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Auralic Vega: my review


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Has anyone tried using the Auralic Vega with the SOtM mini-server? I would be curious to know if the USB interface worked reasonably well and without hickups.

 

Not sure it helps but I use it with a SOtM USB card in my CAPS server.

Equipment:

Auralic Vega DAC, Auralic Taurus Preamp, KEF LS50 Speakers, Hypex Ncore400 monoblock amps, CAPs V3, Paul Hynes SR5 (12v and 9v rails), Audioquest King Cobra XLRs, Signal Cable speaker cable, Furutech power and USB cable

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  • 2 weeks later...

Hello, i currently have the Chord Hugo going to Job 225 but thinking about switching it out to Auralic Vega. I am little concerned because of the hot output on the Vega and the high 35 gain on the Job 225... i read a post about a owner of both having problems with this setup... i just wanted to ask the maker of Vega if this is a bad match. I have a 12 x 13 room.

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What software/server interface are you using?

Thanks,

Mark

Jriver on the caps... Jremote on iPadiPad

Equipment:

Auralic Vega DAC, Auralic Taurus Preamp, KEF LS50 Speakers, Hypex Ncore400 monoblock amps, CAPs V3, Paul Hynes SR5 (12v and 9v rails), Audioquest King Cobra XLRs, Signal Cable speaker cable, Furutech power and USB cable

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Hello, i currently have the Chord Hugo going to Job 225 but thinking about switching it out to Auralic Vega. I am little concerned because of the hot output on the Vega and the high 35 gain on the Job 225... i read a post about a owner of both having problems with this setup... i just wanted to ask the maker of Vega if this is a bad match. I have a 12 x 13 room.

 

I recently switched from a 2A3 SET amp that put out 3.5 watts to a Quicksilver Silver 88 that puts out 80 watts due to switching my speakers to a 4 ohm load (a long story there). I have found that I've gone from 50-70 on the digital volume control to 20-50 on the digital volume control. For "quiet" listening (early mornings and late nights, for example), I now have to run at 5-15 where I used to run at 20-35 on the Vega volume control.

 

I suspect I have to acquire the Taurus Pre Amp soon...there are some posts somewhere in this thread on this subject. That said, I find the sound quality at these lower levels remarkably good and still better than my existing volume attenuators (Bottlehead stepped attenuator and Warpspeed) so you might find it is fine for you. I am certainly in no hurry to drop $2K for what I suspect is an incremental improvement...but I know I will sooner or later.

 

I hope that helps a little (even if it isn't apples to apples exactly)...

 

Best,

John

Positive emotions enhance our musical experiences.

 

Synology DS213+ NAS -> Auralic Vega w/Linear Power Supply -> Auralic Vega DAC (Symposium Jr rollerball isolation) -> XLR -> Auralic Taurus Pre -> XLR -> Pass Labs XA-30.5 power amplifier (on 4" maple and 4 Stillpoints) -> Hawthorne Audio Reference K2 Speakers in MTM configuration (Symposium Jr HD rollerball isolation) and Hawthorne Audio Bass Augmentation Baffles (Symposium Jr rollerball isolation) -> Bi-amped w/ two Rythmic OB plate amps) -> Extensive Room Treatments (x2 SRL Acoustics Prime 37 diffusion plus key absorption and extensive bass trapping) and Pi Audio Uberbuss' for the front end and amplification

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  • 2 weeks later...

This DAC is a single-chip design, right?

 

I guess I would wonder if the TEAC UD-501 is better value then because it's dual mono - although the chip in the Vega is thought to be better, right? So do I want two okay chips or one great one?

Aries Mini -> Audioquest Forest -> Musical Fidelity M6si -> Nordost White -> Ascend Acoustics Sierra RAAL tower

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  • 9 months later...

I'm running a SOTM SMS-100 as NAA mode playing HQP upsampled files to DSD128 to my Auralic Vega. In fine clock mode everything sounds ok. When I switch to exact clock I get a loud screeching noise every 5 seconds. Anyone has this problem?

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I'm running a SOTM SMS-100 as NAA mode playing HQP upsampled files to DSD128 to my Auralic Vega. In fine clock mode everything sounds ok. When I switch to exact clock I get a loud screeching noise every 5 seconds. Anyone has this problem?

