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Ben-M

Group Buy for full ATX Linear PSU from Teradak

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Hi Ben,

 

 

I received mine today, that is ATX-350. I haven't got time to fire it up, probably this weekend. But i did check things around and found a strange thing. Two fuses that were installed in fuse box are 8A and while i got another spare fuse wrapped together with back-plate which is 3A.

 

Please correct me if i am wrong, but ATX-350 should consume max 500 Watts according to your spec sheet and if divided by 220V (my country's electric) that should be 2.3A approximately. 8A is obviously too much, even 3A is over the line.

 

Even if i use 110V as an input, that would be 4.5A fuse. I don't know why they gave me two 8A and one 3A. I could buy another fuse, they are only few dollars, no worries about that. But i do want to know which is the correct fuse for this power supply? Can you confirm back to Teradak about this?

 

To other people, please check your fuse before using it!!!

 

The 3A fuse is for the separate +5VSB rail, since we've asked to use it for more than it's supposed to be used for it now needs protection.

 

Then the 8A fuse is for the entire PSU.

 

I don't know about fuses or why it's 8A, which I will ask them about, but that's the deal as to why there's 2 differently rated ones.

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The 3A fuse is for the separate +5VSB rail, since we've asked to use it for more than it's supposed to be used for it now needs protection.

 

Then the 8A fuse is for the entire PSU.

 

I don't know about fuses or why it's 8A, which I will ask them about, but that's the deal as to why there's 2 differently rated ones.

 

 

I got this from searching via google. It seems that Teradak ATX-350 would required 3A fuse for 220V-240V or 6A fuse for 110V input. I am wondering if that they miss-read between 8A and 3A. The font they use on the label of the fuse makes number 8 and 3 pretty damn similar, i am not joking you.

 

Let us hear what Teradak says about this....

 

 

Calculate Fuse Rating

 

 

[h=2]How To Calculate The Fuse Rating[/h]Using the guideline that the fuse is rated at 125% of the normal operating current.

Power (Watts) = Current (Amps) x Voltage (Volts)

Therefore:

Current = Power/Voltage

Therefore:

Fuse rating = (Power/Voltage) x 125%

OR, put another way:

Fuse rating = (Power/Voltage) x 1.25

OR, put another way:

Fuse rating = (watts/volts) x 1.25

 

  • Note the power of the appliance – usually in the appliance manual,
  • Note the voltage (240 volts in the UK).
  • Use the next highest fuse rating after the calculation.
    • Say the calculated fuse rating is 2.2679 amps, use a 3 amp fuse.
    • Say the calculated fuse rating is 4.9431 amps, use a 5 amp fuse.
    • Say the calculated fuse rating is 8.9032 amps, use a 13 amp fuse.
    • Say the calculated fuse rating is 10.6421 amps, use a 13 amp fuse.

[h=3]Fuse Rating Calculations[/h]The assumption in this calculation is that their are only 3 fuse ratings, 3 amp, 5 amp and 13 amp.

Say the power is 500 watts.

Fuse rating = (watts/volts) x 1.25

Fuse rating = (500/240) x 1.25

Fuse rating = (2.083333333) x 1.25

Fuse rating = 2.604166667 amps

Next fuse up is a 3 amp fuse, use a 3 amp fuse.

Say the power is 200 watts.

Fuse rating = (watts/volts) x 1.25

Fuse rating = (200/240) x 1.25

Fuse rating = (0.83333333) x 1.25

Fuse rating = 1.04166667 amps

Next fuse up is a 3 amp fuse, use a 3 amp fuse.

Say the power is 1500 watts.

Fuse rating = (watts/volts) x 1.25

Fuse rating = (1500/240) x 1.25

Fuse rating = (6.25) x 1.25

Fuse rating = 7.8136 amps

Next fuse up is a 13 amp fuse, use a 13 amp fuse.

Say the power is 900 watts.

Fuse rating = (watts/volts) x 1.25

Fuse rating = (900/240) x 1.25

Fuse rating = (3.755) x 1.25

Fuse rating = 4.6875 amps

Next fuse up is a 5 amp fuse, use a 5 amp fuse.

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I just received my shipping notice and it's due to arrive on the 17th, subject to snow apparently! I'm looking forward to it even though it's been so long my new PC has ended up in the office instead. For the time being I'll be using it with an old 130w CPU machine which should give the 210w PSU a run for its money. Average power draw on that is about 110w using a decent SMPS, so I'm guessing it will be running at around 50% of the Teradak's capacity when playing music. What I don't know is whether it will provide enough power to switch on and run stable. Only one way to find out... I'll build a new music server at some point I'm sure.

