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Complicated (at least for me) connection question


rfj1862
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Not sure if I'm in the right place but I really could use some guidance!

 

I have a Peachtree Nova integrated. Currently it is hooked up conventionally--preamp outs to the sub, speaker cables to the satellites.

 

Since I was lucky enough to inherit a McIntosh MC275, I'd like to utilize the Peachtree as a preamp only, which is feasible using the pre outs.

 

So if the pre outs are taken up by the amplifier, how do I run the powered sub? I'm going to take a guess and say from the speaker outputs on the preamp? If so, how do I sum the left and right channels? Two sets of spades (red left/red right to red sub, black left/black right to black sub)?

 

Or can I use a Y cable that splits the preamp out, so that one leg of the Y goes to the amp and the second leg goes to the sub?

 

Any thoughts would be greatly appreciated!

 

John

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Or can I use a Y cable that splits the preamp out, so that one leg of the Y goes to the amp and the second leg goes to the sub?

 

Any thoughts would be greatly appreciated!

 

John

 

Y cable us probably your best bet from that amp. Of course a dedicated sub out is your ideal but not available.

 

One other option is using a better sub such as a REL which does in fact piggy back on speaker outputs (they sum it uniquely with their cable and different input on their subs).

This to me is the best method as it lets your speakers still run as full range as they can at the same time reinforcing signal below their output.

David

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Thanks David. It's actually a little more complex than I let on...I'm using Harrison Labs FMODs as well--a high pass 12 db/oct at 100 hz to the satellites and a low pass 12 db/oct at 100 hz into the sub, so the preamp splitter solution you suggested will work best. I don't want my satellites (which are actually Omega Compact Alnico Monitors) to go full-range.

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"I'm going to take a guess and say from the speaker outputs on the preamp?"

 

There are no speaker outputs on a preamp. What kind of sub do you have?

 

Yes, yes....I misspoke. It's an integrated amp but I'll be using it as a preamp. So there will still be a signal at the speaker terminals.

 

The sub is a 10" Velodyne.

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Yes, yes....I misspoke. It's an integrated amp but I'll be using it as a preamp. So there will still be a signal at the speaker terminals.

 

The sub is a 10" Velodyne.

 

What model? There can be several different types of connectors. You may be able run speaker cable from the binding post on the speaker to binding posts on the sub. Also, you should try the new amp with your speakers first, before spending any money. Any time you work with speakers as efficient as your Omegas's, there's always the possibility of getting some gain related noise.

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Thanks David. It's actually a little more complex than I let on...I'm using Harrison Labs FMODs as well--a high pass 12 db/oct at 100 hz to the satellites and a low pass 12 db/oct at 100 hz into the sub, so the preamp splitter solution you suggested will work best. I don't want my satellites (which are actually Omega Compact Alnico Monitors) to go full-range.

 

Sounds like you've got it set then.

David

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  • 2 weeks later...
Thanks David. It's actually a little more complex than I let on...I'm using Harrison Labs FMODs as well--a high pass 12 db/oct at 100 hz to the satellites and a low pass 12 db/oct at 100 hz into the sub, so the preamp splitter solution you suggested will work best. I don't want my satellites (which are actually Omega Compact Alnico Monitors) to go full-range.

 

Which Velodyne sub do you have? I have their HGS-10 and it has both pre inputs and outputs w/ an adjustable cross-over point (but no speaker-level inputs). If your sub has speaker-level inputs, then you could just use those (either from the Peachtree or a second set of cables from the MC275) and the sub's built-in cross-over adjustment.

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