 

 

That’s, normal.

 

Losing sync when playing PCM results in dropouts.

 

Losing sync when playing DSD results in noise.

 

If you are using the “experimental” clock settings such as exact or fine and don´t provide the Vega with a digital signal accurate enough, the Vega will lose sync. Losing sync when playing DSD results in the noise you described, because the dac uses the DoP-protocol, and when losing bits it will no longer recognize the data as DSD, the dac will handle the signal as PCM instead.

Minim server,Microsoft Windows 8.1 (64-bit),Auralic Vega, Auralic Aries,Krell Kav-280p, Krell Kav-2250, B&W 802d, Nordost SPM XLR, Nordost Red Dawn XLR, Purist Audio Design Vesta, Wireworld electra 7, 2x2m +1x1m, Harmony Logitech oneKinsky -"folder-view setting" (Lightning DS -just for setup)

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Yup. I typically don't hear DSD sync loss at all any more even in EXACT. You using the new driver?

 

 

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

DIGITAL: Windows 7 x64 JRMC19 >Adnaco S3B fiber over USB (battery power)> Auralic Vega > Tortuga LDR custom LPSU > Zu Union Cubes + Deep Hemp Sub

 

ANALOG: PTP Audio Solid 9 > Audiomods Series V > Audio Technica Art-7 MC > Allnic H1201 > Tortuga LDR > Zu Union Cubes + Deep Hemp Sub

 

ACCESSORIES: PlatterSpeed, BlackCat cables, Antipodes Cables, Huffman Cables, Feickert Protracter, OMA Graphite mat, JRemote

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  • 3 months later...

I'm a recent Vega owner.

Just thought I'd add that I'm getting stable playback on Exact timing with a 2008 Macbook with 8GB RAM and Apple Music via iTunes, and VOX player for FLAC. I'm on OSX 10.11 (I'm a beta tester).

 

However, the only quirk is that when the Macbook is first woken from sleep, it takes a track or two for it to warm up before it can go Exact. I found this weird given the doco that says that the Vega stays "warm" when asleep. Looks like the Macbook also needs a stay warm mode.

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However, the only quirk is that when the Macbook is first woken from sleep, it takes a track or two for it to warm up before it can go Exact. I found this weird given the doco that says that the Vega stays "warm" when asleep. Looks like the Macbook also needs a stay warm mode.

 

I get this with Aurender N100 & Vega in the first 30 seconds only (max 3-4 dropouts), then it plays perfectly for as long as you've got.

 

 

It's almost as if each component learns the other's capability, finds best sync and then gets on with the job.

Source:

*Aurender N100 (no internal disk : LAN optically isolated via FMC with *LPS) > DIY 5cm USB link (5v rail removed / ground lift switch - split for *LPS) > Intona Industrial (injected *LPS / internally shielded with copper tape) > DIY 5cm USB link (5v rail removed / ground lift switch) > W4S Recovery (*LPS) > DIY 2cm USB adaptor (5v rail removed / ground lift switch) > *Auralic VEGA (EXACT : balanced)

 

Control:

*Jeff Rowland CAPRI S2 (balanced)

 

Playback:

2 x Revel B15a subs (balanced) > ATC SCM 50 ASL (balanced - 80Hz HPF from subs)

 

Misc:

*Via Power Inspired AG1500 AC Regenerator

LPS: 3 x Swagman Lab Audiophile Signature Edition (W4S, Intona & FMC)

Storage: QNAP TS-253Pro 2x 3Tb, 8Gb RAM

Cables: DIY heavy gauge solid silver (balanced)

Mains: dedicated distribution board with 5 x 2 socket ring mains, all mains cables: Mark Grant Black Series DSP 2.5 Dual Screen

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I've noted times where I need to put Vega to sleep and wake because of corrupted playback via USB. very obvious sounds like clipping; no sync loss or dropout but crackles.

 

 

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

DIGITAL: Windows 7 x64 JRMC19 >Adnaco S3B fiber over USB (battery power)> Auralic Vega > Tortuga LDR custom LPSU > Zu Union Cubes + Deep Hemp Sub

 

ANALOG: PTP Audio Solid 9 > Audiomods Series V > Audio Technica Art-7 MC > Allnic H1201 > Tortuga LDR > Zu Union Cubes + Deep Hemp Sub

 

ACCESSORIES: PlatterSpeed, BlackCat cables, Antipodes Cables, Huffman Cables, Feickert Protracter, OMA Graphite mat, JRemote

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Yes... clipping,

 

I've had that happen twice now (possibly caused after long periods of non use, or disconnecting the USB cable)... but just changing the filter from 4 to 1 and back to 4 solved it for me, no need to put to sleep or power down.

