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Discussion of AC mains isolation transformers


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On 5/27/2018 at 4:29 PM, Bdht said:

I want to add a topaz isolation transformer to the system

a] How big of a transformer?

b] How will you wire the transformer?

c] What are the current loads of all your components?

d] What is your location or country?

e] What type of interconnects do your components have? Analog RCA or XLR or digital.

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8 hours ago, Speedskater said:

a] How big of a transformer?

b] How will you wire the transformer?

c] What are the current loads of all your components?

d] What is your location or country?

e] What type of interconnects do your components have? Analog RCA or XLR or digital.

Heh thx, I guess I should list whole system first:

Source: windows computer evga p1200 p2 psu
Dac: audio gd nfb7, input is amenero with usb isolator
Using a supra usb cable with uptone amber regen, ifi 9v, and uspcb, but will have an uptone iso regen with lps 1.2 in a couple weeks
Headamp: audio gd nfb1amp
Currently just using monoprice premier xlr cables and emotiva xbal splitters
And either 12awg or 14awg standard tripplite power cables and a ge surge strip.

The shaker system is a monoprice dual 31 band graphic equalizer, art310 crossover, little kinter stereo amp.  Xlr from the splitters to the eq, xlr from the eq to the crossover, and xlr to rca from the crossover to the small amp.

Also on the same outlet but not used at the same time is a denon x4200w, audiosource amp100vs, bic v1220.

A]250va for just the dac and smp; 500va for the dac amp and shaker system; could even do 2.4kva for everything there but i dont know if thats a great idea.

B] i suppose 1:1 unbalanced im not sure on that

C]current loads cant be that high the dac is highest listed at 50w

D]florida usa

E]monoprice premier xlr and supra usb currently but would like to starquad jssg everything including ac cables if its recommended.

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On ‎5‎/‎18‎/‎2018 at 3:10 AM, Abtr said:

1.  If you look at the picture, there is that metal tab that hangs down across the hole for the wire.   It made it very difficult to insert a wire.

This also happens with much smaller screw terminal blocks such as those used on PCBs

 Try undoing the screw fully, then gently insert the probe of a DMM lead into the terminal block to lift up the metal tab again, and then insert the wire again.

 

How a Digital Audio file sounds, or a Digital Video file looks, is governed to a large extent by the Power Supply area. All that Identical Checksums gives is the possibility of REGENERATING the file to close to that of the original file.

PROFILE UPDATED 13-11-2020

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 I have the IT running balanced, non-floating. Having never powered equipment balanced with power coming out of both the hot and neutral prongs, I was a little nervous.  But everything worked and nothing blew up. 

 Straight out of the box, with everything cold, I can say that the base sounded bigger, for lack of a better description and that the  attacks were quicker. 

 To describe why I thought that the attacks were quicker, listening to Steely Dan, Asia, when they were playing the keyboard I could hear in the cords when one finger would hit separate from another, that I had never noticed before 

 With my older solid-state Conrad Johnson preamp, once things warmed up it sounded great everything sounded Fuller. 

 Because I had all new receptacles and star quad wire I thought that I would let things burn in for about a week before I put my rogue preamp back into the system.  But I could not wait. 

 So, the balanced IT project was a success and worth the effort.  I have attached two pictures one is the IT on the shelf in the basement and the other is the new three gang power strip I made, not much to look at. 

 It is funny that you mention using a separately derived system, and a new electrode. When you look at the picture of the IT on the shelf you notice three wires running past it. Those are (3) 10 gauge wires but I have Sodered to (3) 6 gauge wires that go out to  A new 10 foot copper ground  electrode.   I had advice from a "grounding expert "  that told me I should lift all of my grounds and use this new ground. But I could not in all good conscience do it. I felt I still needed, from the preamp, one good ground back to the electrical panel for safety.  After that, I read that if you have more than one ground rod they need to be bonded together otherwise if a lightning strike happens in your vicinity it could charge both rods and then the electrical current, potential, would  materialize in the middle i.e. your equipment rack. So I disconnected the ground from where I was trying to use it to pick up any extra static electricity and tucked it off to the side.  I was waiting to finish the I T experiment before looking for any guidance on how to use the second ground electrode. 

