Group Buy for full ATX Linear PSU from Teradak

[mike98045]

I received mine last friday. It took a week from Teradak to their shipping agent and another week from somewhere near Hongkong to my door (europe). After all I was happy with the lead time.

 

I bought a 29 mil bi-metal hole saw from the tool shop to make the required 30 mil hole. The last mil was done with a polish stone for a smooth finish. It worked out perfect. It took me more efforts to get all the cables in the small Streacom FC8 chassis.

 

Cheers,

Paul

 

thank you Paul.

 

that is the most information I've got, as far as delivery time, in this whole process. very helpful to know so I can stop wondering.

 

knowing it's 2 weeks might be worse that hoping for sooner.

[sig8]

Question for those who are using this PS. i have one coming in:

 

When I connect the 24 pin connector to motherboard. How the switching will work.

 

I have a toggle switch on the case which is connected to the mobo, and then there is a switch on the power supply as well. Do I need to leave the switch on the power supply ON all the time and then just use switch on the PC for ON and OFF. Let me know. Thanks.

[sebna]

Question for those who are using this PS. i have one coming in:

 

When I connect the 24 pin connector to motherboard. How the switching will work.

 

I have a toggle switch on the case which is connected to the mobo, and then there is a switch on the power supply as well. Do I need to leave the switch on the power supply ON all the time and then just use switch on the PC for ON and OFF. Let me know. Thanks.

 

Yes you can leave the power switch on the PSU chassis all the time in the ON position and then you can power on and off your PC with usual power button on the PC case.

 

Cheers

[Marcell]

Hi Guys,

 

Have any of the owners experimented with aftermarket fuses for Teradak PSUs? If so what were your findings?

 

Cheers

 

 

 

Yes i have and it impacts greatly on my sound system. I also changed my fuses on my amps and DAC. I do recommend you to do so as well.

[sebna]

Yes i have and it impacts greatly on my sound system. I also changed my fuses on my amps and DAC. I do recommend you to do so as well.

 

I have started experimenting with fuses recently and first one I exchanged was in Teradak... it gives nice improvement. I tried SR Red. It changes the sound 80% in the direction I like and 20% which I would prefer not to touch in my system.

[Jiffi32]

I have started experimenting with fuses recently and first one I exchanged was in Teradak... it gives nice improvement. I tried SR Red. It changes the sound 80% in the direction I like and 20% which I would prefer not to touch in my system.

 

Where do you get these fuses from?

[Marcell]

After reading many review on fuses, i decided to installed SR Red fuses on my Teradak PSU, DAC and Amps. It gave a very nice/big improvement, but then i found it sounds rather harsh and bright. Sound stage is extremely large and overall presentation is too forward that it doesn't seems natural.

 

Then i started to read more on reviews and i finally installed HIFI Supreme fuse on my Teradak PSU while i still keeping SR Red fuses on both my DAC and Amps. It turns out a mixing solution is the best, other people on other thread found it the same like i did.

 

To put it in a very simple way, SR Red fuse is for "warm" sound system. HIFI Supreme fuse is for "normal to Bright" sound system. It maybe a much safer bet for people to try out HIFI Supreme fuse since it doesn't give such a "hyper" improvements.

 

I haven't tried other brands yet. Other people are also happy to settle with a brand like ISOclean and Furutech fuses. There is no definite answer here, you need to do trials and errors

 

To add more complex elements to your equation, you can always change the power inlet in your PSU, DAC and Amps. There are many different brands offering different kinds of metals like Gold and Rhodium. This also effect the way it sounds.

 

I changed mine to Furutech FI-03 Rhodium inlets. It doesn't require any soldering, cutting cable and can be easily switch back at any time. You just need to put extra precaution in connecting the cable correctly. It's only three cables, it's not a rocket science.

 

All of fuses and inlets are available in many online stores. You can also buy it from Ebay like i did.

[Ben-M]

So, I've finally gotten some time and I've tried to get my 2 C.A.P.S. v4-like PCs up and running, but I've hit the same snag on both PCs.

 

I connected everything and flipped the front switch on the PSU, then hit the power button on the case. The LEDs on the MOBO turn on, the 4 green LEDs in the Teradak PSU turn on, but then a few seconds later the 3.3v LED in the PSU goes out. I don't get any signal to the monitor the whole time either. Nothing happens after this. I've cycled it a few times, but always the same thing. On the second PC it sometimes cycles the 3.3v rail back on itself, but after about 3 loops it totally went out and the MOBO made a loud beeping sound.

