Power cords

[One and a half]

Stick to very light cords if you want to change the stock units.

 

If the cable is too heavy, like several pounds, it places a large strain on the IEC connector far exceeding its design, unless you of course support the cable. Usually people just use gravity to support, then that's a problem. Same applies with hawser like cables for speakers.

 

I found really heavy cables are a joke, they have more weight than the device itself (Example Purple Flare on a Mac Mini) and pulls the device where the cable wants to. Silly.

[Allan F]

Stick to very light cords if you want to change the stock units.

 

If the cable is too heavy, like several pounds, it places a large strain on the IEC connector far exceeding its design, unless you of course support the cable.

 

What you say is generally true but, for example, the Virtual Dynamics power cord I described is so stiff that it literally supports itself between the IEC connector of the amp and the receptacle in the wall once you bend it to fit.

[Cycleman]

Stick to very light cords if you want to change the stock units.

 

If the cable is too heavy, like several pounds, it places a large strain on the IEC connector far exceeding its design, unless you of course support the cable. Usually people just use gravity to support, then that's a problem. Same applies with hawser like cables for speakers.

 

I found really heavy cables are a joke, they have more weight than the device itself (Example Purple Flare on a Mac Mini) and pulls the device where the cable wants to. Silly.

 

Much agree. I've returned several heavy cables that simply did not stay in the devices I considered using them with.

 

Even with my 50-lb. amplifier, the IEC connector alone was too heavy for the amp's socket, and kept pulling out.

 

That's probably why I've found the combo of stock cables, but a relatively high-end power conditioner and a good external PSU for the DAC, have done a lot of good without the heavy-weight problems mentioned by 1.5.

 

Actually, the other thing to consider -- if you find electrical changes help your SQ and if this works for your living situation -- are dedicated circuits for all your gizmos. My electrician was able to add two outlets, each on their own circuit, and that's been a solid.

 

Dave, who at this time last year would not have believed that electrical changes of various kinds would make such a positive SQ difference for his music system

[Panelhead]

Power cables can make a difference with current delivery for sure. That is why I would not use my 18 ga Eupen power cables with an active speaker.

I built a pair of solid state mono blocks several years ago. Put in 2 amp slo blow fuses for first power ups. Checked for dc and noise and put in system for playing. Blew the fuses as soon as the switch was flipped.

I thought they had failed. But on the bench I was using 18 ga power cables and the system had 13 ga. Blew a couple fuses and moved the 18 ga cables and the amps powered up and played fine. Installed larger fuses and then the 13 ga power cords worked fine.

The lesson learned was the 18 ga cords "crippled" the inrush current enough to prevent blowing the 2 amp slo blows. The 13 ga power cords allowed more current.

Guess which cable would provide the best bass, driver control, and dynamics. But if the domed in the wall is 12 ga, not sure if bigger ga than 12 ga will help much.

[One and a half]

Power cables can make a difference with current delivery for sure. That is why I would not use my 18 ga Eupen power cables with an active speaker.

I built a pair of solid state mono blocks several years ago. Put in 2 amp slo blow fuses for first power ups. Checked for dc and noise and put in system for playing. Blew the fuses as soon as the switch was flipped.

I thought they had failed. But on the bench I was using 18 ga power cables and the system had 13 ga. Blew a couple fuses and moved the 18 ga cables and the amps powered up and played fine. Installed larger fuses and then the 13 ga power cords worked fine.

The lesson learned was the 18 ga cords "crippled" the inrush current enough to prevent blowing the 2 amp slo blows. The 13 ga power cords allowed more current.

Guess which cable would provide the best bass, driver control, and dynamics. But if the domed in the wall is 12 ga, not sure if bigger ga than 12 ga will help much.

 

This could be a matter of selecting the right size fuse for the inrush of the transformer. Typically toroids can pull 11-15 times rated current on the primary for 20ms (50Hz systems). The fuse needs to clear this value, then you're done. Depending on when the switch makes the primary voltage, you would be lucky for a transformer to switch at the peak 90deg, minimising the inrush. If you switch at 0 deg, you get a lot more current.

[sandyk]

This could be a matter of selecting the right size fuse for the inrush of the transformer. Typically toroids can pull 11-15 times rated current on the primary for 20ms (50Hz systems). The fuse needs to clear this value, then you're done.

 

+1

[Paul R]

I always wonder why audio equipment makers do not put a latch on the power cable plug. This little wire basket thingie is quite common on computer gear that uses a standard power cord yet needs to make sure that the core *stays* plugged in.

 

-Paul

[bluesman]

All fair points bluesman. The hard part is that many of us get quite excited about improvements that may seem trivial to people who are not audio enthusiasts, or even audiophiles.

And that's my point exactly - the excitement exceeds the objective change much (most?) of the time. Even more importantly, the changes often don't seem so dramatic to us either, once the honeymoon's over. I can't tell you how many times I've gone back to older equipment out of curiosity and realized that I'd been excited about differences that were minor and/or not at all qualitative.

