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Group Buy for full ATX Linear PSU from Teradak


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Pepsican:

 

Thank you for your response. You have clearly stated that R-core are cheaper, but as it turns out; Teradak is charging 10% more for their R-core versions. I wonder why. Thanks.

 

But their standard design does not include a toroidal. Also, the transformer is certainly not the only component that matters. For example, HD-Plex uses Rcore, but the upcoming power supply will be cheaper than Teradak's.

Synology DS214+ with MinimServer --> Ethernet --> Sonore mRendu / SOtM SMS-200 --> Chord Hugo --> Chord interconnects --> Naim NAP 200--> Chord speaker cable --> Focal Aria 948

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R-Core transformers are generally quite a bit more expensive than the same rated and readily available toroidal transformers. (check ebay for example) The less efficient dual bobbin types which have much less capacitance between Primary and Secondary windings are only available from a few suppliers. They are likely to be better for use with external linear PSUs for USB Audio because of this .

How a Digital Audio file sounds, or a Digital Video file looks, is governed to a large extent by the Power Supply area. All that Identical Checksums gives is the possibility of REGENERATING the file to close to that of the original file.

PROFILE UPDATED 28-06-2020

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Thank you guys.

 

I ordered a 350W/ATX with R-Core transformer from Teradak. I will not be able to do any A/B because all other LPS's I have are not ATX. Hopefully it will improve the SQ. I will surely be comparing it to other LPS's feeding a pico-psu.

 

Any thoughts on another Group-buy. I think you guys saved about 20% or so. I might buy one more.

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Thank you guys.

 

I ordered a 350W/ATX with R-Core transformer from Teradak. I will not be able to do any A/B because all other LPS's I have are not ATX. Hopefully it will improve the SQ. I will surely be comparing it to other LPS's feeding a pico-psu.

Awesome news! I'd really like to have one of each to compare. After I see how mine settle into my system, I may think about sending one of mine back for an R-core swap. I don't live too far from Teradak, well, compared to most people on CA. Then I could give it a test since I'd have identical units besides that. But that's down the road, behind many other things :'-(

 

Any thoughts on another Group-buy. I think you guys saved about 20% or so. I might buy one more.

Certainly not going to be another group but lead by this guy. The last one took a lot of coordinating and with a new job and now a baby on the way I don't have that luxury anymore. Someone else is more than welcome to try, though.

 

Besides that, I don't know what Teradak would think. This was a learning experience for them top and there were certainly some rough patches on both sides. I think if it did go down again it'd be for plain Jane units, no multi item and no customization. If it did go down at all.

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buying an ATX 275R and Michael Li from Teradak is asking me;

 

We default ship the standard ATX mounting platewith the PSU. If you want another size mounting plate, please mailus when you pay us.

I tried to find some sort of information about this but came up blank. I was going to just proceed and get the standard mounting plate but I figured I'd ask first to make sure.

 

honestly I don't even know what they are referring to.

 

can someone explain about this? do I need a different mounting plate?

 

TIA

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buying an ATX 275R and Michael Li from Teradak is asking me;

 

I tried to find some sort of information about this but came up blank. I was going to just proceed and get the standard mounting plate but I figured I'd ask first to make sure.

 

honestly I don't even know what they are referring to.

 

can someone explain about this? do I need a different mounting plate?

 

TIA

Hey Tai, that one fooled me when Michael asked me about it the first time too.

 

The deal is that this PSU is imagined to be used with a desktop PC, but what are you going to mount that umbilical to? So what Michael is asking you about is the umbilical mounting plate that fills the hole where the standard PSU goes in the PC, which in case of a normal desktop, is an ATX PSU. But if you had a small form factor PC it could be SFX, and if it were an HTPC is might be Flex-ATX.

 

See the following link to see what the form factors are and what you'll need. 99% if you've got a large desktop PC with a Micro-ATX, ATX, or E-ATX mobo, you'll be wanting the ATX style umbilical mounting plate. If not, use the measurements and pictures from the link to the SilverStone sight, figure it out, and let Michael know from there.

 

SilverStone Technology Co., Ltd.

 

Make sense? Check out some of the posted pictures and imagine how the outboard PSU delivers power to the PC and things would be needed to make that function normally. I think you'll get it.

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Ben,

 

many thanks for the detailed answer.

 

in my case the unit will sit next to a small form factor box, the Streacom FC10. I will have to figure out which plate will work for that one.

 

btw; my name is Mike and the TIA was for Thanks In Advance. :) I see how that was confusing.

 

again, thank you.

 

Mike

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Ben,

 

many thanks for the detailed answer.

 

in my case the unit will sit next to a small form factor box, the Streacom FC10. I will have to figure out which plate will work for that one.

 

btw; my name is Mike and the TIA was for Thanks In Advance. :) I see how that was confusing.

 

again, thank you.

 

Mike

With FC10 you will have to drill the hole for umbilical socket... I followed advice from Elb and did it with dremel high speed rotary tool and even tough I have held it for the very first time in my hands it came out perfect.

