Jump to content
IGNORED

UpTone JS-2 Power Supply Listening Impressions


Recommended Posts

With the 2.5mm on both ends you can swap the direction of the cable if you desire.  With a 2.1mm on one end you can’t.  Begs the question can anybody say if cable direction, I.e. direction of current flow, is important or audible when direct current is involved?

Denafrips Terminator + DAC fed by a Denafrips GAIA DDC, HTPC running JRiver MC, iFi PRO iCAN Signature headphone amp, Marantz AV8805, OPPO BDP-105 for SACD ripping, Sony UBP-X100ES for watching and listening, McIntosh MC1201s Front L/R with Bryston powering the remaining 5 channels, B&W N-801s, B&W HTM-1 in Tiger Eye, B&W 801 IIIs on the sides and in the rear, JL-F212 sub, ReVOX PR-99Mk II, Rega P10 and Alpheta 3, PS Audio Nuwave Phono Amp, Audeze LCD-4 and LCD-XC, UE18 IEMs, Sony CD3000 rebuilt, Sony VPL-VW995ES laser projector, Joe Kane Affinity 120" screen, Cables: Cardas Clear Beyond speaker, Wireworld Platinum Elite 7 RCA, custom (by me) XLRs using affordable, quality parts 🙂

Link to comment

Thanks Alex.  I received it today and connected it immediately.  It seems to be better on great recordings like Patricia Barber, etc. but I need to take care of some other things first.  My system is so quiet that I hear other things that annoy me, like refrigerator hum for example.  Who needs a fridge anyway!  I’ve got some stuff coming to address that.  

Link to comment
  • 7 months later...

Hallo, I now have my JS-2 connected to the router and to an English Electric 8Switch. Because the switch is a new addition, I can't quite comment on how big the improvement is with the JS-2, but the sound is both detailed and smooth, with a "black" background. I currently use very cheap DC cables, and I'm looking forward to replacing them with something better. I'm sure my current DC cables are crap, as the sound changes even when I touch them. I would also welcome any comments from people who have tried some more upmarket power cables with the JS-2. I currently use a Shunyata Venom HC, but I have a suspicion there's room for improvement here as well. Of course, the differences may be small judging by the amount of extra cash one would have to lay out, but in hi-end audio, such small differences are often worth it, I'm afraid...

Link to comment

Yesterday I installed 2 DC cables I rceived with the JS-2, and there was a considerable improvement over the stock cables I used for my switch and router. Today I have place an order for one Sapphire cable, hoping for further improvement. I'm wondering if I should replace the switch cable or the router cable first... Probably I should have ordered two cables :)

Link to comment
  • 2 weeks later...

I have received two SAPPHIRE DC cables to connect my JS-2 to my switch and router. The JS-2 was already excellent without any special cables but the SAPPHIRE have further improved the sound. I can hear the cables have not settled yet completely, though. At times they are a bit bright and the bass is deep but a little bloated. Every new cable in my system needed time to sound its best, and I'm sure the SAPPHIRE are no exception, especially considering the teflon dielectric. Anyways, I have now experienced the "Alex service", which includes a warm personal touch. One just wants to keep buying :) I'm now thinking of an Etherregen, once it becomes available. Many thanks, Alex, it's a pleasure buying from you.

Link to comment
  • 4 months later...

My JS2 can't turn on this morning (the Led is off), I have checked the fuse and it was blow out, replaced with a new one, but can't turn on.

 

Anything I can do before I send it for service ?

B&W 800 Diamond D2, Goldmund Eidos Reference CD, Goldmund Telos 600, Goldmund Mimesis 32, Cello Audio Palette MIV.[br]MacBook Pro, LIO, Mytek 192, HD800, Luxman SQ-38U, Luxman MQ-88u

Link to comment

Did the replacement fuse blow a second time?  If you disconnect the load(s) does the power supply still not work?  As there are "no user serviceable parts inside" it will probably have to go back.

Denafrips Terminator + DAC fed by a Denafrips GAIA DDC, HTPC running JRiver MC, iFi PRO iCAN Signature headphone amp, Marantz AV8805, OPPO BDP-105 for SACD ripping, Sony UBP-X100ES for watching and listening, McIntosh MC1201s Front L/R with Bryston powering the remaining 5 channels, B&W N-801s, B&W HTM-1 in Tiger Eye, B&W 801 IIIs on the sides and in the rear, JL-F212 sub, ReVOX PR-99Mk II, Rega P10 and Alpheta 3, PS Audio Nuwave Phono Amp, Audeze LCD-4 and LCD-XC, UE18 IEMs, Sony CD3000 rebuilt, Sony VPL-VW995ES laser projector, Joe Kane Affinity 120" screen, Cables: Cardas Clear Beyond speaker, Wireworld Platinum Elite 7 RCA, custom (by me) XLRs using affordable, quality parts 🙂

Link to comment
18 hours ago, mitch751 said:

My JS2 can't turn on this morning (the Led is off), I have checked the fuse and it was blow out, replaced with a new one, but can't turn on.

