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Or maybe it depends on how much you dig hyperbole.

 

--David

 

If you believe that obtaining SQ well in excess of that from a typical CD player is exaggeration, then perhaps you shouldn't be advising others how to obtain a mediocre system like your own ?

Have you even read any of the threads with long names by Superdad (alex C ) that illustrate the vast improvements that can be obtained via computer audio from a tweaked Mac Mini ? The resulting performance is well in excess of that from a typical "spinner"

However, for those like Kumahama that are unable to appreciate the difference, then by all means settle for whatever meets your requirements. We need to remember here, that others also read these threads whose requirements may be slightly different to that of the OP and Kumakama. It's up to them to decide which way they decide to proceed after taking aboard all posted suggestions.

 

How a Digital Audio file sounds, or a Digital Video file looks, is governed to a large extent by the Power Supply area. All that Identical Checksums gives is the possibility of REGENERATING the file to close to that of the original file.

PROFILE UPDATED 13-11-2020

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If you believe that obtaining SQ well in excess of that from a typical CD player is exaggeration, then perhaps you shouldn't be advising others how to obtain a mediocre system like your own ?

 

Possibly, but at least I'm trying to heed what the OP is saying and help him figure out the direction he wants to go. Can you explain how ad hominem attacks and technical info that is beyond what the OP currently has the context to make sense of are of value in this discussion?

 

[There was more, but here's where years of editorial experience pay off.]

 

--David

Listening Room: Mac mini (Roon Core) > iMac (HQP) > exaSound PlayPoint (as NAA) > exaSound e32 > W4S STP-SE > Benchmark AHB2 > Wilson Sophia Series 2 (Details)

Office: Mac Pro >  AudioQuest DragonFly Red > JBL LSR305

Mobile: iPhone 6S > AudioQuest DragonFly Black > JH Audio JH5

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Possibly, but at least I'm trying to heed what the OP is saying and help him figure out the direction he wants to go. Can you explain how ad hominem attacks and technical info that is beyond what the OP currently has the context to make sense of are of value in this discussion?

 

[There was more, but here's where years of editorial experience pay off.]

 

--David

 

+1

 

Thanks for expressing my thoughts much more eloquently than I could.

Sometimes it's like someone took a knife, baby
Edgy and dull and cut a six inch valley
Through the middle of my skull

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However, for those like Kumahama that are unable to appreciate the difference, then by all means settle for whatever meets your requirements. We need to remember here, that others also read these threads whose requirements may be slightly different to that of the OP and Kumakama. It's up to them to decide which way they decide to proceed after taking aboard all posted suggestions.

 

It is "kumakuma", not "kumahama" or "kumakama". If you are going to insult me, then at least get my name right.

Sometimes it's like someone took a knife, baby
Edgy and dull and cut a six inch valley
Through the middle of my skull

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That seems to be the case, with the possibility of using the tv as the monitor(?) Then I can have any streaming services I use on the 'desktop', sent directly into the AVR, as well as navigating my stored library from my 'sweet spot'. As I succumb to upgraditis, I can add/adjust/upgrade components to scratch the itch...

Correct?

 

If your receiver is connected to the TV via HMDI or if your TV has an extra HDMI input you can connect the Mac Mini to the TV via HDMI.

 

Here's a less expensive, easy to use configuration that will also work well given you system:

 

$800 for the Mac Mini below.

 

DH Labs USB cable - 1 meter $70

JRIVER Music Software (eliminates need for iTunes, and you playback files from here) - $50

 

Cost - $900

Assumption your TV accepts HDMI input for Mac Mini.

If you don't have a spare USB keyboard and mouse to plug into Mac Mini nor a Bluetooth keyboard and mouse, then add in another $100 ( or less if non Apple Branded )

 

So back to $1000.

