UpTone JS-2 Power Supply Listening Impressions

[miguelito]

11 hours ago, mansr said:

I think we should combine this with Murphy's law: You will always project the connector into the state that doesn't fit in the socket.

[sandyk]

14 hours ago, Superdad said:

The DC jacks (both input and  output) of our UltraCap supplies, as well as the UpTone REGENs, the Sonore Rendus, and a great many low current devices is the 5.5mm  x 2.1mm size.

 

 The only plug that I have found that doesn't go intermittent o/c after numerous insertions into 2 different types of 5.5 x 2.1mm over the counter sockets is the type that I found on a 12V Li Ion 15,000 mAH battery which has 2 internal metal inserts visible at the front. I haven't been able to find this plug in a catalogue though.

 For reliability I now use 3 pin mini XLR plugs and sockets at the PSU end.

It's also possible to slightly modify the plug to accept thicker wires.

 

https://www.ebay.com.au/itm/3-pin-Male-Mini-XLR-Audio-Microphone-Chassis-Mount-TB3M-match-TA3F-Q-G-connector/140747397320?ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT&_trksid=p2060353.m1438.l2649

 

https://www.ebay.com.au/itm/3-pin-Female-plug-Mini-TA3F-XLR-Audio-Microphone-connector-MIC-Adapter-Tini-Q-G/162329531649?ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT&_trksid=p2057872.m2749.l2649

 

P.S.

 Yet another LT3042 1A 5V regulator.

https://www.ebay.com.au/itm/Low-Noise-LT3042-Linear-Regulator-Power-Supply-Module-For-Amanero-XMOS-DAC-Power-/263256254143?_trksid=p2385738.m4383.l4275.c10

[ThenewGearPPK]

Any info regarding grounding with the JS-2?

Can any of the info from the SMPS & grounding thread can be applied here?

 

Like will using a 2 prong cable adapter with your power cable improve the JS-2?

 

[JohnSwenson]

The grounding thread was about dealing with high impedance leakage from SMPS, the JS-2 is NOT an SMPS so it does not have any high impedance leakage to deal with.

 

The outputs of the JS-2 are isolated from each other and the chassis and the ground pin of the AC input. The chassis is connected to the ground pin of the AC input.

 

 If WANT to have one of the outputs connected to AC ground pin you will need to do that externally. There is normally no need to do this. The only reason I can think of to do this is if you are using the JS-2 to drive one of the specific LAN switches, which in order to shunt network leakage need a power input whose negative is connected to AC ground. Other than that there should be no need to ground the output of a JS-2.

 

John S.

[jamesg11]

Interesting?! - when I temporarily put my gear back together (tree-change retirement house move coming up in 6 weeks ... sounds familiar ...), I just idly used a splitter to put the Netgear gs105 switch & lps-1 on a js-2 output. Might change this, given the above.

 

Definitely looking fwd to my new non-temporary setup!

[nbpf]

Is the hot pin of the JS-2 plug the lower one or the upper one? Thanks, nbpf 

[Superdad]

10 minutes ago, nbpf said:

Is the hot pin of the JS-2 plug the lower one or the upper one? Thanks, nbpf 

 

Lower pin.  Standard IEC60320-C14 wiring.

[nbpf]

1 minute ago, Superdad said:

 

Lower pin.  Standard IEC60320-C14 wiring.

Thanks!

[nbpf]

9 minutes ago, Superdad said:

 

Lower pin.  Standard IEC60320-C14 wiring.

Thus, that's the opposite of what depicted in http://www.hifi-advice.com/blog/audiophile-insights/cables-info/iec-connector-standards/, right?

[Superdad]

4 minutes ago, nbpf said:

Thus, that's the opposite of what depicted in http://www.hifi-advice.com/blog/audiophile-insights/cables-info/iec-connector-standards/, right?

 

No.  They are looking at the cable plug.  I am looking at the inlet itself.  It's the same.  Think about it. 

[nbpf]

5 minutes ago, Superdad said:

 

No.  They are looking at the cable plug.  I am looking at the inlet itself.  It's the same.  Think about it. 

What shall I think about? If the phase is to be connected to the lower pin than it is not to be connected to the upper pin which is what one would expect from http://www.hifi-advice.com/blog/audiophile-insights/cables-info/iec-connector-standards/!

