UltraCap™ LPS-1 Troubleshooting, system grounding, etc.

[genjamon]

Thanks for the diagram, that helps immensely.

 

The only leakage loop you should have left is DAC to power amp which goes through the power conditioner. BUT the digital stuff also goes through the power conditioner.

 

Contrary to all "it makes sense to me" thoughts on the subject the way cut down on leakage loop noise with the DAC and pre/power amps is to have the tightest coupling you can get in the AC domain. Since a leakage loop goes through the AC main the higher the impedance in the mains side the higher the noise voltage generated between the boxes. I know the power conditioner is trying to suppress noise on the mains, but the methods frequently used actually increase the impedance between outlets thus increasing the noise from leakage loops.

 

So to test this hypothesis, try taking the power conditioner out of the system and just use a very simple power strip, no filters, nothing fancy, just outlets connected by wires. This will give a very low impedance between the AC to each power supply, which should cut down on the noise generated by leakage loops. Everything you now have connected to the power conditioner should go into the simple power strip, including all the digital stuff.

 

In combination with the LPS-1 and other leakage loop breaking devices doing this can really make a big difference. I did this in my system (replaced a $1k power conditioner with a $35 power strip and Topaz isolation transformer) and it made a significant improvement is SQ.

 

Thanks,

 

John S.

 

thanks a bunch, John. How about this as an easier experiment: plug both DAC and Amp into the same duplex outlet on the power conditioner?

 

But im still a big mystified about how the smps noise is coupling into what must be the amp? No leakage loops there, clearly, but there's still gotta be some pathway for that noise. And again, this isn't the first time. I had microRendu packet noise flowing through the HDPlex when it first arrived. I eventually tamed it by disconnecting one of the internal cables for me of its outputs, but before that, a 2prong cheater plug eliminated the noise. This makes me think it was riding the 3rd prong in that case.

 

But in this case, iFi is a 2 prong wall wart, while the Meanwell has a 3 prong cord to wall.

[Cornan]

[ATTACH=CONFIG]29831[/ATTACH]

 

Here you go guys

Personally I would change those Cat6a's between Mac Mini and router and router to TP link to Supra Cat8 and power the uphill TP link in the same room as the router If possible (or battery power). All audio components (incl downhill TP link) must be powered from the same wall outlet, via power filter or power strip. Isolate all IC's possible inbetween AC and DC components. Just my 2 cents.

 

Sent from my Nexus 7 using Computer Audiophile mobile app

[ElviaCaprice]

So to test this hypothesis, try taking the power conditioner out of the system and just use a very simple power strip, no filters, nothing fancy, just outlets connected by wires. This will give a very low impedance between the AC to each power supply, which should cut down on the noise generated by leakage loops. Everything you now have connected to the power conditioner should go into the simple power strip, including all the digital stuff.

 

Thanks,

 

John S.

 

Thanks JS,

Pulled out my power conditioner of my system. Made a big difference in SQ here.

Although my DAC/Regen are battery operated. But I had everything else hooked up to a power conditioner including the amps. Good riddance. Learn something new every day.

[jamesg11]

Any drawing program can do it, powerpoint can do it, Word can even do it. It is just boxes, lines and text.

 

You can even do it by hand with pen on paper and take a picture with a phone. But a drawing on a computer is usually easier to read.

 

The test about if it sounds the same as volume is changed is still very important.

 

Thanks,

 

John S.

Regardless of drawing method, I dread the gross spaghetti image my system will generate!

[mikicasellas]

Personally I would change those Cat6a's between Mac Mini and router and router to TP link to Supra Cat8 and power the uphill TP link in the same room as the router If possible (or battery power). All audio components (incl downhill TP link) must be powered from the same wall outlet, via power filter or power strip. Isolate all IC's possible inbetween AC and DC components. Just my 2 cents.

 

Sent from my Nexus 7 using Computer Audiophile mobile app

 

Hello i am waiting for both the Microrendu and the LPS-1 and i was considering connecting my modem/router with a 20 meters CAT 6 directly into the Microrendu, could you "graphically if possible" explain how do you do what you said? i am very fool with this ethernet cables and fiber optics and TP links an so...

 

Thanks

 

Miki

[Cornan]

Hello i am waiting for both the Microrendu and the LPS-1 and i was considering connecting my modem/router with a 20 meters CAT 6 directly into the Microrendu, could you "graphically if possible" explain how do you do what you said? i am very fool with this ethernet cables and fiber optics and TP links an so...

