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UltraCap™ LPS-1 Operation and Pre-purchase thread


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Since the first UltraCap LPS-1 units will begin arriving to USA buyers this week (with all first-batch overseas orders departing today), it makes sense to start a thread where people can post their questions, comments, concerns, etc., about our groundbreaking little supply.

 

This can also be the place for prospective buyers to ask questions--to both UpTone and the LPS-1 user base--about use and applicability of the product for their music systems.

 

We have one favor to ask: If you wish to report on you use and listening experience with the LPS-1, please do so in the UltraCap LPS-1 LISTENING IMPRESSIONS thread.

 

Thanks very much,

 

--Alex C.

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My mutec 3+ USB uses a 6.3v meanwell power supply. Not sure how many amps. Will I be able to use the lps-1 for it?

 

As you know (but others here may not), the Mutec has an open-frame Mean Well SMPS mounted inside the unit. And it seems that you are considering doing as some have done--removing that internal supply and feeding it with a clean, external LPS.

 

Based on photos and comparisons to photos of the various Mean Well NFM series, I suspect that your Mutec has the NFM-15-5 (seen here: NFM-15-MEAN WELL Switching Power Supply Manufacturer).

 

So while it may actually be a 5V supply instead of 6.3V, that really does not matter as the Mutec's on board regulators should be fine even from 7V (one of the LPS-1's settings: it offers 3.3V, 5V, and 7V).

 

The more important question is how much current the Mutec actually draws. The Mean Well NFM-15-5 is a 15 watt supply, and the LPS-1 maxes out at about 7.5W. But the Mutec may not even draw that much. The only way to know would be to disconnect the positive leg of the MeanWell and put an ammeter/multimeter in line between that PS wire and the connector pin it was plugged into. That will--with the Mutec powered and running--show you its true current draw. If it is 1 amp or less, then yes, the LPS-1 could readily power your Mutec clock/converter.

 

900x900px-LL-2c4cdbd2_FullnoUSB_zpscfsip1ik1.jpeg

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Two other questions...

1) Anyone using this with FMC devices? Specifically, I'd like to know if a single LPS-1 could drive two FMC's.

2) As the LPS-1 is a single output device, how would I get it to drive two components in the first place? Do I need a different cable?

 

1) Pretty early as the post office is just starting to deliver units in the USA today. And while it may be possible to power two fibre-media-converters with a single LPS-1 (provided the pair does not exceed the modest current capabilities of our supply), it might not be desirable as the point of FMCs is the galvanic isolation. In a way, running both ends from one LPS--even one that is 100% floated/isolation such as the LPS-1) might defeat some aspect of the fiber connection.

 

2) To attempt to power two devices with a single UltraCap LPS-1, all you need is a DC 'Y' cable/splitter such as this: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B007Q8IKRE/

That one assumes the devices you want to power are close together (so you run our included 70cm 5.5mm x 2.1mm cable to the 'Y' cord); if the devices to be powered are far apart, then one of these would be more appropriate: https://www.amazon.com/1-Male-2-1mm-5-5mm-2-Female-Adapter/dp/B0059MYIQG . Then you would need another male/male DC cable.

 

Hope that helps.

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Hi,

Enjoying my LPS-1 so far. I have a rather trivial request, - either of Alex or the community....

 

Would either UPTone make, or is there a cable to buy, that could be shorter than the provided length cable with the 2 X 2.1mm connectors?

I am betting that there are others beside myself that have the microRendu (or whatever device) very close to the LPS-1, and don't need a long cable.

 

Thanks

 

I love these sorts of little challenges!