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Just done modified the backplate 2 days ago. It does not look good but I'm ok with that and it works. (that was my first time to cut steel)

 

http://i.imgur.com/DsveXkd.jpg My PC backplate had a tiny hole so it can't fit the cable and I had to cut them.

b - Album on Imgur

 

After I done the mod and shows the pictures to my friend. He told me why don't you flip that ugly backplate side and use the other side ?

Me : Dang !! I totally forgot about it. Well .. what's done is done. I don't want to do it any more.

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Dremel level novice, ha ha. It probably looks better than my ever would look like, after I put my hands on it :)

 

I started contemplating ordering a custom nade, CNCed backplate, about 2x 2" in size, to nicely cover the cutout.

 

Anyone interested ?


Adam

 

PC: Hot rodded CAPS v4 Pipeline: Teradak ATX linear PSU, Jcat Femto USB card, UpTone Audio JS-2 + 2x LPS-1.2 combo, Jcat SSD battery PSU, Jcat SATA cable, TotalDAC D1 USB cable, SOtM sMS-200, W4S Recovery USB, Jcat USB Isolator, Win 2012, AO v2.10

Digital: Lampizator Pacific DAC

Amp: Dan D'Agostino Momentum Stereo

Speakers: Magcio M3

Cables: AudioQuest WEL Signature IC / Shunyata Anaconda Z-Tron SC

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@ Ben-m

I've not received any shipping notification from paypal, but Mordo (his house is the shipping destination for teradak) has received a phone call from DHL asking confirmation for a shipping.

They say that the content of the package is a 210w atx power suplly.

But I'm waiting and paid for a 275w and Mordo for a 350w.

Do you know if 210w is declared only to lower taxes or teradak has made a mistake?

Could you confirm that also Mordo's power suplly will be shipped before 19th of February?

Edited by grunter

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@Ben-m

Excuse me Ben. If teradak have shipped a 210w instead of a 275 w do you think that 210w is sufficient for this PC?

-mb Gigabyte ga-h87n-wifi

-cpu Intel I7 4770s

-dissipatore x cpu zalman cnps8900

-8Gb RAM 1666Mhz

-hd ssd Kingston SV300 60Gb

-3 external hard disk that take power from motherboard

 

If so I could use the 210w instead of the 275w I've paid for.

I think that 210w is barely sufficient. Actually I use only for motherboard (and consequently for the 3 external hard disk) a picopsu that signs a 1.6 A absorption.

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My ATX 210 is scheduled to arrive Monday. Hooking these types of things up isn't my specialty. I'm using a CAPS Zuma. If anyone has hooked up their ATX to a CAPS Zuma (or other model), could you drop me a PM letting me know what steps were required (or photos of the connections from the ATX to the CAPS). In my CAPS, I'm using a SOTM USB card.

 

Thanks!

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I'm just jealous everyone keeps saying their's is about to arrive and i'm still waiting for shipping notification :-(


customer server+AudiophileOptimizer >>UltraRendu (SR4) >> Lush(JSSG360) >>> IsoRegen(SR4) >>> Lush^2 >>> blu2 >>Blaxius^2D >> Dave > HD800(SDRmod)

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I'm just jealous everyone keeps saying their's is about to arrive and i'm still waiting for shipping notification :-(

 

Me too :(


Adam

 

PC: Hot rodded CAPS v4 Pipeline: Teradak ATX linear PSU, Jcat Femto USB card, UpTone Audio JS-2 + 2x LPS-1.2 combo, Jcat SSD battery PSU, Jcat SATA cable, TotalDAC D1 USB cable, SOtM sMS-200, W4S Recovery USB, Jcat USB Isolator, Win 2012, AO v2.10

Digital: Lampizator Pacific DAC

Amp: Dan D'Agostino Momentum Stereo

Speakers: Magcio M3

Cables: AudioQuest WEL Signature IC / Shunyata Anaconda Z-Tron SC

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@Ben-m

Excuse me Ben. If teradak have shipped a 210w instead of a 275 w do you think that 210w is sufficient for this PC?

-mb Gigabyte ga-h87n-wifi

-cpu Intel I7 4770s

-dissipatore x cpu zalman cnps8900

-8Gb RAM 1666Mhz

-hd ssd Kingston SV300 60Gb

-3 external hard disk that take power from motherboard

 

If so I could use the 210w instead of the 275w I've paid for.

I think that 210w is barely sufficient. Actually I use only for motherboard (and consequently for the 3 external hard disk) a picopsu that signs a 1.6 A absorption.

 

It very well could be fine, grunter, since you're not using it for very much.

