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Amplifier for Dcs Debussy


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I am trying to get "the best " amplifier for my DCS Debussy.

I want to connect Debussy directly to an amplifier without any external preamplifier.

The amplifier should be stereo (single) unit and must fit inside the cabinet(19x22x10).

 

I have tried new Ayre vx5 and it was good,however it produced excessive heat and shut itself down after playing for about 1 hour.

Tried Rotel 1552 II but the sound was average.

I would like to use balanced connectors.

 

Any help appreciated.

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A Rotel 1552 II is a good amp for the price, but it's clearly not in the same league as a dCS Debussy.

 

And it's never a good idea to put a power amp into a cabinet. Can't you put a power amp (or mono blocks) next to the speakers and a preamp into the cabinet?

Claude

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Than you for suggestions.

I am not allowed (the boss) to put amplifiers outside the cabinet which is closed but has cut out in the back.

I do not want d class amplifier.

Rotel 1552 does not get hot at all ,but I am looking for something better.

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As it happens, I'm temporarily running my Debussy as a preamp and am using a backup amp which I think is one of the great values in audio . . . the Parasound Halo A21 (Product Lines > Halo > A 21 Two Channel Power Amplifier).

 

It's about $2,400, runs warm but not hot, and sounds way better than it should for the price. It looks like the dimensions will just fit your cabinet. It weighs 60lbs. so hopefully your cabinet (and cabinet shelf) are up for that weight. But you could do a lot worse than to check out this item. I'm constantly amazed at what it will do for the price.

 

Good luck.

 

Joel

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I do not want d class amplifier.

 

Any particular reason why not? It's probably the only "Class" amplifier capable of surviving within the environment you plan to place it in.

 

The low noise floor and low distortion found in a proper Class D amp would match up very well with a DAC like yours directly connected to it. You may actually be able to appreciate the low noise floor of the DCS in doing so.

 

If your insistent on skipping the Class D option I hope you are prepared to drive to the dealer in a Brinks truck to pick up that Class A or Class A/B amp with a sufficiently low noise floor and properly designed chassis capable of whisking away the heat of such a beast operating in an enclosed space. Think full billet, one piece aluminum chassis style amps (ie..Ayre VXR..etc)

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There is Class D and then there is Class D. Just like Class A/B and A, some sound better then others.

 

As much as I like Audio Research I was not impressed with the DS either.

 

But there are some top notch Class D Amps. I love my Merrill Audio Veritas Amps. They are based on the Hypex NCore NC1200. However they might be out of your price range, as you did not mention one. If so check out Merrill's entry level, also based on a Hypex but not the NCore. Also Merrill is very helpful and is not high pressure.

 

There are also Class D amps by Auralic that have received high praise. And Hypex makes a DIY amp based on the NCore tech. Very cheap and is not hard to build. There is a lot of info on the DIY Forum and Audio Circle. I have heard a properly built pair and they outperform their price range. If you go that way PM and I will give you some pointers.

 

There are many more that are worthy for you to consider. But try and demo first in your system. Also most class D amps will need some time to settle in once they are in your system to sound their best. So do not rush it.

 

Good luck with whatever Amp you end up getting.

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Have you thought of adding a low noise exhaust fan to your cabinet? There are some that are so quiet that you won't hear them? That might solve the heat issue.

Main listening (small home office):

Main setup: Surge protector +_iFi  AC iPurifiers >Isol-8 Mini sub Axis Power Conditioning+Isolation>QuietPC Low Noise Server>Roon (Audiolense DRC)>Stack Audio Link II>Kii Control>Kii Three >GIK Room Treatments.

Secondary Listening: Server with Audiolense RC>RPi4 or analog>Matrix Element i Streamer/DAC (XLR)+Schiit Freya>Kii Three .

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...Parasound Halo A21

It's about $2,400, runs warm but not hot....

...properly designed chassis capable of whisking away the heat of such a beast operating in an enclosed space. Think full billet, one piece aluminum chassis style amps (ie..Ayre VXR..etc)

Those shiny billets house hot circuits. The reason for heat is heat, which those kinds of amps produce in abundance. Likewise the Para A21 is a 750wpc high-bias Class AB design. Both will cook without adequate convection. A21 Manual:

"Leave at least 3” of space around both sides and 6” of space above the top. The bottom clearance can be a little less." That's when there is no front or rear to the enclosure: a rack.

There is Class D and then there is Class D... ...there are some top notch Class D Amps. I love my Merrill Audio Veritas Amps.
There we go.
Have you thought of adding a low noise exhaust fan to your cabinet? There are some that are so quiet that you won't hear them? That might solve the heat issue.

Good idea, but there aren't *any* that have sufficient airflow. I looked...everywhere.

 

I suggest the OP re-mount the glass at the front of the cabinet so it sits 1" or more proud of the front. If the boss has objections, explain how you will deal with the *rest* of the house.

