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Which one to buy: UpTone USB REGEN or Intona USB Isolator?


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Alex and a few others have taxed my brain and made me study around the subject a bit more. The silly expensive MU metal is (A poor analogy ) a bit like a sponge... It is permeable to Magnetic fields (soaks)...Can only absorb so much at once.. before leaking .. It shapes the flow of the water around it (Field ) and rounded not sharp corners help hold the field together. ..

Crystal boundary( Metal atoms) in the metal that shapes the magnetic field is damaged by force...That's why anealing the metal heating cooling aligns the atoms better to shape the magnetic field.

Think 5 spaced lines being concentrated into almost 1 thick line of force away from the area you want to EM shield...

Note this is my limited under standing...

Please tell me other wise.....

I wrote that for myself and others ?

 

 

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But..... Busy today and yesterday and my order of MU Metal is yet to arrive ....

The case is not drilled yet either.....[emoji10] Just my inner copper foil of the plastic intona case...

The wife asked do I want the tin foil on the bedroom floor......

Yes that's my RFI shielding not my old sandwich...

Re wrapping it back onto the intona....After just listening to the copper only...

IMHO always IMHO... Nice very nice. My hearing hasn't improved but what I can hear has.

I may be different as I have a cell phone as my transport about a meter away from my chain.

Turning off the WIFI / Cell/ microwave. Doesn't change much. .(anything)... Via OTG USB..

 

The aluminum + copper. .. ? I like...

An accumulated effect.

I think we can AB test ...As the PCB is still able to be removed... unshielded and back in its new metal case.....

 

Thanks for joining this collective test and adding a bit of knowledge...

So far shielding the intona's PCB is a positive benefit.. I M H O...

Cheers John S and Alex others for the help...

 

Oh a guy on headfi did a quick MU metal test with an EM field meter... To get the same drop in strength by using MU Metal... he had to move the meter away at least 18cms

 

 

http://www.head-fi.org/t/777678/intona-high-speed-usb-isolator/120_10#post_12837380

 

Good luck

keep smiling

Dave[emoji16]

 

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Yes Dr N ..Abtr ..the superstar did the hard work finding it.. lots of room inside. I have an IFI IPURIFIER 2. so made a hole for that....

I never had the case but had some copper tape so I did inside not like the sheeting our friend used. His looks nicer. ..

The lid is my base on my version. I am low on copper for the inside of the aluminum box but have some Aluminium tape I used for thermal boards... Thicken the case up inside...

MU metal seems best to use as a rolled tube... When it comes I will give it a go...

Remember this was just a tin foil RFI shielding experiment.. I may be taking it beyond what's needed but Abtr thoughts mirror mine. It sounds better to me and that's as scientific as it gets.

I added long posts to give people a better understanding to make a better judgement call for themselves.....

I'd love someone with a good oscilloscope and RFI EMI experience to show a reduction in noise... But my noise will differ from anyone else's in my environment....

So I can add extra foil inside...

I will try a 1 inch overlapped tube of MU metal. if I have enough...

A drill case or aluminium project box maybe more than enough but I will try a bit more to see and stop people spending unnecessarily if it doesn't do much....

 

Good luck

Dave

 

 

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Today I should receive my Intona. I have a question... Does the linear psu for the computer still make sense with this product?

Theoretically I would say no.

 

I would also say no, but you have to make sure that the noise from the switching PS of your PC does not enter your audio chain in other ways, for instance add a filter before the PC (like a simple Schaffner filter, and/or use good filters before your other audio components).

 

Roberto

 

 

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I would also say no, but you have to make sure that the noise from the switching PS of your PC does not enter your audio chain in other ways, for instance add a filter before the PC (like a simple Schaffner filter, and/or use good filters before your other audio components).

 

Roberto

 

 

Sent from my iPhone using Computer Audiophile

 

Which Schaffner filters in particular?

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Which Schaffner filters in particular?

