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Group Buy for full ATX Linear PSU from Teradak


Ben-M

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Hey guys, this is what we’re looking at.

 

I’ve started a Group Buy for a group of Linear ATX PSUs from Teradak. Teradak provides aftermarket linear power supplies for many different products and has a history of working with audiophiles to make custom units for their various components.

Website: www.teradak.com

 

Below in the pricing you will see the 3 different units; the ATX 210, ATX 275, and ATX 350. All three versions share most internal parts besides the transformers. Teradak has confirmed that all three sound the same and produce similar ripple. Sorry, I don’t have the numbers on hand. The only thing that will define your choice is how much power you need today for simple music playback, or DSP, Room Correction, and Conversion, or if you ever see yourself re-purposing your AudioPC into a home-theatre PC down the road and need more power for a light GPU.

 

Beyond these units being a Linear ATX power supply, there are 2 things that make these Linear Power Supplies even more special than the very few that are even out there:

(1.) They have all necessary, standard ATX rails & connectors: +12V, +5V, +3.3V, +5VSB, -12V

(2.) They’re not “dumb”. They have the proper start-up/power-on sequence to allow an ATX spec motherboard to turn on with the push of the power button. No hassle.

 

And because this is a Group Buy there are some other special goodies that you won’t be getting in any other order.

(1.) Special Internal Wiring: the addition of a +5VSB MOLEX (always on, even when the PC isn’t)

– specifically designed for a trickle-charger for a battery supply to go “off grid”

– could also be used to power a low-power SSD or PCIe USB card if you have an off switch

– includes a MOLEX-> 2 x SATA adaptor

(2.) Special Internal Wiring Choice: either (A) or (B) coming directly off the regulator

(A) 3 x SATA or

(B) 2 x SATA + 1 x MOLEX

(3.) Special Group Buy Colour: Sand-blasted(matte/powder-coated) Black Aluminum

– we can only have this if we get 10 units in the GB, if not it’s the standard brushed black

– we’re only 2 confirmed units away from this right now.

– not available on any other Teradak products; looks very handsome and matches the Streacom matte black finish very well.

 

 

With those extra bits the Teradak has given us, these Linear PSUs are basically the answer to all of my searching and DIY’ing for a proper, and not $5000 like a custom Paul Hynes, linear computer-ATX power supply for the past 2 years. And once finding them and getting some feedback, I thought to take it to a Group Buy to help more Audiophiles get access to something that might really help step up their computer source quality game.

 

Here is a link to Teradak’s OneDrive account with pictures of the standard ATX-210/275/350. Keep in mind our colour will be better and we have a few other wires coming off the loom.

https://onedrive.live.com/?cid=1eb7027489224a7d&id=1EB7027489224A7D!888&Bsrc=Share&Bpub=SDX.SkyDrive&authkey=!Aup2AKzO-lzXYuc

 

 

Now for some #s.

Shipping Info:

Regular price for ATX Supply 210/275/350 = $XXXUSD + shipping(~$150USD) to USA.

 

Their Sales Rep Michael said the ATX's shipping weight is around 12kg and shipping to the USA is the most expensive, meaning that every other location will cost less than that. Right away we're already looking at a discount. And, it's a better deal if you get 2 units :-)

Current, Special Group Buy Shipping:

For 1 unit = $108 to USA(max cost)

For 2 units = $152 to USA(max cost)

 

Secondly, Teradak will balance our shipping costs so that everyone in the Group Buy gets the same discount, no matter where you're buying from. This doesn't mean the shipping costs will be averaged, but that everyone will get a special shipping rate(%) and pay a less than usual. Michael said once the Group Buy is finalized that I need to email him a list of our addresses and then he'll reply with what the final shipping costs will be.

Shipping cost will depend on 2 things:

#1 - Where you live (how far they have to ship it)

#2a - How many people we can get to participate in the Group Buy

2b - the more people we get to go in on this, the better the shipping rate Michael said they can give us. So, spread the word.

Group Buy Pricing:

Initially Teradak and I weren’t sure how many people we could get, so Michael established a mix and match, 3 tier pricing scheme.

 

We’re currently in tier 2, with 8 confirmed units. With just 4 more units we’ll move into tier 3 for the greatest discount.