 

Thanks

 

Miki

 

Different setups require different approaches. I have attached a spagetti image of how I personally think it should look like in your case. Do mind that this is how I think it should be. Others will likely have different opinions.

 

I am all for passive isolation methods. That is why there is no TP-links, Intona or similar in the image. However, what I have´nt added but do think is worth a try is the Sbooster Vbus2 Isolator which IMO improves 3-wire USB cables since it shields the USB plugs (yes, I do beleive there are still some noticable capasitive coupling left inside there). I use it in my own setup with great results. Remember that the 3-wire USB cable must be as short as possible and have no shielding or dielectric materials. Only unbleached silk or cotton sleeves around the datawires...preferable with a loose fit. Also the Cat6a cable after the network isolator (EMO EN-70HD or similar) must be as short as possible. If you can find a RJ45 male to male adapter it would be perfect!

 

Spagetti image.pdf

 

Remember that this is my opinion based on my personal experiances only. Do ask others and try what you beleive is best for you.

 

I hope that helps!

 

Edit: Please note that a 3-wire USB cable requires a DAC that do not need 5v USB power. If your DAC requires 5v USB power then a Intona industrial USB isolator plus clean 5v power at Intona input and DAC input is the way to go.

 

/Micael

[Cornan]

@mikicasellas

Here is an adjusted spegetti image how I personally would have done it with my own DAC and with LPS-1 + microRendu:

 

[mikicasellas]

Hello Micael,

 

Thanks a lot for your kindness i appreciate that,

 

So do you believe the Booster Vbus2 would also improve sound having already the MICRORENDU, i have the Uptone Regen that comes with a short hard usb connector, isn't that do the same?

 

Regarding the Passive Network Isolator, which one do you use or suggest?

 

I did not get quite well the USB 3-wire, you bought it or made it, i am using an Oyaide NEO($38) that it is amazing and surpasses a lot of $400 and up other ones.

 

So what about this 3.wire?

 

Regards and thanks again!!

 

Miki

 

Different setups require different approaches. I have attached a spagetti image of how I personally think it should look like in your case. Do mind that this is how I think it should be. Others will likely have different opinions.

 

I am all for passive isolation methods. That is why there is no TP-links, Intona or similar in the image. However, what I have´nt added but do think is worth a try is the Sbooster Vbus2 Isolator which IMO improves 3-wire USB cables since it shields the USB plugs (yes, I do beleive there are still some noticable capasitive coupling left inside there). I use it in my own setup with great results. Remember that the 3-wire USB cable must be as short as possible and have no shielding or dielectric materials. Only unbleached silk or cotton sleeves around the datawires...preferable with a loose fit. Also the Cat6a cable after the network isolator (EMO EN-70HD or similar) must be as short as possible. If you can find a RJ45 male to male adapter it would be perfect!

 

[ATTACH]29920[/ATTACH]

 

Remember that this is my opinion based on my personal experiances only. Do ask others and try what you beleive is best for you.

 

I hope that helps!

 

Edit: Please note that a 3-wire USB cable requires a DAC that do not need 5v USB power. If your DAC requires 5v USB power then a Intona industrial USB isolator plus clean 5v power at Intona input and DAC input is the way to go.

 

/Micael

[Cornan]

Hello Micael,

 

Thanks a lot for your kindness i appreciate that,

 

So do you believe the Booster Vbus2 would also improve sound having already the MICRORENDU, i have the Uptone Regen that comes with a short hard usb connector, isn't that do the same?

 

Regarding the Passive Network Isolator, which one do you use or suggest?

 

I did not get quite well the USB 3-wire, you bought it or made it, i am using an Oyaide NEO($38) that it is amazing and surpasses a lot of $400 and up other ones.

 

So what about this 3.wire?

 

Regards and thanks again!!

 

Miki

 

You are welcome Miki!

 

Yes, IMO a Vbus2 Isolator would improve any setup with USB cable. I use it both before and after my USB Regen. It is not the same thing as the hard adapter. It blocks the 5v pin and shields the plug...so it can be used together with the hard adapter or any USB cable if your DAC does'nt need USB power.

 

I really suggest to just remove the metal parts on the receiving end of the Supra cat8. The second option would be a EMO EN-70HD, Acoustic Revive or similar Network isolator.

 

A 3-wire USB cable needs to be ordered special made from for example Elijah Audio (If not DIY). You want a unshielded 2-wire cable with detachable GND wire. You can also buy this one that works on any DAC.