 

I am using a Schaffner FN2090-16-06, which is rated at 16A, because it allows me to use one for the whole chain (DAC, (SA)CDP, preamp, poweramp), but you can buy one which is tailored to the power consumption of your computer. This is where I bought it https://www.conrad.de/de/entstoerfilter-250-vac-16-a-4-mh-l-x-b-x-h-1135-x-575-x-454-mm-schaffner-fn2090-16-06-1-st-554095.html

 

Initially I just put it in a wooden box to test it as in this picture

Wooden box.jpeg

 

 

Roberto

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I am using a Schaffner FN2090-16-06, which is rated at 16A, because it allows me to use one for the whole chain (DAC, (SA)CDP, preamp, poweramp), but you can buy one which is tailored to the power consumption of your computer. This is where I bought it https://www.conrad.de/de/entstoerfilter-250-vac-16-a-4-mh-l-x-b-x-h-1135-x-575-x-454-mm-schaffner-fn2090-16-06-1-st-554095.html

 

Initially I just put it in a wooden box to test it as in this picture

[ATTACH=CONFIG]28928[/ATTACH]

 

 

Roberto

 

Thank you.

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Today I should receive my Intona. I have a question... Does the linear psu for the computer still make sense with this product?

Theoretically I would say no.

 

I don't know much technicly and theoretically but from my trail and test.

Intona is not a universal drug for the whole deceases.

You do still need a LPSU for pc.

I use PPA USB card with separated LPSU and ATX LPSU for pc and also with ac line conditioner.

But i can hear the diffence. Intona with clean signal from audiophile pc sounds better than regular pc.

 

If it doesn't make sense. The sound should be the same.

DAC - Mytek Brooklyn, Intona High Speed Isolator.Int.Amp - ATC SIA2 150,SP - ATC SCM19, Sub - Paradigm SW2200

Source - Audio PC, Core i7 4785T 2.2Ghz, 8G PPA RAM, Samsung 850pro , WD Black HDD, JCAT USB card, PPA BLACK SATA Cable, HDPLEX H5 gen2 case, LPSu - Uptone JS-2 for DAC and USB Card - TeraDak ATX350W for PC, OS wins2012R2, Audio Optimizer, Fidelizer Pro, ASIO JPLAY, Foobar2000+Ramdisk, Hq player, SP cable - JPS superconductor2, Analog interconnect - Harmornic Tech Magic link III, USB cable - JCAT twin cable, Power cable - JPS kaptivator for Uptone JS-2 forDAC and USB card, Wireworld electra7 for PC, Wireworld electra7 silver for Amp, Magnet 2000 power line stabilzer and conditioner for DAC,PC

12932837_1700967073514123_7525078827891555851_n.jpg

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" What??? "

isolatorboard2.jpg

 

13681043_1094811183940391_1565883748928928562_n.jpg

DAC - Mytek Brooklyn, Intona High Speed Isolator.Int.Amp - ATC SIA2 150,SP - ATC SCM19, Sub - Paradigm SW2200

Source - Audio PC, Core i7 4785T 2.2Ghz, 8G PPA RAM, Samsung 850pro , WD Black HDD, JCAT USB card, PPA BLACK SATA Cable, HDPLEX H5 gen2 case, LPSu - Uptone JS-2 for DAC and USB Card - TeraDak ATX350W for PC, OS wins2012R2, Audio Optimizer, Fidelizer Pro, ASIO JPLAY, Foobar2000+Ramdisk, Hq player, SP cable - JPS superconductor2, Analog interconnect - Harmornic Tech Magic link III, USB cable - JCAT twin cable, Power cable - JPS kaptivator for Uptone JS-2 forDAC and USB card, Wireworld electra7 for PC, Wireworld electra7 silver for Amp, Magnet 2000 power line stabilzer and conditioner for DAC,PC

12932837_1700967073514123_7525078827891555851_n.jpg

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" What??? "

[ATTACH=CONFIG]28950[/ATTACH]

 

[ATTACH=CONFIG]28951[/ATTACH]

Not what but what what with watts...What...

 

Jplay stole our idea by making it a custom great looking case... I draw the line if J Play bring out their brand of kitchen foil.... Not for the microwaves though.....?

 

I just got my MU metal but I am waiting to try it on a new toy when it comes before using it on the Intona. Abtr great find on the case may be enough but as it's a test... that hopefully will benefit others.. pushing the limits doesn't hurt...

 

Keep smiling

 

Dave[emoji2]

 

Sent from my SM-G900F using Computer Audiophile mobile app

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The effect on just Intona has been a revelation without spending a fortune.

Blocking the EM spectrum and learning a few things on the way....

Reducing local EM from the Aqvox can only help. How much a I hope to find out myself on my LPS....

Any noticeable change Abtr?

