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bplexcico

The attached is all that I can find in the USB area of my .pdf manual for my Oppo 103.

Alex

 

The BDP-103 is equipped with three USB ports: one on the front panel and two on the back. You may use any

of the available USB ports to plug in a USB drive.

The USB ports are rated to provide a maximum of 5V, 1000mA power to the USB drive. It is sufficient for USB

thumb drives and flash memory card readers, but may not be sufficient for USB hard disks. It is recommended

to check with your drive manufacturer for power requirements, or use an external power supply.

NOTE

This unit supports “USB Mass Storage Class Bulk-Only Transport” devices only. Most USB

thumbs drives, portable hard disk drives and card readers conform to this device class. Other

USB devices such as MP3 players, digital cameras, and mobile phones may not be compatible.

Supported USB drives can be formatted with the FAT (File Allocation Table), FAT32 or NTFS

(New Technology File System) file system.

In some cases, an incompatible USB device may cause the player to stop responding. If this

occurs, simply turn off the power, remove the USB device, and turn the player back on.

The player accesses the USB drive in read-only mode. In order to minimize the risk of data

corruption, it is recommended that you only unplug the USB device when playback is

completely stopped.

 

How a Digital Audio file sounds, or a Digital Video file looks, is governed to a large extent by the Power Supply area. All that Identical Checksums gives is the possibility of REGENERATING the file to close to that of the original file.

PROFILE UPDATED 13-11-2020

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Alex. Yes I saw this online as well, which is what has lead me to believe that the 103 while intended for use with USB drives is not intended for use with a computer connecting to it via USB. Which appears to be the sole provence of the 105.

 

Barr

Silver Circle Audio | Roon | Devialet | Synology | Vivid Audio | Stillpoint Aperture | Auralic | DH Labs

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The Oppo will still be used as my BlueRay player, so it won't be redundant. I simply wanted to include my current equipment for you to know what I have to work with. If the Oppo DAC's are better than (or easier to integrate with the computer) my avr's then great, but I don't know. I have no other ax to grind with that.

 

Your Yamaha AVR uses Burr-Brown 192kHz/24-bit DACS and your OPPO 103 uses Cirrus Logic CS4382A 8-channel 24-bit 192KHz DACs.

The Truth Is Out There

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I'm back into my work week, but I'm game to look into that. Any other input on pluses/minuses of that without anyone getting mad :)

 

There are many ways to setup computer audio. Your Oppo BDP-103 cannot be used as a USB DAC. (I am currently using mine and had the BDP-105 which can be used as a USB DAC in my home for a couple of months when my other USB DAC was in repairs/upgrade so I know.) So as you said, it's about the pluses and minuses for different setups. I think I'll address SoTM music server vs Sonos. Others can chime in on other setups, especially with Synology NAS.

 

For the Vortexbox from SoTM, the downside is that it's much more expensive. Also, if you want to change the setup in the future or you want a feature that SoTM doesn't have, because you're dealing with Linux/Vortexbox, it may be more challenging to make changes, unlike say a PC/Mac setup. And because Vortexbox is automatically ripping CDs for you, if you don't like how it labels all your CD tracks, it is less convenient to change the tagging/labelling/metadata because you're not using your own PC/Mac to rip everything yourself so you can more easily change the tagging/labelling/metadata. The upside is that it's a single box and you just put the CDs in and they are automatically ripped. And truth is, most of the time, you won't need to re-tag the tracks anyway. The sound quality should be very good from SoTM because of their S/PDIF design so in theory, you're feeding your Yamaha with the best low jitter S/PDIF source.