 

 

I've noted times where I need to put Vega to sleep and wake because of corrupted playback via USB. very obvious sounds like clipping; no sync loss or dropout but crackles.

 

 

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Source:

*Aurender N100 (no internal disk : LAN optically isolated via FMC with *LPS) > DIY 5cm USB link (5v rail removed / ground lift switch - split for *LPS) > Intona Industrial (injected *LPS / internally shielded with copper tape) > DIY 5cm USB link (5v rail removed / ground lift switch) > W4S Recovery (*LPS) > DIY 2cm USB adaptor (5v rail removed / ground lift switch) > *Auralic VEGA (EXACT : balanced)

 

Control:

*Jeff Rowland CAPRI S2 (balanced)

 

Playback:

2 x Revel B15a subs (balanced) > ATC SCM 50 ASL (balanced - 80Hz HPF from subs)

 

Misc:

*Via Power Inspired AG1500 AC Regenerator

LPS: 3 x Swagman Lab Audiophile Signature Edition (W4S, Intona & FMC)

Storage: QNAP TS-253Pro 2x 3Tb, 8Gb RAM

Cables: DIY heavy gauge solid silver (balanced)

Mains: dedicated distribution board with 5 x 2 socket ring mains, all mains cables: Mark Grant Black Series DSP 2.5 Dual Screen

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  • 2 weeks later...

I recently purchased an Auralic Vega along with a new Pangea USB cable and a Canare digital cable. I stream from both JRiver Media Center via USB and an Oppo BDP-95 via coax. While the Vega sounded good, I was expecting more of an improvement over my Oppo BDP-95.

 

About two weeks later, the Vega seems to sound a LOT better. I had the DAC powered on for about 8 hours the day I noticed the big improvement. Has anyone else had an experience like this?

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Yes, it as all over the place in the first week, but now sounds sublime.

 

I recently purchased an Auralic Vega along with a new Pangea USB cable and a Canare digital cable. I stream from both JRiver Media Center via USB and an Oppo BDP-95 via coax. While the Vega sounded good, I was expecting more of an improvement over my Oppo BDP-95.

 

About two weeks later, the Vega seems to sound a LOT better. I had the DAC powered on for about 8 hours the day I noticed the big improvement. Has anyone else had an experience like this?

Source:

*Aurender N100 (no internal disk : LAN optically isolated via FMC with *LPS) > DIY 5cm USB link (5v rail removed / ground lift switch - split for *LPS) > Intona Industrial (injected *LPS / internally shielded with copper tape) > DIY 5cm USB link (5v rail removed / ground lift switch) > W4S Recovery (*LPS) > DIY 2cm USB adaptor (5v rail removed / ground lift switch) > *Auralic VEGA (EXACT : balanced)

 

Control:

*Jeff Rowland CAPRI S2 (balanced)

 

Playback:

2 x Revel B15a subs (balanced) > ATC SCM 50 ASL (balanced - 80Hz HPF from subs)

 

Misc:

*Via Power Inspired AG1500 AC Regenerator

LPS: 3 x Swagman Lab Audiophile Signature Edition (W4S, Intona & FMC)

Storage: QNAP TS-253Pro 2x 3Tb, 8Gb RAM

Cables: DIY heavy gauge solid silver (balanced)

Mains: dedicated distribution board with 5 x 2 socket ring mains, all mains cables: Mark Grant Black Series DSP 2.5 Dual Screen

Link to comment
I recently purchased an Auralic Vega along with a new Pangea USB cable and a Canare digital cable. I stream from both JRiver Media Center via USB and an Oppo BDP-95 via coax. While the Vega sounded good, I was expecting more of an improvement over my Oppo BDP-95.