 

There is only 1 Group Buy, but the buyers can pick whichever power supply(and connected price) they need. In the end our total number of units (ATX 210 + 275 + 350) will be added together and that will dictate which prices we pay for each kind of unit. And don’t forget about the shipping deal too, the more buyers we get the greater shipping discount we’ll all get.

 

Group Buy prices for Linear ATX PSUs:

 

ATX 210:

Regular Price - $545USD + ~$150 shipping to the USA

 

4-6 units - $490 each + shipping(max $108/for 1 or $152/for 2)

7-11 units - $450 each + shipping(max $108/for 1 or $152/for 2)

+12 units - $410 each + shipping(max $108/for 1 or $152/for 2)

 

ATX 275:

Regular Price - $635USD + ~$150 shipping to the USA

 

4-6 units - $580 each + shipping(max $108/for 1 or $152/for 2)

7-11 units - $520 each + shipping(max $108/for 1 or $152/for 2)

+12 units - $480 each + shipping(max $108/for 1 or $152/for 2)

 

ATX 350:

Regular Price - $725USD + ~$150 shipping to the USA

 

4-6 units - $660 each + shipping(max $108/for 1 or $152/for 2)

7-11 units - $610 each + shipping(max $108/for 1 or $152/for 2)

+12 units - $560 each + shipping(max $108/for 1 or $152/for 2)

 

Teradak Linear ATX Supplies.jpg

 

 

FAQs about our Special Group Buy units:

1. Warranty: 1 year parts and labour on unmodified and un-physically damaged units.

2. Colour: Sand-blasted(matte) Black Special Group Buy colour.

3. Internal Wiring: 1 x ATX 20+4-pin, 1 x CPU 4+4-pin, and 1x VGA 6+2-pin

4. Special Group Buy Internal Wiring: either (A) or (B) wired directly from the regulators

(A) 3 x SATA connectors

(B) 2 x SATA + 1 x MOLEX connectors

5. Special Group Buy Additional Wiring: 1 x MOLEX 4-pin from +5VSB

- always on, could be used to trickle charge a battery. Has only 2-3A current.

- Includes MOLEX-> 2 x SATA adaptor

6. Voltage: Buyer needs to specify either

(A) 100-120 @ 60Hz (North America and Japan style)

(B) 220-240 @ 50Hz (Europe and China style)

7. Special Shipping Rate: There is already a discount, which you can see, but the more units in the Group Buy the lower the final shipping cost. I’ll PM you about the final cost at the end.

 

Instructions for Purchasing:

1. Teradak accepts Paypal and wire transfer.

2. Only post in ONE site’s Group Buy thread. I have listed this Group Buy on multiple websites.

3. If you want in you need to post here in the thread with how many units and what version (210/275/350)

3. You also need to PM me a few specific things:

(i) Your name and address

(ii) Which version (ATX 210/275/350) you want

(iii) How many units you want

(iv) What your voltage requirement is (120v or 230v)

(v) Whether you want (A) 3 x SATA or (B) 2 x SATA + 1 x MOLEX, from the regulators

(vi) Confirm you’re aware of the additional shipping costs that I will tell you later

 

 

Group Buy Closing Date:

November 30th is the closing day. I have a very hectic work schedule from mid-October until the end of November, so during that I time I will do my best answer questions and keep the multiple threads up to date, but I won’t have the time to do the closing admin until then. When work slows down at the end of November I’ll close the Group Buy and finalize all the details with Teradak and let everyone know.

 

Group Buyers List: (as of Sept 22, 2014)

1. Ben-M - Confirmed - 2 units - ATX 350 - ComputerAudiophile.com

2. " "

3. Camel - Confirmed - 2 units - ATX 350 - ComputerAudiophile.com

4. " "

5. Shahed99 - Unconfirmed - 1 unit - ATX 210 - ComputerAudiophile.com

6. Lowlands - Confirmed - 1 unit - ATX 275 - ComputerAudiophile.com

7. Elberoth - Confirmed - 2 units - ATX 275 - ComputerAudiophile.com

8. " "

9. _JL_ - Confirmed - 1 unit - ATX 350 - ComputerAudiophile.com

 

*As I mentioned above, I will open this Group Buy on multiple Audio forums/websites. I will update the Group Buyers List on each forum and list all buyers from all websites on the same list.