 

While we are not going to have a bunch of short cables made (I had to buy 1,000 and wait several months for the cost 70cm 16awg coax cord that ships with the LPS-1), here is what I found in a quick search:

 

 

A 6-inch with 5.5mm x 2.1mm both ends (can't tell the wire gauge, but I am sure it is fine for 1A)

6 inch 2.1MM PLUG TO 2.1MM PLUG, DC POWER SUPPLY ADAPTOR DC-2X-2 REPLACEMENT 1.5FT

 

A 10cm cable with 2.1mm one and and 2.5mm the other (great price for 10 pieces; one could then use an adaptor to reduce the 2.5 to 2.1, though 2.5mm plugs work okay in 2.1mm sockets--just not very tight)

https://www.aliexpress.com/store/product/10pcs-10cm-Short-DC-5-5x2-5mm-Male-Plug-L-shape-Conversion-Cable-to-DC-5/1169490_1966987907.html

 

A company that custom makes them in any length you want--and for cheap. Not sure of the wire gauge:

https://reverb.com/item/2862197-tight-squeeze-cables-2-1mm-standard-dc-pedal-power-cable-choose-your-own-length-3-48

 

And then it hit me, the ultimate short cable for an UltraCap LPS-1/microRendu match up is not even a cable! It's a solid adapter. Turn the microRendu on edge (self-cools better that way anyway;maybe make a little stand) and plug it right to the LPS-1s output! I checked, and there is zero interference--the microRendu's Ethernet jack will be well above the top of the LPS-1.

https://www.jaycar.co.nz/2-1mm-dc-plug-to-2-1mm-dc-plug-adaptor/p/PA3707

 

I am sure there is a USA source for this adaptor, I'm just out of time to look right now.

 

Have a great weekend everyone.

Thanks much and enjoy the music!

 

--Alex C.

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Righto then, I'm off to jaycar in the morning to get a couple of these adaptors! Advance prep for my near future revamp of the digital setup, urendu, lps-1 et al ...

 

By the way, for those of you here in the states, I did find the same sort of male/male DC 2.1mm adapter on Amazon (Prime even):

https://www.amazon.com/2-1mm-5-5mm-power-cable-coupler/dp/B017C5JQ1E

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Hi Gang:

 

While I appreciate the various side conversations about usage, tweaks, etc., there are going to be a LOT of new people coming here to read and ask questions about the use of the UltraCap LPS-1. Especially after the first formal editor review from another site hits next week. :)

 

I did make two threads--which are actively carrying on--for just the sort of topics you are chatting about. Please continue over at either the "LPS-1 Troubleshooting, system grounding, etc." thread,

or at the aptly named "LPS-1 Thread that off-topic posts get tossed into..."

 

The latter is where I just judiciously moved a few recent ones from here.

 

Thanks for understanding.

 

Have a great weekend.

 

--Alex C.

 

P.S. We are 2/3rds moved into our new space, and we are still on track to ship most all of the end-of-October-promised orders on time by mid-week. :)

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I ordered a second LPS-1 to use with a TP-Link MC220L FMC. Before ordering, I confirmed that the FMC takes a 5V/1A from an online manual or spec sheet. But when I pulled the TP-Link power adapter, I see it is actually a 9V/600mA. So apparently the online PDF document was incorrect.

 

Is anyone using the LPS-1 with the MC200L?

 

Alex, would be any harm running the FMC with the LPS-1 at 7V instead of the 9V?

 

It should be fine. 9V/600mA is 5.4 watts; 5V/1A is 5 watts; LPS-1 7V/1A is 7 watts. The TP-Link will be stepping down the 9V to 3.3, 1.2V, etc. internally. They probably switched to the 9V/600mA unit to save a few pennies. Similar reason you see laptops running off 18V adapters--and less current (externally anyway) at higher voltages.

 

Oh, and thanks again for your orders!

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I find the best way to see the marking is to take several cellphone pictures at maximum magnification at different angles both with and without flash. 4-6 shots will almost always yield a good picture of the markings.

 

Oh Greg, you must get this really great USB "microscope": https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00PEZ3GMK

 

John and I each have one and it is fantastic for board shots and super macro stuff.

 

Last month I found a solder bridge on a REGEN hub chip and took this shot for our board house:

 

Photo on 9-20-16 at 11.43 AM.jpg

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Just wanted to add a few more devices to the list of those confirmed by users as working well--and sounding great--with the LPS-1.

 

Over in another thread, this post a user confirms the sMS-200, and someone wrote me about his powering of both the PS Audio LANRover and USB REGEN off a single LPS-1.

 

And Jesus from Sonore wanted me to mention that the little SonicOrbiter SE is of course an easy load for our ultracap supply.