 

You have a one terabyte drive to start with. Over time based on needs, tweaking desires, etc.. you can a SSD drive later, more memory later, and external HD later. An iPAD later to use screen sharing to control the Mac Mini (eliminate Mouse and Keyboard and even having to plug the Mac Mini into TV) And you could add JREMOTE to control JRIVER and playback the music. If you want a better USB cable you can add it over time, if you want a better power supply you can add it over time.

 

With a one terabyte drive you could store at least 850 ripped CDS on there.

 

And I concur with the recommendation of XLD to rip the CDS. Or download the albums you want from any of the various sites.

 

Not a PC person, so I don't have a recommendation there, but I am sure others can provide one.

 

 

2.3GHz Mac mini

 

Specifications

 

 

  • 2.3GHz quad-core Intel Core i7
  • 4GB memory
  • 1TB hard drive1
  • Intel HD Graphics 4000
  • OS X Mavericks

Silver Circle Audio | Roon | Devialet | Synology | Vivid Audio | Stillpoint Aperture | Auralic | DH Labs

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It depends on whether you are willing to settle for similar, or slightly disappointing SQ to that from a mass produced CD player for the sake of convenience and piped "Muzac" throughout the house, or well above the SQ from any affordable CD player as many members here have been able to achieve..

 

Huh? I'm looking to build the basics here, simply, and without SQ sacrifices, but within my very limited technical abilities. I do understand that the two aren't totally compatible, and SQ improvements will require me getting my hands dirty...

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Possibly, but at least I'm trying to heed what the OP is saying and help him figure out the direction he wants to go. Can you explain how ad hominem attacks and technical info that is beyond what the OP currently has the context to make sense of are of value in this discussion?

 

[There was more, but here's where years of editorial experience pay off.]

 

--David

 

You conveniently ignored this part of my reply due to years of editorial experience paying off.

 

We need to remember here, that others also read these threads whose requirements may be slightly different to that of the OP and Kumakuma. It's up to them to decide which way they decide to proceed after taking aboard all posted suggestions.

 

How a Digital Audio file sounds, or a Digital Video file looks, is governed to a large extent by the Power Supply area. All that Identical Checksums gives is the possibility of REGENERATING the file to close to that of the original file.

PROFILE UPDATED 13-11-2020

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Possibly, but at least I'm trying to heed what the OP is saying and help him figure out the direction he wants to go. Can you explain how ad hominem attacks and technical info that is beyond what the OP currently has the context to make sense of are of value in this discussion?

 

[There was more, but here's where years of editorial experience pay off.]

 

--David

 

David, as an example of my lack of knowledge, I didn't understand what he said, except to pick up on it being derogatory somehow. I do know that there are levels of SQ available, just as with speakers - we do agree on that, right? - that speakers, despite their varying complexities in placement, can be a way to improve SQ? - and that I'm opening a Pandora's box by getting into computer audio. I get that. What I'm hoping is to minimize wasted $ and time by getting the basics right so as I learn, I can upgrade what I have without finding out I have to throw away what I have and start over

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Oh sorry for being less than clear, you use HMDI for video out from Mac to TV (or receiver with assumption receiver is hooked up to TV via HDMI as well). You use USB connection from mac Mini to the OPPO for audio playback (Oppo acting as a DAC in this case).

 

However I hope someone can correct me here, I assumed one can use the OPPO 103 as a DAC and feed it music directly from an application such as JRIVER via the USB port, is this possible on the model 103?

Silver Circle Audio | Roon | Devialet | Synology | Vivid Audio | Stillpoint Aperture | Auralic | DH Labs

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You conveniently ignored this part of my reply due to years of editorial experience paying off.

 

I can't for the life of me figure out what you mean or why name is in bold.

Sometimes it's like someone took a knife, baby
Edgy and dull and cut a six inch valley
Through the middle of my skull

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Huh? I'm looking to build the basics here, simply, and without SQ sacrifices, but within my very limited technical abilities. I do understand that the two aren't totally compatible, and SQ improvements will require me getting my hands dirty...

