shyamwanne Posted May 6, 2018 Share Posted May 6, 2018 I've tried several of the top fuses in my JS-2, and I noticed a real benefit. Though I notice a benefit in all my gear in general with fuses. My favorites were the SR blue (haven't tried the black) and the HiFi tuning supreme. FYI. I have some extra SR blue 1A 5x20mm fuses that are new, if anyone wants one for $120 shipped. Link to comment
auricgoldfinger Posted May 6, 2018 Share Posted May 6, 2018 1 minute ago, Cooler said: Actually i have one SR black which i was going to sell, but few days back i bought JS-2, and now i dont know what to do, should i keep it or not, as im selling it with 40% discount and if it gives any improvement to JS-2, better to keep it As long as the specs for the black fuse are the same as the stock JS-2 fuse (mentioned above), why not just give it a try and see what you think? Give the the JS-2 time to burn-in, then try the black fuse. Sell the fuse if the specs don't match. Link to comment
Popular Post Superdad Posted May 6, 2018 Popular Post Share Posted May 6, 2018 4 minutes ago, Cooler said: So does it make sense to put SR black instead of stock fuse to JS-2? Well to each their own, and indeed a couple of people have installed fancy fuses in their JS-2 (maybe some brand other than SR) and liked the result. Yet there are a number of aspects to the JS-2’s design and construction that make it rather less sensitive about incoming AC cords and fuses. It starts with choke-filtered topology and extends to things like Schottky diodes (less diode switching noise), an RC-snubber on the transformer secondary to kill ringing, and the low interwinding capacitance of the shielded R-core transformer. The key thing is that the large choke makes the JS-2 into a supply that is conducting current during 97% of the AC waveform—versus about 50% for a traditional trans>diodes>caps>regulator LPS. Thus the JS-2 is the only power-factor-corrected linear power supply on the market (AFAIK). This results in virtually no harmonics being kicked back into the wall. The truth is, the reason people hear differences between AC power cords on other components—especially on things like preamps and power amps—is not because the upgraded cord delivers “cleaner” AC to the component. It is because the characteristics (inductance, capacitance) of the cord act as a filter to the harmonics that the typical power supplies in audio gear put back into the wall! Almost nothing is coming back on the AC line from a JS-2, so the cord does not matter much. We ship a 16awg shielded mains cord with the JS-2, and most people are happy with that. Of course the choke filter’s benefit goes way beyond making the JS-2 “line quiet.” Its primary benefit is that it results in lovely, easy to filter and regulate half-sine waves being delivered to the output voltage regulators—as opposed to the high-frequency ladden sawtooth that comes out of the rectifying diodes. You can read John’s better explanation of this on the JS-2 web page. Jud and Cooler 2 UpTone Audio LLC Link to comment
auricgoldfinger Posted May 12, 2018 Share Posted May 12, 2018 I popped an SR blue quantum fuse in my JS-2 today and like the result. To be very clear, the JS-2 is perfectly fine with the stock fuse. For many people, there are higher priority areas in the audio chain that should be addressed before upgrading a fuse. If you have already upgraded the fuse in your DAC and are chasing the last bit of performance out of your system, then the SR blue quantum fuse is something to consider for your JS-2. Link to comment
austinpop Posted May 12, 2018 Share Posted May 12, 2018 22 minutes ago, auricgoldfinger said: I popped an SR blue quantum fuse in my JS-2 today and like the result. To be very clear, the JS-2 is perfectly fine with the stock fuse. For many people, there are higher priority areas in the audio chain that should be addressed before upgrading a fuse. If you have already upgraded the fuse in your DAC and are chasing the last bit of performance out of your system, then the SR blue quantum fuse is something to consider for your JS-2. What amp rating is needed on the JS-2, Brian? My Audio Setup Link to comment
