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Updates- Intona High Speed USB Isolator


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To those members interested in the Intona USB Isolator, Daniel asked me to provide a quick update. I thought I would put this in a separate thread because I don't believe there is any thread dedicated to just the Intona Isolator (there are a few threads where the Intona unit is discussed, along with other usb fixer products).

 

Some members (including myself) could not get the Intona to work with a Berkeley Alpha USB-spdif converter. Resolving the issue was a bit more difficult than anticipated so I mailed my Berkeley to Intona in Germany and Daniel was able to fix the compatibility issue. My Intona isolators now work with my Berkeley. Others with the Berkeley will not have to mail the Berkeley to Germany now, because the issue can now be fixed with a firmware update (see below).

 

Also, early on, some members reported compatibility issues with some "audiophile" usb cables. Daniel was able to solve those problems with a firmware update and I believe any usb cable issues are now resolved. My Intonas were already updated when I got them so this was never a problem for me. I've tried several "audiophile" usb cables and all of them work with the Intona.

 

Finally, with respect to firmware updates for the Intona Isolator (for those that have an older Intona unit that may need firmware updates), while you can mail the device back to Germany for a firmware update, that is not necessary. Intona has a field programmer that is in circulation that can be mailed to you and you can update your Intona at home. It is very easy to do.

 

I took a few pics of the field programmer that I used to update my Intonas. Easy to follow instructions are provided by Intona:

 

Intona%201_zpshkzwky1l.jpg

 

Take off the top of the unit:

 

Intona%202_zpsrc3w1iql.jpg

 

Plug in the field programmer and follow the instructions:

 

Intona%203_zpspir6aaw0.jpg

 

 

I remain very impressed with the Intona. I use mine in combination with a W4S RUR, and would also use it in combination with a Regen. A few members seem to prefer using the Intona alone, I find it works best when combined with a Regen or a RUR, so this is highly system dependent. Try for yourself and see what works best for you.

Speaker Room: Lumin U1X | Lampizator Pacific 2 | Viva Linea | Constellation Inspiration Stereo 1.0 | FinkTeam Kim | Revel subs  

Office Headphone System: Lumin U1X | Lampizator Golden Gate 3 | Viva Egoista | Abyss AB1266 Phi TC 

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Excellent post Blake!

 

I will ask Intona if I have an older unit that should be updated.

Source:

*Aurender N100 (no internal disk : LAN optically isolated via FMC with *LPS) > DIY 5cm USB link (5v rail removed / ground lift switch - split for *LPS) > Intona Industrial (injected *LPS / internally shielded with copper tape) > DIY 5cm USB link (5v rail removed / ground lift switch) > W4S Recovery (*LPS) > DIY 2cm USB adaptor (5v rail removed / ground lift switch) > *Auralic VEGA (EXACT : balanced)

 

Control:

*Jeff Rowland CAPRI S2 (balanced)

 

Playback:

2 x Revel B15a subs (balanced) > ATC SCM 50 ASL (balanced - 80Hz HPF from subs)

 

Misc:

*Via Power Inspired AG1500 AC Regenerator

LPS: 3 x Swagman Lab Audiophile Signature Edition (W4S, Intona & FMC)

Storage: QNAP TS-253Pro 2x 3Tb, 8Gb RAM

Cables: DIY heavy gauge solid silver (balanced)

Mains: dedicated distribution board with 5 x 2 socket ring mains, all mains cables: Mark Grant Black Series DSP 2.5 Dual Screen

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Anyone using the Intona with an exaSound DAC?!

Triangle Magellan Concerto 2 < AQ Everest < Vitus Audio SS-010 Mk2 < AQ Dragon High Current < AQ WEL XLR < Chord Qutest DAC w UpTone JS-2 & AQ Dragon Source < AQ Diamond USB < Innuos Phoenix USB w AQ Dragon Source < Aurender N100H & AQ Dragon Source < NetGear GS105GE Switch w UpTone LPS1.2 < Supra CAT8 Ethernet < Gryphon PowerZone w AQ NRG-Wild < Stillpoints UltraSS, Ansuz Darkz D-TC & D2, Omicron Harmonic Stabilizer, Gold Evolution SE & Classic < Furutech FT-SWS (R) < Synergistic Research Orange Quantum Fuse < Solid Tech Hybrid < GigaWatt G-16A 2P Circuit Breaker

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Per correspondence with Daniel a few weeks ago, I got on the list to receive the field programmer and update my unit as it will not work with my Aesthetix Romulus Sig dac. I can't wait to receive and get mine upgraded as I still have not been able to use my Intona in my setup.

 

Randy

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Hi Blake,

 

Great post, very very useful.

 

A basic question about your setup.

There's the source, a Macintosh, and there's the Berkeley USB Converter.