Fwiw, I'd say that if the audible effect of shielding the Intona is about 20% of total computer (usb) audio quality, then shielding the Aqvox may add another 5 to 10%. I didn't do any blind testing though. And I still have to try copper tape. :)

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I have placed a Bybee Signal Enhancer underneath the Intona and a project case filled with steel BB shot on top of it. Very nice improvement.

 

You guys are all nuts :) and I say that with much affection. I totally get a kick out of reading about all your trials and tribulations with widgets and widget tweaks. I wish I had the energy and will (and money) to partake.

RIG:  iFi Zen Stream - Benchmark DAC3 L - LA4  AHB2 | Paradigm Sig S6 Cables:  anything available

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Haha ..there should be some fun in this hobby.

I wouldn't want this to go crazy expensive ...With gold plated diamond encrusted cable risers.... We have the Intona already... Does it get better shielded... From tin foil to a $30 project box... I think the collective 'We' think yes.... J Cat J Play do to... So if you haven't got an Intona have a look....

This and other forums start with 10 excited people with large wallets badgering some poor engineer/ company to hurry up and release thier next greatest thing. If you are lucky later you can hear this at a local meet/ Brick and mortar...

Then it splits off into the sub groups of arguments for and against..Have you compared it too...

I hope Westy already had it to try...... and a Faraday Shot shield is new to me?. but great idea..

God forbid we are just having fun on the cheap and learning a bit on the way.... McGyver -ing what's in the draw or garage....

We should apologize for the mini hijacking of the thread. One fact so far is if it's not in a metal case.... try wrapping it 8 wraps of kitchen foil and have a listen.... If not... you still can have fresh sandwiches or block the NSA reading your mind thought's....

 

Thanks for adding some ideas Westy and I am also glad it's brightened up your day...? Ironically. ..Photonman. ..

 

Most of what I try is tinkering with what I have to get the best out of it.... My wife's been doing that to me for 14 years......?

 

 

Sent from my SM-G900F using Computer Audiophile mobile app

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Not what but what what with watts...What...

 

Jplay stole our idea by making it a custom great looking case... I draw the line if J Play bring out their brand of kitchen foil.... Not for the microwaves though.....?

 

I just got my MU metal but I am waiting to try it on a new toy when it comes before using it on the Intona. Abtr great find on the case may be enough but as it's a test... that hopefully will benefit others.. pushing the limits doesn't hurt...

 

Keep smiling

 

Dave[emoji2]

 

Sent from my SM-G900F using Computer Audiophile mobile app

 

Ha Ha Ha , I love your comments.

DAC - Mytek Brooklyn, Intona High Speed Isolator.Int.Amp - ATC SIA2 150,SP - ATC SCM19, Sub - Paradigm SW2200

Source - Audio PC, Core i7 4785T 2.2Ghz, 8G PPA RAM, Samsung 850pro , WD Black HDD, JCAT USB card, PPA BLACK SATA Cable, HDPLEX H5 gen2 case, LPSu - Uptone JS-2 for DAC and USB Card - TeraDak ATX350W for PC, OS wins2012R2, Audio Optimizer, Fidelizer Pro, ASIO JPLAY, Foobar2000+Ramdisk, Hq player, SP cable - JPS superconductor2, Analog interconnect - Harmornic Tech Magic link III, USB cable - JCAT twin cable, Power cable - JPS kaptivator for Uptone JS-2 forDAC and USB card, Wireworld electra7 for PC, Wireworld electra7 silver for Amp, Magnet 2000 power line stabilzer and conditioner for DAC,PC

12932837_1700967073514123_7525078827891555851_n.jpg

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Fwiw, I'd say that if the audible effect of shielding the Intona is about 20% of total computer (usb) audio quality, then shielding the Aqvox may add another 5 to 10%. I didn't do any blind testing though. And I still have to try copper tape. :)

 

Hi, Abtr

I heard many friends on here used copper tape for shieding. It made me wonder why. because as i know, Aluminium is better for shielding. Or i misunderstood? not sure. Sorry.

