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Yggdrasil -- which power cord?


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I have ordered a Ygg & anxiously await its arrival.

 

In my experience power cords make huge differences (sometimes good, sometimes for naught) on digital equipment.

 

From the folks who already have it -- what power cord are you using with it, and what did you experiment with to get there?

 

Thanks ahead of time for the info.

 

Everybody have a good day,

m

If guns kill people, do pencils misspell words?

 

Mac Mini (w/Audirvana; MMK; JS2; ext SSD); AQJB; Curious USB; Regen; Curious (20cm); Yggdrasil; anti-cable 6.2 ic; Cary SLI-80 Sig (NOS tubes); diy VHaudio airlock sp; Merlin VSM's (sadly, last iteration); Cardas Clear & VHaudio Flav 4 pwr cords; Tripp Lite iso trans; diy power box; Syn Res ART; diy Shakti Hallograph (4); Bybee room neutralizers & signal enhancers; Furutech GTX outlets; Stillpoints Ultra SS & mini

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I'm a little disappointed to see that this question is not addressed in Schiit's Yggy FAQ.

 

Why? If you know Schiit, they really don't get into all that. I would bet their response would be something like "Whatever sounds best to you". Manufacturers usually don't mess around with trying 500 power cords trying to decide which is best...and then that would only apply to their preferences, which could be different than yours.

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They might also hold the opinion that a properly designed DAC might be immune to differences in power cords.

 

Yes, pretty likely. If you look at Schiit's photo of the guts of the Ygg, you will note that it has a RFI/EMI filter on the IEC power connector. (See the upper left-hand corner.) The same is true for the Gungnir and Bifrost.

 

yggy-pcb-1920.jpg

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I have ordered a Ygg & anxiously await its arrival.

 

In my experience power cords make huge differences (sometimes good, sometimes for naught) on digital equipment.

 

From the folks who already have it -- what power cord are you using with it, and what did you experiment with to get there?

 

Thanks ahead of time for the info.

 

Everybody have a good day,

m

 

I like using Eupen power cords with digital gear. They are medical grade cable designed to reduce rfi emmisions.

 

2012 Mac Mini, i5 - 2.5 GHz, 16 GB RAM. SSD,  PM/PV software, Focusrite Clarett 4Pre 4 channel interface. Daysequerra M4.0X Broadcast monitor., My_Ref Evolution rev a , Klipsch La Scala II, Blue Sky Sub 12

Clarett used as ADC for vinyl rips.

Corning Optical Thunderbolt cable used to connect computer to 4Pre. Dac fed by iFi iPower and Noise Trapper isolation transformer. 

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Why? If you know Schiit, they really don't get into all that. I would bet their response would be something like "Whatever sounds best to you". Manufacturers usually don't mess around with trying 500 power cords trying to decide which is best...and then that would only apply to their preferences, which could be different than yours.

 

That is exactly why I would like to see this question in the Yggy FAQ. Their response to such questions is typically entertaining and irreverent.

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That is exactly why I would like to see this question in the Yggy FAQ. Their response to such questions is typically entertaining and irreverent.

 

I can't see how that would be productive to the original query; but hey, I've been wrong before (& will be again).

If guns kill people, do pencils misspell words?

 

Mac Mini (w/Audirvana; MMK; JS2; ext SSD); AQJB; Curious USB; Regen; Curious (20cm); Yggdrasil; anti-cable 6.2 ic; Cary SLI-80 Sig (NOS tubes); diy VHaudio airlock sp; Merlin VSM's (sadly, last iteration); Cardas Clear & VHaudio Flav 4 pwr cords; Tripp Lite iso trans; diy power box; Syn Res ART; diy Shakti Hallograph (4); Bybee room neutralizers & signal enhancers; Furutech GTX outlets; Stillpoints Ultra SS & mini

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These are the Theta dudes, right?

 

Used a Shunyata with the "magic dust" on my Theta Gen V with outstanding results, glare and edge gone, depth and mid range clarity added. Not sure if Shunyata even used the dust anymore?

 

Well, a Theta dude-and-a-half. :)

 

Mike Moffat was one of the founders (in fact if you can find one of the great preamps he designed prior to the formation of Theta Digital, it has a Greek letter theta on the faceplate); Jason Stoddard, who'd previously designed amps at Sumo, worked with Mike on the Theta Cobalt before Mike left the company. I don't know if Jason was an employee, and if so, for how long.

One never knows, do one? - Fats Waller

The fairest thing we can experience is the mysterious. It is the fundamental emotion which stands at the cradle of true art and true science. - Einstein

Computer, Audirvana -> optical Ethernet to Fitlet3 -> Fibbr Alpha Optical USB -> iFi NEO iDSD DAC -> Apollon Audio 1ET400A Mini (Purifi based) -> Vandersteen 3A Signature.

