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Ben-M

Group Buy for full ATX Linear PSU from Teradak

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Good news: got a tracking # from PayPal today.

 

Glad to hear that you've got your tracking no. still waiting for mine.

Mordo, have you had any news yet


customer server+AudiophileOptimizer >>UltraRendu (SR4) >> Lush(JSSG360) >>> IsoRegen(SR4) >>> Lush^2 >>> blu2 >>Blaxius^2D >> Dave > HD800(SDRmod)

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Glad to hear that you've got your tracking no. still waiting for mine.

Mordo, have you had any news yet

 

I've emailed Teradak with all of your questions and I'm waiting on them to get back to me. When I find out Ill let you guys know and post the info in here for all to see. Sharing is caring.

 

I understand that there are things on the line, but Teradak has been pretty great on all accounts in the Group Buy, especially communication, so I'm sure they'll get back to me with everything. I'll let you guys know when I get the answers.

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My and Mordo PSU have arrived. They have the correct power (275 and 350), so there was a misunderstanding with DHL about the power.

Tomorrow I'll pur it on.

Thanks Ben.

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My 2nd unit still haven't ship yet (told from Michael). He said now the shipping companies are on leave and they will ship mine when the shipping companies return. I think it should be on Wednesday 25th (from Fedex holiday schedule).

 

Look like I will be the last person to get the PSU from Tier 1.

Well ... I have to endure it for another two weeks.

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Hi Mark,

 

> One fairly minor issue with my 275W LPS. The bolt coming through the bottom of the case that holds down the toroidal transformer was loose when it arrived. I did it up a turn or 2 by hand but would like to nip it up with a socket. I does not need to be too tight but better than finger tight would be good. However before I do this I would like to take the top cover off, make sure the transformer has not turned and hold it by hand to ensure it does not rotate whilst I nip up the bolt. All easy to do but there is a sticker over one of the cover screws advising that the warranty is void if removed.

 

I attached a photo of the inside of my unit showing the nut on the toroid. If yours are the same then it looks like you can tighten the bolt w/o holding the nut at the same time.

 

IMG_1577.jpg

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Is a picoPSU DC-DC adapter plus a 12V DC linear power supply from Teradak a good option to power a mini-ITX computer? Or better to feed the whole PC with the ATX version, meaning that the picoPSU DC-DC to adapter is noisy?

Thanks.


1. Sonore ultraRendu - Uptone ISO Regen - Calyx Femto - Wyred 4 Sound STP-SE stage 2 - Apollon NC800 SL PRO - Thiel CS3.7
2. JRiver - Burson Conductor V2+ - Audeze LCD-XC - Calyx Femti - Monitor Audio PL100
3. JRiver - SMSL iDEA - 1More Triple Driver IEM

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Better to use linear ATX PSU.

 

picoPSU adds considerable amount of switching noise, so to some extent, negates the use of linear PSU that is powering it.


Adam

 

PC: Hot rodded CAPS v4 Pipeline: Teradak ATX linear PSU, Jcat Femto USB card, UpTone Audio JS-2 + 2x LPS-1.2 combo, Jcat SSD battery PSU, Jcat SATA cable, TotalDAC D1 USB cable, SOtM sMS-200, W4S Recovery USB, Jcat USB Isolator, Win 2012, AO v2.10

Digital: Lampizator Pacific DAC

Amp: Dan D'Agostino Momentum Stereo

Speakers: Magcio M3

Cables: AudioQuest WEL Signature IC / Shunyata Anaconda Z-Tron SC

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Ben,

 

One fairly minor issue with my 275W LPS. The bolt coming through the bottom of the case that holds down the toroidal transformer was loose when it arrived. I did it up a turn or 2 by hand but would like to nip it up with a socket. I does not need to be too tight but better than finger tight would be good. However before I do this I would like to take the top cover off, make sure the transformer has not turned and hold it by hand to ensure it does not rotate whilst I nip up the bolt. All easy to do but there is a sticker over one of the cover screws advising that the warranty is void if removed.

 

I am sure Teradak don't want the whole unit shipped back to China just to nip up the bolt. Whilst I could just do up the bolt from the outside I do not like doing up bolts without holding what is effectively the nut. Whilst the transformer can only rotate so far before the wire leads will stop it I would rather not risk putting any strain on the transformer leads.

