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Equipment isolation and vibration damping.


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the choice of material may depend on preferred type of music. For example, in my system aluminum plates under speakers on a top of bearings/balls give better defined low end punch and smooth mids and works better for rock, reggae, etc. But, hard ceramic plates in the same position gives more air, transparency to more lifelike highs and works better for classic or chamber...

 

Have you thought to try the ceramic plates under the aluminum ?

 

Are the ceramic and alu plates same size as bottom of your speakers, or smaller with multiple plates ?

 

I recently changed from thin steel disks between my speaker bases(wood) and the ball bearings, to 4" square, smoothly glazed, porcelain tiles. I think they sound better, but my system has been through too many uncontrolled changes to say for sure.

 

How are you polishing your alu bowls ?

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Have you thought to try the ceramic plates under the aluminum ?

 

Are the ceramic and alu plates same size as bottom of your speakers, or smaller with multiple plates ?

 

I recently changed from thin steel disks between my speaker bases(wood) and the ball bearings, to 4" square, smoothly glazed, porcelain tiles. I think they sound better, but my system has been through too many uncontrolled changes to say for sure.

 

How are you polishing your alu bowls ?

 

I've got these (lipped white porcelain plates) and these (silicon nitride bearings) coming on slow boat...

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Hi AnotherSpin,

 

Something sounds amiss but I don't know exactly what.

I say this because proper isolation should not alter tonality. It simply allows us to hear the inherent character of the gear better, or put another way, it frees the gear to do what it is capable of doing.

 

Best regards,

Barry

Soundkeeper Recordings

www.soundkeeperrecordings.wordpress.com

Barry Diament Audio

 

Yes, but you do hear difference between chrome and tungsten balls?

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Have you thought to try the ceramic plates under the aluminum ?

 

Are the ceramic and alu plates same size as bottom of your speakers, or smaller with multiple plates ?

 

I recently changed from thin steel disks between my speaker bases(wood) and the ball bearings, to 4" square, smoothly glazed, porcelain tiles. I think they sound better, but my system has been through too many uncontrolled changes to say for sure.

 

How are you polishing your alu bowls ?

 

Yes, I had a thought about combining, but didn't try yet...)

 

Alu plates are approx. the same size as speaker bottom, ceramic 10x10 cm.

 

Polishing felt head for drill with chrome oxide polishing paste.

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I've got these (lipped white porcelain plates)

 

Cool ! But they may be just a bit too small ? I would suggest putting some damping material in that bottom space; a 'la the Symposium Series 2 blocks.

 

 

and these (silicon nitride bearings) coming on slow boat...

 

Sigh, $5 each !?!, still too rich for me. And I think I recall someone being not too happy with the sound of ceramic balls, but not sure. At least we should get another data point from you when you get them and do a controlled test. :)

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Yes, but you do hear difference between chrome and tungsten balls?

 

And tungsten carbide is a ceramic. Another really good option to consider is Silicon Carbide ... similar hardness to Tungsten Carbide at 1/2 the price.

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I floated my turntable last night. 12" bike tube, low inflation. I was really pleased.

 

And that is what I heard as I haven't heard it in the almost 40yrs I have been playing it. Pretty darn good!

Lots of details, noise, etc. The piano sounded more like a piano, especially the higher notes which can really sound hard.

 

Here I was able to hear the timbre of the voice really well in its complexity.

 

I heard this transition wonderfully clearly. I hadn't realised how early the wind begins within the crescendo.

 

Today I have been playing the Moondance album and think the bass is more prominent than it has ever been and I am a little concerned there may be some bass bloat. I have now got Astral Weeks playing, and it has an acoustic bass, and it is definitely up in the mix. I can't let any more air out as it is just clearing the valve.

 

When you hear 'new' things in well-known tracks, you know you're on the right track of progress. These are quite good results with your turntable.

 

Mine already has spring isolation, one for the platter, one for the tonearm base, so I'm not sure it will benefit.

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Mad Scientist

 

That sounds like me. :P

 

The feeling I get when I see these kinds of arrangements is that of too much constraint for the ball, just like in Herbie's solutions. I haven't listened to them but I get the impression that there will be too much friction on the sides of the balls that way.