 

About two weeks later, the Vega seems to sound a LOT better. I had the DAC powered on for about 8 hours the day I noticed the big improvement. Has anyone else had an experience like this?

haha. When I opened my first one and unboxed it and listened I thought it was the second worst audio purchase ever. I let it "burn-in" and low and behold it really did sound better. I'm not much into that whole burn-in thing but I gotta say that with some time it sounded better to me. Who knows, maybe after the trip over the ocean it got a little jet lagged. ;-) Now it has over 15k hours and sounds pretty amazing every time I listen to it.

W10 NUC i7 (Gen 10) > Roon (Audiolense FIR) > Motu UltraLite mk5 > (4) Hypex NCore NC502MP > JBL M2 Master Reference +4 subs

 

Watch my Podcast https://www.youtube.com/channel/UCXMw_bZWBMtRWNJQfTJ38kA/videos

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I really am an acknowledger of burn in... my system ruthlessly highlights this with (almost) everything that is added. Often it's inflated loose bass that then tightens up and the usual peaky treble that settles down.

 

The Vega really was absolutely all over the place when new, it was as if it was a different product every day for at least a week. Now it's consistently great.

 

:-)

 

haha. When I opened my first one and unboxed it and listened I thought it was the second worst audio purchase ever. I let it "burn-in" and low and behold it really did sound better. I'm not much into that whole burn-in thing but I gotta say that with some time it sounded better to me. Who knows, maybe after the trip over the ocean it got a little jet lagged. ;-) Now it has over 15k hours and sounds pretty amazing every time I listen to it.

Source:

*Aurender N100 (no internal disk : LAN optically isolated via FMC with *LPS) > DIY 5cm USB link (5v rail removed / ground lift switch - split for *LPS) > Intona Industrial (injected *LPS / internally shielded with copper tape) > DIY 5cm USB link (5v rail removed / ground lift switch) > W4S Recovery (*LPS) > DIY 2cm USB adaptor (5v rail removed / ground lift switch) > *Auralic VEGA (EXACT : balanced)

 

Control:

*Jeff Rowland CAPRI S2 (balanced)

 

Playback:

2 x Revel B15a subs (balanced) > ATC SCM 50 ASL (balanced - 80Hz HPF from subs)

 

Misc:

*Via Power Inspired AG1500 AC Regenerator

LPS: 3 x Swagman Lab Audiophile Signature Edition (W4S, Intona & FMC)

Storage: QNAP TS-253Pro 2x 3Tb, 8Gb RAM

Cables: DIY heavy gauge solid silver (balanced)

Mains: dedicated distribution board with 5 x 2 socket ring mains, all mains cables: Mark Grant Black Series DSP 2.5 Dual Screen

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I am thinking about finding a replacement/upgrade for my Wyred 4 Sound DAC2 DSDse. Over time I am finding that although it is amazingly transparent with remarkable detail it sometimes feels a bit clinical or bright. I used to have another Saber DAC, the TP Buffalo, and it was worse. Funny but it seems that below $4k you get a choice of detail or "organic" musicality.

 

One of the DACs on my short list is the Vega. I am wondering if anyone with a Vega had ever had the chance to compare it to the W4S DAC2 and what you thought.

 

The other DAC on my short list is the ExaSound e20/22. I am open to other suggestions but really like the remote volume control.

 

Thanks!


"Don't Believe Everything You Think"

System

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I am thinking about finding a replacement/upgrade for my Wyred 4 Sound DAC2 DSDse. Over time I am finding that although it is amazingly transparent with remarkable detail it sometimes feels a bit clinical or bright. I used to have another Saber DAC, the TP Buffalo, and it was worse. Funny but it seems that below $4k you get a choice of detail or "organic" musicality.

 

One of the DACs on my short list is the Vega. I am wondering if anyone with a Vega had ever had the chance to compare it to the W4S DAC2 and what you thought.

 

The other DAC on my short list is the ExaSound e20/22. I am open to other suggestions but really like the remote volume control.

 

Thanks!

 

Most of the reviews I read on the Vega seemed to think it was better with a preamp than used as a preamp.

 

Before I bought a Vega, I talked with a dealer that sold both the Wyred 4 Sound DAC2 DSDse and the Vega. I asked which he preferred and while he did answer Vega, it was not a quick resolute answer.

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I compared the W4S DAC2 SE and the Vega for a full week in my home. The W4S was/is exactly as you explain clean and bright... the Vega is much more musical.

