Which one to buy: UpTone USB REGEN or Intona USB Isolator?

[Abtr]

Regen isn't achieving galavanic isolation. Isotona and JCAT (allegedly) are.

 

In fact, I wonder if the reason for the plastic case is that's how to insure galvanic isolation. Which suggests to me a) that EMI isn't an issue here and b) that JCAT may be snookering people.

 

But what do I know?

I simply put the entire Intona in a big metal box. I A/B it by opening and closing the lid. The sonic effect is remarkable. I believe shielded (closed cover) sounds significantly better. I've ordered a diecast aluminium casing (€20) for the Intona..

 

 

By the way, I don't think you need/should connect the metal shielding to ground. Certainly not to signal ground and mains ground is probably much noisier than any EM induced potential.

[Abtr]

Have you got a link so we can see the case you ordered please Abtr..

I ordered this one:

Hammond IP54 Diecast Aluminium Enclosure Natural 1550L (165 x 127 … | Electronic Parts Specialist; UK Supplier of Electronic Parts

 

Here:

1550L - HAMMOND - Metallic Enclosure, Diecast, IP54, Instrument, 165 mm, 127 mm, 76.5 mm, Aluminium, Unfinished | Farnell element14

[Abtr]

most simple drill a hole near the top of the case and cut out to make a slot... For the USB cables..

 

Sent from my SM-G900F using Computer Audiophile mobile app

Yes, that's the best method if it comes to EMI shielding. Make just two small openings for the USB cables connecting the intona inside the aluminium case. I'll post a picture when it's done.

[Abtr]

Well, I promised to post some pictures, but the casing I ordered was too small to house the PCB of the Intona plus USB plugs. So I ordered a Hammond 1590BX die cast aluminum case of 254 x 70 x 51mm.

 

 

This will easily accommodate the PCB plus USB plugs, plus the (B to B) plug of the Aqvox linear 5V USB power supply which I currently use to feed the Intona and block the 5V USB power from my MacMini.

 

Note that the above casing is also available with a satin black (RAL 9005) finish (part number 1590BXBK).

[Abtr]

Please do show us how you progress and most of all how it sounds.

Well, I currently have this setup, just housed in a (metal) drill case. It sounds great! I'm listening to Alice in Chains unplugged from Tidal and I'm amazed by the sound quality..

[Abtr]

So I finished the aluminium casing for the Intona. Here are some pictures:

 

 

Sound is very nice.

[Abtr]

@Middy. The aluminium on its own is better than the steel drill case. Yes, I'll try copper tape inside..

[Abtr]

Abtr nice!

What did you use to stand off the board?

Thanks. I used 3 small wooden bars, glued to the aluminium plate with super glue. The PCB is mounted on the bars with the original screws.

 

Note that I used a Hammond 1590BX casing of 254 x 70 x 51mm. There is also a lower version of that box of 254 x 70 x 35mm (part number 1590BX2 or in black 1590BX2BK):

 

[Abtr]

So I also 'Faraday-caged' the Aqvox usb lps for the Intona :

 

[Abtr]

The effect on just Intona has been a revelation without spending a fortune.

Blocking the EM spectrum and learning a few things on the way....

Reducing local EM from the Aqvox can only help. How much a I hope to find out myself on my LPS....

Any noticeable change Abtr?

Fwiw, I'd say that if the audible effect of shielding the Intona is about 20% of total computer (usb) audio quality, then shielding the Aqvox may add another 5 to 10%. I didn't do any blind testing though. And I still have to try copper tape.

[Abtr]

Hi, Abtr

I heard many friends on here used copper tape for shieding. It made me wonder why. because as i know, Aluminium is better for shielding. Or i misunderstood? not sure. Sorry.

 

Hi NAIDIVER,

 

I think basically aluminum should be almost as effective as copper for shielding high EM frequencies because of its high conductivity. For lower frequencies (below 100 KHz) copper is said to be better, although the aluminum case is much thicker (1.5 mm) than the copper tape that I ordered (0.1 mm), so I'm not sure if the copper tape will make a difference. I'm thinking of buying an EMF meter to do some measurements.

 

A problem with aluminum (as was already mentioned by John Swenson) is that the surface will always be oxidized and aluminum oxide is an insulator (also see your graph above). This may compromise the electrical connection between the lid and the rest of the aluminum case so it won't act as one continuous shield. The copper tape I ordered has a conductive adhesive. Applying it to the outside of the aluminum case directly after sanding off the oxide should effectively seal it and fully connect the two aluminum parts..