auricgoldfinger Posted May 12, 2018 Share Posted May 12, 2018 2 minutes ago, austinpop said: What amp rating is needed on the JS-2, Brian? Link to comment
Superdad Posted May 12, 2018 Share Posted May 12, 2018 3 minutes ago, austinpop said: What amp rating is needed on the JS-2, Brian? For 100/120V countries 1A slow blow; or you can probably get away with 1.25A regular (fast) rate. But 1A fast-blow will usually blow from turn-on inrush current. Of course for 220/230/240V countries, fuse is half the rating, so 0.5A slow-blow. The fuseholder of the JS-2 accepts both physical sizes of fuse. The big American ones as well as the petite European size. UpTone Audio LLC Link to comment
kurb1980 Posted May 12, 2018 Share Posted May 12, 2018 Thanks Alex we spoke the other day about the JS-2. I just wanted to say it was apparent to me your passion for what you do and wanting to share your expertise with others. You covered a lot of ground in that phone conversation pun intended most of it was over my head. I could tell your a great speaker I could listen to a webinar have you ever considered doing that? Long story short can’t wait to hear the JS-2 once it arrives! i do have a question should I plug it in to my filterless power strip which is plugged into the topaz? Link to comment
Superdad Posted May 12, 2018 Share Posted May 12, 2018 43 minutes ago, kurb1980 said: I do have a question should I plug it in to my filterless power strip which is plugged into the topaz? Thanks for your very kind words Ken. Sure, you can plug the JS-2 into the power strip connected to your Topaz isolation transformer. The choke-filtered JS-2 is much more "line-quiet" than traditional linear power supplies--so it certainly won't pollute the mains of anything else you have connected on that power strip. Hope you have a lovely weekend. We are on schedule to ship your JS-2 (and a bunch of others) this coming Wednesday. --Alex C. UpTone Audio LLC Link to comment
jamesg11 Posted May 12, 2018 Share Posted May 12, 2018 “Sense set” - remind me ... how this works ... Put my gear back together temporarily before moving house in a bunch of weeks, so js-2 @12v for both lps-1/ isoregen & macmini to idsd dac. With all ps wiring in place, & mmk etc. Does not like me having “sense set”, but fine on “switch set? macmini M1>ethernet / elgar iso tran(2.5kVa, .0005pfd)>consonance pw-3 boards>ghent ethernet(et linkway cat8 jssg360)>etherRegen(js-2)>ghent ethernet(et linkway cat8 jssg360) >ultraRendu (clones lpsu>lps1.2)>curious regen link>rme adi-2 dac(js-2)>cawsey cables>naquadria sp2 passive pre> 1.naquadria lucien mkII.5 power>elac fs249be + elac 4pi plus.2> 2.perreaux9000b(mods)>2x naquadria 12” passive subs. Link to comment
pl_svn Posted May 12, 2018 Share Posted May 12, 2018 OT question (forgive me Alex): are those Topaz IT dead quiet or...? (been considering hunting for one since quite long time) thanks Qnap HS-264 NAS (powered by an HD-Plex 100w LPS) > Cirrus7 Nimbini v2.5 Media Edition i7-8559U/32/512 running Roon ROCK (powered by a Keces P8 LPS) > Lumin U2 > Metrum Acoustics Adagio NOS digital preamplifier > First Watt SIT 3 power amplifier (or Don Garber Fi "Y" 6922 tube preamplifier + Don Garber Fi "X" 2A3 SET power amplifier, both powered from an Alpha-Core BP-30 Isolated Symmetrical Power Transformer) > Klipsch Cornwall III headphones system: Cirrus 7 > Lumin U2 > Metrum Acoustics Adagio > Pathos Aurium amplifier (powered by an UpTone Audio JS-2 LPS) > Focal Clear headphones Link to comment