 

I've only put together 2 PCs from scratch before, but I've overhauled and replaced parts in many. I have never run into this problem along the way and I couldn't find anything about it online. I'm really hoping someone here has an idea and might even have the same MOBO + CPU combo. I'll state my specs below, but for note I talked to another guy with a similar problem and in the end he said though the motherboard doesn't state 1066MHz ram on the website, it does in BIOS. And it also states low voltage, 1.35v only on the website, but easily boots with standard 1.5v. I also know the Xeon 1231-v3 has no integrated GPU, but it of course does have enough ability to boot and show the BIOS/setup screen if working correctly. So...

 

Any help/insight/advice would be greatly appreciated.

 

PC-1-

Mobo: Intel - S1200v3RPL mATX

CPU: Intel - Xeon E3 1231v3

Ram: Micron - 8GB 1066MHz ECC, unbuffered

HDD: Samsung - 850 Evo 128GB

PSU: Teradak - ATX-350

 

PC-2-

Mobo: Intel - S1200v3RPL mATX

CPU: Intel - Xeon E3 1231v3

Ram: Micron - 8GB 1066MHz ECC, unbuffered

HDD: PPA Studio - CF as SSD with 32GB CF card

PSU: Teradak - ATX-350

[kiskaprince]

Ben it was me you were talking to

To me looks like it is either ram or PSU

These mobo's are very finicky to power

I have try many PSU myself and I was getting same "symptoms"

Finally bought Intel PSU that this mobo support and booted no problem

Even have no problem using 1.55V ram which this mobo not suppose to support according to Intel

As you remember Intel even did not know what is the problem so they kept sending me 2 replacements for mobo that was no even faulty

 

So try different ram and put them in right slots or use different PSU more power

 

That is why I did not jump and buy Teradak yet cause I am afraid I will end up with problem you are having

 

As far as video out goes you dont need any video card or anything like that just hook VGA out from that mobo to VGA in on your monitor and if everything boot OK you will see bios etc

 

Keep Us and me posted

 

Thanks

[jabbr]

Do the PCs boot ok with a regular PSU?

[rurika]

Hi, Ben.

I also experienced the problem like you when I was changed ControlPC's cpu.

My problem was solved by update a new bios.

[Ben-M]

Ben it was me you were talking to

To me looks like it is either ram or PSU

These mobo's are very finicky to power

I have try many PSU myself and I was getting same "symptoms"

Finally bought Intel PSU that this mobo support and booted no problem

Even have no problem using 1.55V ram which this mobo not suppose to support according to Intel

As you remember Intel even did not know what is the problem so they kept sending me 2 replacements for mobo that was no even faulty

 

So try different ram and put them in right slots or use different PSU more power

 

That is why I did not jump and buy Teradak yet cause I am afraid I will end up with problem you are having

 

As far as video out goes you dont need any video card or anything like that just hook VGA out from that mobo to VGA in on your monitor and if everything boot OK you will see bios etc

 

Keep Us and me posted

 

Thanks

Hey JS, haha, yes I totally remember that it was you that I spoke about this with before. And I didn't forget your solution. I actually wanted to ask about it in here in case someone else had found a different solution to it. And unfortunately it's for the same reason that you mentioned above, in hopes that this PSU can actually function soundly with these boards.

 

Do the PCs boot ok with a regular PSU?

I don't have one on hand, but since you and JS are looking in the same place on this issue, I'll have to find a cheap one to check with.

 

Hi, Ben.

I also experienced the problem like you when I was changed ControlPC's cpu.

My problem was solved by update a new bios.

I hope this is a possibility, and maybe after getting a legit PSU, powering on the system and changing the ram profile and updating the BIOS the Teradak linear will work.

 

Thanks for the info so far, guys. But please keep the ideas rolling in. I'll try out whatever anyone can say. In the mean time I'm going to find a standard ATX SMPS to power it with and see if that does the trick. That'll take about 2 weeks though due to another business trip.

[manisandher]

Hi Ben, I've got a very similar issue to yours using my Teradak 275 (which I bought independently of the group buy and received about 6 months ago) to power my PC.

 

BUT... In my case, the PC powered by the Teradak had been working absolutely perfectly for 6 months or so, until about a week ago. What tends to happen now is that the 3.3v LED in the PSU will either go out during boot up, in which case the PC simply continues to cycle, or that the PC will indeed boot up and the 3.3v LED will then switch off at a random point once the PC is running normally. As I said, this has only just started to happen very recently, and I've had no such issues for the last 6 months or so, with the Teradak switched on constantly in this period. Very strange.