 The IT was a success, but it did not cure my Hum issue. I hooked the rogue RP-1 preamp up,  plugged it into the same receptacle as the Conrad Johnson solid-state amp and immediately got the loud hum.  Even with the pre-amp off. I did an experiment where I left the amp on and I unplugged the preamp, the hum went away, as soon as I plug the preamp back into the system I get a loud  hum that I can hear from my listening position.  It does not get louder when I turn up the volume. I can hear the hum when there are quiet passages in the music. I put the cheater plug on the preamp,  I couldn't take it. 

 With  The cheater plug on the amp and The RP-1 preamp, the music was wonderful. The system feels like there is more of everything. With my digital volume control knob,  I usually do my critical listening with the display at 50. This time it felt like I was getting the same sound pressure levels, although I did not measure them, at 40. The base went deeper with more control, the attacks were still quicker,  there was sizzle on the symbols that wasn't there before.  It is hard to say how much better the RP one sounds than the Conrad Johnson, because I was not able to measure sound pressure levels, but  The CJ sounded better than I would have anticipated. 

 I believe this incompatibility issue between the CJ and the rogue is holding back the RP-1. Even though it sounds great, it's killing me.  I am still ordering the DC block her from ATL, but I doubt it will have any affect on this issue. 

 Speaking of killing me, I got more information on the Hubble GFR 5362SG, two pole GFI. It is class a and will  disconnect with between 4 to 6 mA. 

 

 So as long as I'm spilling my guts about this issue, I have one other issue that I'm trying to solve that I believe are also has to do with grounding.  As soon as I put the iso-regen into my system I started to get dropouts.  Alex told me that this happens with the Iso-regen when a static charge builds up in it and it drops.  I have tried all kinds of things to alleviate some sort of a static charge at the Isoregen . I am powering it with an LPS-1 which is powered with the wall wart  with the negative grounded.  I have the Shunyata USB cable.  My computer is a caps pipeline,  with the SOTM USB card. powered by a 300 W HD Plex AXT linear power supply, (made for me by Andrew of small green computer)( The first HD Plex I got was returned by Andrew because he didn't like the way measured so I have one of the corrected LPS ) every component in my computer gets separate linear power including the SOTM card.  I have tried grounding the Iso-regen from different places. I have tried using the standalone ground electrode to  drain any static from the USB.  I've tried tapeing the USB cable connectors to reduce the ground.  None of these worked. With the "ISO" on I would get dropouts.  I realized that there was no grounding on the pipeline, it's only connection to power,  is the HD Plex and all those wires. So I reached out to Andrew and  Larry because when I opened up the HD Plex I can see that there is a connector coming off of the ground terminal inside that is not being used and it has connectivity to the ground pin. I ran a wire from that internal terminal in the HD Plex to the pipeline and it opened up the sound. I thought wow this is great, but now I get  Drop out even when I have the iso off. What the hell.  I wonder if I have bad or extra  finicky ISO-regen. Of course it happens when I have company and I'm trying to show off the system.  It happened yesterday.  My controller shows that roon is playing. but I have to turn  off the DAC and go through the power up sequence 

 I have gone on long enough. 

 May I please have your opinion 

 

 

 

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19 minutes ago, drjimwillie said:

 I have the IT running balanced, non-floating. Having never powered equipment balanced with power coming out of both the hot and neutral prongs, I was a little nervous.  But everything worked and nothing blew up. 

 Straight out of the box, with everything cold, I can say that the base sounded bigger, for lack of a better description and that the  attacks were quicker. 

 To describe why I thought that the attacks were quicker, listening to Steely Dan, Asia, when they were playing the keyboard I could hear in the cords when one finger would hit separate from another, that I had never noticed before 

 With my older solid-state Conrad Johnson preamp, once things warmed up it sounded great everything sounded Fuller. 