 

Why not try my suggestion of ripping a couple of your favourite tracks directly to a USB memory stick, and see if you hear any improvement ? If not, then proceed with your original plan secure in the knowledge that SQ still meets your expectations.

 

How a Digital Audio file sounds, or a Digital Video file looks, is governed to a large extent by the Power Supply area. All that Identical Checksums gives is the possibility of REGENERATING the file to close to that of the original file.

PROFILE UPDATED 13-11-2020

Link to comment
If your receiver is connected to the TV via HMDI or if your TV has an extra HDMI input you can connect the Mac Mini to the TV via HDMI.

 

Here's a less expensive, easy to use configuration that will also work well given you system:

 

$800 for the Mac Mini below.

 

DH Labs USB cable - 1 meter $70

JRIVER Music Software (eliminates need for iTunes, and you playback files from here) - $50

 

Cost - $900

Assumption your TV accepts HDMI input for Mac Mini.

If you don't have a spare USB keyboard and mouse to plug into Mac Mini nor a Bluetooth keyboard and mouse, then add in another $100 ( or less if non Apple Branded )

 

So back to $1000.

 

You have a one terabyte drive to start with. Over time based on needs, tweaking desires, etc.. you can a SSD drive later, more memory later, and external HD later. An iPAD later to use screen sharing to control the Mac Mini (eliminate Mouse and Keyboard and even having to plug the Mac Mini into TV) And you could add JREMOTE to control JRIVER and playback the music. If you want a better USB cable you can add it over time, if you want a better power supply you can add it over time.

 

With a one terabyte drive you could store at least 850 ripped CDS on there.

 

And I concur with the recommendation of XLD to rip the CDS. Or download the albums you want from any of the various sites.

 

Not a PC person, so I don't have a recommendation there, but I am sure others can provide one.

 

 

2.3GHz Mac mini

 

Specifications

 

 

  • 2.3GHz quad-core Intel Core i7
  • 4GB memory
  • 1TB hard drive1
  • Intel HD Graphics 4000
  • OS X Mavericks

 

This makes sense.... And it seems to meet my requirements of 'the basics' that I can build on. A previous suggestion included upgrading the 4GB of memory to 16. What does that improve? Access speed for the files? What is the consensus on the 'need' for that? Is it necessary up front, and/or is it doable later.

 

Also, I'll need to load my current discs, so can I plug my Oppo into the Mac mini, or do I need a drive for that?

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Oh sorry for being less than clear, you use HMDI for video out from Mac to TV (or receiver with assumption receiver is hooked up to TV via HDMI as well). You use USB connection from mac Mini to the OPPO for audio playback (Oppo acting as a DAC in this case).

 

However I hope someone can correct me here, I assumed one can use the OPPO 103 as a DAC and feed it music directly from an application such as JRIVER via the USB port, is this possible on the model 103?

I'Il check with Oppo on using the DAC, but I think I can, I think I can..:)

Yes, TV is connected to AVR with HDMI, and I have more HDMI inputs available.

What about daisy-chaining...the Oppo is hooked up to the AVR with HDMI, can I plug the Mac mini into the Oppo, and just have one connection, or do I need both?

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Why not try my suggestion of ripping a couple of your favourite tracks directly to a USB memory stick, and see if you hear any improvement ? If not, then proceed with your original plan secure in the knowledge that SQ still meets your expectations.

I'm open to that...how reliant am I on the SQ of the DAC in the old laptop I have not degrading what gets into the memory stick, and what about the memory stick itself, what kind do I get, does it matter? Or am I not using the DAC in the laptop, but the one in the Oppo during playback?

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OK I think I owe you an apology for bad guidance, while all of the above will work fine with an OPPO 105, I don't think this will work (or at least now I am unsure) with a BPD 103. OPPO talks about the USB input (synch) on the BPS 105 which supports audio input from a computer, but does not mention that capability for the 103.

