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A novel way to massively improve the SQ of computer audio streaming


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Most important: please realize this thread is about bleeding edge experimentation and discovery. No one has The Answer™. If you are not into tweaking, just know that you can have a musically satisfying system without doing any of the nutty things we do here.

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8 hours ago, Cornan said:

I thought I would try the dual Supra DAC cables with a slightly different approach today. I constructed two cables with the drain wires from each cable connected to each other in a full loop as before, but instead of insulating the semi-conductive nylon shield I added copper tape to the conductive side of the nylon shield plus drain wire to the copper tape which in reality would conduct both the shields and the drain wire in a full loop in the shot gun construction. Sounded really aquard and life less. Boomy! I changed one cable back to just the drain wires in a loop and insulated the nylon shields with electrical tape so only the drain wire are in a full loop between the cables and not the nylon shield. Considerably better, so I changed back the other cable as well. Aaaah, music air injected with more details and less boomy bass. Less tense. A relief! 

It seems to me that most of the shielding should really protect -Ve from +Ve and vice verca. Not as much from airborn RFI/EMI. A drain wire loop with separated and isolated semi-conductive shields is what create magic here.

These two cables is connected between the LPS-1.2 and feeder supply (15cm) and between LPS-1.2 and Aqvox switch-8 (8cm). Both with Kemet A750 at the receiving end.

You need to start building these experimental cables and devices in mass quantities and try selling them on Superphonica!! You can become the new and improved Ghent ?

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On 7/29/2018 at 2:49 AM, elan120 said:

After making few of the Gotham cables to replace the ones in my system, I want to shout out to @lmitche a BIG THANKS for sharing such a great idea.  Meanwhile, since I don't remember seeing detailed instructions on how it is done, I thought perhaps I should share how I build mine in hope of passing on the benefits I received from this great idea to people want to try DIY this cable.

 

1.  Measure and strip the first isolation layer.  Allow approximate 1/8" (3mm) of spacing between positive soldering tab and back of barrel connector,

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2.  First isolation layer stripped, expose top shield layer.

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3.  Pull back top shield layer, expose first inner isolation layer.

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4.  Pull back first inner isolation layer, expose quad cable inside.

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5.  Cut off cotton wires.

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6.  Cut off quad cable isolation layer.

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7.  All 4 quad cable isolation layer cut off and inner shield layer pulled back.

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8.  Stripped all 4 cable tips, prepare for soldering.  Note, negative leads (white) are stripped 2x of positive leads (pink).

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9.  Twist both positive (pink) and negative (white) leads together and tin them with solder.

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10  Twist both positive and negative wires (optional).

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11.  Cut negative lead to proper length to fit connector.

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12.  Tin connector.

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13.  Insert connector shell first and then solder both positive and negative leads.

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14.  Screw on connector shell.

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15.  Measure and cut a piece of heat shrink tubing to cover the connector shell shoulder and the rest of quad cable.

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16.  Heat shrink tubing installed.

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17.  Move all shield wires forward, cut to proper length, and measure connectivity between shield and barrel connector body to make sure no electrical contact.

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18.  Measure connectivity between positive and negative on barrel connector to make sure no electrical contact.

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20.  Cut a piece of heat shrink tubing to cover shield cables.

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21.  Heat shrink tubing installed.

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22.  Cut final heat shrink tubing to cover both barrel connector shoulder and Gotham cable outer isolation layer.

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23.  Heat shrink tubing installed.

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24.  Install needed connector spacers.  You are now done on this side, go work on the other side, use the new cable in your system, and don't forgot to let us know what you think about this new cable.

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Does anyone know if the new Ghent Gotham DC cable uses the same basic technique (for people like me that lack soldering skills) ? 

If Ghent is doing the same as @Elan120 shows hownto DYI, that’s probably the best choice for me (unless I could make the same using screw down DC connectors? )

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12 hours ago, austinpop said:

 

Many thanks to Blake for sending me his Ghent Gotham JSSG 360 cable. It arrived yesterday, and I let it settle in to my system for a few hours, between my LPS-1.2 and TLS OCXCO switch.

 

I did some quick comparisons last night between it and my reference - JSSG 360'd Audio Sensibility 7N UPOCC silver cable. Please note - since this was on my switch, I used Tidal streamed music to do the comparison.

 

Bottom line - to my ears, the Audio Sensibility was still a fair bit better. The Gotham cable is very nice, but the richness, density, and image size with the Audio Sensibility is something else.

 

There are 2 other factors that could be affecting this. First, Blake's Ghent cable is 1m long, while my AS cable is only 0.3m. Second, I don't know if the Gotham has had any burn in at all. @Blake?

 

I'll let the Ghent Gotham cable burn in for the next couple days, and retry the test. Stay tuned.

I think Ghent is also now offering a Silver starquad cable with JSSG 360, would that potentially be a better choice vs. the Ghent Gotham JSSG 360? I’m thinking of ordering a few of one of these types from Ghent. Also my current “batch” of Ghent Canare 4S6 / Oyiade JSSG (not 360) I have are all between 1 meter and 3 meters in length, when I ordered all of these last year, I wasn’t aware of the benefits of shorter DC Cable length, so I’m assuming regardless of which type I buy I should also focus on shortest lengths possible for all DC Cables? 

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  • 6 months later...
On 10/21/2020 at 2:51 PM, kennyb123 said:

 

Shunyata's V14 Digital might be better in this application.  The V14D includes a different filter that comes from their medical division.  It's intended for "digital only" components (no analog stage).  I was able to compare the V14D to an NR V12 on the Farad Super3 powering my M-Scaler.  There was a noticeable reduction in the noise floor.  I'm using a V14D on the Farad Super3 powering my EtherRegen as well.  The V14D is priced at $250 and in my system it punches above its weight.  

