Jump to content
IGNORED

Cable Management Ideas


Recommended Posts

A major bugbear for most of us I think. Looking at your birdsnest, I think you are lucky in that you dont have that much there.

I have asked before about possible solutions. Seems that none are available although I dont see what can really be done.

As far as the impact on sound quality goes, if possible keep mains and signal leads as far apart as possible. If they have to cross then try to cross them at right angles to each other in order to minimise the possible pick up of RFI/EMI.

MacMini 8Gb OSX > Pure Music / Bitperfect / Amarra / iTunes > Synology DS215J NAS > Schiit Wyrd > Stello U3 > Naim Uniti Atom, Harbeth P3ESR. Meier Corda Arietta Headphone Amp > Sennhieser HD650 Phones (Cardas rewire). Isol-8 Powerline Axis. Isotek GII Orion Power Conditioner. Cardas Clear USB Cable. Tellurium Q Black Speaker Cable. All other cables by Mark Grant.

Vinyl still has it's place. Technics SL1200. Modified with Mike New Bearing, KAB Strobe Disable, MCRU 2 box PSU, Isonoe Feet, SME M2-9 Tonearm > Goldring 2400 >Rothwell Simplex Phonostage.

Link to comment
Hello,

 

I am looking for suggestions / ideas of how to improve the bee's nest of cables behind my rack. See picture

 

[ATTACH=CONFIG]17553[/ATTACH]

 

 

 

 

Does this impact SQ?

 

thanks,

Udi

 

Believe me when I say that yours looks better than most. I have seen some genuine disasters in my time. ;)

 

I don't like to have signal cables near power cables. If unavoidable, cross them at 90 degree angles as mentioned above. Also, it looks like your Wireworld IC's are right up against the wall. I'd try and give them a bit more space. Putting undue pressure on an audio jack might ultimately cause a problem.

 

I once redid cabling in a system for a guy who had way too many components for his own good. I used 1" PVC painted to the color he wanted to route his signal cables that was more pleasing to the eye.

Appreciation of audio is a completely subjective human experience. Measurements can provide a measure of insight, but are no substitute for human judgment. Why are we looking to reduce a subjective experience to objective criteria anyway? The subtleties of music and audio reproduction are for those who appreciate it. Differentiation by numbers is for those who do not." — Nelson Pass

Link to comment
A major bugbear for most of us I think. Looking at your birdsnest, I think you are lucky in that you dont have that much there.

I have asked before about possible solutions. Seems that none are available although I dont see what can really be done.

As far as the impact on sound quality goes, if possible keep mains and signal leads as far apart as possible. If they have to cross then try to cross them at right angles to each other in order to minimise the possible pick up of RFI/EMI.

 

 

I've tried everything including those in-rack cable channels with the trough consisting of a "U"-shaped channel with slots all along both sides for cable exits and a plastic snap-on lid called Pandit "Patchlink". Yes, it made things much tidier looking, but it didn't make it very easy to change things or to add any components or cables. Ultimately it caused more trouble than it was worth! I'm still looking. Meanwhile I have the usual system rat's nest that is even worse than yours. Part of my problem is that as a reviewer, I'm always changing-out components, and most organization schemes seem to just get in my way. One thing that can affect SQ is that it's good practice to try very hard to keep signal cables and mains cords on opposite sides of your components. Manufacturers make this difficult by not standardizing which side of the components' back apron they situate the i/O and the power cords on!

 

 

3EXX1_AS01.jpeg

George

Link to comment
I've tried everything including those in-rack cable channels with the trough consisting of a "U"-shaped channel with slots all along both sides for cable exits and a plastic snap-on lid called Pandit "Patchlink". Yes, it made things much tidier looking, but it didn't make it very easy to change things or to add any components or cables. Ultimately it caused more trouble than it was worth! I'm still looking. Meanwhile I have the usual system rat's nest that is even worse than yours. Part of my problem is that as a reviewer, I'm always changing-out components, and most organization schemes seem to just get in my way. One thing that can affect SQ is that it's good practice to try very hard to keep signal cables and mains cords on opposite sides of your components. Manufacturers make this difficult by not standardizing which side of the components' back apron they situate the i/O and the power cords on!

