Group Buy for full ATX Linear PSU from Teradak

[twist222]

Ben-M,

 

Firstly, thank you for organising this group buy. I expect there is a lot more work in it for you than you first thought.

 

I currently use a Paul Hynes linear supply to power my 2009 Mac Mini. After hearing how much of an improvement it made in my system, where ever possible I will be staying with linear power supplies for my computer based set ups.

 

I currently use a Metric Halo ULN 8 for my DAC. A news 3D upgrade board will soon be available for the ULN 8. This will allow me to use a Mac, PC, or linux based operating system. Currently the ULN 8 is Mac only. The ability to use a windows based system will open up options (including Accurate) for my 4 way active system.

 

In short I do not have a windows based PC yet but I want to get ready for the ULN 8 upgrade.

 

Because the Teradak PSU is for a PC I am yet to build I am not 100% on what wattage capacity I will need or the size of the back plate but as I have no need for graphics the ATX 275 and the large back plate should give me some options in the future.

 

I will PM you the answers to the required questions but in summary

 

(i) see PM but I am in Brisbane, Australia

(ii) ATX 275

(iii) One unit

(iv) 230 v

(v) Option (B) 2 x SATA + 1 x molex

(vi) Yes ready for the additional shipping costs when they are finalised

(vii) big size back plate

 

Lastly I am ready to order and pay Teradak as soon as the costs are finalised so I would like to be added to the first Tier 1 Group.

 

Thanks again for organising this.

 

Regards

Mark

[twist222]

I am not sure if you intended us all to confirm ? But just to be sure ....

Yes. Add mine to the list of correct ones.

 

Regards

Mark

[twist222]

Ben,

 

Do we have a date that payments are to be in by ? In my case with work commitments it would be easier if I put payment through this Friday. However I want to make sure that is not going to cause any problems.

 

Regards

Mark

[twist222]

Paid - Buyer ID 19

 

Ben,

 

I have also sent you a PM on the delivery address.

 

Regards

Mark

[twist222]

Thanks to Ben and Teradak for all their work. The linear power supplies certainly look good. If they work 1/2 as good as they look Teradak should have a hit on their hands.

 

Looking forward to receiving mine and building a new PC for it. Now what to use in that new PC ??? Got the power supply sorted, but !!!l the rest ?

 

Regards to all on the thread

Mark

[twist222]

Ben,

 

I think you asked to let you know when our LPS arrived. I received my 275W power supply as ordered today.

 

I did have one question but will put that in a separate post to keep it separate from the notification.

 

Regards

Mark

[twist222]

Ben,

 

One fairly minor issue with my 275W LPS. The bolt coming through the bottom of the case that holds down the toroidal transformer was loose when it arrived. I did it up a turn or 2 by hand but would like to nip it up with a socket. I does not need to be too tight but better than finger tight would be good. However before I do this I would like to take the top cover off, make sure the transformer has not turned and hold it by hand to ensure it does not rotate whilst I nip up the bolt. All easy to do but there is a sticker over one of the cover screws advising that the warranty is void if removed.

 

I am sure Teradak don't want the whole unit shipped back to China just to nip up the bolt. Whilst I could just do up the bolt from the outside I do not like doing up bolts without holding what is effectively the nut. Whilst the transformer can only rotate so far before the wire leads will stop it I would rather not risk putting any strain on the transformer leads.

 

At this stage I have not fired up the power supply as I would like to check the transformer has not rotated and then tighten it up before putting 240V into it. I also do not want to wait a full month till the end of the holiday period just to get Teradaks nod to take off the top cover without risking losing my warranty. It is such a simple minor fix.

 

Ben, I know you are only the middle man assisting us all with a group buy of the LPS's so it is certainly not your problem. However any thoughts from yourself or others on removing the sticker so I can take the top cover off and tighten the transformer bolt properly would be appreciated.

 

Apart from that minor issue all looks good with the unit. I am sure I will be happy with it.

 

One other minor item for the information of others. The spare fuses that came in the plastic bag with mine were also 8 amp and 3 amp 250V fuses. However the actual fuse fitted in the IEC power inlet on my unit is 5A 250V. There is also a spare 5A fuse in this holder. I am in Australia on 240V so a 5A fuse should provide 1,200 watts. I would be surprised if this is not adequate for a 275W power supply but if it blows on start up I can always try the supplied 8A fuse. As for the 3A fuse for the separate +5VSB rail I assume that fuse is internal and you need to take the top cover off to access it. Arrrrre the top cover again ! (Couldn't resist).