 

Any idea how the new Shunyata’s compare to the older ones? I have several V10’s (mostly for power conditioners and power supplies) and then a bunch of the Ztron Delta’s on the rest of my gear except a Venom Digital (I believe it’s 12AWG) on my Aurrender Streamer. I was going to upgrade to the Delta NR, but I missed out and seems they’re all sold out. I was contemplating one of the new V10NR’s as a replacement for my Aurender, but based on what I’m reading, seems like you wouldn’t recommend that? 

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1 hour ago, kennyb123 said:


Your best bet would be to seek advice at the Shunyata forums at either AudioAficionado or AudioShark.  The Shunyata owners there really know their stuff.  Also Caelin from Shunyata is active on both those forums.


Here’s a great post from Caelin on the current state of things.  Below is what he had to say about power cords for “digital only” components.  It should be noted that it is most certainly true that more expensive cords may give you better results than their V14 Digital with some components.  The Taiko Extreme is a great example of a “digital only” product that benefits from a far better power cord.  I’m not sure though when it makes sense to go beyond the V14 Digital.  I’m still powering my Innuos Zenith with an Alpha HC.  

 

“Although you can spend more money on one of our more expensive NR power cords, I recommend the Venom V14 Digital (US$250) for these type of devices. There are several people that have done the comparisons and they usually agree with my perspective on this. The Venom V14 Digital has a different NR filter than the Venom NR V12/V10 which are suited to audio components. The V14 Digital filter has a greater ability to reduce "impulse noise" which is typical from SMPSs that are commonly used in computers, monitors and ethernet switches. If you have upgraded your component's power supply with a linear power supply then using one of our more expensive NR power cords "may" give you better performance. But in my opinion, the V14 Digital is more than capable of giving you a big leap in performance. Save your power cable budget for the pre-amplifier, amplifier or DAC.”

 

Thanks for this information! My Aurender server has a built in Linear Power supply and my DAC has an external Vinni Rossi Supercapacitor based power supply, so based on what you provided, it seems I would benefit from a higher level Shunyata vs. the Venom Digital, which seems is designed more so towards SMPS. 

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43 minutes ago, kennyb123 said:


I think it depends on a number of factors.  The system’s noise floor and how much the component itself is impacting this matter a lot.  Even with the use of a Denali V1, there was a noticeable reduction of noise floor by swapping a V14D for a V10NR on the Farad Super3 (also a Supercapacitor based supply) powering my Chord HMS.  Their noise reduction power cords actually filter what’s coming out of the component, so it’s more of a case of every component benefitting - as if the power conditioner got a helping hand.  The HMS is known to generate noise so I guess it shouldn’t have come as a surprise that this noise was being passed down through the Super3.

 

When it came to the Super3 powering my EtherRegen, the V14D didn’t bring about an obvious reduction in noise floor.  It was more of a case of greater naturalness emerging.  That could have been a result of it bringing me to a point where all the power cords connected to my Denali including some form of Shunyata noise reduction technology.  
 

Now might I improve things with far better power cords for the HMS and ER?  Maybe.  But I am taking Caelin’s advice to “save [my] power cable budget for the pre-amplifier, amplifier or DAC.”  The new NR V2 cords offer huge improvements to components that include analog stages.  My amp will get some of that power cord love next year.  Everything matters in this hobby but some things matter a lot more, so I think we have to figure out how best to balance this within our budget constraints.

Agreed! 
I do have the original 12AWG version of the Venom Digital NR cable currently connected to my Aurender, so I suspect it’s providing me with a similar experience as to what I would have with the V14 NR? 
I think I’ll experiment and try and swap it with the Ztron Alpha Shunyata cable I have in the Rossi Supercapacitor PS powering my Mytek DAC to see where the Digital NR may be more beneficial. 
When I bought these cables a few years ago from Music Direct, they told me the Digital NR would be most beneficial for my Aurender since it’s a digital source, whereas the Mytek Brooklyn DAC+ was more so analog since it was converting digital and outputting analog, but that logic has never fully made complete sense to me:) 

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On 10/25/2020 at 2:31 PM, kennyb123 said:


I think you are in a good place with the original Venom Digital on your Aurender.  The Ztron Alpha is likewise a good choice with the Mytek/Rossi.  When there is an analog stage DTCD matters more than noise reduction.  The Alpha is better than the Venom in that area.  Which flavor of the Alpha is it?  There were 3:  HC, Digital, Analog.  
 

Music Direct gave you good advice.  DTCD is dynamic transient current delivery.  This is essentially the ability of the power cord to deliver current to meet transient demands.  This quality improves as you move up their lineup.  Their current series now feature XC and NR versions at each level.  The XC has no noise reduction.  It gives the best DTCD at its price point but it is intended for powering conditioners.  NR is for components.  That V14 Digital is the odd duck of the lineup.  I believe it is roughly equivalent to the CIS NR cord shown here.  This is Shunyata’s medical division.

 

 

Thanks for the confirmation and the information! I have all Analog versions of Shunyata cables except for the 12AWG Venom Digital on my Aurrender and the HC versions going into my two power conditioners from wall. 
I’ll try one of the new NR versions for something at some point, although it doesn’t seem like I need to rush into an upgrade for the moment. 
I suspect the V14 NR would be good for the Linear power supply I use to power my Amazon Fire TV box, I just have an original Venom that I’m using for that. 
 

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