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Next step up of Power Amp


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He has Paradigm 100 S series speakers and asked for a "step up". He did not ask for more power. His speakers are 92db efficiency and according to Paradigm need between 15 to 350 watts. More watts is not always better and class A amps often sound a lot better than class AB amps at a fraction of class AB output.

 

I am running 93db speakers in a good sized room with 10 watt First Watt SIT2's and they sound great. I agree that these would be outside of his budget. Actually he could find older First Watt amps around his budget and definitely could find great Class D amps for that price.

 

Although a fairly efficient design, (JA at Stereophile measured them at 89db) they are also a fairly demanding load with impedance dropping to 3 ohms at 90hz and running under 4 thru a large portion of the bass range. Probably not a good match for a First Watt or any low power amp that can't supply good power and control.

Paradigm Reference Studio/100 v.2 loudspeaker Measurements | Stereophile.com

 

Jamesroy, All together you should have a great sounding system and with a upgrade budget of under $900 I really can't think of a amp upgrade that would supply any significant improvement in your sound quality.

I would spend a bit of that budget on some great music to enjoy. Then maybe put the rest away for a future upgrade of your speakers. Yours are great, but there are better. Either way, amp or speakers, IMHO a detectable improvement is more than just $900 away.

Just my 2 cents,

Cent' Anni

 

Edit, Jud had a good idea in looking to your room. Your budget and some learning curve could easily get you into some miniDSP room correction and provide a real upgrade to your sound quality reproduction.

https://www.minidsp.com/

"The gullibility of audiophiles is what astonishes me the most, even after all these years. How is it possible, how did it ever happen, that they trust fairy-tale purveyors and mystic gurus more than reliable sources of scientific information?"

Peter Aczel - The Audio Critic

nomqa.webp.aa713f2bb9e304522011cdb2d2ca907d.webp  R.I.P. MQA 2014-2023: Hyped product thanks to uneducated, uncritical advocates & captured press.

 

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+1

 

... to Jud and others who have recommended that the OP consider Class D amplification.

 

I had a "Class D Audio" (brand) amplifier (SDS-470CP) that offers excellent sound and superb value. This amp, which I believe is their top of the line, comes in under the requested budget (brand new) and also has 300 wpc at 8 ohms and more importantly 600 wpc at 4 ohms.

 

I was perfectly happy with the sound I was getting, but I'd heard that the Class D (technology) amps made by Hypex were the best Class D amps available and they compare favorably to the better amps out there of all kinds. I purchased a pair of used Hypex Class D monoblocks and was pleased to find that they are indeed superior across the board, but if my budget wouldn't allow them, I'd be very happy with the amp I had before.

 

I strongly recommend actually buying amplifiers (if you can't borrow them), new or used, with the option to return or resell them. It's the only way to really know how a piece will sound with your other gear, in your room and according to your preferences. Ideally, buy two at once and keep the better of them. That method gives me a lot more comfort that I made the right decision for me, as opposed to relying solely on recommendations and specs.

Roon Server: Core i7-3770S, WS2012 + AO => HQP Server: Core, i7-9700K, HQPlayer OS => NAA: Celeron NUC, HQP NAA => ISO Regen with UltraCap LPS 1.2 => Mapleshade USB Cable => Lampizator L4 DSD-Only Balanced DAC Preamp => Blue Jeans Belden Balanced Cables => Mivera PurePower SE Amp => Magnepan 3.7i

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Although a fairly efficient design, (JA at Stereophile measured them at 89db) they are also a fairly demanding load with impedance dropping to 3 ohms at 90hz and running under 4 thru a large portion of the bass range. Probably not a good match for a First Watt or any low power amp that can't supply good power and control.

Paradigm Reference Studio/100 v.2 loudspeaker Measurements | Stereophile.com

 

Jamesroy, All together you should have a great sounding system and with a upgrade budget of under $900 I really can't think of a amp upgrade that would supply any significant improvement in your sound quality.

I would spend a bit of that budget on some great music to enjoy. Then maybe put the rest away for a future upgrade of your speakers. Yours are great, but there are better. Either way, amp or speakers, IMHO a detectable improvement is more than just $900 away.

Just my 2 cents,

Cent' Anni

 

Edit, Jud had a good idea in looking to your room. Your budget and some learning curve could easily get you into some miniDSP room correction and provide a real upgrade to your sound quality reproduction.

https://www.minidsp.com/

Thanks all need any Graphic Design work Graphic Design/Photography |

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+1

 

... to Jud and others who have recommended that the OP consider Class D amplification.

 

I had a "Class D Audio" (brand) amplifier (SDS-470CP) that offers excellent sound and superb value. This amp, which I believe is their top of the line, comes in under the requested budget (brand new) and also has 300 wpc at 8 ohms and more importantly 600 wpc at 4 ohms.

 

I was perfectly happy with the sound I was getting, but I'd heard that the Class D (technology) amps made by Hypex were the best Class D amps available and they compare favorably to the better amps out there of all kinds. I purchased a pair of used Hypex Class D monoblocks and was pleased to find that they are indeed superior across the board, but if my budget wouldn't allow them, I'd be very happy with the amp I had before.

