Jump to content
IGNORED

Group Buy for full ATX Linear PSU from Teradak


Ben-M

Recommended Posts

Okay, I'm in.

 

One 210. I'll PM you my details.

 

I'm planning on using the following for a PC so if anyone thinks I've chosen the wrong PSU please shout. It'll be left on 24/7.

 

i5 4460T or other 35W processor

Asus H97M-E

One SSD

Passive Cooling

Max RAM (load into RAM for playback)

Haven't decided on OS yet. If I plug in a special USB card it will be externally powered, although I might conceivably get a Lynx PCI-E card to output AES/EBU instead.

Will be used for both audio and video playback (eg. 1080p music videos from Youtube).

No disc drive.

Link to comment
I got it in Hong Kong. Taobao also has it but the price is slightly higher than in the US/UK.

 

Strange that the FC10 Pro is limited to the Chinese market. I originally just ordered the non-Pro FC10 and the local dealer get me the FC10 Pro instead, saying it's replaced the FC10.

 

I'm jealous! I've decided to get the NoFan CS60 case instead. It can sit at the side of the rack, which means it won't take up a shelf, and it's a quarter of the price too so I'm not too unhappy.

Link to comment
Hi, I've reread the entire thread but I didn't find the externale measure of the linear psu.

Am I blind? yes

Could you help me?

I'd like to place the teradak psu next to my Cooler Master Elite 130 case on the same shelf of my rack.

 

right here :-P

Teradak finally got back to me about the size, so here it is.

 

All ATX PSUs fit into a case of these measurements:

320mm(W) x 100mm(H) x 311mm(L)

weight ~12kg

Link to comment
Okay, I'm in.

 

One 210. I'll PM you my details.

 

I'm planning on using the following for a PC so if anyone thinks I've chosen the wrong PSU please shout. It'll be left on 24/7.

 

i5 4460T or other 35W processor

Asus H97M-E

One SSD

Passive Cooling

Max RAM (load into RAM for playback)

Haven't decided on OS yet. If I plug in a special USB card it will be externally powered, although I might conceivably get a Lynx PCI-E card to output AES/EBU instead.

Will be used for both audio and video playback (eg. 1080p music videos from Youtube).

No disc drive.

got it :-)

Link to comment

I intend to build an audio PC - which I may use for video as well, so am not yet sure which case to use. I suppose ordering the big back-plate is the safest option.

 

Other details are:

(i) see PM to follow

(ii) ATX 210

(iii) 1ea

(iv) 230v

(v) (B) 2 x SATA + 1 x MOLEX

(vi) yes, I'm aware of the additional shipping costs

(vii) big size back-plate

 

Thanks for putting your effort into this group buy.

Link to comment

I just saw the following (old) press release over on SPCR:

 

"Seasonic announced that its power supplies are ready for Intel Haswell processors. A key requirement for Haswell-Shark Bay is the power supply's ability to maintain a minimum current load of 0.05 Amps on the 12V rail for the CPU."

 

I haven't bought my CPU yet but was planning on getting a Haswell. Can you please check to see if the Teradak is compatible? I'm sure it is but the Haswells are pricey, so I don't want to get something that doesn't work.

 

Thanks.

Link to comment

Hello, I just found out about this group buy yesterday and am very interested in getting in for this first round purchase today. However, I have a very limited understanding of electricity/power issues. I hoping someone can give me advice on this yet today (prior to the closing of first group buy opportunity). Thanks for any advice/assistance any experienced user can provide.

 

My setup: I’m running a CAPS Zuma standard setup into a Meitner MA-1 DAC. I will be purchasing a JCAT USB card and will need a power source for that (…which is one of the primary reasons I’m jumping into the group buy). I would want the molex hookup on the ATX ready to plug right into the JCAT USB card. Having the ATX I would like it to power the motherboard and SSD as well, but I’m not sure exactly how that hook-up works.

 

So given my setup and goals for the ATX, I would be ordering the ATX 275. However, I really need assistance on the choices beyond that:

 

Option: voltage requirement

Question: I believe the CAPS Zuma description is auto-switching power 110v/220v. Therefore, which do I choose for the ATX (120v or 230v)?