 Because I had all new receptacles and star quad wire I thought that I would let things burn in for about a week before I put my rogue preamp back into the system.  But I could not wait. 

 So, the balanced IT project was a success and worth the effort.  I have attached two pictures one is the IT on the shelf in the basement and the other is the new three gang power strip I made, not much to look at. 

 It is funny that you mention using a separately derived system, and a new electrode. When you look at the picture of the IT on the shelf you notice three wires running past it. Those are (3) 10 gauge wires but I have Sodered to (3) 6 gauge wires that go out to  A new 10 foot copper ground  electrode.   I had advice from a "grounding expert "  that told me I should lift all of my grounds and use this new ground. But I could not in all good conscience do it. I felt I still needed, from the preamp, one good ground back to the electrical panel for safety.  After that, I read that if you have more than one ground rod they need to be bonded together otherwise if a lightning strike happens in your vicinity it could charge both rods and then the electrical current, potential, would  materialize in the middle i.e. your equipment rack. So I disconnected the ground from where I was trying to use it to pick up any extra static electricity and tucked it off to the side.  I was waiting to finish the I T experiment before looking for any guidance on how to use the second ground electrode. 

 The IT was a success, but it did not cure my Hum issue. I hooked the rogue RP-1 preamp up,  plugged it into the same receptacle as the Conrad Johnson solid-state amp and immediately got the loud hum.  Even with the pre-amp off. I did an experiment where I left the amp on and I unplugged the preamp, the hum went away, as soon as I plug the preamp back into the system I get a loud  hum that I can hear from my listening position.  It does not get louder when I turn up the volume. I can hear the hum when there are quiet passages in the music. I put the cheater plug on the preamp,  I couldn't take it. 

 With  The cheater plug on the amp and The RP-1 preamp, the music was wonderful. The system feels like there is more of everything. With my digital volume control knob,  I usually do my critical listening with the display at 50. This time it felt like I was getting the same sound pressure levels, although I did not measure them, at 40. The base went deeper with more control, the attacks were still quicker,  there was sizzle on the symbols that wasn't there before.  It is hard to say how much better the RP one sounds than the Conrad Johnson, because I was not able to measure sound pressure levels, but  The CJ sounded better than I would have anticipated. 

 I believe this incompatibility issue between the CJ and the rogue is holding back the RP-1. Even though it sounds great, it's killing me.  I am still ordering the DC block her from ATL, but I doubt it will have any affect on this issue. 

 Speaking of killing me, I got more information on the Hubble GFR 5362SG, two pole GFI. It is class a and will  disconnect with between 4 to 6 mA. 

 

 So as long as I'm spilling my guts about this issue, I have one other issue that I'm trying to solve that I believe are also has to do with grounding.  As soon as I put the iso-regen into my system I started to get dropouts.  Alex told me that this happens with the Iso-regen when a static charge builds up in it and it drops.  I have tried all kinds of things to alleviate some sort of a static charge at the Isoregen . I am powering it with an LPS-1 which is powered with the wall wart  with the negative grounded.  I have the Shunyata USB cable.  My computer is a caps pipeline,  with the SOTM USB card. powered by a 300 W HD Plex AXT linear power supply, (made for me by Andrew of small green computer)( The first HD Plex I got was returned by Andrew because he didn't like the way measured so I have one of the corrected LPS ) every component in my computer gets separate linear power including the SOTM card.  I have tried grounding the Iso-regen from different places. I have tried using the standalone ground electrode to  drain any static from the USB.  I've tried tapeing the USB cable connectors to reduce the ground.  None of these worked. With the "ISO" on I would get dropouts.  I realized that there was no grounding on the pipeline, it's only connection to power,  is the HD Plex and all those wires. So I reached out to Andrew and  Larry because when I opened up the HD Plex I can see that there is a connector coming off of the ground terminal inside that is not being used and it has connectivity to the ground pin. I ran a wire from that internal terminal in the HD Plex to the pipeline and it opened up the sound. I thought wow this is great, but now I get  Drop out even when I have the iso off. What the hell.  I wonder if I have bad or extra  finicky ISO-regen. Of course it happens when I have company and I'm trying to show off the system.  It happened yesterday.  My controller shows that roon is playing. but I have to turn  off the DAC and go through the power up sequence 

 I have gone on long enough. 

