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Auralic Aires: Optimizing sound quality


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I did a lot of SQ comparisons with multiple USB sticks, SSDs and 2,5" bus powered HDs.

 

The second best choice was a 2,5" bus powered 1 TB My Passport slim drive from WD, that sounded even better than the internal original Apple SSD.

 

I did as well try several Samsung SSDs via the adapter that came with the SSDs without using a special housing for them.

 

The 2,5" bus powered My Passport slim drive from WD came out on top again.

 

I tried various USB-Sticks and bus powered 2,5" HDs and SSDs with the Aries, before I settled for the 4 TB MY Book Studio by WD that I am using right now.

Hello,

 

it sounds strange for me, i was believing (without listening) that SSD was better than any mecanical disk because of less vibration, less consumption need.

 

Before i read your comment, i was planning to change my bus powered WD mypassport 1To to an external SSD drive in a housing with good usb cable to Aries.

But you experienced that the bus powered My Passport slim drive was better than any SSD external drive (bus powered).

 

So maybe, i have to investigate in a externally powered SSD drive, but i cannot find in 2.5 format. Must i also put a good sata cable inside or usb filter like ifi purifier? Many questions to solve :)

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Lots of interesting ideas in this thread. I just received my Aries yesterday and will just allow it to settle in a few days before attempting anything. That's more to allow my ears to get used to what I'm hearing. I need to get acclimated to all the improvements over my Mac Mini that was running A+.

 

A Nordost Magus power cord is supplying power to the Aries' LPS. I think I saw a fuse holder in the back of the LPS, so I may at some point try to swap in an audiophile fuse. That's lower priority though than addressing vibration.

 

I have a spare set of Stillpoints cones that I will try under the Aries. I also have a Herbie's SuperSonic Stabilizer that I can try to place on the top of the Aries.

 

 

Hey Kenny,

Wondered how the Stillpoints and the Stabilizer worked out with the Aries. Huge I bet :)

27x17x10 Golden Ratio room,EtherRegen>Melco N1A EX H60 server/streamer >T+A Dac 200>Coda CsIB > Paradigm Personas 5f, Combak Harmonica Footers, Townshend Podiums, Custom swarm sub system , Iconoclast 4x4 UPOCC XLR cable, Townshend F1 Fractal speaker cables  SoTM dBl7 Ethernet cable, Puritan 156, Farad 3 LPS,  Synergistic, Audience,and Triode wire labs power cabling ,Stillpoints, SR fuses,GIK Slatfusors

 

 

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Wondered how the Stillpoints and the Stabilizer worked out with the Aries. Huge I bet :)

 

I actually took it a step further. Instead of the Stabilizer, I placed my Stillpoints Ultra LP record weight on top of the Aries. This is basically a Stillpoints Ultra 5 sliced in half. The Stabilizer I left in place on top of my Mytek DAC. Three Stillpoints cones are under the Aries, pointing upward. The Mytek and the rest of my gear and speakers rest on Stillpoints Ultras.

 

I've been amazed with the magnitude of improvement since replacing my Mac Mini with the Aries. I can't yet comment on the how much the the Stillpoints helped the Aries. I'll yank them tonight and see what happens.

Digital:  Sonore opticalModule > Uptone EtherRegen > Shunyata Sigma Ethernet > Antipodes K30 > Shunyata Omega USB > Gustard X26pro DAC < Mutec REF10 SE120

Amp & Speakers:  Spectral DMA-150mk2 > Aerial 10T

Foundation: Stillpoints Ultra, Shunyata Denali v1 and Typhon x1 power conditioners, Shunyata Delta v2 and QSA Lanedri Gamma Revelation and Infinity power cords, QSA Lanedri Gamma Revelation XLR interconnect, Shunyata Sigma Ethernet, MIT Matrix HD 60 speaker cables, GIK bass traps, ASC Isothermal tube traps, Stillpoints Aperture panels, Quadraspire SVT rack, PGGB 256

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Has anyone tried the Mac-Mini platform from Atomic Audio Labs? I saw it under the Aries on Auralic's Facebook page, apparently being used at CES

 

Mojo audio has one that looks just like it too.

W10 NUC i7 (Gen 10) > Roon (Audiolense FIR) > Motu UltraLite mk5 > (4) Hypex NCore NC502MP > JBL M2 Master Reference +4 subs

 

Watch my Podcast https://www.youtube.com/channel/UCXMw_bZWBMtRWNJQfTJ38kA/videos

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Hello,

 

it sounds strange for me, i was believing (without listening) that SSD was better than any mecanical disk because of less vibration, less consumption need.

 

Before i read your comment, i was planning to change my bus powered WD mypassport 1To to an external SSD drive in a housing with good usb cable to Aries.

But you experienced that the bus powered My Passport slim drive was better than any SSD external drive (bus powered).