 

 

[ATTACH=CONFIG]17557[/ATTACH]

 

+1. And every time I untangle them, they seem to magically retangle themselves. It's one of the reasons I'm thinking of a solution with good SQ and fewer boxes.

Main listening (small home office):

Main setup: Surge protector +_iFi  AC iPurifiers >Isol-8 Mini sub Axis Power Conditioning+Isolation>QuietPC Low Noise Server>Roon (Audiolense DRC)>Stack Audio Link II>Kii Control>Kii Three >GIK Room Treatments.

Secondary Path: Server with Audiolense RC>RPi4 or analog>Cayin iDAC6 MKII (tube mode) (XLR)>Kii Three .

Bedroom: SBTouch to Cambridge Soundworks Desktop Setup.
Living Room/Kitchen: Ropieee (RPi3b+ with touchscreen) + Schiit Modi3E to a pair of Morel Hogtalare. 

All absolute statements about audio are false :)

Link to comment

I am trying to find some kind of grid rack that could be hung on the wall behind my audio rack. The grid could be made of a wooden frame with bungees disposed in crosses to make the grid.

 

Another way to do this would be to find a piece of plexiglas (or acrylic) with enough )ans sized depending on ones needs) round holes in it, with spacers to allow the manipulation of the cables between the plexi and the wall.

Alain

Link to comment
I am trying to find some kind of grid rack that could be hung on the wall behind my audio rack. The grid could be made of a wooden frame with bungees disposed in crosses to make the grid.

 

Another way to do this would be to find a piece of plexiglas (or acrylic) with enough )ans sized depending on ones needs) round holes in it, with spacers to allow the manipulation of the cables between the plexi and the wall.

 

My rack has a panel behind it (which is typical), I made 3" offsets so that the panel now mounts 3" behind the back of the rack. The panel has holes in it for cord penetration. What I did was I ran all signal cables on the back of the rack shelves and ran all power cables behind the panel. That forces all power runs to be in a plane that is several inches behind the plane for my signal cables. In order for the power cables to reach this plane they have to cross the signal plane at 90 degrees, I did have to punch three more holes in the panel to get out the power cords out of there quickly. In order to keep the signal cables on the shelves, except the few cases where they run from one shelf to the next, I placed a small piece of stiff black cardboard on the back of each shelf creating a little wall about 1" high to keep the cables contained. Note that my rack is low and wide, three components wide by three components tall - however this technique should work on a vertical shelf system as well. As for cable turn radius, some of them stick out the back a bit, but well within the seperate 3" power plane.

 

As optimal as that was supposed to be I now find that I have TWO rats nests, but they aren't near as ugly and are somewhat managable. Regardless, I do have the peace of mind that my signal and power lines are not layering all over each other. I'll get around to pics sometime...

Analog: Koetsu Rosewood > VPI Aries 3 w/SDS > EAR 834P > EAR 834L: Audiodesk cleaner

Digital Fun: DAS > CAPS v3 w/LPS (JRMC) SOtM USB > Lynx Hilo > EAR 834L

Digital Serious: DAS > CAPS v3 w/LPS (HQPlayer) Ethernet > SMS-100 NAA > Lampi DSD L4 G5 > EAR 834L

Digital Disc: Oppo BDP 95 > EAR 834L

Output: EAR 834L > Xilica XP4080 DSP > Odessey Stratos Mono Extreme > Legacy Aeris

Phones: EAR 834L > Little Dot Mk ii > Senheiser HD 800

Link to comment

Hi Jabs1542,

 

I am of the "visual" kind :) If you ever have the occasion to take a few picture of that panel, I would be interested to see how it physically looks.

 

I must admit that my own explanations are not detailed, but I was googling yesterday evening in an attempt to see what could be available for our search about cables management. Shoe racks, wine bottle racks... Etc...

 

I do have all that is required to make something with wood (at least the frame) and I realize that with bungees there is no screw required (a bungee has a "crochet" at each end, but in the same time I was hoping to find something that would be avalable for others.