 

Let's see what actually shows up. The PSU will say right on it what it is, even if the customs form is incorrect. So let's wait for that.

 

As far as real power draw, the biggest concern is just during start up. After that we're all running stripped down, low demand stuff, so it'll be fine. IMO :-)

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Hi Ben,

 

 

I received mine today, that is ATX-350. I haven't got time to fire it up, probably this weekend. But i did check things around and found a strange thing. Two fuses that were installed in fuse box are 8A and while i got another spare fuse wrapped together with back-plate which is 3A.

 

Please correct me if i am wrong, but ATX-350 should consume max 500 Watts according to your spec sheet and if divided by 220V (my country's electric) that should be 2.3A approximately. 8A is obviously too much, even 3A is over the line.

 

Even if i use 110V as an input, that would be 4.5A fuse. I don't know why they gave me two 8A and one 3A. I could buy another fuse, they are only few dollars, no worries about that. But i do want to know which is the correct fuse for this power supply? Can you confirm back to Teradak about this?

 

To other people, please check your fuse before using it!!!

 

So, I got word back from Teradak.

 

Teradak confirmed the 3A fuse is for the +5VSB, and the 8A is for the rest of the PSU.

 

The reason why it's an 8A fuse is because at start up there is a large in rush of current, which is higher than the saying you get by dividing PSU Watts by the supply voltage. Teradak said they found that rating it twice the normal consumption allowed for covering this in rush.

 

Further, they said they would have picked 7A, as this more closely matched the "double" rating, but they could not find a supplier who could deliver 7A fuses in the time frame.

 

In the end, the supplied fuse is done so by the manufacturer and is within the warranty. You may replace the fuse with a lower spec rating if you feel that better meets your needs, but not a higher one.

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My ATX 210 is scheduled to arrive Monday. Hooking these types of things up isn't my specialty. I'm using a CAPS Zuma. If anyone has hooked up their ATX to a CAPS Zuma (or other model), could you drop me a PM letting me know what steps were required (or photos of the connections from the ATX to the CAPS). In my CAPS, I'm using a SOTM USB card.

 

Thanks!

 

I have faith, Thomas. All of the cables are unique shapes, so they can't be installed in any other slot that's what they're designed for.

 

Depending on your configuration of the USB card, or lack there of, that's where you may be able to skip the +5VSB connection. That's the extra, smaller cable coming out of the Teradak LPS box.

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Ben,

 

I think you asked to let you know when our LPS arrived. I received my 275W power supply as ordered today.

 

I did have one question but will put that in a separate post to keep it separate from the notification.

 

Regards

Mark

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Ben,

 

One fairly minor issue with my 275W LPS. The bolt coming through the bottom of the case that holds down the toroidal transformer was loose when it arrived. I did it up a turn or 2 by hand but would like to nip it up with a socket. I does not need to be too tight but better than finger tight would be good. However before I do this I would like to take the top cover off, make sure the transformer has not turned and hold it by hand to ensure it does not rotate whilst I nip up the bolt. All easy to do but there is a sticker over one of the cover screws advising that the warranty is void if removed.

 

I am sure Teradak don't want the whole unit shipped back to China just to nip up the bolt. Whilst I could just do up the bolt from the outside I do not like doing up bolts without holding what is effectively the nut. Whilst the transformer can only rotate so far before the wire leads will stop it I would rather not risk putting any strain on the transformer leads.

 

At this stage I have not fired up the power supply as I would like to check the transformer has not rotated and then tighten it up before putting 240V into it. I also do not want to wait a full month till the end of the holiday period just to get Teradaks nod to take off the top cover without risking losing my warranty. It is such a simple minor fix.

 

Ben, I know you are only the middle man assisting us all with a group buy of the LPS's so it is certainly not your problem. However any thoughts from yourself or others on removing the sticker so I can take the top cover off and tighten the transformer bolt properly would be appreciated.

 

Apart from that minor issue all looks good with the unit. I am sure I will be happy with it.

 

One other minor item for the information of others. The spare fuses that came in the plastic bag with mine were also 8 amp and 3 amp 250V fuses. However the actual fuse fitted in the IEC power inlet on my unit is 5A 250V. There is also a spare 5A fuse in this holder. I am in Australia on 240V so a 5A fuse should provide 1,200 watts. I would be surprised if this is not adequate for a 275W power supply but if it blows on start up I can always try the supplied 8A fuse. As for the 3A fuse for the separate +5VSB rail I assume that fuse is internal and you need to take the top cover off to access it. Arrrrre the top cover again ! (Couldn't resist).

 

Hope everyone else is just as happy with their first impressions of the unit as I am. Now to hear from everyone else on the net outcome to he sound in their systems when they use their new LPS's !