In between, though, how does it all run?

 

Some options:

(1) Curious USB cable > Intona > Curious USB link > W4S RUR > another Curious USB link

(2) Curious USB cable > W4S RUR > solid A-B connector > Intona > Curious USB link

(3) Curious USB cable > Intona > ????? > W4S RUR > Curious USB cable

(4) Other ?????

 

And are do you have the standard or the industrial Intona?

 

Final question (final answer?):

Do I read your post correctly in that, if I were to order an Intona next week, what they're shipping now would work with my Berkeley USB Converter, without need for that field programming upgrade?

 

Smiles,

 

Dave, who has been positively influenced by Mr. T more than once in the past but does wonder in this case if he were to buy an Intona would he need to add more cables to his main music system's setup

++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++

Music is love, made audible.

++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++

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Hi Blake,

 

Great post, very very useful.

 

A basic question about your setup.

There's the source, a Macintosh, and there's the Berkeley USB Converter.

In between, though, how does it all run?

 

Some options:

(1) Curious USB cable > Intona > Curious USB link > W4S RUR > another Curious USB link

 

Dave;

I am using option (1) from my AURALIC Aries to my PS Audio Directstream. I have the industrial Intona that was delivered a few weeks ago. According to Daniel, it has the new firmware installed. To say this combo is a sonic game changer in my system, is a vast understatement!

Tim, who is flat out blown away with option (1)!!

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Hi Dave! Cycling season is upon us... :)

 

Responding to your questions, my two setups are as follows:

 

Home: MBP > a slightly longer custom length version of the Curious Link (300mm) > Industrial Intona > Curious Link > Berkeley Alpha USB Converter> Siltech HF-9 G3 AES/EBU digital cable > DAC

 

 

Work: PC > Light Harmonic 2G split usb cable > Industrial Intona > Curious Link > W4S RUR > Curious Link > Schiit Bimby

 

Yes, all Intona USB Isolators are fully updated with the most recent firmware updates before they are shipped so any Intona ordered now will work with the Berkeley Alpha without the need for any further updating.

Speaker Room: Lumin U1X | Lampizator Pacific 2 | Viva Linea | Constellation Inspiration Stereo 1.0 | FinkTeam Kim | Revel subs  

Office Headphone System: Lumin U1X | Lampizator Golden Gate 3 | Viva Egoista | Abyss AB1266 Phi TC 

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Hi Blake,

 

I stumbled on your post following the Intona and W4S listed in r_w's signature. Im moving from a all in one streamer&dac to a seperate streamer with usb connection to dac. This will be the first time I've had a usb connection between components in my audio system, and it seems like the Intona,W4S and Curious Cables are the way to go.

 

Thank you for all the information.

stereo :  Kronos Sparta / Miyajima Madake / Lumin U1 streamer / Lampizator Big 7 / EAR 912 linestage / Pass Labs XA100.8  / Marten Coltrane Soprano speakers

nas : Qnap tvs-471 

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Thank you Blake. I am going to have to get one and try it in front of my recently acquired Mutec 3+ USB.

12TB NAS >> i7-6700 Server/Control PC >> i3-5015u NAA >> Singxer SU-1 DDC (modded) >> Holo Spring L3 DAC >> Accustic Arts Power 1 int amp >> Sonus Faber Guaneri Evolution speakers + REL T/5i sub (x2)

 

Other components:

UpTone Audio LPS1.2/IsoRegen, Fiber Switch and FMC, Windows Server 2016 OS, Audiophile Optimizer 3.0, Fidelizer Pro 6, HQ Player, Roonserver, PS Audio P3 AC regenerator, HDPlex 400W ATX & 200W Linear PSU, Light Harmonic Lightspeed Split USB cable, Synergistic Research Tungsten AC power cords, Tara Labs The One speaker cables, Tara Labs The Two Extended with HFX Station IC, Oyaide R1 outlets, Stillpoints Ultra Mini footers, Hi-Fi Tuning fuses, Vicoustic/RealTraps/GIK room treatments

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Thank you Blake. I am going to have to get one and try it in front of my recently acquired Mutec 3+ USB.

 

why?

because adding Galvanic Isolation in device #1 (Intona) helps Galvanic Isolation in device #2 (Mutec) ??

 

considering Intona has no reclocking I fail to see the potential gains unless your source USB signal is so poor that "double GI" is somehow a magic pairing?

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Does anyone think the Intona would benefit from being foil/metal screened? I note in the pictures that the plastic case isn't foil covered.

 

E.g. the superb TotalDAC USB filter is housed in a aluminium box.

 

... just asking.

