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A novel way to massively improve the SQ of computer audio streaming


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Most important: please realize this thread is about bleeding edge experimentation and discovery. No one has The Answer™. If you are not into tweaking, just know that you can have a musically satisfying system without doing any of the nutty things we do here.

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5 hours ago, manishex said:

Any recommendations on what to upgrade that lps-1 meanwell SMPS to? 

Having checked a bunch of Mean Well units, including a couple of the their "medical" ones, I can tell you that the odds of the one you are looking at being designed with its DC zero-volt output "ground" common to the AC inlet ground are very slim.  For whatever reason, Mean Well does not seem to do this with any of their units.  I tried for months to get an answer from the factory about this--and to get them to make us 1,000 units with the change--and got nowhere.  That's why we moved to a different supplier for the LPS-1.2 charger.  Even then, the shunting is not something that is found in the spec sheets--we had to buy lots of samples to find one.

 

After the first 250 LPS-1.2 orders are shipped, we will begin offering our 7.5V/4.8A/36W adapter separately for $15 to those who want one.  Until then, there is a CUI brand 12V/2.5A/30W unit available in the US from DigiKey and other distributors (https://www.digikey.com/products/en?keywords=102-4104-ND.  This is one that I personally confirmed connects AC ground to DC output "ground." 

 

Hope this helps.

--Alex C.

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5 hours ago, mozes said:

We all have our sins

Yeah, but mine is original. :)

Pareto Audio AMD 7700 Server --> Berkeley Alpha USB --> Jeff Rowland Aeris --> Jeff Rowland 625 S2 --> Focal Utopia 3 Diablos with 2 x Focal Electra SW 1000 BE subs

 

i7-6700K/Windows 10  --> EVGA Nu Audio Card --> Focal CMS50's 

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https://www.audiostream.com/content/barn-gigafoilv4-–-inline

 

Their "FOIL" trademark stands for fiber optic isolation link so I assume it really is fiber optic.

 

This is a brochure for their older model:

https://www.djmelectronics.com/GigaFOILv3 Brochure.pdf

 

They even appear to have a high speed USB 2.0 isolator that uses optical isolation (apparently) which I've never heard of before:

 

https://www.djmelectronics.com/usb-emi-rfi-filter.html

 

Has anyone had any experience with any of their products?

 

I've mentioned this in another forum also but I can't find a single review anywhere and the price but that could be because they appear to supply industrial and military industries, not audiophile specifically.

 

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1 hour ago, mozes said:

Has anyone tried the LPS-1.2 with the tX-USBexp? For some unknown reason It doesn’t work eventhough the LPS-1.2 shows a green light.

The LPS-1.2 works fine with the sCLk-EX board and the tX-USBultra. 

 

Hi @mozes yeah I'm using my new LPS-1.2 with the tX-USBexp no problem.

 

Both are 9v. Is your TX-USBultra 9 or 12v? 

 

Cheers, 

Alan 

Synergistic Research Powercell UEF SE > Sonore OpticalModule (LPS-1.2 & DXP-1A5DSC) > EtherRegen (SR4T & DXP-1A5DSC) > (Sablon 2020 LAN) Innuos PhoenixNet > Muon Streaming System > Grimm MU1 > (Sablon 2020 AES) > Mola Mola Tambaqui DAC > PS Audio M1200 monoblocks > Focal Sopra No2 speakers

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A few pages back, DC power cables for LPSUs were discussed...