 

I'd rather use a shallow cup, with some space around for motion, and really, only two tiny points of contact, one above, one below.

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These are likely too heavy duty, the smallest is rated at 100# per unit. To achieve that the wall thickness of the pod will be great enough to cause issues.

 

The design is a good one to build on.

 

No one has mentioned it as of yet, but one could use Sodium Hexaflouride in Barry's inner tube concept. It is more compress-able whereby allowing a higher tube pressure or a lower resonant frequency than compressed atmosphere.

 

I mentioned a fluid-filled air-chamber much earlier in the thread when I was mentioning damping.

 

I still need to try the cheap re-usable ice-cubes: they are partially filled, probably with water. I want to test for solidity of the outer layer first before using these near my components.

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Update: Need to be considered as well - the choice of material may depend on preferred type of music.

 

Very good point.

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Another really good option to consider is Silicon Carbide ... similar hardness to Tungsten Carbide at 1/2 the price.

 

Nice one, jabbr.

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And tungsten carbide is a ceramic. Another really good option to consider is Silicon Carbide ... similar hardness to Tungsten Carbide at 1/2 the price.

 

Hi jabbr,

 

Is it? I thought it is a combination of tungsten (a rare metal) and carbon.

?

Whatever it is, it makes a good roller bearing ball.

 

Best regards,

Barry

Soundkeeper Recordings

http://www.soundkeeperrecordings.wordpress.com

Barry Diament Audio

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hi - barry. thanks for the suggestion. i read on Stereophile.com from 2009 that you have a way to inflate your tube in situ. could you explain how please?

 

and i have been pondering my speakers - SF Cremona M's, which are tall, thin, spiked and lean backwards. currently i have them coupled to my wooden floor by having the spikes in square-drive screws screwed into the floor through the carpet.

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Hi jabbr,

 

Is it? I thought it is a combination of tungsten (a rare metal) and carbon.

?

Whatever it is, it makes a good roller bearing ball.

 

Best regards,

Barry

Soundkeeper Recordings

www.soundkeeperrecordings.wordpress.com

Barry Diament Audio

 

Silicon, the metalloid, is a very well known component of ceramics, like calcium and aluminum. Silicon, tungsten, titanium 1:1 with carbon form carbides and are the basis for some very hard ceramics e.g. carborundum. In looking up some of the hardness data, I was surprised to see how soft glass is compared to metals, and even harder ceramics. From what you have found, you prefer hard bearings. So from a hardness/cost perspective silicon nitride and carbide are attractive.

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I'd rather use a shallow cup, with some space around for motion, and really, only two tiny points of contact, one above, one below.

 

I agree, but don't think much 'motion' space is needed, since all the microscopic action is happening through those tiny points of contact.

 

Only in setup would I see much use for extensive ball travel.

 

 

I still need to try the cheap re-usable ice-cubes: they are partially filled, probably with water. I want to test for solidity of the outer layer first before using these near my components.

 

Sounds like just somemore squishy stuff to me :)

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hi - barry. thanks for the suggestion. i read on Stereophile.com from 2009 that you have a way to inflate your tube in situ. could you explain how please?

 

and i have been pondering my speakers - SF Cremona M's, which are tall, thin, spiked and lean backwards. currently i have them coupled to my wooden floor by having the spikes in square-drive screws screwed into the floor through the carpet.

 

Hi rocl444,

 

My rack design allows me to change inflation on any shelf while them music is playing, but as there is the possibility--albeit small--that this may one day become a side venture, I have not shared the methods. I hope you understand. (It certainly is a great way to show the benefits of air support though -- let the air out and the soundstage collapses, virtually back into the speakers. Reinflate and the speakers "disappear" again.)

 

I use roller bearings in combination with air bearings everywhere *except* under my speakers and subs. Too high a center of gravity and I don't want to risk a tilt and consequent fall. Getting the speakers "afloat" was one of the best improvements I've ever made to the system. The only caveat I would offer, as I mentioned in Vibration control for better performance is that cable "dressing" must be attended to, and clean ac power is key. The only system where I've not heard great improvements with roller bearings had dirty ac power and all the cables jumbled together behind a rack.