 

Please see the previous discussion thread for more details. From page 3, post 73 onward is about the Group Buy.

http://www.computeraudiophile.com/f10-music-servers/teradak-computer-linear-power-supply-17689/index3.html#post351036

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There's a small addition to the PM you need to send me. It's about the size of the back-plate which attaches to your PC that holds the wire loom. This is what the umbilical from the ATX Supply connects to. You can see from the pictures that there are 2 sizes, you have to specify which one you want.

 

Here are the specific measurements. All sizes are in millimeters.

 

Big:

Teradak Linear ATX Supply - backplate - big.jpg

 

Small:

Teradak Linear ATX Supply - backplate - small.jpg

 

 

3. You also need to PM me a few specific things:

(i) Your name and address

(ii) Which version (ATX 210/275/350) you want

(iii) How many units you want

(iv) What your voltage requirement is (120v or 230v)

(v) Whether you want (A) 3 x SATA or (B) 2 x SATA + 1 x MOLEX, from the regulators

(vi) Confirm you’re aware of the additional shipping costs that I will tell you later

(vii) State whether you want the small size or big size back-plate for mounting the DIN connector to your PC.

 

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Do we know much about the actual perfomance of these units? I ask cuz I am on the cusp of ordering two 275's for our group buy, but wanted to ask this loaded question:

* I have a massive Hynes SR7-EHD ps that is dialed up to 19V and powers my audiopc (back end of dual JPLAY setup), basically a CAPS V3 Zuma (except with Asus board). My USB card is JCAT so it is powered internally by 3V PCIE, and my SSD is battery powered. So I am basically using VERY clean Hynes power to go into a 19V $100 PICOPSU, which then dirties everything up and send it out to the other areas of the computer. Would this ATX Teradak improve things, even if its dedicated multiple rails are not quite as theoretically clean as my single rail Hynes?

* And would I be able to get the 3V PCIE power to power my JCAT USB card or does that require a different mobo than what I have (the JCAT is then connected to external 5V from my RW-modded Acopian for DACs that need it, which I assume is not a candidate for the Teradak power)?

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Hi Ben-M,

 

I think we also need to specify the length of the ATX power wires needed inside the PC. I just received my FC10 and I found out the input DC cable of my nano-supply is 2 inches short to reach the back panel mounting position. In my case I'll need a min of 45cm cable length to wire from the back panel to the motherboard ATX power socket.

 

Thanks.

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Do we know much about the actual performance of these units? I ask cuz I am on the cusp of ordering two 275's for our group buy, but wanted to ask this loaded question:

I haven't listened to one myself, and they're quite new. I only heard about them after Teradak released their bigger 800W PSU and I inquired about it powering 2 pf my PCs. These aren't even up on Teradak's website.

 

Besides there being a few comments out there about Teradak's normal L-PSUs imporving sound quality, the only person that I think could give us a good idea is Preproman. He just bought a custom 3 rail unit for his PC setup. It's doing a few different things, but I believe this unit could be configured to do a somewhat similar task. I'll see if he can shed some light on any improvements.

 

And unfortunately we've always got to take the "with my ears, with my gear, in my house, with my power, and with all my other electronics plugged into the same grid" into account. Though I hope for a positive answer, it's hard to gauge given all the other parameters.

 

* I have a massive Hynes SR7-EHD ps that is dialed up to 19V and powers my audiopc (back end of dual JPLAY setup), basically a CAPS V3 Zuma (except with Asus board). My USB card is JCAT so it is powered internally by 3V PCIE, and my SSD is battery powered. So I am basically using VERY clean Hynes power to go into a 19V $100 PICOPSU, which then dirties everything up and send it out to the other areas of the computer. Would this ATX Teradak improve things, even if its dedicated multiple rails are not quite as theoretically clean as my single rail Hynes?

I've always wanted to give a Hynes supply a shot, especially the big $5000 ATX one he makes. I've never managed to hear even one of his more simple ones. I can't say going full ATX Teradak would be better, but I can say that there is no back and forth between a nice linear supply and then a DC-DC switcher.

 

When I was looking at powering my PC I found an HD Plex 250W Audio DC-DC PSU and thought I had my answer. But from my later understanding it's a very good quality, or at least "audio" minded, 250W Pico. When I found that out I steered clear of it. As good as the Hynes might be, I can't see how putting it through a DC-DC switcher is going to be good for the music.