Mac Mini 2012 with 2.3 GHz i5 CPU and 16GB RAM running newest OS10.9x and Signalyst HQ Player software (occasionally JRMC), ethernet to Cisco SG100-08 GigE switch, ethernet to SOtM SMS100 Miniserver in audio room, sending via short 1/2 meter AQ Cinnamon USB to Oppo 105D, feeding balanced outputs to 2x Bel Canto S300 amps which vertically biamp ATC SCM20SL speakers, 2x Velodyne DD12+ subs. Each side is mounted vertically on 3-tiered Sound Anchor ADJ2 stands: ATC (top), amp (middle), sub (bottom), Mogami, Koala, Nordost, Mosaic cables, split at the preamp outputs with splitters. All transducers are thoroughly and lovingly time aligned for the listening position.

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Speakers should really drive the amplifier selection - not the DAC. Synergy between amp and speakers is most critical.

Digital:  Sonore opticalModule > Uptone EtherRegen > Shunyata Sigma Ethernet > Antipodes K30 > Shunyata Omega USB > Gustard X26pro DAC 

Amp & Speakers:  Spectral DMA-150mk2 > Aerial 10T

Foundation: Stillpoints Ultra, Shunyata Denali power conditioner, Shunyata Alpha and Delta power cords, Shunyata Alpha interconnect, Shunyata Sigma Ethernet, MIT Matrix HD60 speaker cables, ASC isothermal tube traps, Stillpoints Aperture panels

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I know you said the amps HAVE to be inside the cabinet due to the boss' rules... But could you use Bryston PowerPAC 120 Monaural Amplifier mounted to the back of the speaker cabinets?

 

Eloise

Eloise

---

...in my opinion / experience...

While I agree "Everything may matter" working out what actually affects the sound is a trickier thing.

And I agree "Trust your ears" but equally don't allow them to fool you - trust them with a bit of skepticism.

keep your mind open... But mind your brain doesn't fall out.

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Maybe consider one of the Bel Canto amplifiers such as the 1000M mono blocks, they are supposed to very very good

Sources are: Mac Mini 2010 / Nottingham Analogue Hyperspace c/w Jelco 750 D and Denon DL 103 MC cartridge. Phono Stage: EAR 834P. Power Amp: Audio Note Empress Silver into a Hattor passive pre. DAC: Lampizator Atlantic and Humming Board NAA Speakers: Horns.pl Mummys. Cables: Duelund DC 16 GA  - Audionote AN-SPX 27 Strand RCA and Albedo Silver RCA and Western Electric WE 16 GA. All digital music played through a Mac Mini using Roon and HQP. Power Supply: Gigawat PC2-EVO

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I was wrong to criticize Firedog's idea. The fan noise should be very low when facing the back of a cabinet. I bought some fairly quiet ones a while back, facing rearward they should be OK. You want them to blow right on the amp. If you really want the best for your current setup, get what hifial has or this single chassis, dual-mono unit:

 

Merrill Siamese Twin amps

 

You'll never need more power or lower distortion than this, it should sound magnificent. Then you can get speakers really capable of reflecting that quality.

Mac Mini 2012 with 2.3 GHz i5 CPU and 16GB RAM running newest OS10.9x and Signalyst HQ Player software (occasionally JRMC), ethernet to Cisco SG100-08 GigE switch, ethernet to SOtM SMS100 Miniserver in audio room, sending via short 1/2 meter AQ Cinnamon USB to Oppo 105D, feeding balanced outputs to 2x Bel Canto S300 amps which vertically biamp ATC SCM20SL speakers, 2x Velodyne DD12+ subs. Each side is mounted vertically on 3-tiered Sound Anchor ADJ2 stands: ATC (top), amp (middle), sub (bottom), Mogami, Koala, Nordost, Mosaic cables, split at the preamp outputs with splitters. All transducers are thoroughly and lovingly time aligned for the listening position.

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I have heard Quicksilver monos and they sounded wonderful. Highly recommended. Which of the many models are you looking at?

 

Best,

John

Positive emotions enhance our musical experiences.

 

Synology DS213+ NAS -> Auralic Vega w/Linear Power Supply -> Auralic Vega DAC (Symposium Jr rollerball isolation) -> XLR -> Auralic Taurus Pre -> XLR -> Pass Labs XA-30.5 power amplifier (on 4" maple and 4 Stillpoints) -> Hawthorne Audio Reference K2 Speakers in MTM configuration (Symposium Jr HD rollerball isolation) and Hawthorne Audio Bass Augmentation Baffles (Symposium Jr rollerball isolation) -> Bi-amped w/ two Rythmic OB plate amps) -> Extensive Room Treatments (x2 SRL Acoustics Prime 37 diffusion plus key absorption and extensive bass trapping) and Pi Audio Uberbuss' for the front end and amplification

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I have the original 8417 monos. With the right speakers, they are truly lovely. (I used to run the mid and tweeter for Maggie Tympanies off them). But—major source of heat. You'd need to have a pretty strong fan running.

