kilroy Posted December 25, 2015 Share Posted December 25, 2015 I had a chance t briefly use the Itona USB isolator and all I can say is wow .An inexpensive e way to add galvanic USB isolation to my Yggdrasil . I have used a lot of tweaks and this one is the best one I've used thus far in tweaking USB . Can you describe the results in terms of sound quality improvements? Thanks Link to comment
sbgk Posted December 25, 2015 Share Posted December 25, 2015 Are we at the stage where the source pc and player software doesn't make a difference ? There is no harm in doubt and skepticism, for it is through these that new discoveries are made. Richard P Feynman http://mqnplayer.blogspot.co.uk/ Link to comment
Jimmypowder Posted December 25, 2015 Share Posted December 25, 2015 Can you describe the results in terms of sound quality improvements? Thanks Better clarity ( hard to believe with the Yggy) . That's all I can say at this point . Only listened for maybe 20 minutes . Link to comment
PeterSt Posted December 25, 2015 Share Posted December 25, 2015 Here's my latest "review", this time of the Industrial version : Intona High Speed USB 2.0 galvanic isolation Regards, Peter Lush^3-e Lush^2 Blaxius^2.5 Ethernet^3 HDMI^2 XLR^2 XXHighEnd (developer) Phasure NOS1 24/768 Async USB DAC (manufacturer) Phasure Mach III Audio PC with Linear PSU (manufacturer) Orelino & Orelo MKII Speakers (designer/supplier) Link to comment
jabbr Posted December 25, 2015 Share Posted December 25, 2015 How's the NOS2 coming along? Custom room treatments for headphone users. Link to comment
Barry in Calgary Posted December 29, 2015 Share Posted December 29, 2015 Well.... PeterST's review got me thinking (which is normally a bad thing), so I ordered an industrial version without flashing LEDs. It will likely take weeks to arrive as it needs to go through Canadian customs. I'll write up a review then. Regards Barry Link to comment
blankdisc Posted December 30, 2015 Share Posted December 30, 2015 Just received my standard Intona USB Isolator today. Unfortunately it didn't work with my Aries. couldn't establish a stable connection. I think i will have to sell it. If anyone wants to take it off my hand, please PM me. Main system: iMac A+ -> LH Lightspeed USB -> Schiit Yggy DAC -> Nordost TYR XLR IC -> Pass Labs XP20 Preamp -> Nordost TYR XLR IC -> Pass Labs XA60.5 Mono Amps -> MIT ACT MA SC -> Wilson Audio Watt/Puppy 8 Second desktop system: iMac A+ / TIDAL -> LH Lightspeed USB -> LH Labs Geek Pulse Infinity -> Nordost TYR RCA IC -> Firstwatt J2 -> MIT AVT2 SC -> Omega Super 7 mini Link to comment
One and a half Posted December 30, 2015 Share Posted December 30, 2015 Just received my standard Intona USB Isolator today. Unfortunately it didn't work with my Aries. couldn't establish a stable connection. I think i will have to sell it. If anyone wants to take it off my hand, please PM me. I thought the same, didn't work with Mutec MC-1.2 either. Experimented by adding a simple USB 2.0 hub on the output of the intona, and the converter was recognised. The chain: PC USB 2.0 out --> USB A to USB B --> Intona -->USB 2 hub (unpowered) ---> USB A to USB B --> Mutec AS Profile Equipment List Say NO to MQA Link to comment
One and a half Posted December 30, 2015 Share Posted December 30, 2015 Spoke too soon. The Intona failed soon after connection, can't see anything on the other side, mice, portable usb drives, let alone a USB DAC. Requested an RMA, see what happens. AS Profile Equipment List Say NO to MQA Link to comment
kilroy Posted December 30, 2015 Share Posted December 30, 2015 What kind of USB hub is suitable for this purpose? Even a a small one seems kind of an awkward, clunky device to try to hang off the DAC or cable. Link to comment
One and a half Posted December 30, 2015 Share Posted December 30, 2015 What kind of USB hub is suitable for this purpose? Even a a small one seems kind of an awkward, clunky device to try to hang off the DAC or cable. The USB 2 hub is a DLink P/N AUB1040CS.......A1G or Model DUB-1040. Further experiments revealed an apple keyboard works fine without the hub, but the current draw on a keyboard is nothing compared to a hard drive. In fact a mac mini works with the intoma on OSX without an issue. AS Profile Equipment List Say NO to MQA Link to comment
Jimmypowder Posted December 30, 2015 Share Posted December 30, 2015 My iMac works fine with the intona . Maybe it has to be a computer and not a network streamer to work Link to comment