[Abtr]

Hi, Abtr

I don't understand that chart much.

I thought i have to see it insulator index. Is it wrong?

Hi NAIDIVER,

I don't know what specific point the chart is supposed to illustrate but the data seems to be correct. The chart shows the varying resistance of different base metals and their oxides. All the metal oxides are semi-conductive except aluminum oxide which is an insulator with electrical resistance of 10^15 Ω/m. This doesn't make aluminum a bad EMI shielding material. It's just something to consider when you build an aluminum Faraday cage.

[Abtr]

Hi gent's, remember I said I wasn't sure about grounding using a faraday shield.

God forbid it's a full on article about EMI shielding for expert review and I hope it is of interest to the engineers reading it . Optical decoupling was interesting.....

But our little issue and experiments. This statement :

 

.EMI Control Devices and Techniques

 

The performance of some EMI control techniques or devices may be significantly influenced by grounding. In particular, cable shields; isolation transformers; EMI filters; ESD, lightning, and EMF protection techniques; and

 

*****Faraday shields must be properly grounded so as to provide maximum EMI protection....*** .

 

Our little metal box isn't part of the circuitry. . so would a cut down power chord with just the earth attached work ? improve shielding... A eyelet crimp tab ? Screwed into the case and plugged into the safety ground of a normal power strip (Earth)

 

[ATTACH]29006[/ATTACH]

 

Example...

 

Here is the page and site full of info for those interested..

 

Designing Electronic Systems for EMC: Grounding for the Control of EMI - Interference TechnologyInterference Technology

 

A bit of learning and something else to think about....

Hi Middy, You can connect the shielding to AC ground/earth. It doesn't make an audible difference in my system though. Moreover, here there is a 500mV AC potential between AC ground and e.g. my body. All my audio gear upstream from the Intona (including power supplies) is disconnected from AC ground and (somehow) that makes an audible difference in my system. And I wouldn't connect the shielding to the USB casing; after all, the USB connection is what the Intona is isolating..

 

The article you linked to states: "Faraday shields must be properly grounded so as to provide maximum EMI protection." The reason for grounding a metal shielding would be to prevent it from becoming 'saturated'. I can say that my mobile phone doesn't work inside the aluminum casing of the Intona, either with - or without an AC ground connection and with the Intona working. So it seems to me that the shielding doesn't become saturated..

 

I wonder, BTW, whether shielding the Intona works by preventing EM radiation coming in or going out or both?

[Abtr]

I own a schitt modi multibit and imac 27 late 2013. i would like to give the intona standard version a go but i am hesitant after reading compatibility issues with usb cables etc. i am a relative newcomer to pc audio and the usb cables and connects i use are standard £20 ones. qed, cambridge audio etc. at present i don't have the means for expensive audiophile cables. the regen usb seems to work well but the intona seems to yield better results across the board. however with the problems the intona faces i don't know what to do? any advice would be great.

I use the Modi multibit and the Uptone Audio Regen (with iFi iPower 9V PS) and the standard Intona USB isolator and a MacMini (2015) for streaming computer audio without any problems. USB cables are AQ Cinnamon but I can also use 'standard cables'..

[Abtr]

I'm hoping to add the industrial version to my system very soon. i did email schitt audio to ask about the suitability of the intona for my modi multibit dac. the response i got was; 'It is an internal lps. It cannot be galvanically isolated because it is the power supply.' this is very basic stuff but can anyone make sense of this reply please. i thought the point was to isolate the dac fully including the in built in linear power supply? many thanks

Galvanic isolation is the principle of isolating functional sections of electrical systems to prevent current flow; no direct conduction path is permitted. Energy or information can still be exchanged between the sections by other means, such as capacitance, induction or electromagnetic waves, or by optical, acoustic or mechanical means. (https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Galvanic_isolation)

 

The Intona galvanically (electrically) isolates a USB-DAC from the USB-connection of (e.g.) a PC by means of capacitance. The Intona doesn't galvanically isolate in any way the main power supply of the Modi multibit, which is not the USB connection, but comes from a 16V (AC) wall-wart PS feeding the internal LPS.

 

Basically it's true that the internal LPS of the Modi multibit cannot be galvanically isolated from the DAC because it provides the final DC power. But this is a non-answer to a wrong question. Note that the built in LPS is galvanically isolated from AC mains power by the 16V wall-wart transformer by means of induction.