[nbpf]

10 minutes ago, mansr said:

A device that requires a specific orientation is faulty. In some cases, mixed orientations can cause hum, nothing more. If that happens, it's generally easy to find the culprit and flip it around.

As said, it is impossible to "flip it around" without also flipping around other devices if one used a hydra or a distribution block. In this case, all the IEC connectors will have the phase on the same pin. In this setup, flipping around individual connections would only be possible if the IEC connector was symmetric which is not the case. Of course, if one used a power strip with Schuko plugs instead of an hydra or distribution block, one can easily flip around individual connections. This is not the case with an hydra. Hence my question.

[mansr]

11 minutes ago, nbpf said:

As said, it is impossible to "flip it around" without also flipping around other devices if one used a hydra or a distribution block. In this case, all the IEC connectors will have the phase on the same pin. In this setup, flipping around individual connections would only be possible if the IEC connector was symmetric which is not the case. 

Valid point. I didn't think of that.

[Superdad]

45 minutes ago, nbpf said:

What shall I think about? If the phase is to be connected to the lower pin than it is not to be connected to the upper pin which is what one would expect from http://www.hifi-advice.com/blog/audiophile-insights/cables-info/iec-connector-standards/!

 

You asked which pin of the JS-2's inlet is connected to the line (hot) side of the cord.  Our unit is wired according to standards.  If you look at an IEC65320-C14 inlet with the ground pin at the bottom, the HOT pin is always on the right.  But if you look face-on (as if it is a snake about to bite you) to the cord that will plug into that inlet, the HOT will be on the left.  

The page you are linking to is showing line-hot from the perspective of the end of the cord.

So they and I are saying the same thing! 

[nbpf]

9 hours ago, Superdad said:

 

You asked which pin of the JS-2's inlet is connected to the line (hot) side of the cord.  Our unit is wired according to standards.  If you look at an IEC65320-C14 inlet with the ground pin at the bottom, the HOT pin is always on the right.  But if you look face-on (as if it is a snake about to bite you) to the cord that will plug into that inlet, the HOT will be on the left.  

The page you are linking to is showing line-hot from the perspective of the end of the cord.

So they and I are saying the same thing! 

 

You are right and the two pictures are perfectly consistent with the hot pin being the one below. Thanks! 

[ThenewGearPPK]

Can someone tell me where the fuse is located?
I opened up the JS-2 & there is absolutely no fuse whatsoever inside.

 

The only place I can think of is maybe inside the black box where the inlet is?

 

 

[Superdad]

2 hours ago, ThenewGearPPK said:

The only place I can think of is maybe inside the black box where the inlet is?

 

Yep, it is in the red fuse block drawer behind the little door on the power inlet.  There is a trick to prying it out.  If you send us a PM (via the contact page of our web site so I have your e-mail address), I’ll e-mail you a short video clip showing removal, fuse positioning, and reinsertion.

[ThenewGearPPK]

Thanks, it was incredibly simple to get the fuse holder out. Just tricky knowing where it was!

 

Thing is, I have a 5x20mm 1amp fuse, but the fuse that is inside is the larger 6.3 x 32mm version!

Can a smaller 5x20mm fuse be placed inside? I could have sworn someone on these thread said he tried a 5x20mm Synergistic Blue fuse in the JS-2.

[Superdad]

21 minutes ago, ThenewGearPPK said:

Can a smaller 5x20mm fuse be placed inside? I could have sworn someone on these thread said he tried a 5x20mm Synergistic Blue fuse in the JS-2.

 

Yes, you can use either physical size fuse in the fuse holder.  It goes on the same side the block (the other side, with the metal jumper bracket, is never used).  Here is a photo of the fuse holder with a Euro-size fuse installed.

[Superdad]

Just a quick note to let people know that we are keeping up with demand for JS-2s every month.  Consistently building 12-14 units every 3 weeks, and from this current batch (testing/burning-in this week for shipment next week) there are still 7 units not yet spoken for.

 

Every JS-2 owner (about 700 now I think) has been delighted with the performance and build quality.  These special choke-filtered, dual-output, 5-7 amp supplies are flexible and built like a tank--so they will likely outlast many other components in your systems.