tubesound Posted December 30, 2015 Author Share Posted December 30, 2015 I had a chance t briefly use the Itona USB isolator and all I can say is wow .An inexpensive e way to add galvanic USB isolation to my Yggdrasil . I have used a lot of tweaks and this one is the best one I've used thus far in tweaking USB . What are the other tweaks you tried before? Did you try other tweaks together with Intona and observe any incremental benefits? Link to comment
Jimmypowder Posted December 30, 2015 Share Posted December 30, 2015 What are the other tweaks you tried before? Did you try other tweaks together with Intona and observe any incremental benefits? Uptone Amber Regen and Jitterbug . The Intona made a bigger difference than the Regen or Jitterbug using an iMac and Yggy . I have not tried to pair anything , Regen and Intona for example . Link to comment
blankdisc Posted December 30, 2015 Share Posted December 30, 2015 Finally got Intona to work after inserting Schiit Wyrd between the DAC and the Isolator. I also had to replace the USB cable between the Wyrd and Isolator. Now i am wondering if doing this would defeat the purpose of the Isolator. btw, this setup worked for both my iMac and Aries. I guess the main issue is probably caused by Isolator dropping current from 500ma to 300ma and many DACs don't like that. Main system: iMac A+ -> LH Lightspeed USB -> Schiit Yggy DAC -> Nordost TYR XLR IC -> Pass Labs XP20 Preamp -> Nordost TYR XLR IC -> Pass Labs XA60.5 Mono Amps -> MIT ACT MA SC -> Wilson Audio Watt/Puppy 8 Second desktop system: iMac A+ / TIDAL -> LH Lightspeed USB -> LH Labs Geek Pulse Infinity -> Nordost TYR RCA IC -> Firstwatt J2 -> MIT AVT2 SC -> Omega Super 7 mini Link to comment
StefT Posted December 30, 2015 Share Posted December 30, 2015 Hi, I am using a Bryston BUC-1. 5v of the usb cable is disconnected with tape cover. Is the Intona useful in my situation ? Thanks, best regards. Link to comment
One and a half Posted December 30, 2015 Share Posted December 30, 2015 Hi, I am using a Bryston BUC-1. 5v of the usb cable is disconnected with tape cover. Is the Intona useful in my situation ? Thanks, best regards. The Intona requires 5V to work. If you tape up the 5V, the intona will be a brick and do nothing except take up some physical space and reflect photons. AS Profile Equipment List Say NO to MQA Link to comment
StefT Posted December 30, 2015 Share Posted December 30, 2015 OK, thanks for your response. But my question is: is the Intona useful when used with a dac or converter that don't need the 5v? PS: excuse my english, I am franchement. Link to comment
blankdisc Posted December 30, 2015 Share Posted December 30, 2015 OK, thanks for your response. But my question is: is the Intona useful when used with a dac or converter that don't need the 5v? PS: excuse my english, I am franchement. i think YES since Intona does something no one in the world is able to archive at this moment which is USB 2.0 full speed galvanic isolation. btw, my Intona is no longer for sale. :-) It is a keeper and it does work with my Aries. Main system: iMac A+ -> LH Lightspeed USB -> Schiit Yggy DAC -> Nordost TYR XLR IC -> Pass Labs XP20 Preamp -> Nordost TYR XLR IC -> Pass Labs XA60.5 Mono Amps -> MIT ACT MA SC -> Wilson Audio Watt/Puppy 8 Second desktop system: iMac A+ / TIDAL -> LH Lightspeed USB -> LH Labs Geek Pulse Infinity -> Nordost TYR RCA IC -> Firstwatt J2 -> MIT AVT2 SC -> Omega Super 7 mini Link to comment
One and a half Posted December 31, 2015 Share Posted December 31, 2015 Finally got Intona to work after inserting Schiit Wyrd between the DAC and the Isolator. I also had to replace the USB cable between the Wyrd and Isolator. Now i am wondering if doing this would defeat the purpose of the Isolator. btw, this setup worked for both my iMac and Aries. I guess the main issue is probably caused by Isolator dropping current from 500ma to 300ma and many DACs don't like that. For the moment listened to the Intona for a few hours last night on LCD-3's. I can hear some micro details coming though now and again, a different kind of presentation, there's more noise floor gone again, certainly very dynamic and coherent. I've yet to try speakers, hopefully today and tonight when everyone is celebrating and up at all hours Can you write the chain, be interested where the cable change occurred and what's used where. Here's what cobbled together at the moment: HP Z800 Win 7 with HQPlayer 3.12.0 --> NAA --> Mac Mini i5 2012 model Yosemite --> Generic USB2.0 cable --> Itona Isolator --> Nordost Blue Heaven USB cable --> Mutec MC-1.2 USB to AES3 converter mains powered --> 25m Cat5e --> RME ADI-2 AES3 input XLR Outputs AS Profile Equipment List Say NO to MQA Link to comment