Jud Posted May 12, 2018 Share Posted May 12, 2018 6 hours ago, pl_svn said: OT question (forgive me Alex): are those Topaz IT dead quiet or...? (been considering hunting for one since quite long time) thanks I have one installed (around 2.4kVA if I remember right), and I'm glad it's in the garage - hums up a storm. The spec says 50dB, which is medium loud dishwasher level. pl_svn 1 One never knows, do one? - Fats Waller The fairest thing we can experience is the mysterious. It is the fundamental emotion which stands at the cradle of true art and true science. - Einstein Computer, Audirvana -> optical Ethernet to Fitlet3 -> Fibbr Alpha Optical USB -> iFi NEO iDSD DAC -> Apollon Audio 1ET400A Mini (Purifi based) -> Vandersteen 3A Signature. Link to comment
pl_svn Posted May 12, 2018 Share Posted May 12, 2018 ok, will only consider one when moving from this apartment thanks Jud Qnap HS-264 NAS (powered by an HD-Plex 100w LPS) > Cirrus7 Nimbini v2.5 Media Edition i7-8559U/32/512 running Roon ROCK (powered by a Keces P8 LPS) > Lumin U2 > Metrum Acoustics Adagio NOS digital preamplifier > First Watt SIT 3 power amplifier (or Don Garber Fi "Y" 6922 tube preamplifier + Don Garber Fi "X" 2A3 SET power amplifier, both powered from an Alpha-Core BP-30 Isolated Symmetrical Power Transformer) > Klipsch Cornwall III headphones system: Cirrus 7 > Lumin U2 > Metrum Acoustics Adagio > Pathos Aurium amplifier (powered by an UpTone Audio JS-2 LPS) > Focal Clear headphones Link to comment
kennyb123 Posted May 12, 2018 Share Posted May 12, 2018 16 hours ago, Superdad said: For 100/120V countries 1A slow blow; or you can probably get away with 1.25A regular (fast) rate. But 1A fast-blow will usually blow from turn-on inrush current. Of course for 220/230/240V countries, fuse is half the rating, so 0.5A slow-blow. The fuseholder of the JS-2 accepts both physical sizes of fuse. The big American ones as well as the petite European size. My preamp also uses a 1A slow blow, which means that I have a couple of spare audiophile fuses around that could fit (HiFi Tuning Supreme and Synergistic Black). I can’t imagine that a fuse could matter in the case of a JS-2 powering a Mac Mini. But maybe one of these days I’ll throw in the Supreme just to confirm. Thanks for sharing the fuse info. Digital: Sonore opticalModule > Uptone EtherRegen > Shunyata Sigma Ethernet > Antipodes K30 > Shunyata Omega USB > Gustard X26pro DAC < Mutec REF10 SE120 Amp & Speakers: Spectral DMA-150mk2 > Aerial 10T Foundation: Stillpoints Ultra, Shunyata Denali v1 and Typhon x1 power conditioners, Shunyata Delta v2 and QSA Lanedri Gamma Revelation and Infinity power cords, QSA Lanedri Gamma Revelation XLR interconnect, Shunyata Sigma Ethernet, MIT Matrix HD 60 speaker cables, GIK bass traps, ASC Isothermal tube traps, Stillpoints Aperture panels, Quadraspire SVT rack, PGGB 256 Link to comment
Superdad Posted May 12, 2018 Share Posted May 12, 2018 12 hours ago, jamesg11 said: “Sense set” - remind me ... how this works ... The short answer: Leaving it on "Switch Set" is fine. The long answer: The pseudo-Kelvin-sense circuit of the JS-2's DC2 output: The excellent 5-pin Micrel high-current, adjustable regulators we use have a voltage set pin. The JS-2 has a circuit to extend that line out over a thin coax cable so that a remote pair of resistors at the load can feed back to tell the supply what voltage to output. Being that it is at the load, it both eliminates the droop caused by normal length cable resistance (you could run 40 feet of cable and still have the exact desired voltage delivered to the load), and responds better to instantaneous current demands so that the voltage never drops. When the small black slide switch on the back of the JS-2 is positioned to the right, "Sense Set"--towards the SMA coax jack of DC2--the supply ignores the output setting of the blue rotary switch (5/7/9/12V) and looks to resistors at the load for setting (which could be any custom voltage from 1.25V to about 13.5V). Our original intent was to offer small "Sense Cubes" that would be just large enough to have an SMA jack and a DC barrel jack on one side, and a DC barrel plug (or jack) on the other side. Inside would be a very small PCB with various resistors and either a DIP switch or cuttable jumpers to configure for a