 

So maybe, i have to investigate in a externally powered SSD drive, but i cannot find in 2.5 format. Must i also put a good sata cable inside or usb filter like ifi purifier? Many questions to solve :)

 

Indeed; and not easy to solve. Hard to work out where the voltage is going. Perhaps someone can explain more.

SSD and small HDDs need only 5V. Big and 3.5 HDDs need 12V (to spin) plus 5V (for circuits). You can buy 2.5 caddies and adaptors with a 12V input but not sure where the 12V goes. Perhaps nowhere for drives that don't use 12V. Perhaps some of them convert 12V to 5V. I think some big drives need more 5V amps than USB can provide. If true, they must be getting some amps externally. Seems like USB devices needing lots of 5V amps draw some from USB and some from external power.

 

So for Matthias, is it possible that by using a big HDD with linear 12V PSU, some or all of his 5V is coming from the PSU rather than via USB from Aires? ...contributing to the improvement in SQ.

 

Fair to say these optimisations are less important for external drive than for internal (PC) drives or DAC connections but there is still some benefit to be gained.

I did more testing yesterday. For sure the combo of battery power to SSD, better USB cable & SOtM SATA filter improved SQ so I tried to determine which helps most. I felt that the better USB cable was helping and still feel that direct battery power to SSD was better than via my SATA-USB adaptor. Seems possible that the SATA-USB circuits of different caddies, docks, adaptors etc vary in terms of SQ; perhaps via the amount of noise they add to the power going through them.

 

Lots to learn but I'm suggesting it may not always be a simple case of finding the best type of drive. The way it connects to USB might be as important.

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Hello JDOz,

 

thanks for your useful comments. I share the same target.

 

I hope that best solution is the combo: housing, SSD, battery powered, good sata cable without 5v and sata filter.

 

What is model of the SATA-USB adaptor? And the direct battery you think about?

 

If you power directly the SSD with a battery, how to connect the SSD to the Aries (sata -> usb)?

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Hello JDOz,

 

thanks for your useful comments. I share the same target.

 

I hope that best solution is the combo: housing, SSD, battery powered, good sata cable without 5v and sata filter.

 

What is model of the SATA-USB adaptor? And the direct battery you think about?

 

If you power directly the SSD with a battery, how to connect the SSD to the Aries (sata -> usb)?

 

My current SSD set-up sounds great but looks terrible :-) It was intended just for testing and I'm still searching for something better. Sorry this will sound much more complex that it really is:

 

I could only find cheap generic SATA-USB adaptors; chosen simply for being available in my local shop; one inside my Altone 2.5 caddy and now using a Digitech USB3-SATA adaptor that does have a 12V input, (which is not in use for my SSD).

 

For direct battery power to SSD, I spliced together a cheap USB cable and cheap Molex-15pin SATA cable; i.e. simply ground (black) and 5V (red) wires now with 15 pin SATA at one end and male USB-A at the other.

 

The 15 pin power connector of my Samsung 840 Pro 512GB SSD is attached directly to a SOtM SATA3 filter. At the other end of SATA filter goes the spliced cable, with its USB end plugged into an (again cheap) 5V USB battery pack.

 

Perhaps unfortunately, this is the SOtM model that does not connect at all to the 7 pin data output of SSD and there is little space between 15 pin and 7 pin so I did need a SATA 7 pin data cable to connect SSD to the Digitech just to make things fit. Needed a male to female SATA cable so could only find a $5 generic one (audiophile SATA cables all female to female).

 

So now the SATA end of the Digitech is connected only via its 7 pin data plug; no power flows through it to SSD...but the digitech itself requires 5V into its USB end. If using the standard USB-A to micro-USB cable that comes with the Digitech, it will draw its power from the Aires. Tried that and it sounded good but I also had some split (2x USB-A to 1x USB-B) cables on hand so tried using them. This required a USB-B-micro-USB adaptor...you guessed it, $5. With the split cables, only the data leg connects Digitech to Aires. The 5V leg is plugged into another battery pack.

 

More later ;-)

 

JD

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My first attempt at battery power was much simpler. I used a split USB cable connected to Digitech adaptor. Data-only from Aries; power from battery pack. Potential advantages include benefit of battery power to Digitech and through to SSD; and also benefit from not having 5V travel from Aries right next to the data signal. Worth a try but for me it was not the best.

 

I've used only cheap no-brand battery packs. Beware that most are designed for recharging phones and they switch off automatically when current draw is low; and it is low with an SSD. At least with one that has 2x USB out, you can plug another device in as well to keep current draw higher.

 

No idea whether a linear PSU would be better than battery; or perhaps an audiophile model battery pack (PPA?). I was really just testing the concept and now that it worked (for me), I'm unsure what parts to upgrade or even where to find upgrades.

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Mojo audio has one that looks just like it too.

 

I have the Mojo Audio platform on order and a supply of steel BB's in the house. I should have it installed this weekend and will report back. I currently am using a plastic photo saver box filled with BB's as a weight on top of the Aries. I do believe is has cleaned up the sound a bit. Hard to describe but seemed to remove a bit of haze over the sound and made it sound more natural and live. I don't have any Stillpoints but I am using 3 generic isolation feet under the Aries. I also need to find a piece of granite to fit the rack tray where the Aries is installed.