 

Took me half an hour as I was mostly getting accustomed with the tool and picking up the right type of drill bit for the job as I had choice of few.

 

Good luck

 

Sent from my HTC One using Tapatalk

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With FC10 you will have to drill the hole for umbilical socket... I followed advice from Elb and did it with dremel high speed rotary tool and even tough I have held it for the very first time in my hands it came out perfect.

 

Took me half an hour as I was mostly getting accustomed with the tool and picking up the right type of drill bit for the job as I had choice of few.

 

Good luck

 

Sent from my HTC One using Tapatalk

 

thank you sebna.

 

that saves me lots of time trying to figure that out.

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You welcome.

 

If you are looking for more details few pages back in this thread there is photo relation of Elb from his initial job, which I have found useful.

 

Sent from my HTC One using Tapatalk

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Ben,

 

many thanks for the detailed answer.

 

in my case the unit will sit next to a small form factor box, the 'ATX size' the Streacom FC10. so the standard plate should work.

 

btw; my name is Mike and the TIA was for Thanks In Advance. :) I see how that was confusing.

 

again, thank you.

 

Mike

 

Nice to hear back from you so quickly, Tia. Haha, I can't believe I missed that one. Too long in the none English speaking world... Mike it is.

 

So, I've also got Streacom FC10s and unless you've got the FC10 Pro (which takes a spec compliant Flex ATX plate), then you're going to have to bust out the Dremel or take it to a machine shop. The IEC inlet on the FC10 is not meant to fit the big nest of cables/DIN connector that will be inside your chassis, but the space is big enough to do it. @Elberoth also has the same chassis and he just widened the IEC inlet out with a Dremel, tapped some new screw holes, and fastened his nest/DIN connector. Looked factory finished when he was done. It's posted in here, but I have zero idea where. I've got the same plan, but work keeps keeping me away from straightening out my audio gear :-(

 

Anyway, unless you've got the FC10 Pro, and only like one person on here does because it was a Chinese only model and you have to contact a Chinese seller to get it, then you've got the normal FC10 and will need to bore out your IEC inlet. Just order the standard ATX plate for possible future re-purposing, at least that's what most buyers did.

 

*edit, and that's what happens when you get a call in the middle of a CA reply. Some terrible, forumite swoops in and answers the question for you... Thanks Seb :-) myanswerismoredeatiledsotakethat

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You welcome.

 

If you are looking for more details few pages back in this thread there is photo relation of Elb from his initial job, which I have found useful.

 

Sent from my HTC One using Tapatalk

 

yes; I did find the info with pictures from Elb about that. I hope I can manage not to hack it up too badly. not used a Dremel before. again thank you.

 

Nice to hear back from you so quickly, Tia. Haha, I can't believe I missed that one. Too long in the none English speaking world... Mike it is.

 

So, I've also got Streacom FC10s and unless you've got the FC10 Pro (which takes a spec compliant Flex ATX plate), then you're going to have to bust out the Dremel or take it to a machine shop. The IEC inlet on the FC10 is not meant to fit the big nest of cables/DIN connector that will be inside your chassis, but the space is big enough to do it. @Elberoth also has the same chassis and he just widened the IEC inlet out with a Dremel, tapped some new screw holes, and fastened his nest/DIN connector. Looked factory finished when he was done. It's posted in here, but I have zero idea where. I've got the same plan, but work keeps keeping me away from straightening out my audio gear :-(

 

Anyway, unless you've got the FC10 Pro, and only like one person on here does because it was a Chinese only model and you have to contact a Chinese seller to get it, then you've got the normal FC10 and will need to bore out your IEC inlet. Just order the standard ATX plate for possible future re-purposing, at least that's what most buyers did.

 

*edit, and that's what happens when you get a call in the middle of a CA reply. Some terrible, forumite swoops in and answers the question for you... Thanks Seb :-) myanswerismoredeatiledsotakethat

 

and thank you too, Ben, for the details. I've ordered and paid for the FC10 from the UK but it's not yet shipped. hopefully they will ship it.

 

as a total newbie here it is great being so cared for.

 

mike

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Mike, I was using the Dremel the first time when I did it (I had to go to the hardware store to get one) and it came out perfect.

 

It is not that difficoult at all. Just get the standard ATX backplate to have a template.

Adam

 

PC: Hot rodded CAPS v4 Pipeline: Teradak ATX linear PSU, Jcat Femto USB card, UpTone Audio JS-2 + 2x LPS-1.2 combo, Jcat SSD battery PSU, Jcat SATA cable, TotalDAC D1 USB cable, SOtM sMS-200, W4S Recovery USB, Jcat USB Isolator, Win 2012, AO v2.10

Digital: Lampizator Pacific DAC

Amp: Dan D'Agostino Momentum Stereo

Speakers: Magcio M3

Cables: AudioQuest WEL Signature IC / Shunyata Anaconda Z-Tron SC

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Mike, I was using the Dremel the first time when I did it (I had to go to the hardware store to get one) and it came out perfect.