 

Which if true means one option is the 103 can stream music from a DLNA server (such as a NAS with music server software) or indeed a Mac Mini for example running JRIVER as a DLNA server feeding the 103.

 

So that being said, if true that you cannot directly send music via the USB port from a computer to the OPPO 103, the answer changes a bit. Meaning I need to think about it more. As I think buying a Mac Mini to use as a DLNA server to stream music to the Oppo 103 would be overkill.

 

Back later.

Silver Circle Audio | Roon | Devialet | Synology | Vivid Audio | Stillpoint Aperture | Auralic | DH Labs

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I'Il check with Oppo on using the DAC, but I think I can, I think I can..:)

snip, snip

 

Yes check with them first before we proceed further and someone such as myself sends you too far down the wrong path...

 

Barr

Silver Circle Audio | Roon | Devialet | Synology | Vivid Audio | Stillpoint Aperture | Auralic | DH Labs

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A previous suggestion included upgrading the 4GB of memory to 16. What does that improve? Access speed for the files? What is the consensus on the 'need' for that? Is it necessary up front, and/or is it doable later.

 

More memory is generally better, especially with high rez files, as many software players allow you to load the entire song into memory before playing. 4GB might be enough if you are just playing music ripped from CDs and not running other applications on the computer while playing music.

 

I think all of the current Mac Minis allow the user to add more memory themselves. Some of the current laptops (Macbook Pros and Macbook Airs) have soldered-in memory and can't easily be upgraded.

Sometimes it's like someone took a knife, baby
Edgy and dull and cut a six inch valley
Through the middle of my skull

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I'm open to that...how reliant am I on the SQ of the DAC in the old laptop I have not degrading what gets into the memory stick, and what about the memory stick itself, what kind do I get, does it matter? Or am I not using the DAC in the laptop, but the one in the Oppo during playback?

 

You are simply extracting the binary contents of the CD to USB memory. Any USB memory stick should work perfectly well with normal CD. Some USB memory doesn't work well when playing downloaded 24/192 material though.

The analogue output of the Oppo 103 is actually quite good, although coax SPDIF from the Oppo can be used to feed an even higher quality DAC. Surprisingly, when used as a simple CD/DVD player the Oppo 103 will outperform many earlier respected CD/DVD players.

BTW, I agree with Kumakuma's previous reply about memory requirements.

 

How a Digital Audio file sounds, or a Digital Video file looks, is governed to a large extent by the Power Supply area. All that Identical Checksums gives is the possibility of REGENERATING the file to close to that of the original file.

PROFILE UPDATED 13-11-2020

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...is HDMI a better/worse connection to the AVR than USB or Toslink

 

Sorry I overlooked this. HDMI is certainly a viable option. You might want to compare it with TOSlink and decide which sounds better to you.

 

--David

Listening Room: Mac mini (Roon Core) > iMac (HQP) > exaSound PlayPoint (as NAA) > exaSound e32 > W4S STP-SE > Benchmark AHB2 > Wilson Sophia Series 2 (Details)

Office: Mac Pro >  AudioQuest DragonFly Red > JBL LSR305

Mobile: iPhone 6S > AudioQuest DragonFly Black > JH Audio JH5

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OK I think I owe you an apology for bad guidance, while all of the above will work fine with an OPPO 105, I don't think this will work (or at least now I am unsure) with a BPD 103. OPPO talks about the USB input (synch) on the BPS 105 which supports audio input from a computer, but does not mention that capability for the 103.

 

Which if true means one option is the 103 can stream music from a DLNA server (such as a NAS with music server software) or indeed a Mac Mini for example running JRIVER as a DLNA server feeding the 103.

 

So that being said, if true that you cannot directly send music via the USB port from a computer to the OPPO 103, the answer changes a bit. Meaning I need to think about it more. As I think buying a Mac Mini to use as a DLNA server to stream music to the Oppo 103 would be overkill.