 May I please have your opinion 

 

 

 

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IMG_5461.JPG

 

Great to hear that it sounds great balanced! ?

 

With ISO Regen I would try to connect the USB cable to another USB port at the PC or try with another USB cable to find out if the Shunyata is damaged internally.

It could ofcourse be due to the ground issue you are describing as well. Ground loop? 

The hum issue is a bummer to track down. The best thing is to disconnect everything and start to plug in piece by piece to find out when the hum starts. Analogue RCAs can hum like hell if they are damaged. ?

 

 

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22 hours ago, drjimwillie said:

Thank you. 

 It happens as soon as I plug in the RP-1 preamp, with nothing else attached to it. And it doesn't happen with the CJ preamplifier. 

 

So you are using the same speaker cables for both preamps as well? I wonder if it is the internal toroidal transformer that mechanicly hums? If it is a DC could help (no guarantee though). You could also check if the internal transformer of the RP-1 is securely fastened to the chassi (usually with a bolt through the bottom plate of the chassi). Just a few thoughts...

 

 

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Hum/Buzz II

 

I decided to troubleshoot this hum again from scratch.  To recap I have two issues that I have been working on for months.  1. I have a hum, thru the speakers, that is an interaction between my amp and my pre amp.  2. I get drop outs with my iso-regen with the “iso” switch engaged. 

 

My hope was that by adding an Ultra Isolation Transformer (MGE/Topaz clone), that cleaning up the power would help. I also built a plug strip with all outlets star-connected, from the same wire nut.  My next step is to add an ATL DC Blocker with Mundorf caps.

 

Currently I have a new issue.  I have a buzz coming from my IT.  The IT itself is silent.  The buzz is thru the speakers.

 

What can cause an Ultra Isolation Transformer to buzz thru the speakers?

 

I have been waiting for a Hubbell GFR5362SG  2 pole GFI.  In the meantime I have a generic plug as the out of the IT.

 

I am using all Belden Star-Quad cable, each conductor is 14 gauge for a combined 11 gauge.  This cable is from the wall to the IT, IT to plug/GFI, Plug to 6 outlet plug strip.  (This cable can be challenging to terminate at the generic plug, from the IT, because it is two pieces of finely stranded wire.  I had to start over a few times because of breaking strands and ended up tinning the ends of the conductors. So now I have two solid pieces to put into each plug terminal.)

 

Below are my diagnostics that lead me to believe that the new buzz is coming from the IT.  They were two diagnostic sessions.  First for the Hum; and then after the installation of the GFI, for the buzz.

 

I started at the dedicated quad at the wall, with no IT in the circuit.

No hum with only the amp plugged into the wall outlet and connected to the speakers, no interconnects attached. Correction, very low hum if I put my ear up to the speaker. 

 

Interconnect between preamp and amp, preamp not plugged in to AC - no hum. Dead quiet. 

 

When I plug the preamp into the wall/AC, I get the loud hum.

The DAC is not connected to the preamp. 

 

If I plug the amp into the Wall, and either the preamp or the DAC into the power strip/IT, with all the interconnect connected, I get hum.

 

With only the amp plugged into the plug strip/IT, absolutely dead quiet. 

 

Next, when I plug the DAC into the plug strip/IT, I get a HUM. Pre amp not plugged in.  I did not notice/test this previously.  I can hear it from my listening position, although the house is very quiet right now.  With the cheater plug on the DAC, no hum. 

 

When I plug the preamp in, the hum is much louder. No cheater plug on the amp or DAC.

 

If I put the cheater plug on the amp, everything is dead silent.