 

For the Sonos setup, I actually probably won't start off with a Synology NAS first. Because that is one of the upsides of using Sonos. You can start just using your existing PC, burn some CDs and then use your current CD as a server for the Sonos to start off with, test things out and figure out how you want to have things setup first. As a result, a Sonos setup can be super cheap, just the cost of the Sonos Bridge and Connect and you're good to go. When you're done, if you're ready to move onto the Synology NAS, you can. If you don't, you save some money and just run everything off your current or future laptop. Sonos is also so popular that whatever new streaming music service becomes available, Sonos is usually pretty responsive in coming up with additions so that you can incorporate them into your system. So if the latest and greatest competitor of say Spotify comes along, it is much more likely that Sonos will have support for it first before Vortexbox/SoTM. And ultimately, as much as I like the iOS/Android apps for Vortexbox systems, the Sonos iOS/Android apps are still better. The downside is that Sonos is not known for the lowest jitter output from S/PDIF so sound quality may not be as good but should still be decent. Sonos is also limited to CD quality (44kHz, 16-bit). So even if you are to purchase higher resolution music downloads, e.g. DSD/SACD files, 24-bit 96kHz or 192kHz music, you'll actually have to convert them back to CD quality first because Sonos will play them back.

 

Ultimately, it comes down to how technically involved you want to become in your computer setup. I personally think that because most of us use PCs/Macs at home and at work, the preferred setup should be more PC/Mac-based because it offers the most flexibility and it's less costly. However, I totally understand that many people don't want to make their music system a make-work computer design project. And I think that's where "simpler" systems like SoTM Vortexbox music server comes in.

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There are many ways to setup computer audio. Your Oppo BDP-103 cannot be used as a USB DAC. (I am currently using mine and had the BDP-105 which can be used as a USB DAC in my home for a couple of months when my other USB DAC was in repairs/upgrade so I know.) So as you said, it's about the pluses and minuses for different setups. I think I'll address SoTM music server vs Sonos. Others can chime in on other setups, especially with Synology NAS.

 

For the Vortexbox from SoTM, the downside is that it's much more expensive. Also, if you want to change the setup in the future or you want a feature that SoTM doesn't have, because you're dealing with Linux/Vortexbox, it may be more challenging to make changes, unlike say a PC/Mac setup. And because Vortexbox is automatically ripping CDs for you, if you don't like how it labels all your CD tracks, it is less convenient to change the tagging/labelling/metadata because you're not using your own PC/Mac to rip everything yourself so you can more easily change the tagging/labelling/metadata. The upside is that it's a single box and you just put the CDs in and they are automatically ripped. And truth is, most of the time, you won't need to re-tag the tracks anyway. The sound quality should be very good from SoTM because of their S/PDIF design so in theory, you're feeding your Yamaha with the best low jitter S/PDIF source.

 

For the Sonos setup, I actually probably won't start off with a Synology NAS first. Because that is one of the upsides of using Sonos. You can start just using your existing PC, burn some CDs and then use your current CD as a server for the Sonos to start off with, test things out and figure out how you want to have things setup first. As a result, a Sonos setup can be super cheap, just the cost of the Sonos Bridge and Connect and you're good to go. When you're done, if you're ready to move onto the Synology NAS, you can. If you don't, you save some money and just run everything off your current or future laptop. Sonos is also so popular that whatever new streaming music service becomes available, Sonos is usually pretty responsive in coming up with additions so that you can incorporate them into your system. So if the latest and greatest competitor of say Spotify comes along, it is much more likely that Sonos will have support for it first before Vortexbox/SoTM. And ultimately, as much as I like the iOS/Android apps for Vortexbox systems, the Sonos iOS/Android apps are still better. The downside is that Sonos is not known for the lowest jitter output from S/PDIF so sound quality may not be as good but should still be decent. Sonos is also limited to CD quality (44kHz, 16-bit). So even if you are to purchase higher resolution music downloads, e.g. DSD/SACD files, 24-bit 96kHz or 192kHz music, you'll actually have to convert them back to CD quality first because Sonos will play them back.

 

Ultimately, it comes down to how technically involved you want to become in your computer setup. I personally think that because most of us use PCs/Macs at home and at work, the preferred setup should be more PC/Mac-based because it offers the most flexibility and it's less costly. However, I totally understand that many people don't want to make their music system a make-work computer design project. And I think that's where "simpler" systems like SoTM Vortexbox music server comes in.

 

 

well said, except if you have a single sonos unit and you hard wire your ethernet, (vs using wifi), you don't need the bridge.

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I do think that both the Sonos and VortexBox are viable approaches, bearing in mind that there are trade-offs associated with just about any approach.

 

Back on the Mac front, I came across this primer article from TAS on setting up a Mac for audio playback and wanted to link to it.

