sebna Posted December 22, 2014 Share Posted December 22, 2014 They look good, that is for sure Ben am I right that the main power switch at the back will also shutdown the +5VSB loom when flipped to off position? Cheers Link to comment
sebna Posted January 8, 2015 Share Posted January 8, 2015 Why instead of chasing people who did not give their phone numbers not to send to those for who they already had the number for? Link to comment
sebna Posted January 14, 2015 Share Posted January 14, 2015 Ben and what is the issue? What is the problem with one of the sent units? Link to comment
sebna Posted January 27, 2015 Share Posted January 27, 2015 Congratulations Ben! All the best to both of you. Link to comment
sebna Posted February 4, 2015 Share Posted February 4, 2015 I still would like to know what was the problem with some units as it is my equipment at stake which potentially is at risk. Also once we know what was the problem we can confirm that our units are ok. Cheers Link to comment
sebna Posted February 5, 2015 Share Posted February 5, 2015 Thanks, _JL_ for clarifying what was the problem. [12V Rail] - Original ripple RMS: ~40mV - LED-mod ripple RMS: ~40mV [5V Rail] - Original ripple RMS: ~110mV - LED-mod ripple RMS: ~25mV Those numbers are nowhere near to what was advertised to us on page 3 I think. I have gotten a reply for the ripple/noise readings on the ATX 275. Michael told me that all 3 ATX PSUs run at similar levels, so we went with the middle of the road PSU for the testing to get some numbers. [ATTACH=CONFIG]14886[/ATTACH] Link to comment
sebna Posted February 5, 2015 Share Posted February 5, 2015 _JL_ thank you one more time for another update. Now those numbers looks much better Do you know, by any chances, if they shipped all of them already or is it still work in progress? Cheers Link to comment
sebna Posted February 6, 2015 Share Posted February 6, 2015 Right. Is there a way to find out / to measure the quality of that rail? Or can you ask Teradak? It seems silly spending money on full linear ATX and then feed the USB card (most critical for SQ) dirty power..... Thx for your time! Hans +1 I also have great plans for this line (+5vsb). Link to comment
sebna Posted February 7, 2015 Share Posted February 7, 2015 Ben, welcome back We know about the 3 basic lines but do you know if +5vsb was also checked for ripple and if it was upgraded if the upgrade was needed? Cheers Link to comment
sebna Posted February 8, 2015 Share Posted February 8, 2015 The +5VSB is not generated the same way as the other 3 rails, thus no LED mod or CAP upgrade could be applied. The +5VSB uses an LT1084 linear regulator for it's output and these have 0.015% line regulation. I have asked Teradak for scope readings like they provided for the cap mod, but we'll have to see what they can do depending on what +5V devices they have on hand as well as what time constraints they're facing. Chinese New Year is in about 1 week and the holiday last about 1 month, so right now Teradak really has a lot on their plates. Thanks for an update. Would be great if they could do a test on +5vsb as well and if not them maybe _JL_ will Cheers Link to comment
sebna Posted July 20, 2015 Share Posted July 20, 2015 Slight hum on mine from day one Cannot hear it from my listening position 3m away... it is faint but it is there. Other then that very happy bunny. Convenience is great. Link to comment
sebna Posted July 23, 2015 Share Posted July 23, 2015 I cannot measure DC offset but I do not think it is the case as my PC is connected through two AC sine wave regenerators, which are daisy chained (each do AC -> DC -> AC conversion to output clean AC wave). Normally everything which is noisy goes quiet when connected through even one of them so the problem must be of different nature? As I said in my case it is very faint hum so it is not a problem but of course it is not perfect also. Link to comment
sebna Posted August 15, 2015 Share Posted August 15, 2015 Hi Guys, Have any of the owners experimented with aftermarket fuses for Teradak PSUs? If so what were your findings? Cheers Link to comment