 

I strongly recommend actually buying amplifiers (if you can't borrow them), new or used, with the option to return or resell them. It's the only way to really know how a piece will sound with your other gear, in your room and according to your preferences. Ideally, buy two at once and keep the better of them. That method gives me a lot more comfort that I made the right decision for me, as opposed to relying solely on recommendations and specs.

If you like the sound of your amplifier in general why don't you try playing around on the A/C side of things. Like trying to replace you outlets with some Furutech gtx-g. In three systems that I have heard with these switched in was an absolute revelation. 3D-er soundstage while putting a polish and overall natural sound. On all three systems we could play the music louder while enjoying lower ear fatigue. For the money you want to lay down I would say this is your best bang for the Buck.

 

Sent from my Nexus 4 using Tapatalk

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If you like the sound of your amplifier in general why don't you try playing around on the A/C side of things. Like trying to replace you outlets with some Furutech gtx-g. In three systems that I have heard with these switched in was an absolute revelation. 3D-er soundstage while putting a polish and overall natural sound. On all three systems we could play the music louder while enjoying lower ear fatigue. For the money you want to lay down I would say this is your best bang for the Buck.

 

Sent from my Nexus 4 using Tapatalk

Thanks but 135 bucks wow

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Thanks Ok I have one outlet with two plug or inputs whatever. So my Parasound preamp is straight into the wall everything else is in a surge protector and that into the wall. Which should I not put into surge protector and straight into wall outlet, Preamp, power amp? Thanks

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Thanks Ok I have one outlet with two plug or inputs whatever. So my Parasound preamp is straight into the wall everything else is in a surge protector and that into the wall. Which should I not put into surge protector and straight into wall outlet, Preamp, power amp? Thanks

Try different combinations such as: pre and amp straight in wall, all in wall/no surge etc. Have fun and you may be surprised.

 

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Retired from Sandia National Lab's as a Graphic designer/Photographer. I freelance Graphic Design Graphic Design/Photography |

Also a guitar player not pro just in my home having fun using Logic Pro

LOL! That is funny how something written can be interpreted another way. I meant what you will do for your sound system; either you change amp our play on the A/C side.... I am still laughing as I write this! This had made my day! Thanks!

 

Sent from my Nexus 4 using Tapatalk

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Retired from Sandia National Lab's as a Graphic designer/Photographer. I freelance Graphic Design Graphic Design/Photography |

Also a guitar player not pro just in my home having fun using Logic Pro

 

I figured that's what Sixxfeet meant, but nice to hear about your career anyway. Knew a guy who worked at Sandia with high temperature superconductors.

One never knows, do one? - Fats Waller

The fairest thing we can experience is the mysterious. It is the fundamental emotion which stands at the cradle of true art and true science. - Einstein

Computer, Audirvana -> optical Ethernet to Fitlet3 -> Fibbr Alpha Optical USB -> iFi NEO iDSD DAC -> Apollon Audio 1ET400A Mini (Purifi based) -> Vandersteen 3A Signature.

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LOL! That is funny how something written can be interpreted another way. I meant what you will do for your sound system; either you change amp our play on the A/C side.... I am still laughing as I write this! This had made my day! Thanks!

 

Sent from my Nexus 4 using Tapatalk

I meant to do that...;)

I'm satisfied with my B&K amp for now too expensive to get a new one and it difficult for me to spend 150.00 on an AC outlet that was recommended GTX-D(R)/(G) | FURUTECH

I'm relieved I made your day.

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I meant to do that...;)

I'm satisfied with my B&K amp for now too expensive to get a new one and it difficult for me to spend 150.00 on an AC outlet that was recommended GTX-D(R)/(G) | FURUTECH

I'm relieved I made your day.

Any new Hypex amp is going to kill your class AB B&K amp. And a spec grade or Hubbell hospital grade wall outlet and fatter wire to the breaker will make a difference. You said 900 bucks, you have your answer, so get them or forget the whole thread. A bargain Hypex class D will *stomp* on almost any class AB amp under $5k.

Mac Mini 2012 with 2.3 GHz i5 CPU and 16GB RAM running newest OS10.9x and Signalyst HQ Player software (occasionally JRMC), ethernet to Cisco SG100-08 GigE switch, ethernet to SOtM SMS100 Miniserver in audio room, sending via short 1/2 meter AQ Cinnamon USB to Oppo 105D, feeding balanced outputs to 2x Bel Canto S300 amps which vertically biamp ATC SCM20SL speakers, 2x Velodyne DD12+ subs. Each side is mounted vertically on 3-tiered Sound Anchor ADJ2 stands: ATC (top), amp (middle), sub (bottom), Mogami, Koala, Nordost, Mosaic cables, split at the preamp outputs with splitters. All transducers are thoroughly and lovingly time aligned for the listening position.

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Any new Hypex amp is going to kill your class AB B&K amp. And a spec grade or Hubbell hospital grade wall outlet and fatter wire to the breaker will make a difference. You said 900 bucks, you have your answer, so get them or forget the whole thread. A bargain Hypex class D will *stomp* on almost any class AB amp under $5k.