variety of common voltages. Right now the only product that takes advantage of the JS-2's sense circuit feature is our Mac mini DC-conversion/Linear Fan Controller Kit (MMK). The MMK has an SMA jack right next to its DC barrel jack, and the resistors are on the board. The JS-2 ships with a 5-foot SMA/coax cable and use of this feature is entirely optional (that is, the MMK can be used with other power supplies without using the SMA jack, and JS-2/MMK users don't have to use it either). What is fun is that if you have it hooked up and also put DC2's blue switch in the 12V position, you can, if you fingers are quick, switch between "Switch Set" and "Sense Set" while the music is playing and the Mac mini won't notice the blip or shut down. Does the circuit have sonic benefits? Well, given that the JS-2 ships with one of our custom Oyaide/Belden 15awg, shielded, star-quad DC cables and that it is just 5 feet with not much droop on its own, and that a well set up Mac mini does not present a lot of fast current demand events, I don't find it to be a big deal in my system. It seems to help a tiny bit in the bass. But compare to the R-core transformer, the carefully balanced choke-filtered design and overall goodness of the JS-2 circuit, no the sense circuit is not a big deal. Just to complete the picture with regards to the Mac mini, the JS-2, and the MMK, I will point out that our exclusive linear fan controller circuit of the MMK is a big deal as it rids the machine of the high-current (0.5A!) 12V, 25Khz pulse-train of the stock PWM fan-speed control circuit, and the benefit of that is easy to hear--even if you use some other external LPS or even an SMPS to power an MMK-equipped Mac mini. UpTone Audio LLC Link to comment
jamesg11 Posted May 13, 2018 Share Posted May 13, 2018 Will leave it on “switch” then - red fault light is on with “sense” ... but everything seems to play ok with light aflame! macmini M1>ethernet / elgar iso tran(2.5kVa, .0005pfd)>consonance pw-3 boards>ghent ethernet(et linkway cat8 jssg360)>etherRegen(js-2)>ghent ethernet(et linkway cat8 jssg360) >ultraRendu (clones lpsu>lps1.2)>curious regen link>rme adi-2 dac(js-2)>cawsey cables>naquadria sp2 passive pre> 1.naquadria lucien mkII.5 power>elac fs249be + elac 4pi plus.2> 2.perreaux9000b(mods)>2x naquadria 12” passive subs. Link to comment
ThenewGearPPK Posted May 14, 2018 Share Posted May 14, 2018 Can some one tell me what the DC connector ends that are supposed to plug into the JS-2 are called? The DC cable I have with the JS-2 has one end that connects to the back of the JS-2 perfectly, but the other end will not go in. Even though it looks nearly identical in size & diameter, trying to push it in will either break the connector or the JS-2. I also have the stock DC cable that came with the Uptone UltraCap & that DC cable too (both ends) will not fit into the back of the JS-2. I though the DC cables have a universal connector, they especially look the same, yet the size will not let them connect. Link to comment
Superdad Posted May 14, 2018 Share Posted May 14, 2018 3 minutes ago, ThenewGearPPK said: Can some one tell me what the DC connector ends that are supposed to plug into the JS-2 are called? The DC cable I have with the JS-2 has one end that connects to the back of the JS-2 perfectly, but the other end will not go in. Even though it looks nearly identical in size & diameter, trying to push it in will either break the connector or the JS-2. I also have the stock DC cable that came with the Uptone UltraCap & that DC cable too (both ends) will not fit into the back of the JS-2. I though the DC cables have a universal connector, they especially look the same, yet the size will not let them connect. Hi: DC barrel plugs come in many sizes, but the popular ones--on the cables we offer with the JS-2--always have an outer barrel diameter of 5.5mm. Then the second specification is the inside diameter of the hole in the plug, which should match the spec for the outside diameter