 

In the interim

Regards to All

 

Mark

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Ben - can you get a firm confirmation from Teradak that all units have been shipped ?

 

I still haven't received the tracking # or any shipping confirmation from Teradak and they are closing for a month just in 2 days time.

 

I was waiting patiently for over 3 months, but now I must say - I'm getting a bit nervous.


Adam

 

PC: Hot rodded CAPS v4 Pipeline: Teradak ATX linear PSU, Jcat Femto USB card, UpTone Audio JS-2 + 2x LPS-1.2 combo, Jcat SSD battery PSU, Jcat SATA cable, TotalDAC D1 USB cable, SOtM sMS-200, W4S Recovery USB, Jcat USB Isolator, Win 2012, AO v2.10

Digital: Lampizator Pacific DAC

Amp: Dan D'Agostino Momentum Stereo

Speakers: Magcio M3

Cables: AudioQuest WEL Signature IC / Shunyata Anaconda Z-Tron SC

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Ben - can you get a firm confirmation from Teradak that all units have been shipped ?

 

I still haven't received the tracking # or any shipping confirmation from Teradak and they are closing for a month just in 2 days time.

 

I was waiting patiently for over 3 months, but now I must say - I'm getting a bit nervous.

 

Also I am in your same situation .... I hope to get the track before 18 ........ would be hard to wait .......

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Ben - can you get a firm confirmation from Teradak that all units have been shipped ?

 

I still haven't received the tracking # or any shipping confirmation from Teradak and they are closing for a month just in 2 days time.

 

I was waiting patiently for over 3 months, but now I must say - I'm getting a bit nervous.

 

I am also waiting for tracking no. still


customer server+AudiophileOptimizer >>UltraRendu (SR4) >> Lush(JSSG360) >>> IsoRegen(SR4) >>> Lush^2 >>> blu2 >>Blaxius^2D >> Dave > HD800(SDRmod)

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Do not be surprised if they arrive without any shipping confirmation, mine arrived last week without any shipping notification!

A welcome surprise and they look very well built....have not tested yet.

Thanks again Ben for all the good work.


Audio PC - Gigabyte H97M-D3H, i7 at 800Mhz, RAM at 800Mhz & PPA OCXO Mobo, Teradak ATX Linear for 20 pin ATX on Mobo, Paul Hynes SR7EHD 12v, 5v & 5v supply on Mobo, Stammheim 12x LT3045's for 1.3v to RAM direct supply, JCat V2 USB Card, WTFPlay Linux Audiophile Player control by MELE F10, Startech LEX to REX on 12v Paul Hynes with 2x SLC cards and out by POE to ISO/Regen, PPA Red USB Cable, Lampizator Big7, Nige design Lifepo4 powered amp, Raidho C1s.

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I received the ATX tonight. There was no back plate for my CAPS, nor any extra fuses. Ben, I'll drop you a note about this after Chinese New Years.

 

Attached is a picture of what connections I believe I need to make to my CAPS Zuma. I'd appreciate any feedback on whether these are the connectors I should plug in. Thanks!

 

ATX Power Questions.jpg

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My two 350W PSUs arrived yesterday without warning. Tracking info turned up this morning. Units were very well packed.

Thanks. Ben for your hard work in pulling this group buy together

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My package was supposed to be delivered today by FedEx, but according to the tracking details it still hasn't left Hong Kong. I spoke to FedEx UK and they said they can't ask FedEx HK why it's still there. Apparently I need to make an international phone call and ask a JX Feng (who works for YFHEX Logistics Company Ltd) to ask FedEx HK why they haven't shipped the package. That's not Teradak's fault, but WTF? Why can't FedEx UK talk to FedEx HK themselves?

 

Ben, you're probably regretting doing this whole thing by now, but could you please ask Teradak to follow up my shipment from their end and see why it hasn't moved? I can send you the tracking details if you want, but Teradak should have them already. Thanks.

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Good news: got a tracking # from PayPal today.


Adam

 

PC: Hot rodded CAPS v4 Pipeline: Teradak ATX linear PSU, Jcat Femto USB card, UpTone Audio JS-2 + 2x LPS-1.2 combo, Jcat SSD battery PSU, Jcat SATA cable, TotalDAC D1 USB cable, SOtM sMS-200, W4S Recovery USB, Jcat USB Isolator, Win 2012, AO v2.10

Digital: Lampizator Pacific DAC

Amp: Dan D'Agostino Momentum Stereo

Speakers: Magcio M3

Cables: AudioQuest WEL Signature IC / Shunyata Anaconda Z-Tron SC

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