UltraCap™ LPS-1 Operation and Pre-purchase thread

[Superdad]

I'll ask here, since it came up in a non Uptone thread:

 

Has anyone actually used 2 LPS-1's in series, and if so, is there a commercially available cable or adapter to make that work?

 

All I've seen discussed are DIY cables, which I understand, but is not feasible for a lot of us.

 

Links welcomed.

 

Hi Rajiv:

 

Sorry, not ignoring your question, I'm just still getting over a nasty cold and also juggling time with family (kids home from college) and unpleasant year-end accounting chores.

 

"Serial DC-barrel Y cables":

Nobody on the planet offers such a thing pre-made (though Larry's link to some crazy heavy-duty variant for RC cars was certainly interesting.

 

The problem is, one would not want to get a series-wired Y cable mixed up with a standard Y cable or damage would result to devices. So custom-made is going to be the only route.

 

So here is the very easiest way--without any soldering--to make a series hook-up of two LPS-1s to go for higher voltages (still at 1.1A total).

Take 2 of these (sold in packs of 10 for less than $5): https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0058RLD9C

 

And 1 zip-cord style DC plug cable (like this, but you only need one and you would likely want it longer):https://www.amazon.com/Amview-10pcs-Pigtails-Cables-Camera/dp/B00HSSW1GS

 

And one short piece of the same gauge wire to use as a jumper.

 

Screw the jumper wire into the "+" terminal of one of the CCTV screw-terminal plugs, and the other end of same into the "-" terminal of the other plug; Then unzip the long cable a little and screw its wires to the still empty +/- terminals of the plugs.

BE SURE TO SCREW THE CENTER PIN's WIRE TO THE AVAILABLE PLUS TERMINAL!

 

Please use a multimeter to check your work and the output before plugging into your device. We take no responsibility for damage caused by DIY cables.

 

Here is a pic of one that took me 2 minutes to make:

 

[Superdad]

it was easy back then, Alex: new Oyaide plugs are smaller

 

I know, I bought up most of the world stock of the nice thick and roomy old style--in both 2.5mm and 2.1mm ;-)

I've had samples of the new ones for months and they are crap for any decent size wire. In fact, the strain-relief/ground strap of the new ones, in addition to being very think and flexible, is not even long enough to wrap halfway around the jacket of my Belden wire. I really don't know what they were thinking.

 

I'll be doing a 1,000 piece buy with Oyaide in early 2017 to have them make me another run of the original style in both sizes.'

 

Since the camera is out, here is a shot of both styles:

 

 

Heck, I don't even like the coarser knurling on the new style. Not as classy.

[Cornan]

You mean you had a hard time getting your solder joints on the Oyaide plugs to look like this?

 

[ATTACH=CONFIG]31744[/ATTACH]

 

And those are four 18awg wires! Each paired to a whopping 15awg. And I one end, I tie the shield, which is another 18awg conductor.

 

Don't feel too bad, it took me a long time to get really good at making them (it's all in the prep). Here is a pile I did one month--before Finally decided I'd had enough and convinced an aerospace cable assembly firm to assemble them for us. They charge a lot, but I gained back 20+ hours of my life. They are also why I don't offer custom lengths or hold any stock of the Oyaide plugs any longer (though I am am the largest importer of the Oyaide DC-2.xG in the USA as far as I know).

 

[ATTACH=CONFIG]31745[/ATTACH]

 

*Haha* that did'nt really make me feel any better! ? I am getting old and need both reading glasses and magnifying glass to even see those small contact pins at all. I succeded with one end...don't ask me how..but somehow manage to solder positive and negative together and burned the plastic part in the upper lip on the other plug. I finally decided I needed a big glass of Bowmore, throw the Oyiade in the bin and have look what eBay have to offer. I am glad I did! ?

 

Sent from my Nexus 7 using Computer Audiophile mobile app

[lmitche]

Alex, funny I have the same pigtails and green screw on power connection kits here. Great advice!

[austinpop]

Hi Rajiv:

 

<Snip>

 

Here is a pic of one that took me 2 minutes to make:

 

[ATTACH=CONFIG]31747[/ATTACH]

 

OK, OK - very clever, Alex!

 

But don't pat yourself on the back yet. Let me throw you a curve ball. So my chain is:

• FMC > Aries Mini
  

I want to power both with LPS-1's. Can I still achieve this with 2 x LPS-1's? Stated differently, can I use LPS-1-A to power the FMC, and then also participate with LPS-1-B in series to power the Mini?

 

Or would I need 3 LPS-1's to achieve all this?