 

 

Removing the GND after DAC handshake is the icing of the cake!

 

/Micael

 

Sent from my Nexus 7 using Computer Audiophile mobile app

[muski]

In the process of removing the HDPlex from the system, I plugged in the Meanwell, and a spare iFi iPower wallwart (9V, 2A). I only ordered one Meanwell. Hmm, I'm now hearing some strange digital hash with no music playing and ear up to the tweeter.

 

I have the same problem with 'digital hash' coming through my system with an iFi 9v/LPS-1/µRendu/Chord Mojo powered off—very noticeable. With the Meanwell it's also there, though very faint. With my HDPlex there's no noise.

 

I've taken all power strips out of the equation and plug right into the wall. See attached system diagram—btw, I'm bridging wifi/ethernet on the Macbook Pro, but I get the same noise with a D-Link router (though not an Airport Express).

 

If the Mojo is powered on, I don't hear the noise. I only discovered this when the Mojo ran out of battery and shutdown.

 

It doesn't concern me that much, but I'd sure enjoy an explanation as to what's happening and why.

 

cheers,

muski

 

(One great feature of the LPS-1 is it's also a 4-second UPS—you can swap the PS without shutting down the µRendu).

[nihilist]

I'm using just the 9v ifi powering the microrendu with a Hugo tt dac and I also hear noise when the Hugo tt is shut off. Dead silent when it is turned on. Maybe a grounding issue? Also not at all worried about it as it doesn't seem to affect sound quality what so ever! Can't wait to try the LPS-1 when it arrives in November.

 

 

Sent from my iPad using Computer Audiophile

[genjamon]

I have the same problem with 'digital hash' coming through my system with an iFi 9v/LPS-1/µRendu/Chord Mojo powered off—very noticeable. With the Meanwell it's also there, though very faint. With my HDPlex there's no noise.

 

I've taken all power strips out of the equation and plug right into the wall. See attached system diagram—btw, I'm bridging wifi/ethernet on the Macbook Pro, but I get the same noise with a D-Link router (though not an Airport Express).

 

If the Mojo is powered on, I don't hear the noise. I only discovered this when the Mojo ran out of battery and shutdown.

 

It doesn't concern me that much, but I'd sure enjoy an explanation as to what's happening and why.

 

cheers,

muski

 

(One great feature of the LPS-1 is it's also a 4-second UPS—you can swap the PS without shutting down the µRendu).

 

Glad I'm not the only one hearing this. It's been a busy week, so I haven't been able to update. But sometime early this week or last weekend, I shut down the whole system except the amp. Then I simply plugged in one LPS-1 and the Meanwell into the power conditioner - and put my ear up to the tweeter of one of my speakers. What I heard was a gradually increasing tone - like one of the supercapacitors was charging up - then some kind of brief quick digital noises before a second gradually increasing tone - like the second bank of the supercapacitors charging up. And after these two gradually increasing tones, there were two different sets of digital noises, each lasting for a couple seconds before switching to the other. One set was quieter than the other, but they also had different patterns to them.

 

It sounds to me like I'm hearing some transform of the LPS-1 circuitry here. It could be how the Meanwell itself is "stressed" by the electrical draw and is putting some kinds of junk into the AC power. But I'm really curious about actually being able to hear those increasing tone sounds as the LPS-1 is initially charging up.

[JohnSwenson]

Glad I'm not the only one hearing this. It's been a busy week, so I haven't been able to update. But sometime early this week or last weekend, I shut down the whole system except the amp. Then I simply plugged in one LPS-1 and the Meanwell into the power conditioner - and put my ear up to the tweeter of one of my speakers. What I heard was a gradually increasing tone - like one of the supercapacitors was charging up - then some kind of brief quick digital noises before a second gradually increasing tone - like the second bank of the supercapacitors charging up. And after these two gradually increasing tones, there were two different sets of digital noises, each lasting for a couple seconds before switching to the other. One set was quieter than the other, but they also had different patterns to them.

 

It sounds to me like I'm hearing some transform of the LPS-1 circuitry here. It could be how the Meanwell itself is "stressed" by the electrical draw and is putting some kinds of junk into the AC power. But I'm really curious about actually being able to hear those increasing tone sounds as the LPS-1 is initially charging up.

 

I have been able to hear this in my system when the LPS-1 is powering my DAC. When the DAC is unpowered the output is high impedance, once it powers up the output is low impedance. So during the initial charging time (when there is no output from the LPS-1) the audio interconnects are picking up noise from the feeder supply cable. ( the volume control has to be up high to hear this) Once the DAC turns on and goes into low impedance output, this all goes away.