 

* And would I be able to get the 3V PCIE power to power my JCAT USB card or does that require a different mobo than what I have (the JCAT is then connected to external 5V from my RW-modded Acopian for DACs that need it, which I assume is not a candidate for the Teradak power)?

 

The 3.3V PCIe power is just the normal power from the PCIe connection. So as long as you plug the ATX 20+4-pin connector from the Teradak into your mobo socket, this will power your card as usual. Then about the dedicated 5V for the DACs that needed it, actually if you could make a simple MOLEX 4-pin to 2.1mm/5.5mm 1-pin adaptor, you could use just the Teradak to power your whole setup. You could use that +5VSB to either power your JCAT card or power your SSD, either way it's isolated.

 

But, from my understanding of the Acopian and the JCAT USB card, that Acopian is powered from the wall, and the JCAT 5V supply is coming in externally through the 2.1mm/5.5mm connector. The Teradak unit doesn't interfere with either of those at all and you could just keep using it as you have it. Am I understanding that correctly?

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When I was talking to Michael about a month ago, he mentioned that he can customize the back plate size to fit my individual chassis needs. I'm not sure if this applies to the group buy. It'd be great if you can get that info from Michael and update the thread.

 

I'll see what he can do, but I think that's adding a level of complexity to the Group Buy that's not needed.

 

From my understanding those back-plates are for installing into the space that your usual ATX PSU would fit in a standard ATX tower or a compact tower. Though some of us do, most of us don't cases like that. That means that each and every order of these ATX PSUs would need their back-plate cut to different sizes and they wouldn't be able to streamline manufacturing that way.

 

I can ask, but I don't see how it'll work out for us or them. I think most of us are either going to end up unscrewing the base, taking off the back-plate, and tossing it. Or cutting it down to some small, small size.

 

What kind of case are you considering using it with anyway? That might be a good place to start.

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Hi Ben-M,

 

I think we also need to specify the length of the ATX power wires needed inside the PC. I just received my FC10 and I found out the input DC cable of my nano-supply is 2 inches short to reach the back panel mounting position. In my case I'll need a min of 45cm cable length to wire from the back panel to the motherboard ATX power socket.

 

Thanks.

 

So you've finally got 'er in hand, eh Jack? What do you think about it? I was quite impressed with mine :-D

 

And you've asked a very good question. I'll get back to you soon.

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Am I understanding that correctly?

 

Ben-M,

Thanks for the responses. You understood all of it, and subsequently I understand your comments. Yes, re: single rail Hynes to dc-dc, I gotta believe that I'm wasting all that good clean power. What I gotta decide is whether the dc-dc Pico is powering (and dirtying) enough of my music server to care, now that I have battery power to the SSD and Acopian power to the USB signal.

Thx

Ted

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Ben-M,

Thanks for the responses. You understood all of it, and subsequently I understand your comments. Yes, re: single rail Hynes to dc-dc, I gotta believe that I'm wasting all that good clean power. What I gotta decide is whether the dc-dc Pico is powering (and dirtying) enough of my music server to care, now that I have battery power to the SSD and Acopian power to the USB signal.

Thx

Ted

 

Great! Haha, I don't have one of the JCAT cards myself, but I had wanted to get one for a while, so I hoped my understanding of how it worked was right.

 

And a couple people over on Jplay have said that even after powering what they could, finally getting the pico out of the AudioPC completely yielded a benefit. You're active over there too, so I'm sure you've read the same. But just like I said about Preproman and if he replies here, who knows if you or I would hear the difference of doing so in our own gear. I suppose since I've started up this Group Buy I reallllllllly~ hope I hear the difference, and haha, I am damn well going to try to find out :-D

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So you've finally got 'er in hand, eh Jack? What do you think about it? I was quite impressed with mine :-D

 

And you've asked a very good question. I'll get back to you soon.

 

Yes Ben-M, the FC10's build quality is very good and would be at home with any hi-end setups. I was test fitting everything and then found out the short cable issue. The same will also apply to the power cables for HDDs, etc.

 

Interestingly I received the new FC10 Mk.II version which omitted the optical drive slot, changed to a vertical HDD mounting frame, and a new sub-panel for the DC power inlet. This inlet sub-panel is interesting as it is now a standard dimension for a 1U SMPS PS to be installed inside the chassis.