 

Oh, and here is a link Michael Lavorgna's review at AudioStream. Michael bought one at full price, waited in line just like everyone else, and even declined my offer of a modest "industry accommodation discount" that I wanted to give him. What a guy. (But he can't stop me from sending him a nice bottle of something.) :)

 

Have a great weekend all.

 

--Alex C.

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Anyone know if the LPS-1 can power a Microrendu + Resonessence Concero HD DAC (USB powered)?

 

Should be totally fine.

 

USB 2.0 devices (and that includes bus-powered DACs) are, by the USB spec not permitted to draw more than 500mA (0.5 amps) from the bus. The microRendu itself is a real power miser, so even when it is having a bus-powered DAC/headphone drawing from it, the total current demand is still less than the UltraCap LPS-1's 1-amp rating.

 

See this post with pics of my running and measuring current draw of both the microRendu alone and the microRendu powering an iFi micro iDSD bus -powered DAC/headphone amp.

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Hi Alex,

 

I sent you a message regarding your custom cable on your website contact page and have not heard back. Did you get it?

 

Thanks,

 

Bob

 

Hi Bob: Sorry, am still (always) playing catch up on e-mail. Did see your message, but guess I skipped over it for a bit as your next LPS-1 is in the December 9th-promised batch. Am replying now.

--Alex C.

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It may be that one lps-1 can power both a microRendu and a microIDSD. If not, then you need a split usb cable like an LHLabs 2g to plug into the second lps-1.

 

My guess is that this little system will sound great.

 

It can, and it indeed sounds great. See this post of the LPS-1 happily powering the microRendu powering the iFi iDSD DAC/headphone amp.

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Hi Alex

 

I've reading in the Uptone sponsored forum about issues with using the ifi 9 Volt wall wort to power the LPS-1 (which I have on order). Essentially if I remember correctly you tested one which says is provides 1.5 Amp and one which provides 2.0 Amps and found the one which indicated 1.5 amps provided a max of 1.6 amps.

 

So I emailed ifi support and they responded saying that all of their 9 Volt wall worts are the same and initially they went with a 1.5 Amp value and after certification they realized a 2.0 Amp certification was okay.

 

I believe you, but am not sure what to do based on ifi's response. I did order a Meanwell so I'm covered regardless. I'm not sure of how I can verify the maximum load "my" ifi can handle. Is there a simple way to do this without damaging anything (i.e. trying and seeing what happens) or a relatively simple testing procedure.

 

Hi Barry:

 

Please remember that these SMPS units (including the Mean Well and iFi) are cheap items. Knowing how many parts are in them and their wholesale cost--upon which both the manufacturer and distributor make a profit margin--it is amazing that they work at all. So sample to-sample variation is to be expected.

 

All I know is that the one iFi iPower 9V unit I have which is marked as 1.5A does indeed crap out at 1.6A--which is not enough to allow the UltraCap LPS-1 to operate in its upper-current range (from 0.5A to 1.1A).

 

And John Swenson has an iFi iPower 9V marked at 2.0A and it is fine.

 

Honestly though, as I have said before, people ought to find some other use for their iPower units than energizing the LPS-1. The output of the feed supply has zero influence on the output of the LPS-1, and the iFi is no more or less harmful on the wall side than any other SMPS. (Again, the fact that the LPS-1 blocks the leakage current from SMPS units makes them quite benign anyway.)

 

Hope that helps a bit.

 

--Alex C.

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http://www.musicalfidelity.com/uploads/catalogerfiles/mx-dac/4_MX-DAC_manual_issue_1.pdf

 

Page 6 state less than 1 watt at max. Standby less than 0,25 W.

 

So 5V x 2A = 10W, and it uses less than 10% of what's available.

 

I expect you can make the conclusion yourself:)

(If my math is done right).

 

While I do suspect that the LPS-1 may be fine for the Musical Fidelity MX-DAC, that power consumption spec is for AC consumption by whatever PS is included with the DAC. Does not directly correlate to DC current draw.

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Hi everyone,

 

Anyone tried UltraCap LPS-1 with =

 

- SOTM PCIe USB card (tX-USBexp) ?

or

- SOTM new player (sMS-200) ?