 

With the cheater plug on the preamp and the DAC unplugged, dead silent.

 

(Now there is a hum coming out of the speakers that wasn't there before I put in the two pole GFI.)

 

I have the cheater plug on the amp, when I turned off the preamp the hum is different. I turned the preamp back on and I got a pop through the speakers.

 

(End of first diagnostic session)

 

I thought the problem was the Hubble 2 pole GFI. When I plug-in the amp and preamp the cheater plug on either one, there is a buzz that I had not noticed before, but I have to put my ear up to the speaker to hear it. 

 

I removed the Hubble 2 pole GFI and replaced it with a regular receptacle. 

 

Using plug strip/IT: Now with the preamp off; the DAC off; the computer off; the cheater plug on the preamp; when I plug-in the DAC the hum is loud. Not as loud as the amp and the preamp without the cheater plug but still loud. (the tech at CJ said use a cheater plug, try it at different locations)(cheater plug not good at preamp)

 

If I put a cheater plug on the amp, now with the DAC plugged in, there is no hum with everything powered off.

 

I unplugged my power strip from the IT, plugged everything into it, then I plugged the power strip directly into the quad/wall.  No buzz.

 

This indicates that the buzz is coming from the IT.

 

I checked the voltage coming out of the balanced IT.  62.9V from either the hot or the neutral to the ground. 126.8V hot to neutral. 

 

I checked downstairs at the IT; no tension on either of the wires in or out of the IT.

 

I have the IT plugged into a dedicated quad/wall.  So, I thought I would try plugging the HDPlex ATX LPS directly into the quad/wall, without the balanced IT.  Into the quad/wall, I also plugged the Meanwell SMPS (with the internally grounded DC out) which powers the LPS-1, which powers the iso-regen. But is soon as I turned on the preamp the buzz was super loud.  Very strange.  (The internal SMPS ground modification was done for me by The One who would know best, how to do it.)

I unplugged the power supply for the LPS-1 and things quieted down. When I turn the preamp on I still have the buzz, but it is now quiet enough that I have to put my ear near the speaker to hear it. So, plugged the Meanwell/LPS-1 has an issue plugged directly into the wall, with the DAC; pre-amp; amp plugged into the IT.

 

I have a Shunyata hydra four power conditioner, so I thought I would try that instead of my six outlet plug strip that I made. It only has four outlets so I left the HDPlex ATX plugged into the wall. Same buzz. I have to put my ear near the speaker to hear it. 

 

I decided to quit for now.  I reconnected everything to the plug strip and the IT, no GFI.  I put on Jain - Makeba and the base is coming out so strong it feels like I'm being hit in the chest by 2 x 4. Amazing. I love the IT. 

 

Someplace in this process, I changed out the interconnects between the preamp in the amp; no difference.

 

So, I thought that the buzz was from the newly introduced GFI but it appears that the IT is the culprit.

 

I did not notice the buzz before the installation of the GFI.  I wonder if I damaged the star-quad cable while I was installing the new GFI.  The GFI was installed in a metal weather proof box with a metal cable clamp.  When I removed the cable from the clamp there was a small dimple in the jacket.  Could that cause a buzz?

schematic.jpg

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To the above question:

a] As far as GFCI or cable problems. They are a go/ no go thing. Just opens, shorts or mis-wired.

b] get a 'Kill-a-Watt' (or similar) meter and see if the voltages are correct.

c] connect: wall outlet >> IT >> GFCI >> outlet/plug strip >>directly to all of the hi-fi components. DON'T use any filters, UPS or regen. don't daisy chain any of the AC cords.

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Couple other questions

 

Is there any concern with having the transformer in close proximity(1') to a subwoofer?


Is it better to leave the transformer on all the time or unplug it when not in use? I.e. a busy work week ;)


Is there any specific power on/off instructions? I.e. plug the transformer in then plug the power strip in, or plug the strip in then plug the transformer in

 

With a transformer with 2 outlets, is it better to use 1 10' power cord to a strip/splitter with 2 3' cords or 2 10' cords?