cmarin Posted December 31, 2015 Share Posted December 31, 2015 I just received the Intona USB 2.0 Hi-Speed Isolator (industrial version) and wanted to report my experience. 1. Playback Chain: PC (running Windows Server 2102R2,/Audiophile Optimizer in ultimate core mode with SoTM PCI USB card and JRiver v20; separate internal SSDs for OS and music files; motherboard, SSDs and USB card powered by Uptone Linear power supply)-> USB cable 1 -> Intone USB isolator -> USB cable 2 -> Berkeley Alpha USB converter -> AES digital cable -> Pacific Microsonics DAC -> Absolare Altius Preamp -> Absolare Altius monoblock SET amps -> Magico Q7mkII speakers 2. Currently have four USB cables: - Lightspeed 1.5m length - TotalDac 1.5 m length - Curious 1.0 m length - Curious 0.3 m length 3. Tried the following USB cable combinations: a) cable 1: TotalDac; cable 2: Lightspeed b) cable 1: TotalDac; cable 2: Curious (1m) c) cable 1: Lightspeed; cable 2: Curious (1m) d) cable 1: Curious (1m); cable 2: Curious (0.3m) 4. The only USB cable combination that successfully transmitted a signal to the DAC was option (d): cable 1: Curious (1m); cable 2: Curious (0.3m) 5. JRiver reported an error message with the other three options with no signal transmitted to the DAC. 6. My system already had a very high quality digital reproduction, but using the Intona USB 2.0 Hi-Speed Isolator resulted in a significant reduction in the noise floor and a concomitant improvement in the sound quality: improved clarity from top to bottom, resolution, soundstage depth, dynamics, decay, separation of instruments, more full bodied voices, and more accurate timbers; in short, a more realistic and engaging presentation. Of course YMMV, but for the price it is well worth a try. Link to comment
kilroy Posted December 31, 2015 Share Posted December 31, 2015 oh crap. $229,000 speakers. (sorry.) Link to comment
kilroy Posted December 31, 2015 Share Posted December 31, 2015 So what makes the Curious cables so unique as to be able to carry that signal? Surely it must be a real "electrical" characteristic that may or may not coexist also as an "audiophile" (as in something one can hear) characteristic. I'm interested in the Intona too, but it seems to be a gamble whether it will work with a particular setup or not. Is the Curious cable the universal enabler? Or one of them, anyway? Link to comment
Jimmypowder Posted December 31, 2015 Share Posted December 31, 2015 So what makes the Curious cables so unique as to be able to carry that signal? Surely it must be a real "electrical" characteristic that may or may not coexist also as an "audiophile" (as in something one can hear) characteristic. I'm interested in the Intona too, but it seems to be a gamble whether it will work with a particular setup or not. Is the Curious cable the universal enabler? Or one of them, anyway? Im using a Supra and Audioquest cable and I have no issues at all Link to comment
sandyk Posted December 31, 2015 Share Posted December 31, 2015 So what makes the Curious cables so unique as to be able to carry that signal? Surely it must be a real "electrical" characteristic that may or may not coexist also as an "audiophile" (as in something one can hear) characteristic. I'm interested in the Intona too, but it seems to be a gamble whether it will work with a particular setup or not. Is the Curious cable the universal enabler? Or one of them, anyway? It should work with all compliant USB 2.0 cables, unless there is a compatibility problem with the Berkeley Alpha USB converter . $358 is a lot of money to take a chance on unless there is a good guarantee. How a Digital Audio file sounds, or a Digital Video file looks, is governed to a large extent by the Power Supply area. All that Identical Checksums gives is the possibility of REGENERATING the file to close to that of the original file. PROFILE UPDATED 13-11-2020 Link to comment
Recommended Posts
Create an account or sign in to comment
You need to be a member in order to leave a comment
Create an account
Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!
Register a new accountSign in
Already have an account? Sign in here.
Sign In Now