 

So my guess is you are getting some pickup into your analog system from either the feeder supply itself or the cable connecting it to the LPS-1.

 

John S.

[genjamon]

I have been able to hear this in my system when the LPS-1 is powering my DAC. When the DAC is unpowered the output is high impedance, once it powers up the output is low impedance. So during the initial charging time (when there is no output from the LPS-1) the audio interconnects are picking up noise from the feeder supply cable. ( the volume control has to be up high to hear this) Once the DAC turns on and goes into low impedance output, this all goes away.

 

So my guess is you are getting some pickup into your analog system from either the feeder supply itself or the cable connecting it to the LPS-1.

 

John S.

 

awesome. Mystery solved. I can confirm this in my system. I turned everything off except the amp. Then I removed all connections from the amp except the speaker wire. Then I powered up the LPS-1 using the Meanwell. Nothing - nada - zip with ear up to tweeter.

 

Then in I connected the interconnects to the amp. Still no power to the DAC. The noise was there again with ear up to tweeter.

 

Noise didn't change when I turned on the DAC. And I don't think it changed when I connected the speaker level cables that lead to the sub plate amps. Though there might have been a slight increase.

[sandyk]

awesome. Mystery solved. I can confirm this in my system. I turned everything off except the amp. Then I removed all connections from the amp except the speaker wire. Then I powered up the LPS-1 using the Meanwell. Nothing - nada - zip with ear up to tweeter.

 

Then in I connected the interconnects to the amp. Still no power to the DAC. The noise was there again with ear up to tweeter.

 

Noise didn't change when I turned on the DAC. And I don't think it changed when I connected the speaker level cables that lead to the sub plate amps. Though there might have been a slight increase.

 

Unfortunately, that low level noise does result in minor audio degradation. It may even come from a nearby TV in standby mode. That is why in my DIY Class A Preamp I also switch through the actual input being used on it's earth side as well.

Even then, using a low noise 10 x preamp ahead of my CRO at maximum gain, there can still be seen some remaining very low level SMPS rubbish with the TV on standby.

[JohnSwenson]

Hi John, I found an Elgar 2.5kVA iso trans that's a few hundred dollars cheaper than the ones on eBay that are willing to ship to Australia. And I've found a local electrician (who also designed his own smaller iso trannies) who's happy to make it suitable for Australian operation (an IEC inlet and Australian 3-pin outlet) and check the safety etc.

 

The specified coupling capacitance is even lower than your Topaz at 0.0005 pF !!

 

Check out the manual here, where they discuss the use of Faraday shielding and other things: http://www.programmablepower.com/products/Discontinued/Downloads/HIT%20Series%20-%20High%20Isolation%20Transformers.pdf

 

What are you thoughts? Are there any areas where your Topaz would be better or overall are they much the same, i.e. both very very good for audio applications?

 

Yes those should work very well.

 

Thanks bringing those up.

 

John S.

[jamesg11]

Em, where are you sourcing this? I'm in Oz too.

[asdf1000]

Yes those should work very well.

 

Thanks bringing those up.

 

John S.

 

No, thank you for sharing info about the importance of extremely low coupling capacitance and low inter-winding leakage current ! Greatly appreciated.

[asdf1000]

Em, where are you sourcing this? I'm in Oz too.

 

Hey mate - I found an Elgar on eBay. There are some higher priced Topaz units still for sale though, in great looking condition. Try not to look at the shipping price though... the Topaz and Elgar units are ~35 kg's....!! Crickey !

[One and a half]

awesome. Mystery solved. I can confirm this in my system. I turned everything off except the amp. Then I removed all connections from the amp except the speaker wire. Then I powered up the LPS-1 using the Meanwell. Nothing - nada - zip with ear up to tweeter.

 

Then in I connected the interconnects to the amp. Still no power to the DAC. The noise was there again with ear up to tweeter.

 

Noise didn't change when I turned on the DAC. And I don't think it changed when I connected the speaker level cables that lead to the sub plate amps. Though there might have been a slight increase.

 

Can you remember at which point when connecting the interconnects the noise increased?

Yes, keep in mind that the power switch is off doesn't necessarily mean that some circuits within components (especially computers) are still alive.

Is it possible to remove the power cables and repeat the same tests?

[JohnSwenson]

A few quick words on what is happening with the transformers I have been talking about and how to setup a system using them.

