more than $3.  But is there anything like this available?

Of course, I thought of that too but I didn't find any off the shelf cables that looked better. The u.fl connector at one end seems very tricky as it is very small, so it kind of limits what cable can be used with it. There is the black one found in the tx-USB ultra and another that is kind of peach coloured - looking the same as the clock cable that SOtM gave to connect the modded switch with. 

 

On your finding that SOtM devices are less 'responsive' to external clocking matches both mine and of another member here a few months ago (could have been Romaz or Swissbear). I would say that if the effect on MC3+USB is '100', it is around '20-25' on the SMS-200 ultra. 
This could be 
1. The clock in the sCLK-ex is already pretty good. 

2. The internal cheap clock cable reduces the effect of the clock

3. The reclocking is not implemented as precisely in the Ultra as in the MC3+ /or optimised for SOtM's own external clock
or any combination or non of the above 

A consequence of the above is that it might be a good idea to buy a good quality clock cable for between the Mutec devices but not so much for the SOtM units. And of course, I will be getting a second MC3+USB soon   maybe after the Munich show. 

[hurka]

I fit 18 pcs nesscap direct under sclk ex board.lps1.2 cant charge up,but sps 500 no problem.after charge I change back lps1.2 ,energizing the nesscap.What do you think?need any expensive dc cables????

[auricgoldfinger]

Since you guys have been offering help to the DIY-challenged, I would appreciate suggestions for my problem.

 

I always used an LPS-1 set at 7v to power my sMS-200ultra set at 9v and never had a problem.  @MayfromSOtMtold me it was a bad idea, so I opened the case and changed the jumpers.  In the process, I also dislodged a cable and had to return the unit to Korea for repair.

 

When I recently tried to open the case to change the voltage setting back to 9v, I discovered the screws are now too tight for me to unscrew them.  The price of this discovery was damaged threads on 2 screws.  May has been completely uncooperative in helping me and refuses to even acknowledge that they made the screws too tight.  (Never mind the fact that I was able to open the unit once before, or that I also opened my sPS-500 and tX-USBultra without incident.)  Even if I were to spend the $100-150 to return it to Korea, there is a high likelihood they won't fix it given May's lack of cooperation to this point.

 

Does anyone have suggestions for getting the screws out that don't involve a drill?

 

[kennyb123]

23 hours ago, spotforscott said:

Hi Guys, I am having trouble connecting Synology NAS to Roon using a bridged mini-mac config and full trifecta solution. I can see the NAS in the mini-mac finder and can get to NAS via the web. However, when I try to add it as a folder via "add network share" feature, it says path invalid. Any help would be really appreciated... thx

 

Not sure if you’ve resolved this yet as I’m slowly getting caught up on this thread.

 

Roon makes the connection via SMB, whereas the Finder has a few additional tricks up its sleeve to discover shared folders.

 

i used an SMB path to access my share from Roon:

 

smb://10.0.0.83/Media

 

Note one downside to this is that your NAS needs to retain the IP address, or Roon will think it’s an entirely different folder and rescan.  Be sure to reserve the IP address for you NAS.

 

Also enable SMB3 on your Synology.  This is in Control Panel...File Sevices....Advanced Settings (for SMB)... Maximum SMB protocol.

.

Hope this helps.

[zoltan]

13 minutes ago, auricgoldfinger said:

Since you guys have been offering help to the DIY-challenged, I would appreciate suggestions for my problem.

 

I always used an LPS-1 set at 7v to power my sMS-200ultra set at 9v and never had a problem.  @MayfromSOtMtold me it was a bad idea, so I opened the case and changed the jumpers.  In the process, I also dislodged a cable and had to return the unit to Korea for repair.

 

When I recently tried to open the case to change the voltage setting back to 9v, I discovered the screws are now too tight for me to unscrew them.  The price of this discovery was damaged threads on 2 screws.  May has been completely uncooperative in helping me and refuses to even acknowledge that they made the screws too tight.  (Never mind the fact that I was able to open the unit once before, or that I also opened my sPS-500 and tX-USBultra without incident.)  Even if I were to spend the $100-150 to return it to Korea, there is a high likelihood they won't fix it given May's lack of cooperation to this point.