 

--David

Listening Room: Mac mini (Roon Core) > iMac (HQP) > exaSound PlayPoint (as NAA) > exaSound e32 > W4S STP-SE > Benchmark AHB2 > Wilson Sophia Series 2 (Details)

Office: Mac Pro >  AudioQuest DragonFly Red > JBL LSR305

Mobile: iPhone 6S > AudioQuest DragonFly Black > JH Audio JH5

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  • 3 months later...

to continue with some more questions....

 

The laptop i have is giving up the ghost, so to speak, so im researching replacements, and examining my needs for a computer.

The guy at the Apple store made this suggestion, what do you guys think?

 

Mac Mini, with the Fusion 1Tb drive

Install Parallels on it, and get an iPad as the controller for music program, HT system, with iRed transmitter. Apparently this will give me all the functionality I need after the original setup, for which I have a wireless keyboard/mouse and the tv is part of the system where the mini will be, so I can get it set up.

Continuing to us the Yamaha DAC for now, but as $ allows, and as i figure out which DAC i want, i can add that to the mix.

 

For what we've been using the laptop for, the iPad would be more than enough, and I can always use the Mac Mini for 'real' compiu5ing when needed....

 

 

Anyone have experience with Parallels?

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to continue with some more questions....

 

The laptop i have is giving up the ghost, so to speak, so im researching replacements, and examining my needs for a computer.

The guy at the Apple store made this suggestion, what do you guys think?

 

Mac Mini, with the Fusion 1Tb drive

Install Parallels on it, and get an iPad as the controller for music program, HT system, with iRed transmitter. Apparently this will give me all the functionality I need after the original setup, for which I have a wireless keyboard/mouse and the tv is part of the system where the mini will be, so I can get it set up.

Continuing to us the Yamaha DAC for now, but as $ allows, and as i figure out which DAC i want, i can add that to the mix.

 

For what we've been using the laptop for, the iPad would be more than enough, and I can always use the Mac Mini for 'real' compiu5ing when needed....

 

 

Anyone have experience with Parallels?

 

 

***************

 

 

In case it matters, my system is as follows:

 

Yamaha RXA3010 AVR

Oppo 103

Odyssey Stratos 2-channel amp

Aerial 7t mains

 

For HT, which is in the same room, the avr powers PSB Synchrony 2 center, Synchrony S surrounds, and there's a Hsu ULS15 sub, but none of these are in the loop for my serious listeming.

 

 

 

**********

 

 

I have the trial of Jriver media 20 on the computer. My avr finds this on the network, and I can select what to listen to using my avr's remote app on my phone. I can do the same with the Oppo. In each case, I'm using the DAC's in one device or the other.

So you're saying I need to use JRiver as the player 'feeding' the avr, using the remote app for Jriver?

 

I just came home from info-gathering at the apple store....how does this configuration sound:

 

Mac mini connected to the network, and/or a (yet-to-be-determined) outboard DAC per your recommendation here.

A program called Parallels to turn an iPad into the remote to control the Mini and all music files stored on it. IRed transmitter on iPad to make it the 'universal remote' (since my logitech harmony is refusing to work 90% of the time now)

Audirvana or equivalent as the media player on the Mac mini, controlled/accessed from the couch by the iPad.

What about streaming services such as Tidal?

 

The guy at the store said he uses a similar setup for his video work, and saw no reason it wouldn't work for my needs, but obviously this site knows the audio side.

 

Im trying to accomplish the following:

 

Feed my speakers, and thus my ears, with the best quality source without going broke. HDTracks or equivalent.

replace my aging laptop

Keep things as simple to use as possible, but the primary goal being sound quality

Have the ability to upgrade later for SQ purposes without throwing things out. Having said that, I am a buy-once kinda guy. Ill wait a few months to get what I really want rather than get something now knowing I'll need to replace it.

 

 

Any help? Or as clear as mud?

 

Thanks in advance....

 

****

 

Ok, will do, thanks...

 

 

English,

 

I owe you an apology. I advised starting your own thread only to find you already had, but still needed help.