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  • 3 weeks later...

You will probably never get a good answer to this question as there is no good answer. It is all depending on the character of your specific set-up. It all comes down to trying as much cables as possible and deciding what sounds best for you and is within your budget.

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That is exactly why I would like to see this question in the Yggy FAQ. Their response to such questions is typically entertaining and irreverent.

 

I believe Jason once suggested you look at your house wiring, then ask yourself whether the last three feet really make that much difference.

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I believe you can fix 200 miles of sin with 3 feet of religion.

 

Get the most insanely expensive power cable you can manage to drive something that operates in the milliwatt range. Nuke the planet from orbit it's the only way to be sure.

 

Make sure you not only trust your ears but your eyes also. You have to compare them sighted so you know when the 3rd party cable is installed it's the one sounding the best. Make sure to cook the hell out of it too.

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I believe you can fix 200 miles of sin with 3 feet of religion.

 

Get the most insanely expensive power cable you can manage to drive something that operates in the milliwatt range. Nuke the planet from orbit it's the only way to be sure.

 

Make sure you not only trust your ears but your eyes also. You have to compare them sighted so you know when the 3rd party cable is installed it's the one sounding the best. Make sure to cook the hell out of it too.

 

:)

 

Actually the power coming from outside is almost always excellent quality. It has to meet regulatory standards whereby it will stand up to the crap put into the line *inside* the home and still be acceptable quality.

 

A power cord could conceivably help in two ways:

 

- Keep some of the crap from other household electricals out of the audio system.

 

- Keep some of the crap from the audio component from feeding into the power side of the rest of the audio system.

 

I haven't tested any cords to see whether they measurably do this. I just wanted to point out the concept of outside power supply as the source of distortion is largely in error.

One never knows, do one? - Fats Waller

The fairest thing we can experience is the mysterious. It is the fundamental emotion which stands at the cradle of true art and true science. - Einstein

Computer, Audirvana -> optical Ethernet to Fitlet3 -> Fibbr Alpha Optical USB -> iFi NEO iDSD DAC -> Apollon Audio 1ET400A Mini (Purifi based) -> Vandersteen 3A Signature.

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:)

 

Actually the power coming from outside is almost always excellent quality. It has to meet regulatory standards whereby it will stand up to the crap put into the line *inside* the home and still be acceptable quality.

 

A power cord could conceivably help in two ways:

 

- Keep some of the crap from other household electricals out of the audio system.

 

- Keep some of the crap from the audio component from feeding into the power side of the rest of the audio system.

 

I haven't tested any cords to see whether they measurably do this. I just wanted to point out the concept of outside power supply as the source of distortion is largely in error.

 

Gotta watch that though. It's a slippery slope. The question is how? Ferrite inductor? Ground lift (could be dangerous)? Extra heavy gauge?

 

Inductance will be a problem regardless of cable construction also.

 

Power is 120v/Neutral/Ground so CMNR is out unless you are doing -60/0/+60 balanced power (that has real technical merit).

 

I've seen many a moron use a $1000 power cable on unbalanced electrical circuits when that same $1000 would be better spent on an electrician.

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Reading the Schiit FAQ's leads me to believe that they and I, for some reason, shared in the past many of the same type of customer/s.

 

One of the principals has literally written a book about his experiences that you can read over at Head-Fi.

One never knows, do one? - Fats Waller

The fairest thing we can experience is the mysterious. It is the fundamental emotion which stands at the cradle of true art and true science. - Einstein

Computer, Audirvana -> optical Ethernet to Fitlet3 -> Fibbr Alpha Optical USB -> iFi NEO iDSD DAC -> Apollon Audio 1ET400A Mini (Purifi based) -> Vandersteen 3A Signature.

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I believe Jason once suggested you look at your house wiring, then ask yourself whether the last three feet really make that much difference.

 

It's really the first three feet from the perspective of a component. That cord can dictate how quickly the component can draw current to respond to transients. It can also dictate how much noise is radiated in close proximity to sensitive analog circuits.

Digital:  Sonore opticalModule > Uptone EtherRegen > Shunyata Sigma Ethernet > Antipodes K30 > Shunyata Omega USB > Gustard X26pro DAC < Mutec REF10 SE120

Amp & Speakers:  Spectral DMA-150mk2 > Aerial 10T

Foundation: Stillpoints Ultra, Shunyata Denali v1 and Typhon x1 power conditioners, Shunyata Delta v2 and QSA Lanedri Gamma Revelation and Infinity power cords, QSA Lanedri Gamma Revelation XLR interconnect, Shunyata Sigma Ethernet, MIT Matrix HD 60 speaker cables, GIK bass traps, ASC Isothermal tube traps, Stillpoints Aperture panels, Quadraspire SVT rack, PGGB 256

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