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Using rack mounted power boards for general hi-fi


asdf1000
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Hi all,

 

I asked this question deep in one of the Uptone threads but wanted to ask the wider CA community.

Has had experience with using rack power distribution boards similar to the linked below, as a simple powerboard for Hi-Fi gear , on the ground and out of sight, behind the Hi-Fi furniture. In this particular case I'm not interested in surge protection or filtering.

https://www.racklink.com.au/products/5190dd8da59383ded5ce3aef

These (and other similar) appear well built. Description here:

 

  • Locally Assembled - Made in Australia & New Zealand to exacting standards.
  • Built to Last - Made of 1.2mm mild steel. Earth is secured internally with ring terminals and lock-washers. All raw components and powder coats are ROHS compliant
  • Reliable - Individually hand-wired outlets.
  • Professional in Look & Feel - Powder coated in ripple black finish means they get fewer scratches & finger prints. High density of IEC outlets means you fit more in your space without clutter.

Apart from the fact they don't look like fancy Hi-Fi powerboards, are there any issues with using them in a typical Hi-Fi setting?

 

The back of these is closed right? It's not an open back?

 

While I think they'll work fine, I wanted to ask if anyone is actually using these type of power distribution boards for their Hi-Fi gear. If not, what would be the reasons to not use them (apart from the obvious needed for surge protection and filtering if you need it etc)

 

The one linked above is just an example but happy to discuss these rack power boards in the general sense

 

 

Many thanks in advance

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I used a black 8 way one of these metal IEC commercial mains distribution blocks and removed the neon light, it effectively becomes a configurable single fused star earth/hydra (for circa £80):

 

Multi-coloured PDU with C13 sockets

Source:

*Aurender N100 (no internal disk : LAN optically isolated via FMC with *LPS) > DIY 5cm USB link (5v rail removed / ground lift switch - split for *LPS) > Intona Industrial (injected *LPS / internally shielded with copper tape) > DIY 5cm USB link (5v rail removed / ground lift switch) > W4S Recovery (*LPS) > DIY 2cm USB adaptor (5v rail removed / ground lift switch) > *Auralic VEGA (EXACT : balanced)

 

Control:

*Jeff Rowland CAPRI S2 (balanced)

 

Playback:

2 x Revel B15a subs (balanced) > ATC SCM 50 ASL (balanced - 80Hz HPF from subs)

 

Misc:

*Via Power Inspired AG1500 AC Regenerator

LPS: 3 x Swagman Lab Audiophile Signature Edition (W4S, Intona & FMC)

Storage: QNAP TS-253Pro 2x 3Tb, 8Gb RAM

Cables: DIY heavy gauge solid silver (balanced)

Mains: dedicated distribution board with 5 x 2 socket ring mains, all mains cables: Mark Grant Black Series DSP 2.5 Dual Screen

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Nice! This would work well for me for me too, if I could get it with Australian outlets.

 

2m "Kettle Plug" Extension Cord Cable 240V Mains Power Lead IEC Male to Female | eBay

 

IEC C13 To C14 M-F Mains Extension Cable 1m | eBay

 

How a Digital Audio file sounds, or a Digital Video file looks, is governed to a large extent by the Power Supply area. All that Identical Checksums gives is the possibility of REGENERATING the file to close to that of the original file.

PROFILE UPDATED 13-11-2020

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Agree, mine are double shielded.

 

Are the Aussie plugs fused? If so it will probably sound better if you change the Aussie plug end for IECs, thus removing another layer of unnecessary fuses.

 

Martin Kaiser IEC Connector Audio Grade

 

... other people sell them too.

 

 

Nice! This would work well for me for me too, if I could get it with Australian outlets.

Source:

*Aurender N100 (no internal disk : LAN optically isolated via FMC with *LPS) > DIY 5cm USB link (5v rail removed / ground lift switch - split for *LPS) > Intona Industrial (injected *LPS / internally shielded with copper tape) > DIY 5cm USB link (5v rail removed / ground lift switch) > W4S Recovery (*LPS) > DIY 2cm USB adaptor (5v rail removed / ground lift switch) > *Auralic VEGA (EXACT : balanced)

 

Control:

*Jeff Rowland CAPRI S2 (balanced)

 

Playback:

2 x Revel B15a subs (balanced) > ATC SCM 50 ASL (balanced - 80Hz HPF from subs)

 

Misc:

*Via Power Inspired AG1500 AC Regenerator

LPS: 3 x Swagman Lab Audiophile Signature Edition (W4S, Intona & FMC)

Storage: QNAP TS-253Pro 2x 3Tb, 8Gb RAM

Cables: DIY heavy gauge solid silver (balanced)

Mains: dedicated distribution board with 5 x 2 socket ring mains, all mains cables: Mark Grant Black Series DSP 2.5 Dual Screen

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Agree, mine are double shielded.

