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Group Buy for full ATX Linear PSU from Teradak


Ben-M

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  • 4 months later...

Is it possible to install the back-plate for the loom connection to an unmodified Streamcom FC10 or Fractal Node 605? [i’m trying to avoid having to modify a case given the time / hassle associated with getting this done locally.]

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If anyone already has modded his FC-10, please post images showing his work. I have some ideas, but without even having the PSU yet, cannot try them.

 

Yes, that would be great. Is there a specific back-plate for the FC-10 or does the PSU just ship with the normal ATX plate (which, presumably, will also need to be cut down to size)?

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  • 2 months later...

Has anyone done a comparison between Teradak ATX and dual Iinear 12V PSU into PicoPSU & CPU (as per Paul Pang Audio)? I've seen some lots reports of improvements over laptop brick into PicoPSU but not a comparison where the PicoPSU is fed with a 12v linear and at a lower load as a result of not having to power the CPU.

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  • 7 months later...

I'm considering replacing simple laptop brick driving a CAPS V4 variant in a Streamcom FC10 case with the Teradak ATX PSU. What, though, is the best backplate (SFX, Flex ATX or ATX)? How does one modify the case (pictures would be great)? And how does this all compare with, say, a good linear PSU into a PicoPSU?

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Just read last few posts... all answers to your questions are there.

 

Good luck

 

Sent from my HTC One using Tapatalk

 

Similar to others, I did not use the back plate that Teradak provided. I drilled a 30mm hole where Streacom back plate goes and then used the provided Teradak back plate as a template to drill the 4 holes needed to attached the power cord. I purchased 4 nuts to use with the screws provided by Teradak to attach the power cord to the back of the FC10. I removed the back of the FC10 to do all this. It is much harder to do all the work with the back attached, but it is possible to do it that way.

 

Thanks.

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  • 1 month later...

I've received an ATX-390 and have modified the Streamcom FC10 Alpha case to take the DC power cables. The PSU powers up (sees an amber light on the on-/off switch) and the motherboard has some lights on indicating that it is getting power. My issue is that starting the computer seems to trip the PSU with their being a click and then the computer stops booting - at the end of this process the PSU still has an amber light on and it's possible to repeat. I'm planning on stripping back the h/w on the machine but wanted to find out if anyone has specific experience and/or suggestions. Thanks in advance.

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