Source:

*Aurender N100 (no internal disk : LAN optically isolated via FMC with *LPS) > DIY 5cm USB link (5v rail removed / ground lift switch - split for *LPS) > Intona Industrial (injected *LPS / internally shielded with copper tape) > DIY 5cm USB link (5v rail removed / ground lift switch) > W4S Recovery (*LPS) > DIY 2cm USB adaptor (5v rail removed / ground lift switch) > *Auralic VEGA (EXACT : balanced)

 

Control:

*Jeff Rowland CAPRI S2 (balanced)

 

Playback:

2 x Revel B15a subs (balanced) > ATC SCM 50 ASL (balanced - 80Hz HPF from subs)

 

Misc:

*Via Power Inspired AG1500 AC Regenerator

LPS: 3 x Swagman Lab Audiophile Signature Edition (W4S, Intona & FMC)

Storage: QNAP TS-253Pro 2x 3Tb, 8Gb RAM

Cables: DIY heavy gauge solid silver (balanced)

Mains: dedicated distribution board with 5 x 2 socket ring mains, all mains cables: Mark Grant Black Series DSP 2.5 Dual Screen

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You can open a new Thread : the Marvelous 3M covered tweaked Intonator

Roon / audio-linux / dual PC / I2s FGPA Dac / analog tube processor / analog tube crossover / active speakers / dual subs / absorption+massive diffusion / ugly cat in the room

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Lol

 

you can open a new thread : the marvelous 3m covered tweaked intonator

Source:

*Aurender N100 (no internal disk : LAN optically isolated via FMC with *LPS) > DIY 5cm USB link (5v rail removed / ground lift switch - split for *LPS) > Intona Industrial (injected *LPS / internally shielded with copper tape) > DIY 5cm USB link (5v rail removed / ground lift switch) > W4S Recovery (*LPS) > DIY 2cm USB adaptor (5v rail removed / ground lift switch) > *Auralic VEGA (EXACT : balanced)

 

Control:

*Jeff Rowland CAPRI S2 (balanced)

 

Playback:

2 x Revel B15a subs (balanced) > ATC SCM 50 ASL (balanced - 80Hz HPF from subs)

 

Misc:

*Via Power Inspired AG1500 AC Regenerator

LPS: 3 x Swagman Lab Audiophile Signature Edition (W4S, Intona & FMC)

Storage: QNAP TS-253Pro 2x 3Tb, 8Gb RAM

Cables: DIY heavy gauge solid silver (balanced)

Mains: dedicated distribution board with 5 x 2 socket ring mains, all mains cables: Mark Grant Black Series DSP 2.5 Dual Screen

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Anyone using the Intona with an exaSound DAC?!

 

I got an Exasound e22 two days ago and am very, very happy with it. I was using an Intona with my old DAC (though only for 3 weeks or so), so I had it available to try for you. George at Exasound told me I would not need the Intona or the Empirical Short Block I had been using as the e22 is already galvanically isolated and common mode noise was likewise addressed already. I could not really hear any difference with or without the Intona. I am only one pair of ears, but my answer is no difference.

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Hi everyone,

 

After reading the positive comments about Intona I have decided to purchase one Intona Usb isolator.

However have a concern about compatibility. I use Hegel HD 12 Dac in my system and would like to ensure whether the Intona is compatible with Hegel hd 12 dac or not? Any idea for that?

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Hi everyone,

 

After reading the positive comments about Intona I have decided to purchase one Intona Usb isolator.

However have a concern about compatibility. I use Hegel HD 12 Dac in my system and would like to ensure whether the Intona is compatible with Hegel hd 12 dac or not? Any idea for that?

 

A lot of water under the bridge since CA first knew of the Intona. If you buy one now, the firmware has the handshaking under control. Still, for what it does, it should be separately powered to provide enough drive that the load demands. Another time.

AS Profile Equipment List        Say NO to MQA

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A lot of water under the bridge since CA first knew of the Intona. If you buy one now, the firmware has the handshaking under control. Still, for what it does, it should be separately powered to provide enough drive that the load demands. Another time.

 

 

Great.

Thanks for info:)

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I got an Exasound e22 two days ago and am very, very happy with it. I was using an Intona with my old DAC (though only for 3 weeks or so), so I had it available to try for you. George at Exasound told me I would not need the Intona or the Empirical Short Block I had been using as the e22 is already galvanically isolated and common mode noise was likewise addressed already. I could not really hear any difference with or without the Intona. I am only one pair of ears, but my answer is no difference.