 

This new version is not even on streacom's website yet but there are some photos in taobao - search for "streacom FC10 PRO".

 

Now that the new FC10 inlet sub-panel is 1U standard size if Teradak can build the subpanel according to that dimension it will be perfect!

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Yes Ben-M, the FC10's build quality is very good and would be at home with any hi-end setups. I was test fitting everything and then found out the short cable issue. The same will also apply to the power cables for HDDs, etc.

 

Interestingly I received the new FC10 Mk.II version which omitted the optical drive slot, changed to a vertical HDD mounting frame, and a new sub-panel for the DC power inlet. This inlet sub-panel is interesting as it is now a standard dimension for a 1U SMPS PS to be installed inside the chassis.

 

This new version is not even on streacom's website yet but there are some photos in taobao - search for "streacom FC10 PRO".

 

Now that the new FC10 inlet sub-panel is 1U standard size if Teradak can build the subpanel according to that dimension it will be perfect!

 

Very lucky for you! I just had a look at them on taobao and I'm jealous. You've also got space for another half-width PCIe card in the back. I'd like to have that...

 

And that 1U width subpanel is cool, a great idea for sure. Like I said above, I'll see what Teradak is willing to do, but after the changes that I'd gotten them to make so far, they advised me they weren't going to be making any more changes to our order without cost. And the idea they're pushing for is standardizing, so that they can keep their own costs down. I'll check, anyway :-)

 

Even if they can't, having to only cut their back-plate into a smaller square is child's play. You could do that no-sweat, drill a few holes, and have a perfect connection for your AudioPC.

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Do we know much about the actual perfomance of these units? I ask cuz I am on the cusp of ordering two 275's for our group buy, but wanted to ask this loaded question:

* I have a massive Hynes SR7-EHD ps that is dialed up to 19V and powers my audiopc (back end of dual JPLAY setup), basically a CAPS V3 Zuma (except with Asus board). My USB card is JCAT so it is powered internally by 3V PCIE, and my SSD is battery powered. So I am basically using VERY clean Hynes power to go into a 19V $100 PICOPSU, which then dirties everything up and send it out to the other areas of the computer. Would this ATX Teradak improve things, even if its dedicated multiple rails are not quite as theoretically clean as my single rail Hynes?

* And would I be able to get the 3V PCIE power to power my JCAT USB card or does that require a different mobo than what I have (the JCAT is then connected to external 5V from my RW-modded Acopian for DACs that need it, which I assume is not a candidate for the Teradak power)?

 

Ted,

 

The proof will be in the eating I guess..... &.one cannot listen to all design choises prior...

 

JPlay and TirnaHifi forums do have folks stating... / claiming...

- that the logical upgrade path is [lineair into pico] => [all lineair]. The latter in practice is mostly dumb, requiring DIY and limited mobo selection, but is stated to sound better than with PICO. However, some of these guys are taking it somewhat 'to the edge' for some.

- the (dirty)PCI power is a 'weakness' of the JCAT card (I thought you were on PPA?) and there is talk on modding a PCI riser cable to inject clean power into it... (another DIY way). Do not remember reading anyone actually having done it / results..

 

Assuming the JCAT uses the 3.3 ATX mobo supplied rail without any on-mobo DC/DC regulation in its PCI power feed, you will have your next step on both point with a full lineair ATX supply....

 

You might do the step in the middle.. Buy one for your audio pc en put the big PH supply on the control PC. You might even test swapping that setup, which will give some very valuable information .... (for others also..)?

 

Reg,

Hans

Bits to analog: Server [i9-10850k; Win10Pro, Roon Core + HQPlayer4 >all DSD256x] -> mRendu -> Regen -> Lampi GG

Analog to sound: ASR Emitter II Exclusive, Battery -> Gryphon Mojo S + 2 x REL G2

Details: Audio System

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Hi Ben-M,

 

I think we also need to specify the length of the ATX power wires needed inside the PC. I just received my FC10 and I found out the input DC cable of my nano-supply is 2 inches short to reach the back panel mounting position. In my case I'll need a min of 45cm cable length to wire from the back panel to the motherboard ATX power socket.

 

Thanks.

 

Any case / build will require something different. That is why casemodding exists (go see Youtube, it's a sub-culture).

ATX extender cables of all kinds cost a dime...