 

Are the Aussie plugs fused? If so it will probably sound better if you change the Aussie plug end for IECs, thus removing another layer of unnecessary fuses.

 

Martin Kaiser IEC Connector Audio Grade

 

... other people sell them too.

Good points. Will look into this

 

Sent from my Blackberry DTEK50 using Tapatalk

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Agree, mine are double shielded.

 

Are the Aussie plugs fused? If so it will probably sound better if you change the Aussie plug end for IECs, thus removing another layer of unnecessary fuses.

 

Martin Kaiser IEC Connector Audio Grade

 

... other people sell them too.

 

Aussie plugs aren't fused as we use a different internal mains distribution method.

 

How a Digital Audio file sounds, or a Digital Video file looks, is governed to a large extent by the Power Supply area. All that Identical Checksums gives is the possibility of REGENERATING the file to close to that of the original file.

PROFILE UPDATED 13-11-2020

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Thanks Alex, didnt think so but you saved me an email to Analysis Plus

 

Sent from my Blackberry DTEK50 using Tapatalk

 

BTW, often it is desirable to have shorter mains leads. Altronics (in Melbourne too) also has similar M to F IEC leads in 7.5A .75M long.

 

P8422 - Powertran 0.75m IEC C13 - C14 (Male - Fem.) 7.5A Black Appliance Mains Lead - Altronics

 

How a Digital Audio file sounds, or a Digital Video file looks, is governed to a large extent by the Power Supply area. All that Identical Checksums gives is the possibility of REGENERATING the file to close to that of the original file.

PROFILE UPDATED 13-11-2020

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Nice! This would work well for me for me too, if I could get it with Australian outlets.

 

Can you get Panamax? They make one for about the same price. The one you reference should work OK, but the Panamax looks like they give you a bit more for the money.

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this one has a circuit breaker: http://www.panamax.com/Products/Other/VT-EXT.php#tab_benefits

 

How would the Panapax be better than the RackLink I referenced? I'll definitely look into it

 

I'll use a portable RCD upstream so I'm looking for a board with no circuit breaker, no switch, no surge protection etc

 

 

 

Sent from my Blackberry DTEK50 using Tapatalk

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this one has a circuit breaker: VT-EXT | Other | Products | Panamax.com

 

How would the Panapax be better than the RackLink I referenced? I'll definitely look into it

 

I'll use a portable RCD upstream so I'm looking for a board with no circuit breaker, no switch, no surge protection etc

 

 

 

Sent from my Blackberry DTEK50 using Tapatalk

 

When you said that you didn't want all the extra features, I assumed it was a price issue. I didn't realize it was a requirement the features were to be left out. There's not too many products like what you're asking for. Everybody usually wants the stuff that you can't have. If you want better quality, DYI may be a good option. If you can find an empty rack mount case, or even a cheap one where you can remove all of the internals, you can put some high quality outlets, like Furutech, in the box, and wire it up by hand. As long as you can get the right case, it should be easy to do.

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When you said that you didn't want all the extra features, I assumed it was a price issue. I didn't realize it was a requirement the features were to be left out. There's not too many products like what you're asking for. Everybody usually wants the stuff that you can't have. If you want better quality, DYI may be a good option. If you can find an empty rack mount case, or even a cheap one where you can remove all of the internals, you can put some high quality outlets, like Furutech, in the box, and wire it up by hand. As long as you can get the right case, it should be easy to do.

 

I already have a PS Audio Dectet power conditioner. I'm looking to strip back all the filtering/conditioning/surge protection etc. But I want something well built.

 

Yeh I've found out the past week there aren't many that make bare bones power strips. They're usual custom made as you say. Getting them with Australian outlets seems to be the hardest issue.

 

I've sent emails to some of the custom makers recommended by a couple others on this forum, so will wait to hear back from them this week. Otherwise it's the DIY option as you say.

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