 

It looks like you're on the right track. But now you got me thinking for the first time that using an AVR's internal DAC - at least temporarily as its performance can't compete with most stand-alone DAC's. That aside, I don't see why you couldn't use your computer to manage & play, then sending the bits via ethernet directly to your AVR for D/A conversion. You can get your DAC later, and in the meantime, familiarize yourself with the rest, and ask at least another 10,000 questions along the way;)

 

I really like the idea of using an iPad as your user interface - rave reviews around here when using it in combination with JRemote. With a little luck, I'll be JRemote-ing on a second-hand iPad by Christmas.

 

I wish I could help with your other issues but don't have any experience there.

 

 

Gary

Win10 Sweetwater recording studio PC running JRMC > Soundcraft Ui24r 24-track digital mixer > JBL LSR308 via Magomi Balanced XLR cable pair

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Thanks Gary. Every time I start to think I'm understandin better, I read something that confuses everything again.

 

I think I'm going to get the mini and an ipad, get it all setup, learn it, then change media players, research DAC's, etc, per the article David linked to.

 

Tidal is intriguing me, since the SQ is higher.... headed over to the threads about it to find out more.,,

 

Oh, one more thing,., Fusion Drive, 256SSD, or regular 1tb drive in the mini?

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Thanks Gary. Every time I start to think I'm understandin better, I read something that confuses everything again.

 

I think I'm going to get the mini and an ipad, get it all setup, learn it, then change media players, research DAC's, etc, per the article David linked to.

 

Tidal is intriguing me, since the SQ is higher.... headed over to the threads about it to find out more.,,

 

Oh, one more thing,., Fusion Drive, 256SSD, or regular 1tb drive in the mini?

 

Sorry. Dunno. But I think you'll do well with the mini & iPad.

 

Truth be told, there are many ways to get perfect bits to an amplifier, and that is all we're really doing. But you need to keep those questions coming because everything does matter. Perhaps one day we'll see audiophile-grade computer-based audio systems in one box selling at BestBuy or Costco. Until then, it's a journey getting there and one that can and should be enjoyed. After all, you're surrounded by friendly & smart music lovers like yourself, and it sure feels good to learn something, apply it, and score audible improvements. I try to remember that before pulling the last clump of hair out by the roots. It works sometimes too.

Win10 Sweetwater recording studio PC running JRMC > Soundcraft Ui24r 24-track digital mixer > JBL LSR308 via Magomi Balanced XLR cable pair

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I would go the Fusion drive route which is a combination of a SSD drive and a HD. That will give you better performance on boot times and application launch, et al.

Silver Circle Audio | Roon | Devialet | Synology | Vivid Audio | Stillpoint Aperture | Auralic | DH Labs

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Thanks Gary. Every time I start to think I'm understandin better, I read something that confuses everything again.

 

I think I'm going to get the mini and an ipad, get it all setup, learn it, then change media players, research DAC's, etc, per the article David linked to.

 

Tidal is intriguing me, since the SQ is higher.... headed over to the threads about it to find out more.,,

 

Oh, one more thing,., Fusion Drive, 256SSD, or regular 1tb drive in the mini?

 

WOW!..........I've watched this thread from the sidelines and seen so much information thrown at you without much of a concern for ease of use or functionality!.......The two primary functions of what digital technology can bring to home media entertainment.

 

Hopefully you haven't purchased a computer or iPad yet as I have some ideas or input as to how to go about this. There's some pretty incredible functionality built in to your Yammy AVR and I have a feeling that this system might be the core of a multi media/ home theater AV system?

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WOW!..........I've watched this thread from the sidelines and seen so much information thrown at you without much of a concern for ease of use or functionality!.......The two primary functions of what digital technology can bring to home media entertainment.

 

Hopefully you haven't purchased a computer or iPad yet as I have some ideas or input as to how to go about this. There's some pretty incredible functionality built in to your Yammy AVR and I have a feeling that this system might be the core of a multi media/ home theater AV system?

+1

 

Unfortunately, the majority voice of the computer DAC tetherers of this site appear to have gotten hold of the OP and steared him/her away from the seemingly obvious, cheapest (if not free) and simplest options of at least trying out the Yamaha AVR's and/or the Oppo 103's own decent network streaming and music playback capabilities.