 

It starts with the leakage loops I have been talking about recently. Remember these are loops that go through the AC mains, power supplies, DC output of power supplies, interconnects (audio and digital) to other power supplies and back through the AC mains. Note this has nothing to do with the "third pin" safety ground. I've gone over this in detail in other posts.

 

You can get rid of the noise generated by these loops in two ways, block the loop somewhere in the loop (The LPS-1 does this for certain paths), OR decrease the impedance along the loop, if the impedance is lower the NOISE generated by the CURRENT will be less.

 

This post is all about the AC side of this.

 

To decrease the impedance on the AC you need to have the lowest possible amount of wire, filters, anything else between the outlets you plug your AC cords into. This specifically means NO filters in the power strips, they dramatically increase the leakage currents between boxes plugged into such a strip.

 

Ideally you should have ONE power strip with EVERYTHING in your audio system plugged into that one strip. By everything I mean everything that has an AC plug that is connected into your audio system somehow. This includes power amps, computers etc.

 

Note this is the ideal situation, try and achieve this if you possibly can. For example if you are in a 120V area and you have two 700 watt power amps you can't do that, so some other arrangement will have to be made.

 

BTW the power strip for this does not have to be very expensive. I am currently using a $35 Tripp Lite power strip, no nothing inside, circuit breaker, switch, outlets and wires. Just this alone replacing my $1000 audiophile power filtering strip made a huge improvement in sound.

 

So now you have gotten rid of those expensive filtering power strips, doesn't that leave your system exposed to all the crud on the AC line from your other deices in your house and your neighbors as well? That is where the isolation transformer comes in.

 

These transformers with the very low interwinding capacitance are VERY effective noise filters AND surge suppressors without increasing leakage currents. MANY MANY of the filtering systems in your audiophile power strips DO filter out the noise, BUT they add large amounts of leakage currents into the system. These isolation transformers block the noise without adding leakage currents.

 

So the system as a whole is the isolation transformer feeding a very simple, very low impedance power strip with everything plugged into that power strip. This gets rid of external AC mains noise, deals with surges and provides a very low impedance AC mains path that significantly cuts down on the noise from the leakage loops.

 

Note it does not decrease the actual leakage loops, they are still there, it just decreases the NOISE generated by these loops, and THAT is what really matters.

 

So devices like the LPS-1 will BREAK loops from the digital side of things, which are usually the worst ones in a system, the above AC mains topology will decrease the noise generated by the leakage loops in the rest of the system, DACs, preamps, poweramps etc.

 

John S.

[gstew]

John and Alex,

 

Thanks for the great product in your LPS-1. They have been very significant upgrades everywhere I've tried them so far. I am heartily looking forward to your next act!

 

I've been closely following your explanations of AC leakage loops in audio systems and trying to wrap my head around it and the effects on our sound quality. AND I have a question that I am surprised no one else has asked... where do power regenerators like the PS Audio P5 and P10 fit into this?

 

My gut feel is that the low output impedance (<0.015ohm from the P10 manual) of these units is good for insuring the connected equipment have pretty low impedance paths to each other, minus the added impedance of the relay control contact for each outlet and any internal filtering (I am not sure what is there, they indicate there is some). And the power transformer will provide some isolation, but not nearly as much as the isolation transformers you have been recommending (Might it be better if the transformer has an electrostatic shield? I can check with PS Audio on that).

 

So if my understanding is ok, it not so bad of a situation, but adding an appropriately sized isolation transformer ahead of the regenerator sounds like a good idea.

 

With the addition of an appropriately-sized isolation transformer, can I consider my P10's to be roughly functionally equivalent to the power strip in your target setup? Or am I totally off base here?

 

Also, more a DIY-ish question... one thing I learned to do early on in building equipment was to 'sex' the transformer, that is plugging it into the AC with one side to the hot, then reversing it and plugging that side to the neutral, measuring the AC voltage potential on the transformer core (a bit hard on toroid transformers!) each way, and wiring the transformer in the orientation that produces the lower voltage potential. Does doing this reduce the possible AC leakage caused by the piece of equipment I'm planning to use it in? Or does it not affect it at all?

 

Thanks for your answers here!

 

Greg in Mississippi

[ted_b]

.......but as we have been saying, the evil of an SMPS is not the ultra high-frequency harmonics (spread over a very wide bandwidth to pass strict emissions requirements)--heck, all conventional LPS units kick a lot of low frequency harmonics into the line. No the evil of an SMPS is its passing of AC leakage currents (onto the DC) and the formation of "leakage-current-loops" with other power supplies (LPS or SMPS) in one's system.