 

Sorry to hear you're sick. I hope you feel better soon.

[pl_svn]

So my chain is:

• FMC > Aries Mini
  

I want to power both with LPS-1's. Can I still achieve this with 2 x LPS-1's? Stated differently, can I use LPS-1-A to power the FMC, and then also participate with LPS-1-B in series to power the Mini?

Or would I need 3 LPS-1's to achieve all this?

 

I asked Auralic about minimum voltage requirement to power an Aries (femto) from a 1.0A ps and they told me it's 16v

(works fine, though, at 12v/1.5A)

 

Aries Mini minimum, as far as I remember, is instead 14v/1.5A

[austinpop]

Yeah 2 LPS-1 set at 7v each make 14v.

 

 

Sent from my iPhone using Computer Audiophile

[pl_svn]

Yeah 2 LPS-1 set at 7v each make 14v.

 

... 14v but still only 1.0A

[austinpop]

Ah gotcha, I see where you're going.

 

http://support.auralic.com/hc/en-us/articles/205863008-What-is-the-Specificaion-of-ARIES-MINI-Power-Input

 

14v/1.2a is the claim, but I would suspect that this is a) conservative, and b) includes the case where there is an internal drive.

 

I suspect if not using internal drive, the 2 LPS-1's in series will work fine.

 

 

Sent from my iPhone using Computer Audiophile

[pl_svn]

though... unless you can get confirmation from Auralic that it will indeed work, you are taking a risk :-/

[austinpop]

I'll ask them...

 

 

Sent from my iPhone using Computer Audiophile

[R1200CL]

though... unless you can get confirmation from Auralic that it will indeed work, you are taking a risk :-/

 

What is the risk ? I can't see any.

[pl_svn]

What is the risk ? I can't see any.

right! actually none, apart... $800

[R1200CL]

right! actually none, apart... $800

 

The mini ?

You can't destroy it with a possible "under power ", is that what you afraid of ?

[Superdad]

right! actually none, apart... $800

 

Well, if someone bought a pair of LPS-1 units to power an Aries mini and it did not work (all that would happen is the LPS-1 LED would turn red), I'd refund their purchase. So no risk there.

Besides, I'm going to guess there is an 85% chance that the LPS-1's 1.1-amps will be plenty for the Aries mini.

[pl_svn]

that goes indeed way beyond great customer care, Alex

 

I'm sure there's no risk at all for either the Aries (it just won't boot or it will shut down as soon as more power than available is required) or the LPS-1s (lights would just turn red, as you said)

[str-1]

Use this one, and you can power both, and get 100 [emoji3]

Fast Ethernet Media Converter - TP-Link

 

But two LPS-1 is better.

 

Thanks. I'll try two MC110CS from Amazon at a total of about £55, which will be just over one tenth of the price of another LPS-1 for me in the UK. I'm a bit worried by the static reported by d_elm but can always return if it doesn't work. Cheers

[str-1]

Thanks. I'll try two MC110CS from Amazon at a total of about £55, which will be just over one tenth of the price of another LPS-1 for me in the UK. I'm a bit worried by the static reported by d_elm but can always return if it doesn't work. Cheers

Actually, I'm now wondering whether I would get better overall sound quality if I left the LPS-1 powering only the mRendu and getting an iFi iPower for the MC210CS. Would this be better than sharing one LPS-1 between the mRendu a MC110CS? Getting an iPower (12v) for the switch did nice things to the sound. I don't really want to go to jthe expense of another LPS-1 if I can help it - hoping for a nice uplift in sound quality for about £100 or less.

[R1200CL]

Actually, I'm now wondering whether I would get better overall sound quality if I left the LPS-1 powering only the mRendu and getting an iFi iPower for the MC210CS. Would this be better than sharing one LPS-1 between the mRendu a MC110CS? Getting an iPower (12v) for the switch did nice things to the sound. I don't really want to go to jthe expense of another LPS-1 if I can help it - hoping for a nice uplift in sound quality for about £100 or less.

 

That may be a a very good option, as I found out an Y-split was not ideal. And yes a second LPS-1 is the ultimate solution. (I will soon test if an EMO EN-70HD can be sufficient instead of FMC's)

 

What I want to ask Superdad or John Swenson about, is the possibility to make a LPS-1 (MK2?), with two isolated outputs. (Same voltage I suppose). Is that doable or even an option to be considered?

Would they need a fixed max output current?

For those not using a Vbus from the MicroRendu, very little power is needed. So there is a lot of power available for a FMC, an USB DAC or a converter.