We are far more united and have far more in common with each other than things that divide us.

-- Jo Cox

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I haven't bought anything yet. My trial expired on JRiver, so I haven't played with it much more, but I had everything working:

Laptop connected to Ethernet, AVR and Oppo also connected, and I could use either component's phone app to find and play my music on the laptop through JRiver.

 

That's as far as I got, but it worked, it's just 'clunky'...I had to go through multiple menus on the app to get to the music, and I just wasn't sure how best to streamline it. The laptop is aging and needs replacing, and I'm afraid to load too much music until I have my backup storage in place.

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Oh, and yes, everything is all in one room, double duty as HT, but the sound quality part I care about is two channel. I am also considering a separate 2-channel pre amp to up the performance level from the AVR.

 

At some point during this or another thread, I mentioned YPAO and not trusting its results. I was advised to believe it anyway, so yesterday I ran it again, and it showed every speaker out of phase, so I changed each one, reran YPAO and it 'passed'.

 

Conceivably, once I do start buying storage and media, I suppose having BluRays stored on the drives would be a good option as well, but not critical....

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The problems with speed or clunky operation is you're using the Oppo or Yammy as a DMC or digital media controller which is part of the DNLA protocol. Thankfully both units are certified DMR's or digital media renderer's where the host program in this case JRiver would 'push' media to either unit. You would have the full processing power of whatever computer was running it AND the ability to control it remotely with the awesome JRemote iOS app. In this case, there would be no reason to have to have a PC tethered to your system at all. It could and should be remotely located and media transferred through a wired network.

 

And there's other options as well for an even smoother, more user friendly and stable ecosystem within iTunes using Airplay and either Apple Tvs or Airport Expresses and full control from iPads or iPhones.

 

Neither option requires a Mac or Mac OS as both Jriver and iTunes with Bonjour/Airplay services work extremely well with windows. Of course there's some limitations but whether or not these are truly audible is at best questionable. We can discuss either option and it's limitations further if you like.

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Discuss away! :)

 

I will be replacing my laptop, and either a laptop, or mac mini with ipad seems to make the most sense for our computer needs. To have the media stored somewhere other than at the equipment rack is feasible, and apprently desirable. I would hope to be able to search and buy downloads from the ipad and send them straight to the computer if I don't go with a laptop. I am not a computer guy by any means, but can follow directions:) My internet comes in to the house at the opposite end from my equipment, and running ethernet isn't pratical, so I used WD ac/ethernet adaptors, and then used an old wireless router setup as a bridge to increase wireless comnectivity throughout the house for tablets and phones. I could locate the computer and/or storage drives upstairs and have them send the bits through the ac adaptors to the equipment. Yes, I've read that's not ideal, but I can't run ethernet from the modem to the equipment without major surgery to walls/floors/ceilings.

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I use powerline adapters where needed and can stream 1080p blueray rips with ease so no problems there. I've also used an older netgear router as an access point for additional wifi coverage for pads, phones,etc....works flawlessly as well.

 

So did you like JRiver's Media Center interface is the important question? I think it's great but I also like the Apple Airplay ecosystem as well. Besides complete audio and video streaming capabilities, you can 'push' content from the ipad to your television or AVR. JRiver is very nice and heavily functional......and with lot's of functionality comes a sometimes lack of stability and it takes a bit of learning to get the hang of things. You mentioned your wife using the system so something to consider. IMHO, Airplay is the direction I settled on because of it's stability and it's evolution. There's a new AppleTV in the works that's rumoured to be the be all end all of set top boxes.

 

You'll need to decide before purchasing a machine though as JRiver is more stable on windows than OSX currently. Personally I'd lean towards a windows machine i7 with a solid state boot drive and several 1TB HDDs for data. No need for a server with either ecosystem.

 

Also, is a hidef video library something you'd like to add to the mix?

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sure, I liked it, with nothing really to compare it against... I must admit, stability and ease of use are high priorities for me. With the laptop plugged in to ethernet, and my listening seat 10' + back, I wasnt playing much with it. Just learning how to get the system working with it.

For my wife, I need it set up where she picks up the ipad or equivalent, and pushes one button, and has tv...like the macros on my Logitech 650 that has become tempermental.