 

Back later.

I also have the AVR DAC I can use, right? It's a yamaha RXA3010...

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OK I think I owe you an apology for bad guidance, while all of the above will work fine with an OPPO 105, I don't think this will work (or at least now I am unsure) with a BPD 103. OPPO talks about the USB input (synch) on the BPS 105 which supports audio input from a computer, but does not mention that capability for the 103.

 

Which if true means one option is the 103 can stream music from a DLNA server (such as a NAS with music server software) or indeed a Mac Mini for example running JRIVER as a DLNA server feeding the 103.

 

So that being said, if true that you cannot directly send music via the USB port from a computer to the OPPO 103, the answer changes a bit. Meaning I need to think about it more. As I think buying a Mac Mini to use as a DLNA server to stream music to the Oppo 103 would be overkill.

 

Back later.

 

That is the reason why I suggested plugging USB memory, or a USB HDD with the music files in their folders on it, directly into the Oppo 103. Given the asking price, an Oppo 103 is a fine player.

 

How a Digital Audio file sounds, or a Digital Video file looks, is governed to a large extent by the Power Supply area. All that Identical Checksums gives is the possibility of REGENERATING the file to close to that of the original file.

PROFILE UPDATED 13-11-2020

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I do know that there are levels of SQ available, just as with speakers - we do agree on that, right? - that speakers, despite their varying complexities in placement, can be a way to improve SQ?

 

Yes, speakers make perhaps the biggest difference, and you're very well set up there. Any other component can be upgraded, and it can have an effect on SQ. The issue, as I see it, is putting together a system, over time, that you're happy with while still being able to enjoy music during the process. There's a tendency, while in the throes of this, to spend one's time listening to the hardware rather than to the music.

 

What I'm hoping is to minimize wasted $ and time by getting the basics right so as I learn, I can upgrade what I have without finding out I have to throw away what I have and start over

 

Absolutely. I think the more specific suggestions others have offered are very good. If I were in your shoes I'd certainly get an i7-based mini with 8GB RAM (which is easy to install yourself if you want to save a little money) and an internal solid-state drive (which is not impossible to install yourself but considerably less easy, IMO). Again, I'm not ruling out other options, but I don't think you'll go far wrong or regret having gone with this as a starting point. If you go down this road, Audirvana and JRiver (and others) offer free trials, so you can have a basis for choosing the playback software you prefer.

 

--David

Listening Room: Mac mini (Roon Core) > iMac (HQP) > exaSound PlayPoint (as NAA) > exaSound e32 > W4S STP-SE > Benchmark AHB2 > Wilson Sophia Series 2 (Details)

Office: Mac Pro >  AudioQuest DragonFly Red > JBL LSR305

Mobile: iPhone 6S > AudioQuest DragonFly Black > JH Audio JH5

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Hi sandyk - With all due respect, you're hurting this thread far more than helping. Some of your points are valid, but unwarranted in this context. My daughter wants shoes with velcro rather than laces. This velcro may wear out over the course of a decade, but chances are much better my daughter won't wear these shoes long enough to wear out the velcro. If she does we will cross that bridge. The same can be said for this thread and the OP's plans. If he ever gets to your level, he knows who to contact.

 

Please try stepping away from this thread and let others feel the enjoyment of helping someone who is in the pace they once were. Thanks sandyk.

Founder of Audiophile Style | My Audio Systems AudiophileStyleStickerWhite2.0.png AudiophileStyleStickerWhite7.1.4.png

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Chris

The proposed solutions leave the OPs Oppo 103 right out of the equation. I doubt that the OP would wish to have it made redundant.

What will he then use for a DAC with similar high performance ?

Alex

 

How a Digital Audio file sounds, or a Digital Video file looks, is governed to a large extent by the Power Supply area. All that Identical Checksums gives is the possibility of REGENERATING the file to close to that of the original file.

PROFILE UPDATED 13-11-2020

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