 

I'm going to experiment with building one up with pure silver hookup wire. What I couldn't ascertain is:

 

1) Solid core VS Multi-strand - which could prove better, I am thinking of building up with solid core AWG22 or AWG24 here https://www.hificollective.co.uk/wire/neotech-sost-occ-silver-wire.html but would neotech's multi-strand be potentially better such as https://www.hificollective.co.uk/wire/neotech-stdst-occ-silver-wire.html

 

2) This is going to be the feed from a LPSU to Dac (to start with, then might build more for other items), I see most SMPS cables have no screen for example. Should I add a screen braid like here or not bother https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/4mm-SHIELDED-SCREENING-BRAID-for-DIy-cables/253114846080 and if I do do I terminate just at the LPSU end, or not terminate at all

 

Thanks for your help

 

PS. I have been trying two LPSUs on a Brooklyn Dac+ and one has a socket so I can experiment with cables (the other doesn't). I have tried the cable that came with it and then tried a Ghent one. The difference is clear and probably as much as the difference between the two LPSUs was. So, this is an experiment to see if building a better cable can get more difference or should I say improvement. My feeling is that this is very likely an achievable goal indeed.

 

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@flkin Wow! Great system! Thanks for the review. I wonder how hi-fi magazines survive if we can read such fantastic reviews online. 


My front-end is very similar to what you found best, except the Antipodes and power supplies. I use a passive PC (in Streacom DB4) Win 10 I built myself. It is not optimized so my conclusion from your review is that perhaps it is something worth looking at. At the same time, given the price of an Antipod, do you think that difference was significant enough (compared to a Macbook) to justify $7500? 

 

I have also experimented with some network isolation to avoid the need to optimize the server. I have a few Acoustic Revive RLI-1s that work nicely but the best so far was a FMC between the SOtM modded switch and the SMS-200 ultra where the receiving side is powered by the SPS-500. It seems to isolate noise prior in the chain so well that putting the D-Link switch back to its original SMPS power supply didn't even matter.  

Recently, I friend brought over two more MC3+USBs and thus we cascaded three. It is an incredible difference compared to one and I am torn between getting one more MC3+USB or a Habst clock cable, nearly the same price. I am just going to order Canare clock cables that are optimized up to 12GHz https://www.sportsvideo.org/2017/04/25/nab-2017-canare-intros-12g-coax-for-4k-uhd-television-signals/
I wish I (or anybody else) had a chance to test this against the Habst. Speaking of the Habst, I technically can't understand what that separate gound does. A digital 75 ohm signal is supposed to be coax in geometry and have a 'signal' as the centre core and 'shield' as gound. Does anyone have a clue how it works in Habst?

 

Lastly, can I ask what software you used and what settings? Upsampling? Filters? Dither? etc,
 

HQplayer - NAA - Devialet D-800 - YG Acoustics Carmel + dual ELAC sub-2090

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6 hours ago, BigAlMc said:

 

Hi @mozes yeah I'm using my new LPS-1.2 with the tX-USBexp no problem.

 

Both are 9v. Is your TX-USBultra 9 or 12v? 

 

Cheers, 

Alan 

Thanks Alan, then there is something wrong with the tX-USBexp. What’s puzzling is that it works with the LPS-1 at 7V but not with the LPS-1.2 at 7V. 

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1 hour ago, mfin said:

1) Solid core VS Multi-strand - which could prove better, I am thinking of building up with solid core AWG22 or AWG24

I have been building some DC cables for my personal use and I have tried many many conductors with various gauges including copper, silver, and silver plated copper, stranded and solid core. 

I found that the most important aspect

to SQ is gauge, go for the largest gauge you can regardless whether it is solid core or stranded. As for copper vs. silver you really need to try in your system to find the tonality that matches best with your system. 

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9 minutes ago, Johnseye said:

 

How about at 9v?

No luck at 9v as well. After some trials, I think there is something related to the LT3045 regulators because I tried a 12V battery with a 9V  LT3045 and it didn’t work as well. This is very odd indeed. 

 

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Ok I have identified what the issue is. As I expected it is in the LT3045 boards. As soon as I plugged the LPS-1.2, I hear a slight buzzing noise detectable from 50cm away. I plugged my battery with the LT3045 and I also heard the same buzzing noise, this time the board is external so I knew that the buzzing noise is coming from it. 

Also, when I power off the sps-500 that powers the motheboard the buzzing goes away. Power it on again and the buzzing noise starts.

I will send an email to SOTM to explain what is going once  and see what they recommend.