 

Hope everyone else is just as happy with their first impressions of the unit as I am. Now to hear from everyone else on the net outcome to he sound in their systems when they use their new LPS's !

 

In the interim

Regards to All

 

Mark

[twist222]

Thanks Ben,

 

Yes I like Option B. It is such a minor bit of work but if it was something I was building I would always hold the nut whilst doing up the bolt. Particularly when it takes so little extra time to undo the 6 cover screws and do it properly. And as you mentioned it does give a little extra peace of mind when you know all is right. There is a warranty on the power supply to be considered but there is also the fact that it is plugged into to 240V mains supply of my house. It will be good to know all is right.

 

Hope you get a break for Chinese New Year and enjoy the holiday.

 

Regards

Mark

 

 

So Mark, here's the official word from Teradak.

 

Warranty Info:

 

Option A: (recommended)

Tighten it from outside, the retaining nut will hold it.

 

 

Option B: (possible, if you REALLY want to)

1. First, take pictures of all 6 sides outside before you open it.

2. Upon opening it take some nice pictures of the inside before you do ANYTHING. They need to be well lit and clear.

3. Then do whatever it is that you wanted to do.

4. Take some more nice pictures when you're finished. Again, well lit and clear.

5. Close the unit back up.

6. Sign and date a new piece of paper-tape and stick it anywhere along the back panel, just not over the first one.

7. Take a final set of 6 pictures of the closed unit; make sure the back one with the new "seal" is clearly showing the old and new "seals", their dates, and signatures.

 

= The warranty will then be based on these pictures.

 

 

Since you're doing basically nothing at all, but would surely appreciate the peace of mind, I guess you'll be going with Option B? As long as you get the pictures out of the way and then save them where they'll never be deleted, it all sounds pretty straight forward. It's what I'd do as well. In fact, it's what I've already done with my units :-)

[twist222]

Mine has arrived and it's up and running. I need to flag that it had no sticker over the rear screw however, and the paint is missing in that area. It looks as though someone has opened it up (presumably to retrofit the LEDs) and then not put the sticker back on afterwards. I'm not hugely bothered as it's at the back, but I want to mention it now for warranty purposes. It was still cold from being delivered in the pictures, hence the slight sheen of condensation on the top.

 

My unit also makes a faint clacking sound if I physically move it about, as though something is bumping inside. It works perfectly and is dead silent in use, so that's just for reference. None of my LEDs are flashing (that I can see).

 

[ATTACH=CONFIG]17107[/ATTACH] [ATTACH=CONFIG]17108[/ATTACH]

 

I chickened out of hooking it up to my i7 920 and built a small dual core Celeron SoC instead, which only uses 10W. My 210W PSU now feels a bit overpowered! This is the internal build, using a Silverstone case that had a full size ATX opening at the back. It sure is colourful. :-)

 

[ATTACH=CONFIG]17109[/ATTACH]

 

The SSD is powered by the additional 5v output (running through a spare PCI slot) and everything else runs from the main loom.

 

No sound tests yet as I need to complete the software installation, do Windows updates and all that stuff, then let it burn in for a while. The Silverstone is no Streacom in the looks department, but it was dirt cheap and really easy to build.

 

[ATTACH=CONFIG]17110[/ATTACH]

 

Mr Sprout,

 

In relation to your unit making "a faint clacking sound if I physically move it about, as though something is bumping inside."

 

 

I think you will find the "faint clacking sound" you are hearing when "move it about" is the spare fuse in the IEC power inlet. If you slide out the fuse holder on the IEC inlet you will see there are 2 fuses in the holder. One that is being used and a spare in the little plastic tray. If you take the spare fuse out of the tray and slide the fuse holder back in you should find the "faint clacking sound" has gone. Anyway that is what I found on my 275W Teradak PS. Once I found the cause of the noise I actually put the spare fuse back in the holder so I can find it if I ever need it in the future.

 

Hope this helps.

 

Regards

 

Mark