Thanks but I can't find a site that sales them Hypex class D. To get a price.

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Any new Hypex amp is going to kill your class AB B&K amp. And a spec grade or Hubbell hospital grade wall outlet and fatter wire to the breaker will make a difference. You said 900 bucks, you have your answer, so get them or forget the whole thread. A bargain Hypex class D will *stomp* on almost any class AB amp under $5k.

That's just silly. Any difference the Hypex amp might make would be extremely subtle and probably hard to detect in a bias controled blind listening test. Using descriptions as kill and stomp as best left only to speaker of room EQ changes.

"The gullibility of audiophiles is what astonishes me the most, even after all these years. How is it possible, how did it ever happen, that they trust fairy-tale purveyors and mystic gurus more than reliable sources of scientific information?"

Peter Aczel - The Audio Critic

nomqa.webp.aa713f2bb9e304522011cdb2d2ca907d.webp  R.I.P. MQA 2014-2023: Hyped product thanks to uneducated, uncritical advocates & captured press.

 

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That's just silly. Any difference the Hypex amp might make would be extremely subtle and probably hard to detect in a bias controled blind listening test. Using descriptions as kill and stomp as best left only to speaker or room EQ changes.

 

Interesting way to put it, as Sam worked for a speaker company! :)

One never knows, do one? - Fats Waller

The fairest thing we can experience is the mysterious. It is the fundamental emotion which stands at the cradle of true art and true science. - Einstein

Computer, Audirvana -> optical Ethernet to Fitlet3 -> Fibbr Alpha Optical USB -> iFi NEO iDSD DAC -> Apollon Audio 1ET400A Mini (Purifi based) -> Vandersteen 3A Signature.

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Any new Hypex amp is going to kill your class AB B&K amp. And a spec grade or Hubbell hospital grade wall outlet and fatter wire to the breaker will make a difference. You said 900 bucks, you have your answer, so get them or forget the whole thread. A bargain Hypex class D will *stomp* on almost any class AB amp under $5k.

 

I will be the first to admit I haven't been into the class D thing based on past experiences BUT am interested in reports from others with the relatively recent Hypex products who have getting stunning results.

 

I saw some recent write ups regarding "older Hypex" amps at relatively reasonable prices and much more expensive (and heavier) newer Hypex nCore tech.

 

Maybe someone in the know can explain the differences.

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Look here at what many think is the best Ncore value: Hypex Amps, Abrahamsen Audio, IPL Acoustic Speakers

Look here for what users, some with great systems, think: Nord One Up Ncore NC500 amps, Class D ready for prime time ..... - Page 83

 

I'm absolutely loving mine with my new electrostatics, stomped my VTL tubes.

Bob

 

Mac Mini M1 12 volt dc > Roon > HQ Player to DSD 256 > Fibre to EtherRegen w/LPS1.2 and BG7TBL OCXO > Sonore microRendu v1.3 > IsoRegen > Denafrips Iris > i2s  > Denafrips Pontus II > Schiit Freya+ w/ Linlai E-6SN7's >  Nord One Up NCore 500 monoblocks REV D w/SI990Enh op amps > Martin Logan Impression 11A w/ dual Rythmik E15HP2 subs. Supra Cat8, JPS Labs Superconductor+ cables

 

 

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That's just silly. Any difference the Hypex amp might make would be extremely subtle and probably hard to detect in a bias controled blind listening test. Using descriptions as kill and stomp as best left only to speaker of room EQ changes.

Well let's simply disagree here. However, I screwed up and was thinking of Amps built by clasdaudio.com, whoch *aren't* Hypex but have a number of fine Class D characteristics like no crossover notch distortion, excellent IMD performance, and great damping. The Nord amps seem to be the cheapest new Hypex nCore and UcD ones now apart from Hypex kits.

@Jud

 

Thanks. I mostly built amps and preamps, though did a lot of work on our mastering speaker and the Denali, a frame-based modular 3-way unit.

 

I view amps and speakers as unified components even though they can be easily separated. When I hear a system that sounds very fast and eager, I look first at the amps, despite the fact that speakers can be slow. But amps have a million ways to screw up performance: loudspeakers are far simpler in spite of their generally higher cost.

 

Class D amps have become a revolution.

 

Sent from my Nexus 6P using Computer Audiophile mobile app

Mac Mini 2012 with 2.3 GHz i5 CPU and 16GB RAM running newest OS10.9x and Signalyst HQ Player software (occasionally JRMC), ethernet to Cisco SG100-08 GigE switch, ethernet to SOtM SMS100 Miniserver in audio room, sending via short 1/2 meter AQ Cinnamon USB to Oppo 105D, feeding balanced outputs to 2x Bel Canto S300 amps which vertically biamp ATC SCM20SL speakers, 2x Velodyne DD12+ subs. Each side is mounted vertically on 3-tiered Sound Anchor ADJ2 stands: ATC (top), amp (middle), sub (bottom), Mogami, Koala, Nordost, Mosaic cables, split at the preamp outputs with splitters. All transducers are thoroughly and lovingly time aligned for the listening position.

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