 

Contact us to reserve yours.  Fast and reasonable FedEx shipping worldwide. 2-day Priority Mail delivery in the USA.

 

 

P.S.  That's my new carbon fiber road bike in the background.  Just finished assembling it for its maiden ride next weekend. I'm very excited about it. Only bike I have ever had that required a firmware update and batteries for its shifting! 

I am starting my training to be an old person; well I am already old, I just want to stay healthy and to get back into enjoying long rides like I did in my youth (before 3 kids and this desk job). 

[wanta911]

I now have my JS-2....thanks Alex!

 

I've been trying it on different combos in my setup and I noticed that when I used it to power 2 x12V components one of the fault lights blinked very slowly. It didn't seem to affect anything though.

 

I remember reading about this in this thread but now I can't find it - I assume it means I am at the limit of total watts?

[Superdad]

2 hours ago, wanta911 said:

I now have my JS-2....thanks Alex!

 

I've been trying it on different combos in my setup and I noticed that when I used it to power 2 x12V components one of the fault lights blinked very slowly. It didn't seem to affect anything though.

 

I remember reading about this in this thread but now I can't find it - I assume it means I am at the limit of total watts?

 

It is not unusual for the red LEDs on the JS-2 to flicker a little bit.  When they do they are just registering peaks above their setting.  Blinking very slowly at some even interval would be a bit odd though.  Can you tell us what devices you are powering from your JS-2?  That might give some clue.

[wanta911]

6 hours ago, Superdad said:

 

It is not unusual for the red LEDs on the JS-2 to flicker a little bit.  When they do they are just registering peaks above their setting.  Blinking very slowly at some even interval would be a bit odd though.  Can you tell us what devices you are powering from your JS-2?  That might give some clue.

 

It was the Ultracap LPS 1.2 and my Netgear Router that I use as a wireless bridge but now that you mention it - flicker a little bit is a much more apt description and it was only on the output to the LPS 1.2 that was powering a 5V component that draws less than 1 amp. This also happened with just the LPS 1.2 connected and nothing else on the 2nd output.

 

As I don't intend to use the JS-2 this way long term, it's not a big deal.....just curious why powering the Ultracap would register the high peaks?

 

BTW the JS-2 looks & feels Hollywood - great work ?

[Superdad]

1 hour ago, wanta911 said:

It was the Ultracap LPS 1.2 and my Netgear Router that I use as a wireless bridge but now that you mention it - flicker a little bit is a much more apt description and it was only on the output to the LPS 1.2 that was powering a 5V component that draws less than 1 amp. This also happened with just the LPS 1.2 connected and nothing else on the 2nd output.

 

As I don't intend to use the JS-2 this way long term, it's not a big deal.....just curious why powering the Ultracap would register the high peaks?

 

BTW the JS-2 looks & feels Hollywood - great work ?

 

The UltraCap LPS-1.2 can draw charging current in big gulps (up to close to 36W), so that's likely why you see the JS-2 LED flicker a little.  

 

Where are you located and what is your AC mains wall voltage?  That can have an effect on the JS-2's ability to reach 7.2 amps (continuous, peaks above that are no problem) at 12V--though I truly doubt your are anywhere near approaching that sort of draw unless your Netgear router is a hog.  Our 7.2A/12V rating is for wall voltages of 120V or 240V.  With 110/220V input the JS-2 is good for about 6.8A at 12V.  (The lower AC voltage does not at all change the JS-2's 5A rating for 5V--in fact it makes it thermally easier due to less drop; and 7V and 9V are still able to hit the same high marks as when fed 120/240V.)

 

Glad to know you appreciate the build quality and finish of the JS-2.  Most everyone is surprised but that upon receipt.  Its much nicer than the finishing of Chinese chassis--and we use all stainless-steal screws throughout.  But we've never had anyone refer to it as "Hollywood!"  

[wanta911]

I'm in Perth Western Australia where the AC voltage is supposed to be 240V but it is notorious for fluctuating in a very wide band. I think the rest of OZ is changing or has changed to 230V but no plans for our state.

 

I have run the Netgear router easily on a 12V 1.8A SMPS so I don't think it's a hog, as I said the flicker was there also with the router disconnected.

 

Anyway thanks for the response - I'll go back to enjoying my new toy ?