 

Option: (A) 3 x SATA or (B) 2 x SATA + 1 x MOLEX, from the regulators

Question: I don’t know exactly what SATA is. I’m guessing I’d want option B so I have a 5V Molex connector to the JCAT USB Card? What does SATA hook up to on a CAPS Zuma? What connects to the mother board and SSD? I’m assuming I would not want to mess with trying to power the Meitner DAC in any way from the ATX.

 

Option: State whether you want the small size or big size back-plate for mounting the DIN connector to your

Question: I’m not sure what difference the small or big size makes in the setup? Also, would I need to drill a hole in the top of the CAPS Zuma to bring in the power cabling? Or could I just leave an opening in the back (where the USB Card sits) to bring in the cable?

 

I REALLY want to get in on this first group buy (…so I can buy the USB JCAT and power it). Thanks in advance to anyone who can help guide me in placing the correct order. I’m really in need of guidance from the experts!

 

Thanks!

Mark (Username ThomasKott)

Link to comment

Mark

The sata powers the SSD in a Zuma. Remember the JCAT only needs the 5v molex if your dac etc. needs the usb power and it can also be powered externally via a 5.5/2.1 barrel jack so you could use a separate PSU altogether if you wanted to - if your dac does need it. The voltage you require depends on your location i.e. UK 240v.

 

 

 

 

 

 

Link to comment

Hi Mark,

 

110v/220v (hopefully 230v or 240v for those of us in the UK) is the mains voltage for your house. The Teradak plugs into the wall like any other piece of equipment with a mains lead. Whatever your voltage is (depends on your country) is all that question refers to.

 

Get the 2 SATA and 1 Molex option. It's easy to get a Molex to SATA adaptor cable so you're covered either way then. The SATA cables connect to your SSDs and possibly your optical drive if you have one.

 

The Teradak replaces the switching PSU (external power brick) you have now and the DC-DC converter inside the unit. In essence I'm assuming you have a small laptop style power brick that ends in a small round plug. That will connect to the back of your Zuma and inside leading off from that round socket a cable will lead to a small circuit board at right angles to everything else. That circuit board is plugged into a long plastic rectangle containing 24 small sockets. The Teradak replaces all of that and plugs directly into those 24 small sockets. You won't need your laptop style brick any more, nor the vertical circuit board. The Teradak will also have a 12v cable running off it that connects to a socket (4 or 8 pin) beside your CPU, and separate 5v cables lead off and end with SATA or Molex plugs (as discussed above).

 

But here's the rub: the Zuma case was not designed to accommodate a standard ATX supply, which is a big bulky box that usually sits inside the chassis. Instead it uses that small round socket on the back which you plug the laptop brick into. The DC cable coming out of the Teradak has to get inside your case, and the socket is too small. The standard ATX backplate is about 6 inches by 3.5 inches in size, which is huge compared to the Zuma. Teradak have a smaller option too, but that will still be much too large. The purpose of that backplate is like the socket in the back of the Zuma - it provides a place to plug the external PSU into whilst keeping the internal power cables secure. Unfortunately there's nowhere for you to attach it, so you'll have it hanging loose.

 

The only option I can think of is to take the top off the Zuma and feed the DC cable right through to the sockets, taking care not to put any strain on it. It will look butt ugly, but it will work. If you're doing that you might want to request a DC cable with no backplate at all. The cable will still be in two parts, you just don't attach it to anything at the join.

 

If you're good at DIY you could always order the small backplate and then modify both the Zuma and the backplate to get them to fit, but that's beyond my metalwork skills so I'm only guessing it would work. Alternatively you could cut a suitable size hole in the top cover and fit the backplate to it. That would have a positively steampunk vibe if you could get it done...

 

One final thing to check is that you have a standard Zuma with a separate power input on the case that leads to that vertical circuit board I mentioned. If the power socket is built directly into the motherboard and that's what you're connecting to now (in other words there is no 24 socket plastic rectangle to connect to) then the Teradak won't work at all unless you replace the motherboard.