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54 minutes ago, mozes said:

I found that the most important aspect to SQ is gauge, go for the largest gauge you can regardless whether it is solid core or stranded.

 

 

When the opening of DC plug (i.e. the diameter) is 8.5 mm, the area should be 56.75 mm²

 

https://www.sensorsone.com/circle-diameter-to-area-calculator/

 

Let's say we just wanna go totally nuts and we're giving 6 AWG a try. The diameter of each wire is 4.11 mm while the area is 13.3 mm² accordingly to this link

 

https://www.engineeringtoolbox.com/awg-wire-gauge-d_731.html

 

Could we actually fit two pieces of 6 AWG wires inside a modified Elec plug? If so, could those unusually thick wires be super difficult to solder?

 

http://www.elecaudio.com/en/hi-fi-connectors/286-elecaudio-dc-21g-jack-dc-connector-5525mm-gold-plated.html

https://www.audiophonics.fr/en/connecteurs-jack/elecaudio-dc-21g-gold-plated-connector-jack-dc-55-21mm-p-9822.html
https://www.computeraudiophile.com/forums/topic/31554-diy-dc-power-cables/?page=8&tab=comments#comment-658536

 

On 5/3/2017 at 10:09 PM, Michael-Elijah Audio said:

Standard vs. modified Elac plugs - opening now 8.5mm - big enough for almost any cable...:)

Cut with hacksaw, then careful filing with flat bastard and finished with wet & dry paper

P1010991.thumb.JPG.86e349c2ad21172d063039e8a65ee95d.JPG

 

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17 minutes ago, seeteeyou said:

 

 

When the opening of DC plug (i.e. the diameter) is 8.5 mm, the area should be 56.75 mm²

 

https://www.sensorsone.com/circle-diameter-to-area-calculator/

 

Let's say we just wanna go totally nuts and we're giving 6 AWG a try. The diameter of each wire is 4.11 mm while the area is 13.3 mm² accordingly to this link

 

https://www.engineeringtoolbox.com/awg-wire-gauge-d_731.html

 

Could we actually fit two pieces of 6 AWG wires inside a modified Elec plug? If so, could those unusually thick wires be super difficult to solder?

 

http://www.elecaudio.com/en/hi-fi-connectors/286-elecaudio-dc-21g-jack-dc-connector-5525mm-gold-plated.html

https://www.audiophonics.fr/en/connecteurs-jack/elecaudio-dc-21g-gold-plated-connector-jack-dc-55-21mm-p-9822.html
https://www.computeraudiophile.com/forums/topic/31554-diy-dc-power-cables/?page=8&tab=comments#comment-658536

 

 

Great idea to cut the end off of the DC plug but is it sourced from "ELAC" or "ELEC"audio?

Could not find a source for the Elecaudio plugs in the USA?!  Links?

I have used Oyaide but these would be less expensive.

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42 minutes ago, mozes said:

Ok I have identified what the issue is. As I expected it is in the LT3045 boards. As soon as I plugged the LPS-1.2, I hear a slight buzzing noise detectable from 50cm away. I plugged my battery with the LT3045 and I also heard the same buzzing noise, this time the board is external so I knew that the buzzing noise is coming from it. 

Also, when I power off the sps-500 that powers the motheboard the buzzing goes away. Power it on again and the buzzing noise starts.

I will send an email to SOTM to explain what is going once  and see what they recommend.

 

Where is the LT3045 located?  I wasn't aware SOtM used these in their products.

 

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Just now, Johnseye said:

 

Where is the LT3045 located?  I wasn't aware SOtM used these in their products.

 

Inside the LPS-1.2. For the battery, I put them in series with the DC wire from the battery to the tX-USBexp

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Just now, mozes said:

Inside the LPS-1.2. For the battery, I put them in series with the DC wire from the battery to the tX-USBexp

 

Uptone uses them in the new LPS?  Why are you asking SOtM about it?  Sorry for the ignorance, just trying to understand what is stock vs. custom and why there's an issue.

