AudioDoctors dead simple audio tricks...

[One and a half]

Sounds like a good idea - links or pics so I know exactly what you're thinking of?

 

Ah yup, a Jensen VRD-1FF. Strictly not necessary if there is an antenna only if such luxury exists these days. Essential if using a Cable TV service, or have a Masthead/distribution amplifier which surprise, surprise usually has a wall wart that leaks to ground like a sieve.

 

I have two of these, one for the TV and the other for FM/DAB+ tuners. No hum, highly recommended.

[One and a half]

Balanced power sounds interesting. Anyone have DIY plans for something like that?

 

I tried to use off the shelf 120-0-120V transformers (for US, 60-0-60), but several problems.

 

- The leakage across primary and secondary can vary

- The regulation of the output can vary

- Harmonics reduction was not that great

 

All of which need to be really tight ie low numbers for balanced power to work effectively.

 

It was only after buying the Equitech balanced transformer, that I realised what was missing in the off the shelf transformers and why the performance wasn't there.

 

Unless things have changed in the last two years, Equitech have a really terrible CS and would not recommend them unless you have the patience of a saint, however the technology works very well. For the US, sales are only through dealers/distributors.

If you can find a used one, grab it.

[Jud]

Ah yup, a Jensen VRD-1FF. Strictly not necessary if there is an antenna only if such luxury exists these days. Essential if using a Cable TV service, or have a Masthead/distribution amplifier which surprise, surprise usually has a wall wart that leaks to ground like a sieve.

 

I have two of these, one for the TV and the other for FM/DAB+ tuners. No hum, highly recommended.

 

Thanks, but apparently not to be used for satellite TV systems. (I have DirecTV.)

[rrwwss52]

I use a dedicated 20 amp circuit, and run all audio components through a PS Audio P5. The only things not connected to that circuit is the cooling fans, and ethernet over power modules, switches, etc.

[Jud]

Good news: Have done some temporary fixes/rationalization that have *almost* completely resolved the problem. Everything's plugged into one wall plate now, with the help of an adapter. There are a couple fewer components, one less strip, one or two fewer power cables, and fewer cross-connections on the analog and digital sides.

 

Will provide an updated diagram later.

 

Eventually I plan to take everything down to a couple of power strips and see if this helps further.

 

Edit: I was almost very remiss in neglecting to thank AudioDoctor for inspiring these improvements.

[Jud]

Good news: Have done some temporary fixes/rationalization that have *almost* completely resolved the problem. Everything's plugged into one wall plate now, with the help of an adapter. There are a couple fewer components, one less strip, one or two fewer power cables, and fewer cross-connections on the analog and digital sides.

 

Will provide an updated diagram later.

 

Edit: I was almost very remiss in neglecting to thank AudioDoctor for inspiring these improvements.

 

[Fitzcaraldo215]

I have taken a different tack on these issues for many years. In my former abode, 3x20A circuits powered my entire system. But, they were all in the same outlet box, with identical circuits of equal length, running from 3 duplex outlets to the same breaker box on adjacent breakers and terminals.

 

There was a safety ground issue that seemed to cause some hum problems in certain circumstances. The ground was via the steel shields on the 2 copper wire circuits, probably causing the neutral on copper to have lower potential than the safety ground. I did not measure it, but I ran a short copper wire between all three ground connectors on the 3 duplex outlets inside the outlet box, lowering the resistance to ground by 2/3 and putting all the gear at the same potential for the safety ground. Problem solved. Although, at one point, I did need a "ground trap" on the cable TV feed, once that was also connected to my system. Cable is often at a different ground potential.

 

In my current home, I have 4x20A circuits for the system. They each use 3-wire circuits with cooper grounds, and the circuits are identical in length and terminated on adjacent breakers or terminals in the breaker box about 30 ft. away. All hots are on the same electrical phase. No problems, until I later set up my music PC in an adjacent room powered by a different "house" circuit. There was a ground loop issue on input from the PC. So, a simple 12 ft. heavy extension cord from the PC's UPS, which also powers my NAS and network switches, connected to the bank of 4 main audio circuits did the trick.

 

So, yes, getting each leg of whole system - hot, neutral and ground, each leg to be at their own identical potential across all outlets - is the essential idea. But, you do not necessarily have to do that via a single plug if you are careful about the wiring. I used my main breaker box and multiple outlets. Sub panels can be helpful with multiple outlets, but they are no better than my way, though they may be easier to retrofit to an existing home rather than home runs to the main breaker box. Power strips are fine, too, running to a single outlet from a single power cord. They all can accomplish the same thing.

[artur9]

[ATTACH=CONFIG]27957[/ATTACH]

The difference between the two is astonishing! Kudos!

[AudioDoctor]

Looking good @Jud!