 

After my finely tuned PAS-3x sat unused on my rack for a few years (replaced, along with my Marantz 7, by an Apt Holman), I went back to it to see what I'd left behind - and it sounded great. The faint hiss without signal was still there, and the bass was a tiny bit flabby - but overall, the sound quality was at least as good and maybe a bit better (a little warmer in the middle, with more lifelike voices, trumpets, violins etc). I really love tight bass, and I hate background noise - so I obviously fell immediately in love with the AH because it was silent and had slightly tighter deep bass. I now realize I could have happily stayed with my modified PAS-3x / stereo 70 rig, saved a ton of money, and been just as happy if a bit less well educated.

 

Ditto the Sonys, Yamahas (the B-2 was a fabulous amp I wish I'd kept), Macs, Haflers, Crowns, H-Ks (ditto the Citation II), etc etc etc. So I consider the money spent to have been the cost of knowledge and experience - and it's been well worth it (although my wife may not fully agree...).

[tranz]

For my Focal solo 6 BE... suggestions that will make a sonic difference are appreciated. Thank you.

 

Hi freesteve,

 

Of course you will get many opinions, but in my search a few things stood out:

 

1. Gauge - enough to power the unit; thicker if feeding thirsty power amps. 10-12 gauge is what I use for active monitors.

 

2. Copper - one of the best conductive and affordable metals. Silver is a little more conductive but more pricey.

 

3. Termination quality - snug and tight connections into the socket for conductivity and to avoid arching. Installing better quality outlets like medical grade also helps improve this connection. No magic.

 

4. Shielding - if you have analog cables or sensitive equipment near power cables, its EMI field can interfere. For my setup this was key and audible.

 

The EMI field on the cheap black cables is quite large, and to me the biggest reason to replace them. Manufactures are logically not too concerned with this as it is external to their gear; as long as they provide plenty of power to the unit....

 

I have tried many costing thousands and ended up with a few costing <100$ such as Shunyata Diamondback Platinum (Not the Venom3 as its shielding sucks) and Transparent's cheapest ones. Good construction, good shielding, not too pricey.

 

If you enjoy DYI, you can create high quality yourself. I did look into this, but since the big companies have economies of scale, it would have been more expensive for me.

 

Hope that helps in this minefield.

[MrAcoustat]

For my Focal solo 6 BE... suggestions that will make a sonic difference are appreciated. Thank you.

 

Hi you have the believer camp and the non believers, i belong to the believers camp but to a certain point, why ????? because i'm cheap, i have a pretty decent system with ( 4 ) Grant Fidelity PC- 1.5 power cords they list for $125.00 each and do a pretty good job for the money, is there better ????? of course there is but like i said before i'm cheap - - - Power Cords - - - 1 = integrated amplifier - - - 1 = cd player - - - 2 = Acoustat interfaces.

 

PS: Be careful DIY cables can be very good BUT as keepers, if you try to resale no matter how good they are, they are worth close to NOTHING.

 

- - - - -

[Allan F]

Hi you have the believer camp and the non believers, i belong to the believers camp but to a certain point, why ????? because i'm cheap, i have a pretty decent system with ( 4 ) Grant Fidelity PC- 1.5 power cords they list for $125.00 each and do a pretty good job for the money, is there better ????? of course there is but like i said before i'm cheap - - - Power Cords - - -

 

Frugality has its own rewards. You don't have to spend a lot of money to improve upon the cheap, generic power cords that are supplied with most gear. Those cords typically cost manufacturers a dollar or two, if that. The usually use very thin wire and the cheapest connectors and plugs available. Any power cord that replaces those with improved materials can provide some improvement.

[bluesman]

Wow - Acoustat 1s! Cool! I haven't seen a pair of those in a looong time. They're very nice speakers (if a bit power hungry).

[MrAcoustat]

Wow - Acoustat 1s! Cool! I haven't seen a pair of those in a looong time. They're very nice speakers (if a bit power hungry).

 

Mine are from 1984 power hungry 81db rebuilt in 2012 - 2013 - all steel frame you can see the making of in my Flickr photo galery if you wish. Flickr: mracoustat's Photostream

[sandyk]

I always wonder why audio equipment makers do not put a latch on the power cable plug. This little wire basket thingie is quite common on computer gear that uses a standard power cord yet needs to make sure that the core *stays* plugged in.

 

-Paul

 

 

Female IEC Panel-Mount Socket - Jaycar Electronics

[Paul R]

Yep. I was thinking of something cheaper and simpler though, like

rigged for commercial usage.

[sandyk]

Yep. I was thinking of something cheaper and simpler though, like

rigged for commercial usage.

 

Cheapskate ! (grin)

That would be fine for a Server room or similar, but it's not really practical for day to day items that get moved occasionally .