 

Does anyone have suggestions for getting the screws out that don't involve a drill?

 

What is too tight is quite subjective. Probably you didn't have the right tool with enough torque. At the same time, I must say that I had the same problem last week when opening my tx-USB ultra to change the voltage. Earlier the SMS-200 ultra opened so easily that this time I was even thinking of giving up and just use 9V for now. Then with all my effort I finally managed to unscrew all screws but my wrist was hurting for a while after that. But I must say I also didn't have the right tool. It was a small 4-5 inch long screwdriver with exchangeable heads. With a proper screwdriver with the right head, it would have been easier.

 

This doesn't help you of course but as I was initially stuck with the opening I checked a few videos on Youtube what to do. A few of them suggested using WD40 or better even some 'screw loosening spray' that after some time would leak into between the screw and the thread if you leave it in a vertical position. (Make sure it doesn't go on electric parts inside.) Then it will be easier to remove the screws. But with the top of the screws damaged already, I'm not sure that it's gonna be enough.  

[auricgoldfinger]

1 minute ago, zoltan said:

What is too tight is quite subjective. Probably you didn't have the right tool with enough torque. At the same time, I must say that I had the same problem last week when opening my tx-USB ultra to change the voltage. Earlier the SMS-200 ultra opened so easily that this time I was even thinking of giving up and just use 9V for now. Then with all my effort I finally managed to unscrew all screws but my wrist was hurting for a while after that. But I must say I also didn't have the right tool. It was a small 4-5 inch long screwdriver with exchangeable heads. With a proper screwdriver with the right head, it would have been easier.

 

This doesn't help you of course but as I was initially stuck with the opening I checked a few videos on Youtube what to do. A few of them suggested using WD40 or better even some 'screw loosening spray' that after some time would leak into between the screw and the thread if you leave it in a vertical position. (Make sure it doesn't go on electric parts inside.) Then it will be easier to remove the screws. But with the top of the screws damaged already, I'm not sure that it's gonna be enough.  

 

I was using a Torx 8 screwdriver recommended by SOtM.  I'll look into screw loosening sprays.  Thanks for the suggestions.

[Lebouwsky]

1 hour ago, auricgoldfinger said:

Since you guys have been offering help to the DIY-challenged, I would appreciate suggestions for my problem.

 

I always used an LPS-1 set at 7v to power my sMS-200ultra set at 9v and never had a problem.  @MayfromSOtMtold me it was a bad idea, so I opened the case and changed the jumpers.  In the process, I also dislodged a cable and had to return the unit to Korea for repair.

 

When I recently tried to open the case to change the voltage setting back to 9v, I discovered the screws are now too tight for me to unscrew them.  The price of this discovery was damaged threads on 2 screws.  May has been completely uncooperative in helping me and refuses to even acknowledge that they made the screws too tight.  (Never mind the fact that I was able to open the unit once before, or that I also opened my sPS-500 and tX-USBultra without incident.)  Even if I were to spend the $100-150 to return it to Korea, there is a high likelihood they won't fix it given May's lack of cooperation to this point.

 

Does anyone have suggestions for getting the screws out that don't involve a drill?

 

It will open with the right screw driver. If the head is badly damaged one can always remove the head from the screw by drilling. Bring it to an electronic specialist in your neighbourhoud and ask him to open the case and to replace the screws. It won’t break the bank.

[austinpop]

3 hours ago, zoltan said:

Of course, I thought of that too but I didn't find any off the shelf cables that looked better. The u.fl connector at one end seems very tricky as it is very small, so it kind of limits what cable can be used with it. There is the black one found in the tx-USB ultra and another that is kind of peach coloured - looking the same as the clock cable that SOtM gave to connect the modded switch with. 

 

Since you guys have actually opened up your units and had a closer look at the board and U.FL connector... Do you know, or can you see, where and how the termination is implemented? Remember, the master clock input is either 50 or 75 Ω terminated, depending on how you ordered it. I just wonder whether you have to take this termination into account when considering alternative internal cables.

 

3 hours ago, zoltan said:

On your finding that SOtM devices are less 'responsive' to external clocking matches both mine and of another member here a few months ago (could have been Romaz or Swissbear). I would say that if the effect on MC3+USB is '100', it is around '20-25' on the SMS-200 ultra. 
This could be 
1. The clock in the sCLK-ex is already pretty good. 