 

Or maybe is it more convenient to develop a Y spitter that fulfill the need of isolation between the two (or even 3) sources powered from the LPS-1.

 

And will such a possible solution or option, save enough money?

I'm thinking well below 50% of a LPS-1.

[JohnSwenson]

That may be a a very good option, as I found out an Y-split was not ideal. And yes a second LPS-1 is the ultimate solution. (I will soon test if an EMO EN-70HD can be sufficient instead of FMC's)

 

What I want to ask Superdad or John Swenson about, is the possibility to make a LPS-1 (MK2?), with two isolated outputs. (Same voltage I suppose). Is that doable or even an option to be considered?

Would they need a fixed max output current?

For those not using a Vbus from the MicroRendu, very little power is needed. So there is a lot of power available for a FMC, an USB DAC or a converter.

 

Or maybe is it more convenient to develop a Y spitter that fulfill the need of isolation between the two (or even 3) sources powered from the LPS-1.

 

And will such a possible solution or option, save enough money?

I'm thinking well below 50% of a LPS-1.

 

The entire circuit of the LPS-1 is what makes it isolated, so in order to have two isolated outputs you need two LPS-1 circuits, the only thing that could possibly be common is the case. Since it would have to be a larger case to fit two boards, it would cost more so there would be VERY little cost savings, maybe $2 at most. NOT worth it!

 

John S.

[austinpop]

Ah gotcha, I see where you're going.

 

What is the Specificaion of ARIES MINI Power Input – AURALIC LIMITED

 

14v/1.2a is the claim, but I would suspect that this is a) conservative, and b) includes the case where there is an internal drive.

 

I suspect if not using internal drive, the 2 LPS-1's in series will work fine.

 

I confirmed with Xuanqian Wang of Auralic.

 

He said 14V/1.1A was fine as long as you weren't using an internal SATA or external USB disk. In those cases, he said a minimum of 14V/1.2A was required.

 

So there you have it.

 

He also said that in their experience, "the USB drive or internal storage will take a maximum of 5VA power..."

[Bmansr1]

recently got the LPS-1 for use with MR/FMC config with Mac Mini server and Schitt Multibit BiFrost DAC - got Wireworld Starlight CAT8 ethernet cables to the MR and Mac but while the cables snap into the downstream FMC and MR, it fits loosely (no snap) in the Mac Mini (2013) - this a common problem? any other quality/shielded cable alternatives?

[Superdad]

recently got the LPS-1 for use with MR/FMC config with Mac Mini server and Schitt Multibit BiFrost DAC - got Wireworld Starlight CAT8 ethernet cables to the MR and Mac but while the cables snap into the downstream FMC and MR, it fits loosely (no snap) in the Mac Mini (2013) - this a common problem? any other quality/shielded cable alternatives?

 

I see this is your first post. Welcome to CA! (and thanks again for buying an LPS-1 )

 

Are you speaking of the fit of your Wireworld Ethernet cable into the Mac mini's Ethernet jack? Does it not insert far enough for the usual RJ45 tab to click and hold it? Or is there not a tab on your Ethernet plug? Would seem the sort of thing to take up with Wireworld as all my Ethernet cables fit and snap securely into all the Mac minis I've had around here.

 

If you are looking for a very good quality (and good sounding) affordable Ethernet cable, look no further than the BlueJeans/Belden CAT6A. It is shielded, but the shields are not tied at either end--which is better for preserving isolation. Amazon even sells them, but you have more choice of colors direct from BlueJeansCables.com. Be advised, their CAT6A is pretty stiff.

 

Best,

 

--Alex C.

[Bmansr1]

Alex - thanks for the very prompt response - working with Wireworld now and ordered some BJC - looking to get a JS and MMK but will contact you off line - thanks again

[str-1]

Actually, I'm now wondering whether I would get better overall sound quality if I left the LPS-1 powering only the mRendu and getting an iFi iPower for the MC210CS. Would this be better than sharing one LPS-1 between the mRendu a MC110CS? Getting an iPower (12v) for the switch did nice things to the sound. I don't really want to go to jthe expense of another LPS-1 if I can help it - hoping for a nice uplift in sound quality for about £100 or less.

 

Have now tried it both ways, and for me the LPS-1 driving both the mRendu and a TP-Link MC110CS fmc gives better SQ than just using the LPS-1 with the mR and driving the fmc with an iFi iPower. Also worked with the Gigabit MC210CS but the LPS-1 did run very hot. Now only warm+.

 

Interestingly, I did on one occasion experience the static with using the cheap dc splitter reported earlier by d_elm, but only that one occasion, and that was with the Gigabit fmc.