Bits to analog: Server [i9-10850k; Win10Pro, Roon Core + HQPlayer4 >all DSD256x] -> mRendu -> Regen -> Lampi GG

Analog to sound: ASR Emitter II Exclusive, Battery -> Gryphon Mojo S + 2 x REL G2

Details: Audio System

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Hans,

thanks. Yes, my controlpc is a smaller Atom-based CAPS V3 Lagoon and I have it powered by a smaller Hynes Sr3-12. Question: will my Asus P8H77-I allow me to bypass the PicoPSu (was a 12V but replaced with 19V PicoPSU and dialed up Hynes SR7 to 19V) and go direct to these specific power connectors on my mobo? What do I look for in my specs/diagram?

 

I have all 3 USB cards (SOtM, PPA and JCat) but find the JCAT to be superior sonically, as well as more flexible (top port unpowered, bottom port powered) for my DAC reviews, etc.

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Hans,

thanks. Yes, my controlpc is a smaller Atom-based CAPS V3 Lagoon and I have it powered by a smaller Hynes Sr3-12. Question: will my Asus P8H77-I allow me to bypass the PicoPSu (was a 12V but replaced with 19V PicoPSU and dialed up Hynes SR7 to 19V) and go direct to these specific power connectors on my mobo? What do I look for in my specs/diagram?

 

I have all 3 USB cards (SOtM, PPA and JCat) but find the JCAT to be superior sonically, as well as more flexible (top port unpowered, bottom port powered) for my DAC reviews, etc.

 

I'm not sure if there's been some progress made on that front, but last I heard it was totally luck of the draw as to whether your motherboard had lax start-up power sequencing or not. And because of that, it's been a trial and error thing. I've noticed that a lot of Gigabyte boards seemed good, though :-)

 

And as for having all 3 USB cards, you're a lucky guy!

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Hey guys, I've had a few users asking about my own build specs, so here they are.

 

After several attempts at different PC source configurations, I have settled on a Dual-PC Jpaly setup. So a Server/Streamer(Control PC) and a Renderer(Audio PC).

 

In the beginning I had been using an Asus Sabertooth Z87, but I've gotten away from that mobo now. It was great, but I agreed with much of what's on the Jplay forums and tried to find a motherboard with "less happening" on it by default. I did still keep the PCIe slots, though :-D

 

The spec outs are slightly different for each.

Control PC:

Case: Streacom - FC10 - black aluminum

Mobo: Intel - S1200v3-RPL

Mobo clock: PPA Studio - Motherboard main clock upgrade (yet to be installed, wish me luck with an SMD mobo...)

CPU: Intel - Xeon v3 - 1240L (low TDP CPU)

Ram: 2x 4GB or 2x 8GB of ECC memory; brand undecided

Ram-2: 2x PPA RAM PSU filters (I don't have much faith, but they were cheap and bought in another order)

SSD: 60Gb or 128GB Samsung 850 Pro

PCIe: Intel - Pro/1000 - Dual port Network Interface Card (just higher quality RJ-45 ports)

PCIe-2: Apexi - PCIe filter card (raved about on xxHighend/Phasure forums)

PSU: Teradak - ATX 275/350 - Linear ATX Supply

Audio PC:

Case: Streacom - FC10 - black aluminum

Mobo: Intel - S1200v3-RPL

Mobo clock: PPA Studio - Motherboard main clock upgrade (yet to be installed, wish me luck with an SMD mobo...)

CPU: Intel - Xeon v3 - 1240L (low TDP CPU)

Ram: 2x 4GB or 2x 8GB of ECC memory; brand undecided

Ram-2: 2x PPA RAM PSU filters (I don't have much faith, but they were cheap and bought in another order)

SSD-OS: PPA Studio - CF as SSD for OS

SSD-programs: 60Gb or 128GB Samsung 850 Pro

PCIe: PPA Studio - USB 3.0 v2

PCIe-2: Intel - PRO/1000 - Dual port Network Interface Card (just higher quality RJ-45 ports)

PCIe-3: Pink Faun - I2s Bridge (PS-Audio style HDMI-I2s output for audio, since I have a PWD-Mkii DAC)

PCIe-4: Apexi - PCIe filter card (raved about on xxHighend/Phasure forums)

PSU: Teradak - ATX 275/350 - Linear ATX Supply

 

Control & Audio PCs connected by Cat7 ethernet with Acoustic Revive RL1-LAN isolator right before AudioPC port.