 

My take was that the AC cables could all go right down the audio rack itself, without being hung on the cable rack, but of course if it was possible to have them also lifted (but separated from the ICs and such, it would be also practical when one wants to pass the vacuum cleaner...

 

Edit: Ah, I think I understand (the "offset", one set for the AC cables, the other for the signal cables) ? A little lika a clothes dryer with 2 different depths ?

 

Regards,

Alain

Link to comment
My rack has a panel behind it (which is typical), I made 3" offsets so that the panel now mounts 3" behind the back of the rack. The panel has holes in it for cord penetration. What I did was I ran all signal cables on the back of the rack shelves and ran all power cables behind the panel. That forces all power runs to be in a plane that is several inches behind the plane for my signal cables. In order for the power cables to reach this plane they have to cross the signal plane at 90 degrees, I did have to punch three more holes in the panel to get out the power cords out of there quickly. In order to keep the signal cables on the shelves, except the few cases where they run from one shelf to the next, I placed a small piece of stiff black cardboard on the back of each shelf creating a little wall about 1" high to keep the cables contained. Note that my rack is low and wide, three components wide by three components tall - however this technique should work on a vertical shelf system as well. As for cable turn radius, some of them stick out the back a bit, but well within the seperate 3" power plane.

 

As optimal as that was supposed to be I now find that I have TWO rats nests, but they aren't near as ugly and are somewhat managable. Regardless, I do have the peace of mind that my signal and power lines are not layering all over each other. I'll get around to pics sometime...

 

 

can you post a pic?

Link to comment
My rack has a panel behind it (which is typical), I made 3" offsets so that the panel now mounts 3" behind the back of the rack. The panel has holes in it for cord penetration. What I did was I ran all signal cables on the back of the rack shelves and ran all power cables behind the panel. That forces all power runs to be in a plane that is several inches behind the plane for my signal cables. In order for the power cables to reach this plane they have to cross the signal plane at 90 degrees, I did have to punch three more holes in the panel to get out the power cords out of there quickly. In order to keep the signal cables on the shelves, except the few cases where they run from one shelf to the next, I placed a small piece of stiff black cardboard on the back of each shelf creating a little wall about 1" high to keep the cables contained. Note that my rack is low and wide, three components wide by three components tall - however this technique should work on a vertical shelf system as well. As for cable turn radius, some of them stick out the back a bit, but well within the seperate 3" power plane.

 

As optimal as that was supposed to be I now find that I have TWO rats nests, but they aren't near as ugly and are somewhat managable. Regardless, I do have the peace of mind that my signal and power lines are not layering all over each other. I'll get around to pics sometime...

 

Sorry I completely misunderstood your description at first but I now can emvision what you did (mostly). My rack is open (no back). Worse, I will have to take in account that I have a window behind the rack so I will have to forget about hanging it to a wall...Therefore the grid I am thinking about will need to stand on its own (on the floor).

 

I grabbed a photo of something that could at least give an idea about what I am in mind, but it can have different shapes, as long as there are separations.

 

Udis, from the pic you took, it looks like you could hang something on the wall. With an offset of at least 3 inches, it could help you organize your cables. The only problem is to find (or have it made) the right grid, with the right measurements and know where to hang it firmly on the wall.

 

My only Advice is not to use "tie wraps" to hold the cables as it could damage them internally.

 

[ATTACH=CONFIG]17572[/ATTACH]

Alain

Link to comment

Alain, linky no worky!

MacMini 8Gb OSX > Pure Music / Bitperfect / Amarra / iTunes > Synology DS215J NAS > Schiit Wyrd > Stello U3 > Naim Uniti Atom, Harbeth P3ESR. Meier Corda Arietta Headphone Amp > Sennhieser HD650 Phones (Cardas rewire). Isol-8 Powerline Axis. Isotek GII Orion Power Conditioner. Cardas Clear USB Cable. Tellurium Q Black Speaker Cable. All other cables by Mark Grant.

Vinyl still has it's place. Technics SL1200. Modified with Mike New Bearing, KAB Strobe Disable, MCRU 2 box PSU, Isonoe Feet, SME M2-9 Tonearm > Goldring 2400 >Rothwell Simplex Phonostage.

Link to comment
Alain, linky no worky!