 

Anything I can do before I send it for service ?

 

Actual JS-2 failure is extremely rare. And for it to continuously blow fuses would mean that either its big R-core transformer has a short or the large inductor/choke failed. Out of nearly 1,800 units in the field I've only ever seen each of those once.

 

Most likely you blew a fuse--either at turn on with a big inrush current, or from some mains surge--and when you replaced the fuse one of three things occurred:

1) Perhaps you did not use a slow-blow fuse for the replacement;

2) Perhaps you are using a small Euro size fuse and placed it incorrectly in the fuseblock (not uncommon);

3) Perhaps the special metal jumper clip--that must be in place on the opposite side from the fuse--fell off or you moved it to the other side;

4) Perhaps you reinstalled the fuseblock with not the correct voltage showing in the window of the cover door.

 

Please refer to the attached photos for positioning of the fuse and the jumper clip. Look at the clip and fuse in relation to the 115V/230V markings. And if you are using a small Euro size fuse (the block accepts either that size or the full size 3AG "American" size), bet sure that you have placed it correctly fore-aft.

 

IMG_0713.thumb.JPG.45dbb106ffd6dc1f45b450f1be97fd88.JPG

IMG_0712.thumb.JPG.4082382f500f45c1edfd510f89caaf87.JPG

Link to comment

Thank you the reply.

 

Let me explained with more details, one morning last week I found that my SOtM streamer (charged by JS2) could not turn on.

 

I checked the JS2 front LED (orange) was ON, I unplug the ac power and took off the fuse and realised it was blew.

 

I replaced with the same specification of fuse, but this time JS2 could not turn on and the LED was off.

 

To make sure the I reinstalled the fuseblock, setting the voltage and jumper clip correctly, I used a tester connecting the ac power socket (L) and the internal one (Purple arrow the pin connecting to Blue wire) and the continuity was detected, meaning the fuseblock was set correctly.

 

IMG_2954.jpg

B&W 800 Diamond D2, Goldmund Eidos Reference CD, Goldmund Telos 600, Goldmund Mimesis 32, Cello Audio Palette MIV.[br]MacBook Pro, LIO, Mytek 192, HD800, Luxman SQ-38U, Luxman MQ-88u

Link to comment

Sometimes they fail.  It’s as simple as that.

Denafrips Terminator + DAC fed by a Denafrips GAIA DDC, HTPC running JRiver MC, iFi PRO iCAN Signature headphone amp, Marantz AV8805, OPPO BDP-105 for SACD ripping, Sony UBP-X100ES for watching and listening, McIntosh MC1201s Front L/R with Bryston powering the remaining 5 channels, B&W N-801s, B&W HTM-1 in Tiger Eye, B&W 801 IIIs on the sides and in the rear, JL-F212 sub, ReVOX PR-99Mk II, Rega P10 and Alpheta 3, PS Audio Nuwave Phono Amp, Audeze LCD-4 and LCD-XC, UE18 IEMs, Sony CD3000 rebuilt, Sony VPL-VW995ES laser projector, Joe Kane Affinity 120" screen, Cables: Cardas Clear Beyond speaker, Wireworld Platinum Elite 7 RCA, custom (by me) XLRs using affordable, quality parts 🙂

Link to comment
22 minutes ago, BlueSkyy said:

Sometimes they fail.  It’s as simple as that.

A night before it failed ... we had a  thunder storm 

B&W 800 Diamond D2, Goldmund Eidos Reference CD, Goldmund Telos 600, Goldmund Mimesis 32, Cello Audio Palette MIV.[br]MacBook Pro, LIO, Mytek 192, HD800, Luxman SQ-38U, Luxman MQ-88u

Link to comment
1 hour ago, mitch751 said:

I checked the JS2 front LED (orange) was ON, I unplug the ac power and took off the fuse and realised it was blew.

Something is not right with your report.  If the fuse is blown then it no AC goes to the transformer and no voltage gets to the main board--so the front panel LED could not have been ON if the fuse was blown.

 

1 hour ago, mitch751 said:

I replaced with the same specification of fuse, but this time JS2 could not turn on and the LED was off.

Please pull the red fuseblock and take photos of both sides of it--with the fuse in place and also showing the jumper.

Also, check continuity of the fuse again.  Are you using a slow-blow fuse?

 

1 hour ago, mitch751 said:

To make sure the I reinstalled the fuseblock, setting the voltage and jumper clip correctly, I used a tester connecting the ac power socket (L) and the internal one (Purple arrow the pin connecting to Blue wire) and the continuity was detected, meaning the fuseblock was set correctly.

Not necessarily.  What country are you in? What is your local voltage?

Link to comment
1 hour ago, BlueSkyy said:

Sometimes they fail.  It’s as simple as that.

Fuses yes. JS-2s only VERY rarely. Have only ever seen one transformer blown.

Fortunately JS-2s are 100% repairable. Covered by our 3-year warranty, though not against lightning strikes. For that labor is free, just cost of parts and shipping is charged.

Link to comment

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



×
×
  • Create New...