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Powered speakers ON/OFF switching


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Hello,

I have powered speakers JBL LSR 305 and I am little bit tired of powering them every day with the back side switches. Is it safe to plug them in one wireless controlled extension power cord, leave the switch on the speakers "on" and turn them "on/off" with the power cord? And what about other devices like DAC and external volume controller? Ideally I want to leave everything switched on (on devices) and turn it ON and OFF only with one switch on the power cord. Is it possible or can I damage some stuff? Thanks.

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It is of course possible you could damage something. Likelihood increases when you have multiple devices set up as such. I would safely say that using an extension cord adds another level of distrust. To be legally sold those speakers need to have a number of safeguards built in to deal with a sudden spike or loss of power and shut down safely otherwise. Subvert this at your own risk.

 

Cheap computer speakers will die if left on interminably or used heavily for long periods of time. Professional monitors are designed to stand up to both rigors when intelligently used. A few consumer models even go so far as to introduce a standby mode that cuts power to the amp until a signal is received. The safe bet is to reach around the back at the end of the night or not leave them on for more than a second day of use. Without any signal going through bad things can start to happen as easily as from constantly cycling power.

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I had two Alesis M1 Active 520s and they were on since I first plugged them in sometime in February of 2011 (just checked my receipt), up to about a month ago when I had to find them a new home due to an office remodel. I never had an issue with heat, or sound quality. I had them plugged into a quality surge protector, it had a battery backup and regulated the power going into them.

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Save for moving house, decorating, servicing/upgrades my active ATC speakers have been left switched on for 20 years.

Source:

*Aurender N100 (no internal disk : LAN optically isolated via FMC with *LPS) > DIY 5cm USB link (5v rail removed / ground lift switch - split for *LPS) > Intona Industrial (injected *LPS / internally shielded with copper tape) > DIY 5cm USB link (5v rail removed / ground lift switch) > W4S Recovery (*LPS) > DIY 2cm USB adaptor (5v rail removed / ground lift switch) > *Auralic VEGA (EXACT : balanced)

 

Control:

*Jeff Rowland CAPRI S2 (balanced)

 

Playback:

2 x Revel B15a subs (balanced) > ATC SCM 50 ASL (balanced - 80Hz HPF from subs)

 

Misc:

*Via Power Inspired AG1500 AC Regenerator

LPS: 3 x Swagman Lab Audiophile Signature Edition (W4S, Intona & FMC)

Storage: QNAP TS-253Pro 2x 3Tb, 8Gb RAM

Cables: DIY heavy gauge solid silver (balanced)

Mains: dedicated distribution board with 5 x 2 socket ring mains, all mains cables: Mark Grant Black Series DSP 2.5 Dual Screen

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Capacitors, like humans, have a finite lifetime.

I don't think that leaving electronic equipment permanently on is a very good idea.

 

R

"Science draws the wave, poetry fills it with water" Teixeira de Pascoaes

 

HQPlayer Desktop / Mac mini → Intona 7054 → RME ADI-2 DAC FS (DSD256)

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Problem is, every system I've ever owned has taken at least a full month of being switched on before sounding optimal.

 

For that reason it's only ever switched off if there is no alternative to doing so.

 

Some also believe that continual power up/down causes more damage than constant on (I don't know either way, it is purely on sonics I keep it all powered up).

 

 

Capacitors, like humans, have a finite lifetime.

I don't think that leaving electronic equipment permanently on is a very good idea.

 

R

Source:

*Aurender N100 (no internal disk : LAN optically isolated via FMC with *LPS) > DIY 5cm USB link (5v rail removed / ground lift switch - split for *LPS) > Intona Industrial (injected *LPS / internally shielded with copper tape) > DIY 5cm USB link (5v rail removed / ground lift switch) > W4S Recovery (*LPS) > DIY 2cm USB adaptor (5v rail removed / ground lift switch) > *Auralic VEGA (EXACT : balanced)

 

Control:

*Jeff Rowland CAPRI S2 (balanced)

 

Playback:

2 x Revel B15a subs (balanced) > ATC SCM 50 ASL (balanced - 80Hz HPF from subs)

 

Misc:

*Via Power Inspired AG1500 AC Regenerator

LPS: 3 x Swagman Lab Audiophile Signature Edition (W4S, Intona & FMC)

Storage: QNAP TS-253Pro 2x 3Tb, 8Gb RAM

Cables: DIY heavy gauge solid silver (balanced)

Mains: dedicated distribution board with 5 x 2 socket ring mains, all mains cables: Mark Grant Black Series DSP 2.5 Dual Screen

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Some also believe that continual power up/down causes more damage than constant on.

 

I believe this to be true. Especially with electronics that heat up when they are turned on. Things expand when they heat up, even if it's a very tiny amount. So turning things on and off produces a cycle of hot and cold which in my opinion would cause things to fail sooner. Of course there are exceptions to this, but I don't think things with complex soldered components fall into the exception, where something like a light bulb would.

 

I haven't tested this theory personally, but it was explained to me a long time ago and it made sense. I could be wrong, but I base my decisions on logic using the information that I have. If someone can pose a logical argument to this, in terms that a layman can understand or prove (like I can with heat and expansion), I would change my mind.

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Capacitors, like humans, have a finite lifetime.

 

Yes, caps do have a rather low quoted life span between 1,000 and 10,000 hours where they are said to be good (which usually means retaining 80% of it's rated capacitance), but those are at max temp and at the limits of their ratings.

 

There are some equations you can use to calculate the actual life span of a cap in your implementation, and in most cases I've seen, they are in excess of 15 years.

 

This also varies by the type of cap. Here is a link to a PDF if you want more details on one specific type: https://www.illinoiscapacitor.com/pdf/Papers/Life%20expectancy%20of%20Aluminum%20electrolytic%20capacitors.pdf

 

On the other hand, does it use a lot of power when not playing? If so, your wallet might benefit from turning it off. Some people have also claimed that the heat cycle doesn't make a difference, which might also be true.

 

I don't know if there is a correct answer to this. Perhaps base it on the convenience of turning them on an off.

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