Then when she's out and I'm listening to music, I want to be able to see and control my music from the same ipad. I do stream music too, mistly from Pandora since that's what my Oppo and Yammy have built in. Tidal is next on my list since that's better quality, once I find out what I need to get it into the system. I actually like the radio aspect, as sometimes I don't remember everything I have or more importantly, don't have in my library, and its nice to be surprised by a song that comes on.

 

As for video, yes, it would be nice to have a movie library too, especially for the grandkids, which means it would also need to be super easy for the wife to set up for them. Thats definitely lower priority, though.

 

My work week restarts tomorrow, so I may not be as quick to respond, but I will get replies on the phone ap, so feel free....

 

Now back to DSOTM at stupid levels :).

 

Oh, another question. My AVR lists a maximum line level output of 1V, my amp has a max input of 1.5. Is this something I should consider when looking at separate pre amps (another angle I'm pursuing for sound quality bump)?

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Honestly, i don't see a need for an external preamp at all, the Yammy will do just fine. There's so many more important things to concern yourself with when SQ is priority. 99% of what you hear and perceive is the speaker system and how it interacts with your room, Everything and i do mean everything else is small signal worthiness and accounts for an extreme amount of dimished returns for tweeks, upgrades and additions. Your DAC in the 3010 is also quite capable so i wouldn't make stand alone DACs a priority at this stage of the game. Lets get the BIG stones in the basket first, and fill the voids with sand later!

 

Is your listening position/seat against a wall?

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Understood. The DACs in the Yamaha are Burr Brown, but I don't know which ones. The pre amp section isn't the best though, so while your point is taken, knowing that's an area that will change may impact recommendations made now (?)

 

My speakers are +/- 6' apart, about 3 1/2' from the front wall, 8 1/2' from my seat, and the rear wall is +/- 2 1/2' behind my head. The room is very live, wood floor with 2 layers of underlayment, sheetrock walls/ceilings, 2 windows on one long wall. Area rug forthcoming :)

 

Attached pic from my seat for reference. It is my living room too:)

1418344417365.jpg

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Nice room!

 

Get an area rug! Lol

 

Don't get caught up in the whole golden triangle thing.......its complete and utter nonsense. Position the speakers where they sound best to you but be symmetrical in your approach....equal distances to boundaries and the listener.....WHATEVER those distances might be. Deal with first reflection points first. The biggest and closest is ALWAYS the floor.

 

When the Xmas tree is out away, have someone move a mirror along the side walls while you look straight ahead. When you can see yourself in the mirror, mark the spot and treat the area if possible. Printed canvas art reproductions are available with 1" deep frames that can be filled with Roxul from behind and make for excellent, decorative treatments. Windows need some absorbing treatments or one side of the room will be brighter and louder than the other. Certainly treat the wall behind you if possible as well.

 

My area of expertise is speakers and acoustics. I worked as a live sound engineer for nearly 22 years as well as studio musician and designed and built quite a few commercial fixed installations. I've since retired from that venture and design HIFI speakers as a hobby.

 

Now not being critical BUT speaker systems like yours are very old world thinking and engineering. Conventional drivers and this type of alignment are designed to radiate sound equally in all directions and do so to 120 degrees off axis and more. They include absolutely NO measure of constant directivity whatsoever. This means that they simply illuminate the entire room and boundaries with sound so the result is loaded with unwanted reflections, time domain smearing and cancellations and boosted modes. The WORST of these happen right in front of the speaker where the wavelengths of competing drivers collide and their phases interact and form what is known as lobes. It is these froward radiating lobes that reach you first and their response is NOTHING like the measured nearfield response of the speaker. Systems like these/yours demand DSP processing and mechanical treatment. Place them in a large space far from boundaries and they sound great in the midfield......move to farfield or place them in a small room and all hell breaks loose! Lol

 

Take some time to research the topic of Constant Directivity in loudspeaker systems. There's simply too much to discuss here but quickly you'll find that it's the primary engineering focus of commercial and professional audio today....the industry that's driven by real world demands and where the real world R&D happens. It will become readily apparent to you that today's HiFi companies are driving woody station wagons while JBL, Renkus, Meyer and others are flying in hovercrafts. It truly is that much of a disparity.