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On ‎6‎/‎4‎/‎2018 at 6:21 PM, Speedskater said:

To the above question:

a] As far as GFCI or cable problems. They are a go/ no go thing. Just opens, shorts or mis-wired.

b] get a 'Kill-a-Watt' (or similar) meter and see if the voltages are correct.

c] connect: wall outlet >> IT >> GFCI >> outlet/plug strip >>directly to all of the hi-fi components. DON'T use any filters, UPS or regen. don't daisy chain any of the AC cords.

Transformer Buzz

I still have the transformer buzz.

a) I ruled out the cable problems.  I swapped out my inlet and outlet cords for 14 AWG romex and I took the GFI out of the circuit & I still have the buzz. 

If I plug the power strip directly into the wall, without the IT, no buzz. So, it is not the power strip.

b) I used a volt meter to check the voltages.   I measured 62.7V from X1 - G and with X4 - G; 126V X1 - X4.  I have a kill-a-watt, how does that help me? I thought it measured VA.  Can I get a different measurement from it?  I am careful with my wiring.  How would I check polarity?  Is there polarity if it is wired balanced?

c) I don't have any filters, UPS or daisy chain AC cords.  If I have only the amp (with cheater plug) and the preamp plugged in, when I turn on the preamp, I get the buzz.  I will try without the regen/LPS-1.  (see sketch above)

 

I tried floating the secondary.  (all voltage still good)  I still have the buzz.  My first impression was that the midrange was more pronounced, but that things sounded a bit light. And then I realized that I still had the romex and an extension cord (convenience for the test because the IT is in the basement) to the IT.  When I rewired my starquad cords and plugged back into my 10 awg dedicated circuit, the impact was back.  I felt that some of effortless base has returned.  The system was still cold, so it was hard to judge.  I will report back when I have given another listen.

 

The next thing I am going to do is rewire the IT not balanced.  To see if it makes a difference?  Do you think that will help?

 

Does anyone else have a buzz that is caused by their ultra isolation transformer?

 

I have to put my ear to the speaker to hear the buzz.  Should I worry about it?

 

My gut feeling is that the IT is supposed to give me quiet (a black background) and this is just the opposite.  I worry that it is obscuring detail.  What do you think?  Did I get a bum IT?

 

Thank you

Will

 

 

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PS Audio's Paul McGowan's take.
 

Streamer dCS Network Bridge DAC Chord DAVE Amplifier / DRC Lyngdorf TDAI-3400 Speakers Lindemann BL-10 | JL audio E-sub e110 Head-fi and reference Bakoon HPA-21 | Audeze LCD-3 (f) Power and isolation Dedicated power line | Xentek extreme isolation transformer (1KVA, balanced) | Uptone Audio EtherREGEN + Ferrum Hypsos | Sonore OpticalModule + Uptone Audio UltraCap LPS-1.2 | Jensen CI-1RR Cables Jorma Digital XLR (digital), Grimm Audio SQM RCA (analog), Kimber 8TC + WBT (speakers), custom star-quad with Oyaide connectors (AC), Ferrum (DC) and Ghent (ethernet) Software dCS Mosaic | Tidal | Qobuz

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On 6/8/2018 at 8:11 AM, drjimwillie said:

I have a kill-a-watt, how does that help me? I thought it measured VA.

I suggested "Kill-a-Watt" because it's safe to use for an inexperienced person. It measures line V, A & W. And it's easier to measure A or W than with a DMM.

 

But the real question was: is the line voltage overly high? Many audiophile component power transformers are not happy with high line voltage. And some are designed for 110 or 115V.

 

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25 minutes ago, Speedskater said:

But the real question was: is the line voltage overly high? Many audiophile component power transformers are not happy with high line voltage. And some are designed for 110 or 115V.

 

I am getting 125V  with the secondary floating.  Balanced with the secondary not loading I was getting 126V. 

 Line voltage from the receptacle is 121.5V. 