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My current SSD set-up sounds great but looks terrible :-) It was intended just for testing and I'm still searching for something better. Sorry this will sound much more complex that it really is:

I think you have tested all combinations, which one missing you think better?

 

Your current SSD set-up is your working drive or is it your WD 3.5 modded base drive? I guess last one is better than ssd setup if i well understood you?

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Jason, are you sure you used an optimum grade of granite? I hear that NOS granite from the 50's and 60's is preferred :)

 

 

JC

 

You are dreaming sir - if it hasn't been cryogenically frozen you are just not getting the full potential!

 

On a serious note, I have tried different objects with differing weights in different positions and whilst I have noted some differences, I am not sure they are all for the better? I think people will get all sorts of differing results with this and isolation in general as it all depends on the construction of your floor, the build, weight and surface of what the component it is sitting on and where it is positioned as far as other outside influences are concerned.

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More than a few giggles down here as I hunted my house for heavy things. My Aries weight has been upgraded from a bucket of coins to a plastic bag of small aquarium stones. My Vega has a cork board and metal lid from casserole dish :)

Worth every cent I paid!

YHJMV (your household junk may vary)

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I have mine plugged into a PI Audio Group Digibuss. The Digibuss is something that Dave built me which is a bit of a minibus hybrid. Two outlets have different filtration versus the norm. Dave thought that would be best for certain digital as well as class d amps. This is plugged into my über buss of course.

 

it seems to help.

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As the case is plastic could people be putting any extra load on the circuit board connections which could lead to an early failure?

 

I haven't noticed any flex in the plastic case but I do worry about impeding the heat dissipation. It gets quite warm.

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I did more testing yesterday. For sure the combo of battery power to SSD, better USB cable & SOtM SATA filter improved SQ so I tried to determine which helps most.

Hello JDOz,

 

After your last testing, do you keep thinking your modded 4Tb WD is still better than the combo listed above?

 

Also, i cannot find linear PSU for TFT monitor, do you have a link?

 

Thanks

Fabien

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Hello Aries owners,

 

I tried to build my own short USB DAC cable with 2 solid silver wires for data only as my DAC has its own power supply. But the Aries doesn't see my DAC anymore. Any idea?

 

Frank

You must have the pinout wrong then (this assuming that your dac really doesn't use the 5Vdc on the BUS in any way).

W10 NUC i7 (Gen 10) > Roon (Audiolense FIR) > Motu UltraLite mk5 > (4) Hypex NCore NC502MP > JBL M2 Master Reference +4 subs

 

Watch my Podcast https://www.youtube.com/channel/UCXMw_bZWBMtRWNJQfTJ38kA/videos

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The PSU is just a standard one originally made for TFT monitors. The filtering has to be very good, because otherwise you will find fragments of the PSU operating on the screen in the picture.

Hello Matthias,

 

i cannot find linear PSU for TFT monitor on the web, do you have a link?

 

Hello JDOz,

 

After your last testing, do you keep thinking your modded 4Tb WD is still better than the combo listed above?

 

Also, i cannot find linear PSU for TFT monitor, do you have a link?

Sorry JDOz, my post #70 is wrong, i mixed answers from you and Matthias :( but it would be interesting to compare your solution and Matthias one:)

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Very interesting thread... I have 4 absorbers below the Aries (and 4 under its power supply) and now tried adding a record weight (350g) on top of the Aries. I have been listening for an hour now doing a/b comparison (albeit not blind), and in my system the impact on SQ is significant... Bass are firmer, soundstage is deeper, things just got into a better place. Keen to hear if others have similar experiences.

 

If of interest here is the link to the weight (I use their absorbers as well, great quality brand at the right price)

 

http://www.bfly-audio.de/en/produkte/produkte-plattenspieler-zubehoer.html

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Hello Aries owners,

 

I tried to build my own short USB DAC cable with 2 solid silver wires for data only as my DAC has its own power supply. But the Aries doesn't see my DAC anymore. Any idea?

 

Frank

 

I think you'll also need to connect the ground terminals with a 3rd wire. Some DACs (or source-DAC combos) don't need the ground connection but many/most do.

 

Some DACs need voltage only for the initial handshake. I suspect the Aries (or Aries-Vega combo I use) needs the ground connection for the handshake but perhaps not thereafter.

 

My findings using Aries-Vega combo:

Cardas USB cable with 5V active terminal taped over---works

Also tape over ground terminal---no connection

Use Elijah split cable (has ground connection on both data and power legs) with only data leg connected---works

Use LH Lightspeed split cable (unknown ground connection)...

-connect only data leg to Aries---DAC not found

-connect data leg to Aries USB out and power leg to Aries USB in---DAC found. Can then disconnect power leg and DAC connection is not lost.

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