Link to comment

Nice detailed answer from Mr Sprout there Mark, just to add if it is a Zuma it will have a dh77eb motherboard which has an atx socket, if it is one of the other 3 CAPS V3 designs it won't and i agree with him that the Zuma case is far from ideal for this type of PSU.

 

 

 

 

 

 

Link to comment

Mr Sprout, thanks for the detailed response. I looked inside my CAPS Zuma and there is a "PicoPSU" that appears to plug into the a socket (as you described). So I think that seems ok. I tried to load pictures of it but was able to add pictures to this post (maybe due to size of the photo). Regarding the cabling coming in from the ATX to the Zuma. The opening at the back of the Zuma case is 3/4' wide. So still probably too small for the ATX cable to come into. I'd need to find a metal worker to cut the opening larger. Thanks, Mark

Link to comment

Tier 1 is CLOSED

 

Thanks a lot, guys. I'll now compile all the info, make it readable and unmistakeable, and forward it to Teradak for processing.

 

Michael will get back to me with final shipping quotes and then I'll let you guys know the totals you need to pay.

 

And I'll post Teradak's PayPal info here too.

Link to comment
Tier 1 is CLOSED

 

Thanks a lot, guys. I'll now compile all the info, make it readable and unmistakeable, and forward it to Teradak for processing.

 

Michael will get back to me with final shipping quotes and then I'll let you guys know the totals you need to pay.

 

And I'll post Teradak's PayPal info here too.

 

 

nt

fmak

Link to comment

Group Buyers List - Tier 1 closed - Final Tally (closed Oct. 25, 2014)

Ben-M - 2x 350 - ComputerAudiophile.com

Camel - 2x 350 - ComputerAudiophile.com

Shahed99 - 1x 275 - ComputerAudiophile.com

Shahed's friend - 1x 210, 1x 275 - ComputerAudiophile.com

Lowlands - 1x 275 - ComputerAudiophile.com

Elberoth - 2x 275 - ComputerAudiophile.com

_JL_ - 1x 350 - ComputerAudiophile.com

fmak - 1x 210 - ComputerAudiophile.com

Sligolad - 1x 210 - jplay.eu

Rainer Weber - 1x 350 - jplay.eu

Rurika - 2x 210 - ComputerAudiophile.com

mordo - 1x 350, 1x 210 - ComputerAudiophile.com

hei83 - 2x 275 - ComputerAudiophile.com

emaspac - 1x 210 - ComputerAudiophile.com

marcell - 1x 350 - ComputerAudiophile.com

Roman_V - 1x 210 - ComputerAudiophile.com

menace - 2x 210 - jplay.eu

willemvulpes - 1x 275 - headfi.org

twist222 - 1x 275 - ComputerAudiophile.com

Esb1954 - 1x 210 - ComputerAudiophile.com

prot - 1x 210 - ComputerAudiophile.com

lansing801 - 2x 350 - jplay.eu

Audiodigger - 2x 350 - ComputerAudiophile.com

drez - 1x 350 - ComputerAudiophile.com

MrSprout - 1x 210 - ComputerAudiophile.com

letterman - 2x 350 - ComputerAudiophile.com

givita_burl - 1x 275 - ComputerAudiophile.com

Vinyl - 1x 210, 1x 350 - jplay.eu

glenn968 - 1x 210, 1x 275 - ComputerAudiophile.com

Jiffi32 - 1x 275 - ComputerAudiophile.com

ThomasKott - 1x 210 - ComputerAudiophile.com

 

Total buyers, 31.

Total units, 44.

 

ATX 210 - 16

ATX 275 - 12

ATX 350 - 16

Link to comment
Hi Ben, I'm the friend of Mordo.

Mordo wants a 350w while I'd like a 275, do you remeber that Mordo has send you a second pm in which he said that I've changed from 210 to 275?

Thanks.

 

Haha, I was wondering what happened to you, grunter. So you're Mordo's friend; it's better that you guys ordered together, it'll save on shipping.

 

And yes, I remember the PM. I accidentally posted this message off an outdated list, but thanks for reminding me. I confirmed on the master list and the shipping one that I sent Michael, you units are correct.

 

PLEASE EVERYONE. Check this little list and make sure it's the right one.

Link to comment

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



×
×
  • Create New...