 

Best regards,

Barry

Soundkeeper Recordings

http://www.soundkeeperrecordings.wordpress.com

Barry Diament Audio

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Silicon, the metalloid, is a very well known component of ceramics, like calcium and aluminum. Silicon, tungsten, titanium 1:1 with carbon form carbides and are the basis for some very hard ceramics e.g. carborundum. In looking up some of the hardness data, I was surprised to see how soft glass is compared to metals, and even harder ceramics. From what you have found, you prefer hard bearings. So from a hardness/cost perspective silicon nitride and carbide are attractive.

 

Hi jabbr,

 

Interesting. Thank you for the explanation.

Yes, glass is relatively soft, and it flexes, which is why I've suggested against its use for isolators. (It also rings which is why I don't recommend glass shelves.)

 

Best regards,

Barry

Soundkeeper Recordings

http://www.soundkeeperrecordings.wordpress.com

Barry Diament Audio

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Aluminum is not a material with optimal damping properties. Here is a link to a lot of measurements: damping factor values : damping factors. Also Al 7075 has much higher stiffness and hardness than 6061 but rings equally. But aluminum laminated to other material (in constraint layer idea) behaves much better.

I made some panels with Al laminated to richlite (a paper fiber based phenolic board) and there were very quiet. Presently I am trying Al bonded to a graphite block (not carbon fiber composite).

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Barry wrote - One other possibility is the plinth of the table itself. Try resting the stylus in the lead-in groove of a record *without* the table spinning. Then, with the volume at something close to your normal listening level, tap *very* lightly on the top of the plinth with your fingers. If you hear a rumbling through the speakers, I would suspect the turntable is very sensitive to airborne vibrations.

 

at "normal volumes there is nothing. at 12 o'clock which is as far as i ever go and only very occasionally, i can hear the tapping through the speakers. the plinth is made from acrylic - a Well Tempered Amadeus.

 

Barry wrote - The only system where I've not heard great improvements with roller bearings had dirty ac power and all the cables jumbled together behind a rack.

 

fortunately EVERYTHING in NZ is clean and green - even our electricity :-)

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Barry wrote - The only system where I've not heard great improvements with roller bearings had dirty ac power and all the cables jumbled together behind a rack.

 

A fellow member was talking about isolating his AC Power distribution, and when I finish mine, probably along the week or next week-end, I am going to try isolating it as well.

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Are you saying that your tonearm moves independently from the platter?

When you hear 'new' things in well-known tracks, you know you're on the right track of progress. These are quite good results with your turntable.

 

Mine already has spring isolation, one for the platter, one for the tonearm base, so I'm not sure it will benefit.

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... glass rings which is why I don't recommend glass shelves.

 

Barry,

 

I understand the ringing in large plates like shelves, but wonder if that is not a big factor with smaller pieces of glass that are only passing force through, not around the plate ?

 

I'm still curious about those glass lens 'bowls' John Swenson talked about. (without links :(

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Barry,

 

I understand the ringing in large plates like shelves, but wonder if that is not a big factor with smaller pieces of glass that are only passing force through, not around the plate ?

 

I'm still curious about those glass lens 'bowls' John Swenson talked about. (without links :(

 

Hi Dave,

 

Someone said aluminum rings. I have not been able to get such a response from the Hip Joints (the 7075 "bowls" for my roller bearing design) and do not believe it is a concern in terms of an audible effect on the results. On the contrary, I've found the performance to be stunning. I would not choose it as a shelf material.

With glass as the material for a roller bearing bowl, the larger issue, in my opinion, is its tendency to flex. It may work under very light components but I'd still prefer using a harder material.

 

Best regards,

Barry

http://www.soundkeeperrecordings.com

http://www.soundkeeperrecordings.wordpress.com

http://www.barrydiamentaudio.com

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Are you saying that your tonearm moves independently from the platter?

 

I thought so, but on checking, no it's not separate isolation platforms, it is a single one although it appears from the upper surface to be two different areas.

 

The platform is, however, a spring-based isolated one.

 

It's a Technics SL-1800 direct-drive, quite similar to the original SL-1200 but with less features.

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