 

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On 6/8/2018 at 2:11 PM, drjimwillie said:

Does anyone else have a buzz that is caused by their ultra isolation transformer?

 

I have to put my ear to the speaker to hear the buzz.  Should I worry about it?

 

I have a Elsund Perfect Power Ultra IT (unbalanced). It is infact the only one of my three ITs that gives me buzz noticable through the active speakers. Even with a DC blocker in front of it it makes this buzz. I actually wonder if the actual construction of a Ultra IT is more prone to buzz than other options? Unfortunately I have no answer to that question. The Elsund Ultra IT is the only one that I do not use. It is in a box waiting for inspiration to opening it up and start experimenting with it. I wonder if a IEC EMI input filter would do the trick? That’s anyway one of the things that I intend to try some day.

 

 

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  • 2 weeks later...
  • 2 weeks later...

So per one and a half and john swensons advice I added a 250v 2a ceramic time delay fuse to the transformer.  The prewired 250va model says to use a 6a fuse, the 125va a 3a fuse.  I have the transformer wired 120 in 120 out and can't be putting more then a 1a load on it(specs say 50w dac 30w headphone amp).  

 

Id just like to confirm grounding of the electrics boxes though.

 

I have the input like this(attached pictures ignore the red wires on the terminals those r gone now?
Metal box
Pvc terminal adapter and brushing
Metal cover plate with fused iec inlet
 
Is this ok? In this situation the metal box isn't grounded.  On the output I'd use a metal electrical box and the standard ac outlet grounds to the box just by attaching it. 
 
Thanks so much for the help and to everyone whos contributed to this thread the transformer makes a massive difference

Free-shipping-one-pieces-audio-Rhodium-US-AC-Power-Receptacle-distributor-Wall-outlet-Socket.jpg

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  • 2 months later...
  • 1 month later...

Has anyone here tried using the Topaz with one of the PS Audio Power Plant Regenerators?

I was wondering if they might work well together as follows:

 

wall >  Power Plant > Topaz > power strip (without surge pro or filtering)

 

The Topaz to lower common and normal mode noise in complement with the Regenerator to provide lower impedance, power regulation and lower harmonic distortion.

I'm thinking to put the PP Regenerator before the Topaz so the Topaz could reject the common mode noise

from the PP's MOV surge protection.  

 

Any thoughts on this?  

Also, any specific  recommendations for power strip?    Thanks

 

 

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On 11/8/2018 at 12:34 PM, wwc said:

Has anyone here tried using the Topaz with one of the PS Audio Power Plant Regenerators?

I was wondering if they might work well together as follows:

 

wall >  Power Plant > Topaz > power strip (without surge pro or filtering)

 

The Topaz to lower common and normal mode noise in complement with the Regenerator to provide lower impedance, power regulation and lower harmonic distortion.

I'm thinking to put the PP Regenerator before the Topaz so the Topaz could reject the common mode noise

from the PP's MOV surge protection.  

 

Any thoughts on this?  

Also, any specific  recommendations for power strip?    Thanks

 

 

Not a fan of the PS audio power gear, since the design is essentially a UPS without the battery. There's a lower impedance from the wall outlet than the PS audio gear.

Certainly the Topaz can be used on the output of any UPS to remove the common mode noise that inherently UPS produce. I've played with this concept in the back of my mind, but an online UPS is noisy for audio powers, both acoustically and electrically on the front end.

 

Harmonic distortion affects transformer's abilities by reducing output power. Harmonics in the order of >3% are common for houses, and are only a problem is the earth/ground to neutral voltage is higher than a 0.5Vac. Equipment will still run, but the harmonics can get into DC supply rails in amps where it can be heard. Have a look on page 15 of the pdf to see measurements. I tested my own amp, and a spectral analysis revealed only the frequency I has playing and nothing else, so the construction of the amplifier has a great deal of influence. There's also scope photos of different power cables on amps also interesting.

 

For a power strip use a plain type, no suppressors.

Studies On Residential Power Line Noise.pdf

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