sebna Posted August 16, 2015 Share Posted August 16, 2015 Ben, many thanks for the detailed answer. in my case the unit will sit next to a small form factor box, the Streacom FC10. I will have to figure out which plate will work for that one. btw; my name is Mike and the TIA was for Thanks In Advance. I see how that was confusing. again, thank you. Mike With FC10 you will have to drill the hole for umbilical socket... I followed advice from Elb and did it with dremel high speed rotary tool and even tough I have held it for the very first time in my hands it came out perfect. Took me half an hour as I was mostly getting accustomed with the tool and picking up the right type of drill bit for the job as I had choice of few. Good luck Sent from my HTC One using Tapatalk Link to comment
sebna Posted August 16, 2015 Share Posted August 16, 2015 You welcome. If you are looking for more details few pages back in this thread there is photo relation of Elb from his initial job, which I have found useful. Sent from my HTC One using Tapatalk Link to comment
sebna Posted August 18, 2015 Share Posted August 18, 2015 Mike, When I think about this, if you would be going the route of Dremel, my word of advice would be to remove the back plate (wall) from the case for drilling and to start (and finish) drilling on the inner side of the back plate (so the one which will be hidden when you put the case back together after you are finished with drilling). That is because if the drill will jump you will not make a mess from mat finish on the visible side Cheers, seb Link to comment
sebna Posted August 31, 2015 Share Posted August 31, 2015 Is it flying your way now or are you still in the dark? Link to comment
sebna Posted September 3, 2015 Share Posted September 3, 2015 Question for those who are using this PS. i have one coming in: When I connect the 24 pin connector to motherboard. How the switching will work. I have a toggle switch on the case which is connected to the mobo, and then there is a switch on the power supply as well. Do I need to leave the switch on the power supply ON all the time and then just use switch on the PC for ON and OFF. Let me know. Thanks. Yes you can leave the power switch on the PSU chassis all the time in the ON position and then you can power on and off your PC with usual power button on the PC case. Cheers Link to comment
sebna Posted September 4, 2015 Share Posted September 4, 2015 Yes i have and it impacts greatly on my sound system. I also changed my fuses on my amps and DAC. I do recommend you to do so as well. I have started experimenting with fuses recently and first one I exchanged was in Teradak... it gives nice improvement. I tried SR Red. It changes the sound 80% in the direction I like and 20% which I would prefer not to touch in my system. Link to comment
sebna Posted December 29, 2015 Share Posted December 29, 2015 I'm considering replacing simple laptop brick driving a CAPS V4 variant in a Streamcom FC10 case with the Teradak ATX PSU. What, though, is the best backplate (SFX, Flex ATX or ATX)? How does one modify the case (pictures would be great)? And how does this all compare with, say, a good linear PSU into a PicoPSU? Just read last few posts... all answers to your questions are there. Good luck Sent from my HTC One using Tapatalk Link to comment
sebna Posted February 15, 2016 Share Posted February 15, 2016 I'm planning to build a dedicated audio pc soon and I'm evaluating a Linear ATX PSU. Idea is to use a Asus motherboard, with intel i7 6700 and Nofan passive cooler, 8gb ram and a 120GB SSD. Do you think the Teradak 210 could be powerful enough? Plenty. Last think, this thread is huge and I can't pass one day to read it all, do you think that sound quality improvement from SMPS to Linear is worth the requested price? Thank you! Definitely worth it. As to rest of the questions maybe somebody else will be able to give you some insight. Cheers Link to comment
sebna Posted April 1, 2016 Share Posted April 1, 2016 Problems your experiencing Ben were very common in the past. Most of them would fall under "cold boot" term. They were usually down to bad design of mobo... the easiest solution was to get rid of problematic MB. Cold boot issues might come also from incompatibilities of RAM, MB and PSU so sometimes the issues could be fixed by just replacing RAM for different. Now your problems AD 2016 might be of totally different nature but from your description it certainly looks like cold boot problems. Maybe it will help you somehow. Good luck Link to comment
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