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18 minutes ago, Johnseye said:

 

Uptone uses them in the new LPS?  Why are you asking SOtM about it?  Sorry for the ignorance, just trying to understand what is stock vs. custom and why there's an issue.

Because the LPS-1.2 works fine so I suspect there is a compatibility issue with the tX-USBexp and the way it is wired inside my server.

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8 minutes ago, Johnseye said:

 

Do you also have the molex connected to the mobo?  Is the tX-USBexp connected to an sCLK?

No the molex is not connected to the motherboard. The tX-USBexps are clocked by the sCLK-EX board.

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What an excellent review, @flkin, in the finest tradition of this thread! I am envious of the collective quality of equipment you had on hand, although perhaps less so than others, as we have a lot of this gear in Austin as well!

 

In general, I am glad to hear that your findings are quite consistent with @limniscate's and mine, and many others on this thread. Of course, the general finding is that everything matters - clocks, PSUs, cables, and everything else. But more specifically, it points to an approach with clocking that I really hope manufacturers are paying heed. And that is:

  1. pay attention to the quality of both your word and your system clocks
    • consider a design that enables an external reference clock like the Ref 10, Cybershaft et al.
      • My shallow understanding of clock design suggests that this means a frequency synthesizer approach to internal clocks, rather than fixed frequency clocks
      • However, perhaps there are other ways to do this - I don't know
    • Bottom line, I would love to see components that both accept external reference clocks, and apply this reference to both word and system clocks. 
  2. provide the ability to override the internal PSU with an external DC supply
  3. Imagine an end to end chain that could be natively (i.e. without mods) clocked by a reference clock, and powered by the best PSUs

Let me comment on a few things, specifically.

 

5 hours ago, flkin said:

Rest of my system:
Vinnie Rossi DAC 2.0 --> Vinnie Rossi DHT preamp (w/Takatsuki TA-300B tubes) --> YBA Passion 1000 mono blocks --> Wilson Watt Puppy 6 with the WP7 woofers 

 

I noticed you never tried running USB direct from the tX-USBultra to the DAC 2.0? Is there a reason? Or did I just miss it in the write up? Is the S/PDIF input of the DAC 2.0 known to be much better than USB?

 

I say this because I learned from um, a friend, that he at one point tried the MC-3+ USB between his tX-USBultra and his Blu2/DAVE, all clocked by the Ref 10, and he found that the MC-3+ USB actually detracted from the SQ. Of course, different DAC, and his MC-3+ was not modded for LPS. Anyway, I was just curious. This is the same reason I asked @Confused to try going direct to his Devialet.

 

5 hours ago, flkin said:

1. Cybershaft OP14 vs. Mutec Ref.10
 

That said, it’s not as if the Cybershaft OP14 is a slouch, it’s already very good and the best my system had ever been prior to listening to the Ref.10. The improvement over the clock in the tX-USBultra is substantial and well worth the upgrade. It’s just that the Mutec Ref10 provides even more of a ‘clock’ effect. A little bit better in all aspects. In addition to lower a phase noise in the Ref.10, I wonder if that has to do with their use of a square wave form instead of the sine wave in the OP14? 

 

Well, this is timely, as @limniscate are going to do the Ref 10 vs. OP-14 shootout at my place in a few days. Now I really look forward to this comparo!

 

5 hours ago, flkin said:

6. Habst 5N cryo silver 75ohm cable vs. Pasternack PE33403-36, RG216 75ohm cable 
The Habst is far better. With the Pasternak the sound becomes unfocused, the bass and lower mids a smeared blob. The difference was almost as large as not using a clock. So the clock BNC cable matters - to the extent that an external clock is basically pointless without a good cable.  So much so that I am considering seeing if Habst can make up a 50ohm cable for my Cybershaft.

 

Sigh, I was afraid of this! Please let me know what you learn from Habst about the 50 Ω cable. Since the Cybershaft has just the one BNC, I am not sure how the separate ground concept is possible.