 

Yes, there are LPS-1 owners who have powered their sMS-200 with it with excellent results. Separarately, we also know of people powering their PCIe USB cards with the LPS-1.

 

Maybe do some searches in the Listening Impressions thread (I'm typing on my phone right now or I'd find some to link to).

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If the DAC has an external power port, and will run at 7V and takes 1/2A or less, you CAN use a Y cable from an LPS-1 to drive both the microRendu and the DAC. This is the way I have my setup and it works VERY well.

 

 

 

Seeing how little current is drawn by the microRendu--when it is not in turn powering a VBUS-powered DAC (see photo of the mR drawing just 0.16A), I'd say folks will be able to use a "Y" cable to power a DAC using up to about 0.8A (800mA) without any problem.

 

I test every LPS-1 board to 1.1A. Some make it to 1.15A, some to just 1.10A. Anything under that and we re-flash them with software to bring their "trigger-point" up.

 

By the way, someone just wrote to me that they are happily powering both the microRendu and an FMC from a single LPS-1.

 

Oh, I have to run. Am mailing off LPS-1 units to the chief engineer of MBL in Germany, and to the Netherlands reviewer Hans Beekhuyzen.

 

Work is proceeding a bit slow today as one channel of the electronic DC load machine I use for testing and sorting LPS-1s just died. One board at a time now...

 

Have a nice weekend everyone. LPS-1 should be showing up for many more folks today (or next week or so for those overseas) as we finished shipping off all the November 18th-promsed units--two days ahead of schedule.

 

All you December 9th people are coming up, and I think we will be a little ahead with those too. :)

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I take it the same would apply to Regen/DAC?

 

Yes, very much so. Though see my comment above about the low current draw of the microRendu. Applies even more so to a REGEN that does not have to power a DAC. While a microRendu that is not powering a DAC, etc. draws less than 0.2A, draw of a REGEN (just powering its hub chip and clock) is only about 0.06A.

Both leave plenty of LPS-1 current capability for a DAC or such.

 

And a REGEN that is not called upon to provide VBUS power can itself run fine from 5V. So in that instance one could put a 'Y' cable on an LPS-1 and provide 5V to something else as well. I don't recall if the microRendu (without being called upon for VBUS power) can run from 5V. John would of course know--or I'll try it when I have a chance.

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No it can't. I think that is quite clear here :

SONORE microRendu Manual

6-9 V

 

If not, that web page should to be updated !

 

You need to understand that as manufacturers, we mark our products for the recommended input voltage range that will work with all circumstances.

 

As I clearly said, and same as with the REGEN, 5V is acceptable ONLY if the attached DAC does not draw ANY VBUS power. So the REGEN is marked for 6-8V, 9V is fine, and there is a whole FAQ on our website that explains how, why, and when it is okay to operate it with 5V or 12V.

 

Now I will not speak for John or Sonore with regards to technically acceptable operating voltage range, but prompted by your post I set my LPS-1 to 5V and connected the MicroRendu. It seems happy--even running into my non-VBUS-using DAC.

 

I can tell you that external power supply issues, questions, and debate are the sorts of thing that drive manufacturers crazy (I have had several tell me so). Of course now I am in the PS business, so it can not be avoided. ;)

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My intent all along was to power my W4S RUR (per specs: takes 6-9V) with the LPS-1 set to 7V. My DAC, the Ayre Codex has an AC power input, but surprisingly also expects USB 5V Vbus power. I think it uses the AC input for its headphone amp section.

 

Anyway, the question is: if I try to share the LPS-1 to power both the RUR with a Vbus2 isolator on the output, and as a USB power injector to my DAC, then it seems I have 2 choices:

  • set the LPS-1 to 7V, and check if the Codex can tolerate 7V on the USB Vbus; OR
  • set the LPS-1 to 5V, and check it the RUR will operate at 5V, especially if it's not powering the DAC due to the Vbus2 isolator.

 

Frankly both options make me a bit nervous!

 

For now I will just try the RUR powered by LPS-1 feeding the DAC, and see. I need to order a Y-cable, to try the above, if I dare.