 

It is not that difficoult at all. Just get the standard ATX backplate to have a template.

 

thanks Adam, I can likely manage it one way or another. only sometimes when I 'go commando' on stuff it ends up looking like it. I can maybe talk my techie son into doing it as his track record on crafting stuff is better than mine.

 

your pictures were very helpful.

 

mike

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thanks Adam, I can likely manage it one way or another. only sometimes when I 'go commando' on stuff it ends up looking like it. I can maybe talk my techie son into doing it as his track record on crafting stuff is better than mine.

 

your pictures were very helpful.

 

mike

 

Mike: See attached drawing with connector plate dimensions. I have a 350ATX on order myself.

 

smallATX21 (2).pdf

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Mike,

 

When I think about this, if you would be going the route of Dremel, my word of advice would be to remove the back plate (wall) from the case for drilling and to start (and finish) drilling on the inner side of the back plate (so the one which will be hidden when you put the case back together after you are finished with drilling). That is because if the drill will jump you will not make a mess from mat finish on the visible side ;)

 

Cheers,

seb

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Mike,

 

When I think about this, if you would be going the route of Dremel, my word of advice would be to remove the back plate (wall) from the case for drilling and to start (and finish) drilling on the inner side of the back plate (so the one which will be hidden when you put the case back together after you are finished with drilling). That is because if the drill will jump you will not make a mess from mat finish on the visible side ;)

 

Cheers,

seb

 

thanks again seb. any other advice please keep it coming. the odds increase for success on my end. :)

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Hi Elberoth,

 

This is OT but I'd really appreciate your help. I think you mentioned that you built a Pipeline server with a Xeon E3-1240L V3 CPU. Is this correct? I put together a Pipeline server with this CPU hoping to get it up and running before switching the PSU to something better. and I'm getting a red LE6 LED in the top left corner. I replaced the PSU with a known good PSU and it still shows red. Can you please confirm that this CPU is compatible? Everything else is from Chris's list.

 

Thank you.

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Hi Elberoth,

 

This is OT but I'd really appreciate your help. I think you mentioned that you built a Pipeline server with a Xeon E3-1240L V3 CPU. Is this correct? I put together a Pipeline server with this CPU hoping to get it up and running before switching the PSU to something better. and I'm getting a red LE6 LED in the top left corner. I replaced the PSU with a known good PSU and it still shows red. Can you please confirm that this CPU is compatible? Everything else is from Chris's list.

 

Thank you.

 

Yes, I already have built two Pipeline servers with this CPU, and also one with 1230.

 

There is a separate 'Pipeline problem' thread I started. I also had problems putting my server together.

Adam

 

PC: Hot rodded CAPS v4 Pipeline: Teradak ATX linear PSU, Jcat Femto USB card, UpTone Audio JS-2 + 2x LPS-1.2 combo, Jcat SSD battery PSU, Jcat SATA cable, TotalDAC D1 USB cable, SOtM sMS-200, W4S Recovery USB, Jcat USB Isolator, Win 2012, AO v2.10

Digital: Lampizator Pacific DAC

Amp: Dan D'Agostino Momentum Stereo

Speakers: Magcio M3

Cables: AudioQuest WEL Signature IC / Shunyata Anaconda Z-Tron SC

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  • 2 weeks later...
Is it flying your way now or are you still in the dark?

 

after 2-3 weeks of back and forth it apparently is flying to their shipper, whomever that might be, to then be shipped to me in some mysterious way. they cannot tell me any sort of ETA. if i'm lucky i'll get a tracking number soon.

 

I've had all the parts for my CAPS v4 for 10 days waiting on this, and I have no real idea when i'll get it.

 

i'm ok with waiting for stuff when communications are reasonable. but waiting with zero feeling for what is happening is just unacceptable in this day and age. and every step of the way has been the same with these guys.

 

a cluster.

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after 2-3 weeks of back and forth it apparently is flying to their shipper, whomever that might be, to then be shipped to me in some mysterious way. they cannot tell me any sort of ETA. if i'm lucky i'll get a tracking number soon.

 

I've had all the parts for my CAPS v4 for 10 days waiting on this, and I have no real idea when i'll get it.

 

i'm ok with waiting for stuff when communications are reasonable. but waiting with zero feeling for what is happening is just unacceptable in this day and age. and every step of the way has been the same with these guys.

 

a cluster.

 

I received mine last friday. It took a week from Teradak to their shipping agent and another week from somewhere near Hongkong to my door (europe). After all I was happy with the lead time.

 

I bought a 29 mil bi-metal hole saw from the tool shop to make the required 30 mil hole. The last mil was done with a polish stone for a smooth finish. It worked out perfect. It took me more efforts to get all the cables in the small Streacom FC8 chassis.

 

Cheers,

Paul

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