 

12295246_942620685826109_6970152632268385340_n.jpg?oh=134dc416eac355acabc2bdb9fba85228&oe=5874323C

DAC - Mytek Brooklyn, Intona High Speed Isolator.Int.Amp - ATC SIA2 150,SP - ATC SCM19, Sub - Paradigm SW2200

Source - Audio PC, Core i7 4785T 2.2Ghz, 8G PPA RAM, Samsung 850pro , WD Black HDD, JCAT USB card, PPA BLACK SATA Cable, HDPLEX H5 gen2 case, LPSu - Uptone JS-2 for DAC and USB Card - TeraDak ATX350W for PC, OS wins2012R2, Audio Optimizer, Fidelizer Pro, ASIO JPLAY, Foobar2000+Ramdisk, Hq player, SP cable - JPS superconductor2, Analog interconnect - Harmornic Tech Magic link III, USB cable - JCAT twin cable, Power cable - JPS kaptivator for Uptone JS-2 forDAC and USB card, Wireworld electra7 for PC, Wireworld electra7 silver for Amp, Magnet 2000 power line stabilzer and conditioner for DAC,PC

12932837_1700967073514123_7525078827891555851_n.jpg

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I have placed a Bybee Signal Enhancer underneath the Intona and a project case filled with steel BB shot on top of it. Very nice improvement.

 

Hi, What is a Bybee Signal Enhancer?

DAC - Mytek Brooklyn, Intona High Speed Isolator.Int.Amp - ATC SIA2 150,SP - ATC SCM19, Sub - Paradigm SW2200

Source - Audio PC, Core i7 4785T 2.2Ghz, 8G PPA RAM, Samsung 850pro , WD Black HDD, JCAT USB card, PPA BLACK SATA Cable, HDPLEX H5 gen2 case, LPSu - Uptone JS-2 for DAC and USB Card - TeraDak ATX350W for PC, OS wins2012R2, Audio Optimizer, Fidelizer Pro, ASIO JPLAY, Foobar2000+Ramdisk, Hq player, SP cable - JPS superconductor2, Analog interconnect - Harmornic Tech Magic link III, USB cable - JCAT twin cable, Power cable - JPS kaptivator for Uptone JS-2 forDAC and USB card, Wireworld electra7 for PC, Wireworld electra7 silver for Amp, Magnet 2000 power line stabilzer and conditioner for DAC,PC

12932837_1700967073514123_7525078827891555851_n.jpg

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You guys are all nuts :) and I say that with much affection. I totally get a kick out of reading about all your trials and tribulations with widgets and widget tweaks. I wish I had the energy and will (and money) to partake.

 

Hey.... It's fun!!

For me, It's funnier than washing dishes for my wife at least.

DAC - Mytek Brooklyn, Intona High Speed Isolator.Int.Amp - ATC SIA2 150,SP - ATC SCM19, Sub - Paradigm SW2200

Source - Audio PC, Core i7 4785T 2.2Ghz, 8G PPA RAM, Samsung 850pro , WD Black HDD, JCAT USB card, PPA BLACK SATA Cable, HDPLEX H5 gen2 case, LPSu - Uptone JS-2 for DAC and USB Card - TeraDak ATX350W for PC, OS wins2012R2, Audio Optimizer, Fidelizer Pro, ASIO JPLAY, Foobar2000+Ramdisk, Hq player, SP cable - JPS superconductor2, Analog interconnect - Harmornic Tech Magic link III, USB cable - JCAT twin cable, Power cable - JPS kaptivator for Uptone JS-2 forDAC and USB card, Wireworld electra7 for PC, Wireworld electra7 silver for Amp, Magnet 2000 power line stabilzer and conditioner for DAC,PC

12932837_1700967073514123_7525078827891555851_n.jpg

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Hi, Abtr

I heard many friends on here used copper tape for shieding. It made me wonder why. because as i know, Aluminium is better for shielding. Or i misunderstood? not sure. Sorry.

 

12295246_942620685826109_6970152632268385340_n.jpg?oh=134dc416eac355acabc2bdb9fba85228&oe=5874323C

Hi NAIDIVER,

 

I think basically aluminum should be almost as effective as copper for shielding high EM frequencies because of its high conductivity. For lower frequencies (below 100 KHz) copper is said to be better, although the aluminum case is much thicker (1.5 mm) than the copper tape that I ordered (0.1 mm), so I'm not sure if the copper tape will make a difference. I'm thinking of buying an EMF meter to do some measurements.

 

A problem with aluminum (as was already mentioned by John Swenson) is that the surface will always be oxidized and aluminum oxide is an insulator (also see your graph above). This may compromise the electrical connection between the lid and the rest of the aluminum case so it won't act as one continuous shield. The copper tape I ordered has a conductive adhesive. Applying it to the outside of the aluminum case directly after sanding off the oxide should effectively seal it and fully connect the two aluminum parts..

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