2. The internal cheap clock cable reduces the effect of the clock

3. The reclocking is not implemented as precisely in the Ultra as in the MC3+ /or optimised for SOtM's own external clock
or any combination or non of the above 

A consequence of the above is that it might be a good idea to buy a good quality clock cable for between the Mutec devices but not so much for the SOtM units. And of course, I will be getting a second MC3+USB soon   maybe after the Munich show. 

 

I'll have to take your word for it, as I have not ever heard an MC-3+ USB. I suspect the DAC has a lot to do with it too. My DAC is pretty much designed for USB input, so the tX-USBultra synergizes really well with it.

[spotforscott]

2 hours ago, kennyb123 said:

 

Not sure if you’ve resolved this yet as I’m slowly getting caught up on this thread.

 

Roon makes the connection via SMB, whereas the Finder has a few additional tricks up its sleeve to discover shared folders.

 

i used an SMB path to access my share from Roon:

 

smb://10.0.0.83/Media

 

Note one downside to this is that your NAS needs to retain the IP address, or Roon will think it’s an entirely different folder and rescan.  Be sure to reserve the IP address for you NAS.

 

Also enable SMB3 on your Synology.  This is in Control Panel...File Sevices....Advanced Settings (for SMB)... Maximum SMB protocol.

.

Hope this helps.

Thanks very much for the tip. I will give it a try later today

[austinpop]

3 hours ago, octaviars said:

run that with a second SR4. 

 

With the Paul Hynes SR4 fully burnt in I really feel that hear details and deep in the music without it geting to bright with my TAD speakers. 

 

I would love to hear other voices reviewing the SR-4. Did I miss it, or am I the only one who has had anything to say about it?

 

Come on, people!

[austinpop]

4 hours ago, Confused said:

I did a bit of experimenting today.  With the REF10 it is easy to turn off individual clock feeds.  To be honest, I need to spend more time with this, my brain is a bit frazzled with endless A/B testing this weekend.  But in short, adding the REF10 to the MC3+USB seams to make a big improvement in my system.  Turning off the clock signals to the tX-USBultra and / or sMS-200Ultra does not seem to make very much of a difference at all.  Controversial I know, but that is the impression I got with a quick test.  To reiterate, I do need to spend some more time with this one, but my thoughts so far is that one Habst (or similar) is all I will ever buy.

 

I was up very late last night, because I just couldn't stop listening to the Ref 10 in my system. The musicality is just crazy, and despite my incessant urge to test things, I just kicked back and enjoyed the music. Well - I couldn't resist one test, which was to use the knob on the Ref 10 to enable/disable the clock.

 

Regarding your observation, @Confused, I can certainly understand. One thing I have found is that some tracks are way better than others to discern the effect. And it does take a few seconds for the brain to register. I find it better to repeat a snippet every time you make the change, rather than do it while letting a track continue on. Here are some tracks where I found the clock effect to be massive, as in "hit you on the head":

• The Game of Love, Daft Punk
• Y tú qué has hecho - Buena Vista Social Club
• Take Five - Dave Brubeck
• Mahler Symphony 5, Rondo - Finale - Osmo Vänskä, Minnesota Orchestra
• Mahler Symphony 1, 4th movement - Ivan Fischer, Budapest

And regarding the MC-3+ USB, see my response to @zoltan. I'm sure DAC synergy plays a role too. I will say that while I don't know how good the MC-3+ USB's native clock is, the sCLK-EX in and of itself is no slouch, and is what propelled @romaz's and my exploration lo these 100s of pages ago!

[auricgoldfinger]

23 minutes ago, austinpop said:

 

I would love to hear other voices reviewing the SR-4. Did I miss it, or am I the only one who has had anything to say about it?

 

Come on, people!

 

You set the bar very high for reviews, so we are all a little intimidated. 

[austinpop]

2 minutes ago, auricgoldfinger said:

 

You set the bar very high for reviews, so we are all a little intimidated. 

 

Heh! Somehow I don't buy the shrinking violet defense - not here on CA.