 

I still have my previous SMPS to hand and will certainly give this a go in the next couple of days. I'll let you know what I find...

 

Mani.

[_JL_]

I had a chance to compare the Teradak against 19V LPS + HDPlex 250W DC-ATX setups recently. The rest of the system is held constant and the DAC was isolated by an iFi iUSB 3.0 followed by a cascade of two REGENS.

 

In short, the full LPS solution (i.e., Teradak) is clearly better. The whole spectrum sounds cleaner, especially from mid-range to bass. The high freq is more extended and generally sounds sweeter.

 

I saw HDPLEX is going to release their own ATX-LPS soon which looks very promising as well. Good times for CAS enthusiasts.

[_TDK_]

The company have a group buying option for this PSU this month (Nov/2015). Any one interests in this full LPS for computer ATX solution can contact the company.

[sig8]

How does Teradak compares with HD Plex power supplies,I see HD Plex have a 300W ATX available now with few more options than Teradak, and little cheaper as well I think. Thanks.

[dminches]

Can someone explain how one removes the back panel on the Streacom FC10 to make it easier to drill the holes necessary to fit the Teradak PS connector?

[dminches]

The connector is 29.75mm in diameter. So if you make a hole 30-31mm in diameter you will be fine.

 

Is your hole larger? The case opening seems larger than the diameter of my 30mm bit.

[aps]

I'm considering replacing simple laptop brick driving a CAPS V4 variant in a Streamcom FC10 case with the Teradak ATX PSU. What, though, is the best backplate (SFX, Flex ATX or ATX)? How does one modify the case (pictures would be great)? And how does this all compare with, say, a good linear PSU into a PicoPSU?

[sebna]

I'm considering replacing simple laptop brick driving a CAPS V4 variant in a Streamcom FC10 case with the Teradak ATX PSU. What, though, is the best backplate (SFX, Flex ATX or ATX)? How does one modify the case (pictures would be great)? And how does this all compare with, say, a good linear PSU into a PicoPSU?

Just read last few posts... all answers to your questions are there.

 

Good luck

 

Sent from my HTC One using Tapatalk

[dminches]

I'm considering replacing simple laptop brick driving a CAPS V4 variant in a Streamcom FC10 case with the Teradak ATX PSU. What, though, is the best backplate (SFX, Flex ATX or ATX)? How does one modify the case (pictures would be great)?

 

Similar to others, I did not use the back plate that Teradak provided. I drilled a 30mm hole where Streacom back plate goes and then used the provided Teradak back plate as a template to drill the 4 holes needed to attached the power cord. I purchased 4 nuts to use with the screws provided by Teradak to attach the power cord to the back of the FC10. I removed the back of the FC10 to do all this. It is much harder to do all the work with the back attached, but it is possible to do it that way.

[dminches]

Has anyone experienced the Teradak turning off by itself causing the PC to reboot? Of course it could be the PC but it never happened with the Pico PSU.

[aps]

Just read last few posts... all answers to your questions are there.

 

Good luck

 

Sent from my HTC One using Tapatalk

 

Similar to others, I did not use the back plate that Teradak provided. I drilled a 30mm hole where Streacom back plate goes and then used the provided Teradak back plate as a template to drill the 4 holes needed to attached the power cord. I purchased 4 nuts to use with the screws provided by Teradak to attach the power cord to the back of the FC10. I removed the back of the FC10 to do all this. It is much harder to do all the work with the back attached, but it is possible to do it that way.

 

Thanks.

[dminches]

How does one modify the case (pictures would be great)?

 

I modified my second case today. Here are 2 photos.

 

 

[fralippo]

I'm planning to build a dedicated audio pc soon and I'm evaluating a Linear ATX PSU. Idea is to use a Asus motherboard, with intel i7 6700 and Nofan passive cooler, 8gb ram and a 120GB SSD. Do you think the Teradak 210 could be powerful enough?

 

Could someone comment about differences between PSUs build with toroidal transformers and r-cores? As far as I know toroidal should be avoided for audio... due to no air-gap and no allowance at all for eventual DC components from mains.

 

I noticed, from pictures of internals of these PSUs, that they use silicon diode bridges (35A/1kV). Do someone know if it's possible to get schottky diodes bridges instead? It'd surely be a improvement.

 

Last think, this thread is huge and I can't pass one day to read it all, do you think that sound quality improvement from SMPS to Linear is worth the requested price?

 

Thank you!