 

Software:

OS: Microsoft - Windows Server 2012 R2

Programs:

- Audiophil's - Audiophile Optimizer in Core mode

- JRiver Media Centre

- Jplay

 

NAS:

Synology - DS-1513+ (all music and movies are store on here, although I only use the music for this system)

 

Switch:

Netgear - G108t-v2

- gigabit ethernet swtich supporting port teaming for 2 gigabit per second connection from NAS to control PC

- will be powered by an LPSU in the near future

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How are folks thinking of modifying the various Streamcom cases given that there isn't much space on the back panel?

 

WEll, I've got the Original FC10 in black, like here.

STREACOM FC10

 

But the new v2 case has a nice cutout for the power connector. the same space is available on my case, so I'll just have to either figure out how to do it by hand, or just pop it into a machine shop and have them do it professionally. Like this.

STREACOM FC10 PRO FC10

 

Not sure what others are thinking. Any Ideas or input? Why do you ask?

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Group Buyers List: (as of Sept 27, 2014)

1. Ben-M - Confirmed - 2 units - ATX 350 - ComputerAudiophile.com

2. " "

3. Camel - Confirmed - 2 units - ATX 350 - ComputerAudiophile.com

4. " "

5. Shahed99 - Unconfirmed - 1 unit - ATX 210 - ComputerAudiophile.com

6. Lowlands - Confirmed - 1 unit - ATX 275 - ComputerAudiophile.com

7. Elberoth - Confirmed - 2 units - ATX 275 - ComputerAudiophile.com

8. " "

9. _JL_ - Confirmed - 1 unit - ATX 350 - ComputerAudiophile.com

10. fmak- Confirmed - 1 unit - ATX 210 - ComputerAudiophile.com

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Ted: Jesus @ Sonore has a pico type audiophile ATX adapter on his site. It is to accompany their Plex PSs. I have no knowledge beyond that.

Ben-M,

Thanks for the responses. You understood all of it, and subsequently I understand your comments. Yes, re: single rail Hynes to dc-dc, I gotta believe that I'm wasting all that good clean power. What I gotta decide is whether the dc-dc Pico is powering (and dirtying) enough of my music server to care, now that I have battery power to the SSD and Acopian power to the USB signal.

Thx

Ted

Forrest:

Win10 i9 9900KS/GTX1060 HQPlayer4>Win10 NAA

DSD>Pavel's DSC2.6>Bent Audio TAP>

Parasound JC1>"Naked" Quad ESL63/Tannoy PS350B subs<100Hz

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Hi Ben-M,

 

I think we also need to specify the length of the ATX power wires needed inside the PC. I just received my FC10 and I found out the input DC cable of my nano-supply is 2 inches short to reach the back panel mounting position. In my case I'll need a min of 45cm cable length to wire from the back panel to the motherboard ATX power socket.

 

Thanks.

 

Though you can do just what Hans posted about, I got the reply from Teradak and you're in luck.

 

The internal cable lengths are all 50cm.

 

a sidenote: I have watched a few videos about case modding, but I never searched for it specifically. I just searched "case modding" on YouTube like Hans said, and man, there really is a whole sub-culture for it. You guys should check it out, there are some tutorials on it and best practices, might help us out for the back-plate work :-D

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When I was talking to Michael about a month ago, he mentioned that he can customize the back plate size to fit my individual chassis needs. I'm not sure if this applies to the group buy. It'd be great if you can get that info from Michael and update the thread.

 

So I've finally heard back from Michael about this and here's the deal:

 

1. Teradak offers 3 back-plate sizes that they order from their supplier, which are professionally cut with a CNC. The measurements of these pieces are perfect and they'll fit the designed location (ATX, mATX, or SFX) PSUs.

2. Teradak can cut the back-plates down to a specified size, but they're cutting with power tools and doing their best. There will be imperfections if you choose this method. (the dimensions may be millimeters off or not 100%, perfectly square)

2b. If you choose to have Teradak cut your back-plate to a certain size, they will not drill holes in it because there is a 99% chance that between your imprecise measurements and their imprecise measurements, the final product isn't going to line up like you want.

- they recommend that you pick a stock size and then have it cut down by a machine shop, or by yourself where you can see, compare, and line everything up.

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