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My (very) mini review of the Singxer SU-1 DDC


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On 12/29/2018 at 7:07 AM, rafa said:

It is same design with modifications. If you know anything about electronics and have some experience with it you can assume w 90% accuracy...

 

Does the Gustard U16 have the same galvanic isolation that the Singxer SU-1offers? From the photos it doesn't seem to offer galvanic isolation. So it would seem it's not the same design.

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7 hours ago, Seegs108 said:

 

Does the Gustard U16 have the same galvanic isolation that the Singxer SU-1offers? From the photos it doesn't seem to offer galvanic isolation. So it would seem it's not the same design.

Who says U16 is same design? It's totally different device made by different manufacturer.

We were talking about Singxer SU-6, not Gustard U16.

Aqua Acoustics La Voce + Gato Audio AMP-150 + Opera Callas speakers

Audio PC LPS+Neutrino clock+SoTm USBexp + Win10 + Fidelizer Pro

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  • 2 weeks later...

Hi All

 

I have an issue that one of you may be able to help me with. This is my (my dad's) setup

 

44.1 256DSD with xtr-2s on HQplayer / i7-920 16GB DDR3 X58 chipset

LKS  mah-DA004 on I2s

Singxer SU-1

SOtM sms-200-ultra

Classe Audio amp

Emerald Physics EP-2 speakers.


The Singxer is making things out of phase. I know its the SIngxer because SOtM -> LKS through USB is in phase. I tried physically reversing the amp -> speaker cables, changing the firmware to 2.22, and setting the no 6 switch to off. 

 

https://download.shenzhenaudio.com/Singxer/

New firmware was posted for the SU-6 because there was a bug. It's v2.21 and its the exact same size as v2.20 for the SU-1. I thought that was coincidental but haven't tried flashing it. Oh and the inv button on HQplayer doesn't change anything either. Any ideas?

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5 minutes ago, Paoz said:

is possible to power the su 6 or s1  with sotm sPS-500
(i'm using sotm sPS-500 with sotm 200,
i would like use to together with su 6)

Not directly as main pcb use 5V. If you put Vr between then yes.

 

As your SPS500 supply 7Vdc, 9Vdc, 12Vdc or 19V

Aqua Acoustics La Voce + Gato Audio AMP-150 + Opera Callas speakers

Audio PC LPS+Neutrino clock+SoTm USBexp + Win10 + Fidelizer Pro

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On 10/21/2016 at 2:46 PM, tboooe said:

Well for less $200 it could be worth going for the F-1 anyway.

 

Also want to make sure that no one gets the impression that the SU-1 is lean or bright. Relative to the Mutec, the SU-1 does not sound as warm and lush. I think most people would probably say my system is overly warm and maybe too syrupy in the midrange. This is why I made the comment that the SU-1 balances out my system.

IMO, - the F-1 is significantly better. But I also have the Gustard U16 with the new Sabre chip and it is considerably better than the F-1.

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On 1/1/2019 at 4:22 PM, Seegs108 said:

 

Does the Gustard U16 have the same galvanic isolation that the Singxer SU-1offers? From the photos it doesn't seem to offer galvanic isolation. So it would seem it's not the same design.

It is my understanding that this is done via software in the FPGA array. I do not know how this achieved. But I can say that the U16 is considerably better than the F-1.

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On 12/24/2018 at 3:05 PM, cat6man said:

 

anyone hear this yet??

Hi,

Thanks for posting this. I haven't heard of it. At 3 times the price of the F-1,- I would think that this would be a significant step up.

For me, - I'd have to hear a TON of great reports from users who are running the U16. From the reports and testing from users, - no one thinks that the F-1 is as good. And U16 is only $60 more than the F-1.

 

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2 hours ago, Albrecht said:

Hi,

Thanks for posting this. I haven't heard of it. At 3 times the price of the F-1,- I would think that this would be a significant step up.

For me, - I'd have to hear a TON of great reports from users who are running the U16. From the reports and testing from users, - no one thinks that the F-1 is as good. And U16 is only $60 more than the F-1.

 

 

i'm on a different path now.  i got the TotalDAC D1-server which includes a superb reclocker and it isn't leaving my system.

my SU-1 is now available :)

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  • 3 weeks later...
11 minutes ago, rafa said:

Not directly to main pcb. If I remember well, somebody here in this thread was checking datasheet of chips on pcb and maksimum voltage is 5.5V.

If I am not wrong...

As I suspected, total opposite to the seller's reassurance who stated that he had been using the 6V with several 5V devices, without any issues what so ever! Are there any "small black boxes" I can get to bring the voltage down a touch?

Cheers!

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46 minutes ago, the_doc735 said:

As I suspected, total opposite to the seller's reassurance who stated that he had been using the 6V with several 5V devices, without any issues what so ever! Are there any "small black boxes" I can get to bring the voltage down a touch?

Cheers!

 

https://www.ebay.ca/str/ldovr

 

( I happen to have two unused LT3042 meant for the SU1)

 

He also have small black ones 😀

 

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1 hour ago, the_doc735 said:

As I suspected, total opposite to the seller's reassurance who stated that he had been using the 6V with several 5V devices, without any issues what so ever! Are there any "small black boxes" I can get to bring the voltage down a touch?

Cheers!

without turning the LPSU back into SMPS further down the line!

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8 minutes ago, rafa said:

Just buy one of those ldovr from link. The best double version as sounds better than single.

When you install 5V version before main pcb you can feed your SU-1 6-20V even.

 

Whoa! 20V in 5V out of an LT3045 board at 300mA (about what an SU-1 draws if I recall) will result in 4.5 watts of heat to dissipate.  That's not going to fly! :$

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2 hours ago, the_doc735 said:

I see that I can use a resistor based voltage divider circuit, but don't understand the algebra in order to determine the resistors required to drop the voltage from 6v to 5v?

Therefore can anyone  with algebra skills determine what resistors I need to buy? (they need to be of equal value)

Many Thanks!

they need to be equal to achieve half the voltage that is!

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Application Dont’s

As tempting as it may be to use a voltage divider to step down, say, a 12V power supply to 5V, voltage dividers should not be used to supply power to a load.

Any current that the load requires is also going to have to run through R1. The current and voltage across R1 produce power, which is dissipated in the form of heat. If that power exceeds the rating of the resistor (usually between ⅛W and 1W), the heat begins to become a major problem, potentially melting the poor resistor.

That doesn’t even mention how inefficient a voltage-divider-power-supply would be. Basically, don’t use a voltage divider as a voltage supply for anything that requires even a modest amount of power. If you need to drop down a voltage to use it as a power supply, look into voltage regulators or switching supplies. 

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19 hours ago, Superdad said:

 

Whoa! 20V in 5V out of an LT3045 board at 300mA (about what an SU-1 draws if I recall) will result in 4.5 watts of heat to dissipate.  That's not going to fly! :$

120mA I think. And you nitpicking here ;) He was asking about 6V

Aqua Acoustics La Voce + Gato Audio AMP-150 + Opera Callas speakers

Audio PC LPS+Neutrino clock+SoTm USBexp + Win10 + Fidelizer Pro

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