 

Thanks for answering my question! I was hoping for the same result. Hope more pair of ears will state their opinion as well. :)

Triangle Magellan Concerto 2 < AQ Everest < Vitus Audio SS-010 Mk2 < AQ Dragon High Current < AQ WEL XLR < Chord Qutest DAC w UpTone JS-2 & AQ Dragon Source < AQ Diamond USB < Innuos Phoenix USB w AQ Dragon Source < Aurender N100H & AQ Dragon Source < NetGear GS105GE Switch w UpTone LPS1.2 < Supra CAT8 Ethernet < Gryphon PowerZone w AQ NRG-Wild < Stillpoints UltraSS, Ansuz Darkz D-TC & D2, Omicron Harmonic Stabilizer, Gold Evolution SE & Classic < Furutech FT-SWS (R) < Synergistic Research Orange Quantum Fuse < Solid Tech Hybrid < GigaWatt G-16A 2P Circuit Breaker

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  • 3 weeks later...
Hi everyone,

 

After reading the positive comments about Intona I have decided to purchase one Intona Usb isolator.

However have a concern about compatibility. I use Hegel HD 12 Dac in my system and would like to ensure whether the Intona is compatible with Hegel hd 12 dac or not? Any idea for that?

 

After reading about Intona, I decided a week ago to get one for my headphone system, which is Oppo HA-1 which has a sabre chip DAC. I recieved the Intona 2 days ago and it did wonderful things to my system. just like described.

 

But today I got my Hegel HD25, and the same cables and Intona going to HD25 dac instead of Oppo dac, and HD25 doesnt sync with the computer.. just a slow blinking signal after some fast blinking.

 

I can only assume, but I guess Hegel knows about the USB noice issue and is dampening the usb noice on reception side before sending the data packets to the AMK chip. And adding another noice reduced like the Intona, the clock sync is not strong enough for the DAC to sync with computer.

 

A little disappointed, as I wanted to present as clean digital signal to HD25 as possible.. and it worked wonders for the Oppo, except that the HD25 is way more highly resolution in soundstage.

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After reading about Intona, I decided a week ago to get one for my headphone system, which is Oppo HA-1 which has a sabre chip DAC. I recieved the Intona 2 days ago and it did wonderful things to my system. just like described.

 

But today I got my Hegel HD25, and the same cables and Intona going to HD25 dac instead of Oppo dac, and HD25 doesnt sync with the computer.. just a slow blinking signal after some fast blinking.

 

I can only assume, but I guess Hegel knows about the USB noice issue and is dampening the usb noice on reception side before sending the data packets to the AMK chip. And adding another noice reduced like the Intona, the clock sync is not strong enough for the DAC to sync with computer.

 

A little disappointed, as I wanted to present as clean digital signal to HD25 as possible.. and it worked wonders for the Oppo, except that the HD25 is way more highly resolution in soundstage.

 

Have you contacted Daniel about this issue? I would do that before you give up on the Intona. It may be something that can be easily fixed.

Speaker Room: Lumin U1X | Lampizator Pacific 2 | Viva Linea | Constellation Inspiration Stereo 1.0 | FinkTeam Kim | Revel subs  

Office Headphone System: Lumin U1X | Lampizator Golden Gate 3 | Viva Egoista | Abyss AB1266 Phi TC 

Link to comment
After reading about Intona, I decided a week ago to get one for my headphone system, which is Oppo HA-1 which has a sabre chip DAC. I recieved the Intona 2 days ago and it did wonderful things to my system. just like described.

 

But today I got my Hegel HD25, and the same cables and Intona going to HD25 dac instead of Oppo dac, and HD25 doesnt sync with the computer.. just a slow blinking signal after some fast blinking.

 

I can only assume, but I guess Hegel knows about the USB noice issue and is dampening the usb noice on reception side before sending the data packets to the AMK chip. And adding another noice reduced like the Intona, the clock sync is not strong enough for the DAC to sync with computer.

 

A little disappointed, as I wanted to present as clean digital signal to HD25 as possible.. and it worked wonders for the Oppo, except that the HD25 is way more highly resolution in soundstage.

 

Yes that can happen, one DAC works fine, the other is dead in the water.

If the chain is PC -> Intona -> DAC, the computer enumerates the DAC only, the Intona is transparent and doesn't use any driver, it is considered just a wire as far as the computer is concerned.

 

I've had some success in adding a simple powered USB2.0 hub between the DAC and the Intona when the Intona maybe has not enough power to drive the DAC's USB input. The hub provides a load that the Intona can work with.

Sometimes the computer's USB port doesn't play nicely either. Also try some very cheap USB cables keep them short as you can, but they need to be USB2.0 standard. Quite a few exotic USB cables have failed to work with the Intona.

 

At this stage try the hub, if not then refer to Blake's suggestion.

 

The more you unplug/replug, the DAC enumeration gets worse and creates multiple entries in the device register for the same device, this is for Windows. In the end it doesn't know one from the other, so it's best to remove the redundant entries and start from fresh. I remove the driver first, then remove the entries, reboot and reinstall the driver.

 

USB Tree Viewer

 

USBDview This software can delete obsolete entries in the registry

AS Profile Equipment List        Say NO to MQA

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