Ah... Sorry about that. I click on the attachment and it works for me... I just tried to do a copy/paste but it refuses to paste (mentioning an error). I will try the best I can to find the URL where this picture was taken from and put that instead.

Alain

Link to comment

This is not what I put first, but to save time, I will put this link: Black 2' x 6' Grid Wall Standing Screen | Store Supply Warehouse

 

It only shows what I mean by "grid". There are grids that can be hung on a wall, others that have a base to support them. Of course this one is quite big, but I imagine that there are ways to get something smaller and with different material (wood, plastic, etc..). Someone that can DIY could use a wooden frame and an acrylic sheet with circular holes attached to that frame (this would ensure some offset for space behind the grid).

 

For the moment I have played with "wall grid hanger" in Google and selected "Images", but being patient and playing with derivative words may allow one to find something already made and not expensive... Even typing "wall clothes hanger" can bring interesting ideas...

 

Hope this helps...

Alain

Link to comment
Edit: Ah, I think I understand (the "offset", one set for the AC cables, the other for the signal cables) ? A little lika a clothes dryer with 2 different depths ?

Regards,

 

Yes, two different depths behind the rack, sort of like two separated vertical planes. This concept may not work so well in front of a window and you definitely lose a little depth space in the room because the equipment rack has to be further away from the wall.

 

I'll see if I can carve out some time for pictures...

Analog: Koetsu Rosewood > VPI Aries 3 w/SDS > EAR 834P > EAR 834L: Audiodesk cleaner

Digital Fun: DAS > CAPS v3 w/LPS (JRMC) SOtM USB > Lynx Hilo > EAR 834L

Digital Serious: DAS > CAPS v3 w/LPS (HQPlayer) Ethernet > SMS-100 NAA > Lampi DSD L4 G5 > EAR 834L

Digital Disc: Oppo BDP 95 > EAR 834L

Output: EAR 834L > Xilica XP4080 DSP > Odessey Stratos Mono Extreme > Legacy Aeris

Phones: EAR 834L > Little Dot Mk ii > Senheiser HD 800

Link to comment

Yes it will require more space, but on the positive side, if it can prevent from having all these on the floor when one wants to use a vacuum or simply disconnect/reconnect something...

 

I wished I had the space to put all on one table (all being side by side)... But I have to rethink if I try to squeeze my sound system between my speakers or I try to leave it aside of the right speaker as it has been... The speaker cables I bought are too short and this is a headache...

 

Plus vibration control...

 

Choices, choices...

Alain

Link to comment
One thing that can affect SQ is that it's good practice to try very hard to keep signal cables and mains cords on opposite sides of your components. Manufacturers make this difficult by not standardizing which side of the components' back apron they situate the i/O and the power cords on!

 

this is part of my challenge... is it easier to drop the rack and place everything on one long surface side by side (with some vibration control)?

Link to comment

Hi Udis,

 

I suppose this is dependant on where your system is installed and how you feel it is better for you to have your components placed.

 

I used to have a long furniture on which all my components were side by side, but now I have a vertical rack (like yours) and the puzzle is different, but with similar problems.

 

As you can see, there are different ways to solve a problem, depending on the furniture your system is on (or in), if it has a backing (or not), etc...

 

The "grid" thing is only one solution (of many others), but until I read this thread, I did not have a clue about this situation.

 

And for this I thank you because now I have a potential solution to settle this for good in the following times :)

Alain

Link to comment
Hi Udis,

 

I suppose this is dependant on where your system is installed and how you feel it is better for you to have your components placed.

 

I used to have a long furniture on which all my components were side by side, but now I have a vertical rack (like yours) and the puzzle is different, but with similar problems.

 

As you can see, there are different ways to solve a problem, depending on the furniture your system is on (or in), if it has a backing (or not), etc...

 

The "grid" thing is only one solution (of many others), but until I read this thread, I did not have a clue about this situation.

 

And for this I thank you because now I have a potential solution to settle this for good in the following times :)

You are welcome Alain. i am still at a lost :) I was hoping i can just use soft ties and run cables down the left and right legs of the stand. Is that not recommended?
Link to comment

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


×
×
  • Create New...