of the center pin in the jack. The DC output jacks of the JS-2 are both 5.5mm x 2.5mm. The DC jacks (both input and output) of our UltraCap supplies, as well as the UpTone REGENs, the Sonore Rendus, and a great many low current devices is the 5.5mm x 2.1mm size. For the Oyaide plugs on the grey star-quad cables shipped with the JS-2, the key to the inner diameter of the hole is the color of the tip-ring. Red is the 2.5mm version, black is the 2.1mm version. One thing to keep in mind is that a 5.5mm x 2.5mm plug will fit a 5.5mm x 2.1mm jack (the hole is bigger than the pin)--it just won't be very tight. But a 5.5mm x 2.1mm plug will never fit a jack with a 2.5mm pin. Hope this helps. --Alex C. UpTone Audio LLC Link to comment
auldiophile Posted May 14, 2018 Share Posted May 14, 2018 15 minutes ago, ThenewGearPPK said: Can some one tell me what the DC connector ends that are supposed to plug into the JS-2 are called? The DC cable I have with the JS-2 has one end that connects to the back of the JS-2 perfectly, but the other end will not go in. Even though it looks nearly identical in size & diameter, trying to push it in will either break the connector or the JS-2. I also have the stock DC cable that came with the Uptone UltraCap & that DC cable too (both ends) will not fit into the back of the JS-2. I though the DC cables have a universal connector, they especially look the same, yet the size will not let them connect. I just ran into the same problem with a LPS I ordered on Ebay from China. I thought the DC cables were standard also and the one that came with it was the wrong size. The JS-2 states that it comes with a 5.5mm/2.5mm cable plug which means 5.5mm outer diameter and 2.5mm inner diameter. The one you have is likely a 2.1mm inner diameter. I ended up ordering the correct size from Teddy Pardo but maybe you can get one from Uptone. EDIT: Ooops....looks like Superdad was replying at the same time. Link to comment
look&listen Posted May 14, 2018 Share Posted May 14, 2018 15 minutes ago, Superdad said: One thing to keep in mind is that a 5.5mm x 2.5mm plug will fit a 5.5mm x 2.1mm jack (the hole is bigger than the pin)--it just won't be very tight. But a 5.5mm x 2.1mm plug will never fit a jack with a 2.5mm pin Bad product design for all consumer electronics to have two visually same but different incompatible connectors out in wild confusing people. Same bad design of USB 'A' connector, always 50% chance of wrong way, causing waste of time and anger. Geek designers no clue to real usage by humans Shame on all electronic industry! Superdad 1 Link to comment
Popular Post mansr Posted May 14, 2018 Popular Post Share Posted May 14, 2018 1 hour ago, look&listen said: Bad product design for all consumer electronics to have two visually same but different incompatible connectors out in wild confusing people. Same bad design of USB 'A' connector, always 50% chance of wrong way, causing waste of time and anger. Geek designers no clue to real usage by humans Shame on all electronic industry! scolley, Ralf11, pl_svn and 1 other 1 3 Link to comment
Ralf11 Posted May 14, 2018 Share Posted May 14, 2018 well, they fixed the spin problem recently the USB-C connector has a lot of charm Link to comment
Superdad Posted May 15, 2018 Share Posted May 15, 2018 1 hour ago, mansr said: You are of course speaking about what is commonly known as “Schrodinger’s USB plug.” UpTone Audio LLC Link to comment
Ralf11 Posted May 15, 2018 Share Posted May 15, 2018 I have to plug it in to find out if works, so... yes Link to comment
mansr Posted May 15, 2018 Share Posted May 15, 2018 10 hours ago, Ralf11 said: the USB-C connector has a lot of charm And far too many pins to hand solder. Link to comment
Recommended Posts
Create an account or sign in to comment
You need to be a member in order to leave a comment
Create an account
Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!
Register a new accountSign in
Already have an account? Sign in here.
Sign In Now