 

Since the UltraCap™ LPS-1 100% blocks leakage currents from whatever supply is feeding it (LPS feeders have leakage too, just not as much as an SMPS with its required "Y" capacitor), the SMPS is rendered harmless. Does the wall wart on your telephone or answering machine do sonic detriment to your audio system? That's about the relationship that an LPS-1 feeder has to your system.

 

--Alex C.

 

Alex/John,

Hi. I am looking to get an LPS-1 into my system, likely to simply power the microRendu (instead of my JS-2, which I will solely use elsewhere in the system using only a single rail). My question is regarding your phone/answering system example (quote taken from another thread). And before I go on, I realize the LPS-1 is literally immune and isolated from this example, but a dirty wallwart is nonetheless leaking into the mains. Most people's dirty wallwarts within their home are hopefully not in the listening room and likely not on the circuit used for audio. I (ignorantly) assume that dirty wallwarts in the listening room's circuit are more likely to affect hearing that noise than when placed elsewhere in the house, so is your example relevant? Seriously, I ask ignorantly cuz I know 'everything matters" but if I am to worry about the whole house (and I do have whole house surge protection and ground loop protection installed at the mains box), then my first work would be with my refrigerator.

 

Anyway, what I am trying to ask is that is it worth it to use your included SMPS (or any other cleaner wallwart) on another circuit other than the audio one (solution in most people's homes would be a 25 ft extension cord to closest non-audio circuit)? If not, is it because all circuits would affect sq the same (which in your estimation, with the LPS-1 design, is almost nill anyway)? Thx

[JohnSwenson]

Alex/John,

Hi. I am looking to get an LPS-1 into my system, likely to simply power the microRendu (instead of my JS-2, which I will solely use elsewhere in the system using only a single rail). My question is regarding your phone/answering system example (quote taken from another thread). And before I go on, I realize the LPS-1 is literally immune and isolated from this example, but a dirty wallwart is nonetheless leaking into the mains. Most people's dirty wallwarts within their home are hopefully not in the listening room and likely not on the circuit used for audio. I (ignorantly) assume that dirty wallwarts in the listening room's circuit are more likely to affect hearing that noise than when placed elsewhere in the house, so is your example relevant? Seriously, I ask ignorantly cuz I know 'everything matters" but if I am to worry about the whole house (and I do have whole house surge protection and ground loop protection installed at the mains box), then my first work would be with my refrigerator.

 

Anyway, what I am trying to ask is that is it worth it to use your included SMPS (or any other cleaner wallwart) on another circuit other than the audio one (solution in most people's homes would be a 25 ft extension cord to closest non-audio circuit)? If not, is it because all circuits would affect sq the same (which in your estimation, with the LPS-1 design, is almost nill anyway)? Thx

 

Hi Ted,

it's a question of degree. In most systems the sonic detriment from leakage current is much worse than the detriment from actual noise on the mains (noise between neutral and hot). If you DO get rid of the leakage loops, then issues relating to actual noise on the mains may have some small impact. The isolation transformers mentioned above will essentially eliminate any noise from the rest of your house getting into the audio system AC mains AND provide very good surge protection.

 

But even if you don't use the isolation transformer the actual amount of noise injected back into the mains from modern SMPS is pretty small. I did some tests of this recently and could not see ANY difference in the noise on my mains from the Mean Well SMPS. BUT the SMPS that came with my older headphone amp was a different story, it was bad. For some reason the SMPS from older networking equipment seems to be particularly bad.

 

So if worried about any of this, just use the isolation transformer on the circuit used for the audio system and that will make sure none of the noise from the rest of the house gets into the audio system.

 

John S.

[Superdad]

As is the nature of the forum, this "UltraCap LPS-1 Troubleshooting" thread has wandered off into pages of discussions of AC mains isolation transformers. In the interest of new LPS-1 users who might come to this thread looking for assistance, I have moved all the posts about isolation transformers into a new thread here.

 

I tried to put it into the CA General Forum, but the site does not allow me to move post into a forum that for which I don't have moderation privileges.

 

You can see I left a few posts (mostly John's) on the topic above, just for interest/education, but for continuity those were also copied into the new thread.

 

Thanks for understanding and for helping to keep this thread on topic. Love the interesting conversations about isolation transformers, but a few of these LPS-1 threads are "client communication/marketing/help tools" that need to stay close to the topic.

 

--Alex C.