 

In the interim

Regards to All

 

Mark

 

Hey Mark,

 

I've emailed Teradak about your issue and they're going to get back to me. My PSU has the same nut as _JL_'s though, so you "should" be fine in tightening it as is. Personally I'd hold off and just wait for their reply.

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My and Mordo PSU have arrived. They have the correct power (275 and 350), so there was a misunderstanding with DHL about the power.

Tomorrow I'll pur it on.

Thanks Ben.

 

Man, it sucks being right all the time :-P Hahaha, just kidding.

 

I've been in close contact with Teradak for about 4-5 months now and though there have been some issues I really have to commend them for their efforts. If there are any screw ups with your customs documents it was the fault of the various couriers, just as it was here.

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Hi Ben ,

 

You can check what with my order , I not received the tracking number .

 

Thank you .

 

Your unit has already been shipped, Roman. No need to worry.

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Shipping Update:

 

Good news, guys, all but 2 units made it out before Chinese New Year. The 2 units that didn't make it out yesterday were not able to be picked up by the courier, but will be shipped out personally via Michael on Feb. 27th when the courier re-opens. I have contacted the 2 buyers, but just for comfort and not to leave you all wondering if that PM didn't make it through and it's actually you that won't be receiving it, the 2 Buyers are:

 

Buyer ID# 10 - x1 unit

Buyer ID# 11 - x1 unit

 

 

 

Secondly, about tracking numbers and notifications.

 

Teradak told me that in the MAD PANIC crap shoot that is called "just before Chinese New Year" all the shipping companies are renowned for not getting tracking numbers into computers on time. Then even if company XYZ gets it in on time, company ABC that takes over shipment isn't open at the same time and doesn't update the hand over in the system. So although your package is being scanned and tracked as it moves along its happy way, you aren't getting any updates.

 

So, all units, besides the 2 that I mentioned, have been shipped out and are on the way to you. Give it a little time, don't worry, and out of no where you'll receive it.

 

 

 

LET ME KNOW

Now that I know EVERYTHING has shipped TELL ME WHEN YOU GET YOURS. I'm keeping a log of all this to make sure everyone gets their shit on time and whatnot. That list only works if I know you've gotten yours. Thanks :-)

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Ben,

 

One fairly minor issue with my 275W LPS. The bolt coming through the bottom of the case that holds down the toroidal transformer was loose when it arrived. I did it up a turn or 2 by hand but would like to nip it up with a socket. I does not need to be too tight but better than finger tight would be good. However before I do this I would like to take the top cover off, make sure the transformer has not turned and hold it by hand to ensure it does not rotate whilst I nip up the bolt. All easy to do but there is a sticker over one of the cover screws advising that the warranty is void if removed.

 

I am sure Teradak don't want the whole unit shipped back to China just to nip up the bolt. Whilst I could just do up the bolt from the outside I do not like doing up bolts without holding what is effectively the nut. Whilst the transformer can only rotate so far before the wire leads will stop it I would rather not risk putting any strain on the transformer leads.

 

Mark

 

So Mark, here's the official word from Teradak.

 

Warranty Info:

 

Option A: (recommended)

Tighten it from outside, the retaining nut will hold it.

 

 

Option B: (possible, if you REALLY want to)

1. First, take pictures of all 6 sides outside before you open it.

2. Upon opening it take some nice pictures of the inside before you do ANYTHING. They need to be well lit and clear.

3. Then do whatever it is that you wanted to do.

4. Take some more nice pictures when you're finished. Again, well lit and clear.

5. Close the unit back up.

6. Sign and date a new piece of paper-tape and stick it anywhere along the back panel, just not over the first one.

7. Take a final set of 6 pictures of the closed unit; make sure the back one with the new "seal" is clearly showing the old and new "seals", their dates, and signatures.

 

= The warranty will then be based on these pictures.

 

 

Since you're doing basically nothing at all, but would surely appreciate the peace of mind, I guess you'll be going with Option B? As long as you get the pictures out of the way and then save them where they'll never be deleted, it all sounds pretty straight forward. It's what I'd do as well. In fact, it's what I've already done with my units :-)

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I see mine has gone from Lantau Island in Hong Kong to Guangzhou in China now, which I hope is going in the right direction. I ask because it has a note saying that it was received after the FedEx cut-off, even though it's been sat at the FedEx facility in HK for a week.