 

There is not a good reason for you to attempt either of the above! (and you stand a chance of ruining something)

While the W4S Recovery's 5VBUS output regs are not as clean as the expensive TI TPS7A4700 we use in both the REGEN and the LPS-1, you will be worse off by adding cables connectors, etc, to the USB data chain.

 

I think some of you are putting too much emphasis on the 5VBUS when isolation of other forms and preservation of data signal integrity and impedance match are much more important.

 

--Alex C.

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  • 2 weeks later...
Thanks for sharing this information. Let's see if my order from the December 9th batch will be delivered in The Netherlands before Christmas [emoji7]

 

I just tracked a few shipments to Netherlands from early- to mid-November, and they all got delivered in about 10 days (some faster). So even with holiday slowdown due to parcel volume, I am confident your will have yours in your hands well before Christmas.

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  • 3 weeks later...
Hi Superdad,

 

I wonder what is the maximum safe input voltage supply to the LPS-1? I have a high quality 19V 6A LPS sitting idle which I think I can adjust it down to 17V so I wonder if I can use it to power my two LPS-1.

 

Thanks.

 

12V really is the max. Anything more and you WILL permanently damage it!

 

 

Sent from my iPad using Computer Audiophile

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Well, for now I do not care how long it is. I just want to save my life! ;) Anyway, Oyiade plugs and Acoustic Revive wires...How bad can it be..even if it is a couple of cm longer?

The problem with the Furutech Alpha-18 hook up wire is the gauge. It is simply very limited space between the positive and negative wires inside the plugs. For a professional this might be a walk in the park...but for me it is like landing on the moon. Not for my personality at all!

 

 

You mean you had a hard time getting your solder joints on the Oyaide plugs to look like this?

 

UpTone Oyaide Belden.jpg

 

And those are four 18awg wires! Each paired to a whopping 15awg. And I one end, I tie the shield, which is another 18awg conductor.

 

Don't feel too bad, it took me a long time to get really good at making them (it's all in the prep). Here is a pile I did one month--before Finally decided I'd had enough and convinced an aerospace cable assembly firm to assemble them for us. They charge a lot, but I gained back 20+ hours of my life. They are also why I don't offer custom lengths or hold any stock of the Oyaide plugs any longer (though I am am the largest importer of the Oyaide DC-2.xG in the USA as far as I know).

 

P1080732.JPG

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I'll ask here, since it came up in a non Uptone thread:

 

Has anyone actually used 2 LPS-1's in series, and if so, is there a commercially available cable or adapter to make that work?

 

All I've seen discussed are DIY cables, which I understand, but is not feasible for a lot of us.

 

Links welcomed.

 

Hi Rajiv:

 

Sorry, not ignoring your question, I'm just still getting over a nasty cold and also juggling time with family (kids home from college) and unpleasant year-end accounting chores.

 

"Serial DC-barrel Y cables":

Nobody on the planet offers such a thing pre-made (though Larry's link to some crazy heavy-duty variant for RC cars was certainly interesting.

 

The problem is, one would not want to get a series-wired Y cable mixed up with a standard Y cable or damage would result to devices. So custom-made is going to be the only route.

 

So here is the very easiest way--without any soldering--to make a series hook-up of two LPS-1s to go for higher voltages (still at 1.1A total).

Take 2 of these (sold in packs of 10 for less than $5): https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0058RLD9C

 

And 1 zip-cord style DC plug cable (like this, but you only need one and you would likely want it longer):https://www.amazon.com/Amview-10pcs-Pigtails-Cables-Camera/dp/B00HSSW1GS

 

And one short piece of the same gauge wire to use as a jumper.

 

Screw the jumper wire into the "+" terminal of one of the CCTV screw-terminal plugs, and the other end of same into the "-" terminal of the other plug; Then unzip the long cable a little and screw its wires to the still empty +/- terminals of the plugs.

BE SURE TO SCREW THE CENTER PIN's WIRE TO THE AVAILABLE PLUS TERMINAL!

 

Please use a multimeter to check your work and the output before plugging into your device. We take no responsibility for damage caused by DIY cables.

 

Here is a pic of one that took me 2 minutes to make:

 

IMG_1077 copy.jpg

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