 

5 hours ago, flkin said:

And so after our meet, I can say I've reconfirmed some of my earlier thoughts about equipment contributions but perhaps reordered their position in the significance table. To summarise our findings :

 

  • Clocks and clock cables - they matter greatly perhaps the most
  • USB cleaners, more than one in series works and significantly
  • Much can be done to improve the Source. The renderer part more so than the server part
  • The Macbook Pro makes is a great Roon server when bridged and ethernet output cleaned
  • But the best sound is to have an excellent source and further re-clock it and clean the output multiple times.

 

As I've pointed out in a recent post, I think the lines between "server" and "renderer" are quite blurry, and best not to fixate on function. See: https://www.computeraudiophile.com/forums/topic/38110-innuos-zenith-se-mkii/?do=findComment&comment=786922

 

IMO, the quality of the device that starts the USB chain seems to be of extreme importance. Getting the clocking, PSU, and overall HW design is critical. I think looking forward, it will be nice to work towards filling in the obvious information gaps:

  1. Does the trifecta approach regain ascendancy when powered by SR-7 grade PSU?
  2. How does the Antipodes DX3/Zenith SE compare to bespoke custom sCLK-ed servers like @romaz, @ElviaCaprice, and @Johnseye's? Apologies if I missed others.

 

5 hours ago, flkin said:

That’s it, hope this is interesting reading for all. :D


It certainly was interesting reading. Thanks again for taking the time!

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1 hour ago, austinpop said:

I noticed you never tried running USB direct from the tX-USBultra to the DAC 2.0? Is there a reason? Or did I just miss it in the write up? Is the S/PDIF input of the DAC 2.0 known to be much better than USB?

Here is the explanation.

 

Next up a pretty obvious comparison was to use the Antipodes by itself to my Vinnie Rossi DAC 2.0. Unfortunately we couldn’t get the Antipodes to recognise the DAC 2.0 and eventually we tried passing the Antipodes through the MC3+ (Ref10 reclocked with Habst cable) and using a coaxial (Digiflex Gold II) to the DAC2.0 and this worked fine. So the rest of our comparison tests had to pass through the MC3+.

Pareto Audio AMD 7700 Server --> Berkeley Alpha USB --> Jeff Rowland Aeris --> Jeff Rowland 625 S2 --> Focal Utopia 3 Diablos with 2 x Focal Electra SW 1000 BE subs

 

i7-6700K/Windows 10  --> EVGA Nu Audio Card --> Focal CMS50's 

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4 hours ago, seeteeyou said:

 

 

When the opening of DC plug (i.e. the diameter) is 8.5 mm, the area should be 56.75 mm²

 

https://www.sensorsone.com/circle-diameter-to-area-calculator/

 

Let's say we just wanna go totally nuts and we're giving 6 AWG a try. The diameter of each wire is 4.11 mm while the area is 13.3 mm² accordingly to this link

 

https://www.engineeringtoolbox.com/awg-wire-gauge-d_731.html

 

Could we actually fit two pieces of 6 AWG wires inside a modified Elec plug? If so, could those unusually thick wires be super difficult to solder?

 

http://www.elecaudio.com/en/hi-fi-connectors/286-elecaudio-dc-21g-jack-dc-connector-5525mm-gold-plated.html

https://www.audiophonics.fr/en/connecteurs-jack/elecaudio-dc-21g-gold-plated-connector-jack-dc-55-21mm-p-9822.html
https://www.computeraudiophile.com/forums/topic/31554-diy-dc-power-cables/?page=8&tab=comments#comment-658536

 

 

 

Pure sliver hookup wires seem to stop at 22 AWG (£33/m) for solid and 20AWG (£56/m) for multi-strand (both Neotech). 1 metre will do to make the 50cm lead I want to make.

 

Are you suggesting multiple runs?

 

I'm thinking to start by trying the 22 AWG solid core neotech, it should be manageable to solder etc too.

 

A little more feeback on my thinking would be cool.

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