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Thanks Ben,

 

Yes I like Option B. It is such a minor bit of work but if it was something I was building I would always hold the nut whilst doing up the bolt. Particularly when it takes so little extra time to undo the 6 cover screws and do it properly. And as you mentioned it does give a little extra peace of mind when you know all is right. There is a warranty on the power supply to be considered but there is also the fact that it is plugged into to 240V mains supply of my house. It will be good to know all is right.

 

Hope you get a break for Chinese New Year and enjoy the holiday.

 

Regards

Mark

 

 

So Mark, here's the official word from Teradak.

 

Warranty Info:

 

Option A: (recommended)

Tighten it from outside, the retaining nut will hold it.

 

 

Option B: (possible, if you REALLY want to)

1. First, take pictures of all 6 sides outside before you open it.

2. Upon opening it take some nice pictures of the inside before you do ANYTHING. They need to be well lit and clear.

3. Then do whatever it is that you wanted to do.

4. Take some more nice pictures when you're finished. Again, well lit and clear.

5. Close the unit back up.

6. Sign and date a new piece of paper-tape and stick it anywhere along the back panel, just not over the first one.

7. Take a final set of 6 pictures of the closed unit; make sure the back one with the new "seal" is clearly showing the old and new "seals", their dates, and signatures.

 

= The warranty will then be based on these pictures.

 

 

Since you're doing basically nothing at all, but would surely appreciate the peace of mind, I guess you'll be going with Option B? As long as you get the pictures out of the way and then save them where they'll never be deleted, it all sounds pretty straight forward. It's what I'd do as well. In fact, it's what I've already done with my units :-)

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@Ben,

 

Thanks for the info on the mad panic crap shoot / Chinese new year. It explains why I recieved a shipping notofication 11 feb, but my PSU (on paper) has never left HK and there is no planned arrival date... We'll see...


Bits to analog: HP Pro Server [Win10Pro, software raid; Roon Core] -> Metrum Ambre -> BADA [series1]

Analog to speaks: ARC Ref3 -> ARC DS450M's -> Dynaudio C1 Sig's + 2 REL G2's

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[ATTACH=CONFIG]17003[/ATTACH]

 

Do I see 4 (!) LEDs? Are these part of the ' mod' ?

In that case, what rail is using the 4th LED? I assume the 12v, 5v and 3.3v are coming from the reg-boards on the side...


Bits to analog: HP Pro Server [Win10Pro, software raid; Roon Core] -> Metrum Ambre -> BADA [series1]

Analog to speaks: ARC Ref3 -> ARC DS450M's -> Dynaudio C1 Sig's + 2 REL G2's

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I haven't hooked up my ATX 210 to my CAPS yet (...want to make sure I'm connecting it correctly). However, I did turn on the ATX to make sure it turned on ok. However, when turned on I didn't see any green LED glow. Therefore, I took the top off with it turned on to see if the LED just couldn't be seen with the top on. Still no LED light. Is this a problem? Does it need to be plugged into the CAPS for the LED to glow? Or, do I need to do something with the fuses that were packed separately in the shipping box? Attached is a picture of the ATX plugged into an electric outlet and power switch on. There's no green LED lights.

 

ATX No LED.JPG

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Do I see 4 (!) LEDs? Are these part of the ' mod' ?

In that case, what rail is using the 4th LED? I assume the 12v, 5v and 3.3v are coming from the reg-boards on the side...

 

There are 3 green LEDs. Could be the reflection from the LED?

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I haven't hooked up my ATX 210 to my CAPS yet (...want to make sure I'm connecting it correctly). However, I did turn on the ATX to make sure it turned on ok. However, when turned on I didn't see any green LED glow.

 

This is normal. Unlike a simple LPS this ATX supply conforms to the ATX handsake standard with the PC motherboard so you need to press the power button for the motherboard to really switch it on. Similarly if you shutdown your OS the ATX supply will shutdown as well, save for the 5VSB rail.

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Sorry for the delay but I was a bit 'busy lately.

arrived at my destination ATX-350 ..... what about .... is aesthetically impressive ... but mostly it works optimally, improving even more the excellent work they already did the pico psu.

I wanted to ask a question: among the various connectors (various colors) There are three red; one is the 20-pin, another is the 4-pin / serving for the mobo + 20 4 / and the third is a 6-pin ... where it goes?

Thanks Ben.M and thanks to the great work done for Teradek

greetings

Lorenzo

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