 

And again.......I really don't think you'll realize any appreciable improvement in SQ with a preamp. Instead, try and find a dealer or studio that has a pair of JBL M2 monitors that you might be able to listen to for a bit. You'll be surprised about what you thought you knew about audio in the site of a song or too. I'm not saying you need to go to that extreme at home, but it will give you an idea of what constant directivity systems are capable of.

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I have heard the mirror thing before, and a rug is definitely planned for! What about the height of the proposed art for the walls? I'm assuming the worst reflections sonically are those at/about ear level, which would be odd-looking to say the least.

 

Maybe I'll save the other research for after I get CA up and running:) Old World or not, these are going to be my speakers for a while since I've only had them a few months, and really like the way they sound and image. The rabbit holes of this hobby are steep, and I'd prefer to avoid bunny trails as well, if you'll forgive the metaphor-mixing;)

 

Ok, so no preamp for now...

 

We need a new computer, and a laptop or iPad fits our needs in that department. I like the idea of a Mac mini storing everything (yes, with backup storage too), with an iPad as a remote interface for it. I'm not wedded to Mac vs PC though, if a PC would provide equal function and performance. Comparing my iPhone to previous droid units, the iPhone has been far more reliable and stable, and that's really important to me. If the comparison in the world of computers is the same, then I'd prefer Mac.

 

So far I've conceptually built a system with a Mac mini, 1tb fusion drive, and iPad. The next consideration will be the software to get the function I want. Apps to put on the iPad for super-simple operation of the Oppo and DirecTv by my wife, and access to all stored media and streaming services for me when I want to listen to the good stuff.

 

For now I'm being advised that the Yamaha AVR has sufficient-quality DACs to obviate the need for an outboard DAC. The idea being to get things going operationally, then tweak and improve SQ in stages, I assume. Room tuning will of course go a very long way towards improving sound quality as well.

 

So back to the computer, et al.....

Software suggestions for the Mac system proposed?

Alternative PC systems with their appropriate software?

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Sounds good......we'll focus on the PC and tablet.

 

The iPad is the way to go no doubt. It's sturdy, the most development and support and works with either ecosystem. We use a full size and a mini here as well as iPhones.

 

The Mac Mini is a great machine. Some people at work run parallels to have the functionality of their favorite windows software.

 

I have an extensive HD video library so my recommendation is biased towards a Windows PC. There's simply more native support for Bluray ripping and encoding. If you decide on JRiver, the windows version is more developed and stable and does video as well. An iTunes Airplay environment will run equally well on either windows or OSX.

 

My machine is basically an iTunes server and I like the PC tower format for easy maintenance and upgrades. I like having everything in one box too.....the Bluray drive and multiple HDDs. I interface them all SATA for the fastest data transfer speeds. I like the fact that the PC format allows for more air space and cooling methods. I find the mini to be an ergonomic space saving option for those that need it. Otherwise, the PC wins on almost every front.

 

Most everyone knows someone close who's an IT professional or IT savvy enough to assemble a machine for you. This is the direction I would take. Mine is in my home office and it serves up iTunes audio and video to 7 zones in our home. I use it for my speaker design software and graphics for marketing at work. Some important motherboard features to keep current and to work as a home AV server would be Gigabit Ethernet, 1150 CPU socket and WakeOn LAN capable.

 

As to your speakers, please don't think I believe you should replace them.....not the case at all. But instead, I offer the information to make it clear the importance of dealing with their radiation characteristics through DSP and mechanical room treatments.

 

There's some excellent ethernet based control apps out there........but that's too much for now, just important to know that full function tablet control is available when you're ready. My wife prefers her button remote and hold her Logitech hostage!

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Ok great, so you'd recommend a build-my-own PC? I have friends at work who are more than capable of that, so I'd be covered there in terms of hardware. I can locate it outside the listening room since that seems preferable as well. Will the AC/Ethernet adaptors I'm using transfer the bits cleanly enough? For audio and potentially video?

 

Point taken on the speaker/room tuning. I do know I need to address that....later:)

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