 

I haven't looked into what conversion costs are (the 8417s are no longer available; I think I have one or two pair of matched NOS up in the attic where the amps have been for the past decade). PM me if you're interested—I might be talked into parting with them at a fair price. But again, I think they are very speaker-dependent, and I know they do put out heat.

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Thank you all.

My dealer does not recommend merril or Eloise brilliant idea bryston power packs.

I will try Bel Canto.

I got recommendation to try Quicksilver monos.

 

Pawel,

 

1) Quicksilvers are great if you have good ventilation, you do not. I hope you have good fire insurance.

 

2) I'm going to make some guesses:

 

A) Your dealer sold you the $11k Debussy after he sold you the $2k speakers.

 

B) The same dealer did not tell you that the *best* Bel Canto amps, the Black Series below, use the same Hypex nCore1200 cores as the Merrill amps listed above.

 

I suggest you avoid the dealer in the future.

 

For your reading pleasure:

 

From:

 

Bel Canto Black MPS1

 

"Each PowerStream Mono Block holds a Bel Canto nCore Discrete Power Processor stage that can supply 1200Watts and 40 Ampere peaks to the loudspeaker with 128 dB of dynamic range."

 

From:

 

Merrill Audio Veritas

 

"The VERITAS Monoblocks based on the Hypex Ncore NC1200 are engineered to maintain Audio Purity."

Mac Mini 2012 with 2.3 GHz i5 CPU and 16GB RAM running newest OS10.9x and Signalyst HQ Player software (occasionally JRMC), ethernet to Cisco SG100-08 GigE switch, ethernet to SOtM SMS100 Miniserver in audio room, sending via short 1/2 meter AQ Cinnamon USB to Oppo 105D, feeding balanced outputs to 2x Bel Canto S300 amps which vertically biamp ATC SCM20SL speakers, 2x Velodyne DD12+ subs. Each side is mounted vertically on 3-tiered Sound Anchor ADJ2 stands: ATC (top), amp (middle), sub (bottom), Mogami, Koala, Nordost, Mosaic cables, split at the preamp outputs with splitters. All transducers are thoroughly and lovingly time aligned for the listening position.

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My dealer is great and I highly recommend him

Optimal Enchantment in Santa Monica ,California.

He did not recommend Bel Canto.

Randy is vinyl guy and he likes tube amplifiers ie audio research,aesthetics or quicksilver.

The only solid state which is acceptable to him is Ayre.

Speakers I bought myself without any recommendation.

The only speakers I can get from Optimal are Vandersteens from 1-7.

I had tried many dacs and to my ears only Dcs sounds great.

I had Berkeley,audio research reference dac,Meitner etc.

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Thank you for correcting me, it's good to hear that. I've heard of that store, seen their setups at shows and spoken with them, but never went there. Sorry, it seemed to me as if your purchases were out of balance, and given the critical problem of heat with the tube amps, I had to doubt the competence of your dealer. What does he expect you to do with the Quicksilvers? They would shut down quickly in a cabinet. So you are interested in the Bel Cantos... well I have 4 channels of the admittedly less-impressive 150wpc versions, but I'm planning on replacing them with nCore DIY builds.

 

Given that you spent so much on a top-drawer DAC, it is logical for you to get amps that match up well. The Icepower-based Bel Cantos are good, but now you know what is better. Perhaps your dealer hasn't heard any of the nCore-based amps yet...

 

Cheers.

Mac Mini 2012 with 2.3 GHz i5 CPU and 16GB RAM running newest OS10.9x and Signalyst HQ Player software (occasionally JRMC), ethernet to Cisco SG100-08 GigE switch, ethernet to SOtM SMS100 Miniserver in audio room, sending via short 1/2 meter AQ Cinnamon USB to Oppo 105D, feeding balanced outputs to 2x Bel Canto S300 amps which vertically biamp ATC SCM20SL speakers, 2x Velodyne DD12+ subs. Each side is mounted vertically on 3-tiered Sound Anchor ADJ2 stands: ATC (top), amp (middle), sub (bottom), Mogami, Koala, Nordost, Mosaic cables, split at the preamp outputs with splitters. All transducers are thoroughly and lovingly time aligned for the listening position.

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3 others to try are Audio Research, Boulder and McIntosh. I remember checking out Mc's new lineup and they did not run hot.

 

I am with you on the class D....

 

If you have not already done so, you can remove the back panel of the cabinet for air flow

 

Or a bigger project, but wife approved....stick everything in a closet on an open rack and run wires in the wall.

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