 

As I explained burn in above, the W4S was out in front on the first few days, then the Vega caught up, then over took on pure musical enjoyment.

 

I had hyped myself up over the exotic resistors in the W4S and it's obvious that it resolves detail at incredible levels, I wanted it to sound better (to save a thousand pounds)... but it does not sound; lush, smooth and sweet, like the Vega does (which is 99% as resolving in any case).

 

... the Vega stayed, you can listen to it all night, it invites you to.

 

;-)

 

 

I am thinking about finding a replacement/upgrade for my Wyred 4 Sound DAC2 DSDse. Over time I am finding that although it is amazingly transparent with remarkable detail it sometimes feels a bit clinical or bright. I used to have another Saber DAC, the TP Buffalo, and it was worse. Funny but it seems that below $4k you get a choice of detail or "organic" musicality.

 

One of the DACs on my short list is the Vega. I am wondering if anyone with a Vega had ever had the chance to compare it to the W4S DAC2 and what you thought.

 

The other DAC on my short list is the ExaSound e20/22. I am open to other suggestions but really like the remote volume control.

 

Thanks!

Source:

*Aurender N100 (no internal disk : LAN optically isolated via FMC with *LPS) > DIY 5cm USB link (5v rail removed / ground lift switch - split for *LPS) > Intona Industrial (injected *LPS / internally shielded with copper tape) > DIY 5cm USB link (5v rail removed / ground lift switch) > W4S Recovery (*LPS) > DIY 2cm USB adaptor (5v rail removed / ground lift switch) > *Auralic VEGA (EXACT : balanced)

 

Control:

*Jeff Rowland CAPRI S2 (balanced)

 

Playback:

2 x Revel B15a subs (balanced) > ATC SCM 50 ASL (balanced - 80Hz HPF from subs)

 

Misc:

*Via Power Inspired AG1500 AC Regenerator

LPS: 3 x Swagman Lab Audiophile Signature Edition (W4S, Intona & FMC)

Storage: QNAP TS-253Pro 2x 3Tb, 8Gb RAM

Cables: DIY heavy gauge solid silver (balanced)

Mains: dedicated distribution board with 5 x 2 socket ring mains, all mains cables: Mark Grant Black Series DSP 2.5 Dual Screen

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Agree, it's remarkable for the coin... a world class DAC.

 

Yes, it does sound better with a preamp (unless you can keep the volume above 70, given its hot output many can't).

 

 

I'm a bit biased as I own two Vega's but I think you will be hard pressed to find anything that is as good without spending many many times more.

Source:

*Aurender N100 (no internal disk : LAN optically isolated via FMC with *LPS) > DIY 5cm USB link (5v rail removed / ground lift switch - split for *LPS) > Intona Industrial (injected *LPS / internally shielded with copper tape) > DIY 5cm USB link (5v rail removed / ground lift switch) > W4S Recovery (*LPS) > DIY 2cm USB adaptor (5v rail removed / ground lift switch) > *Auralic VEGA (EXACT : balanced)

 

Control:

*Jeff Rowland CAPRI S2 (balanced)

 

Playback:

2 x Revel B15a subs (balanced) > ATC SCM 50 ASL (balanced - 80Hz HPF from subs)

 

Misc:

*Via Power Inspired AG1500 AC Regenerator

LPS: 3 x Swagman Lab Audiophile Signature Edition (W4S, Intona & FMC)

Storage: QNAP TS-253Pro 2x 3Tb, 8Gb RAM

Cables: DIY heavy gauge solid silver (balanced)

Mains: dedicated distribution board with 5 x 2 socket ring mains, all mains cables: Mark Grant Black Series DSP 2.5 Dual Screen

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Agree, it's remarkable for the coin... a world class DAC.

 

Yes, it does sound better with a preamp (unless you can keep the volume above 70, given its hot output many can't).

 

Thanks much to those who replied.

 

I do have a pre but it is nearly a buffer at 3db max gain. My W4S also has a hot output at I believe 2.5 volts. With the Vega I should be able to use the analog pot on my DHT pre to allow it to run at nearly full output.

 

With my W4S I find myself noticing the remarkable detail and thinking "Wow. I never heard that chair squeak before" instead of just being moved by the music itself. I think this may be common with Saber based DACs.

 

Now, where did I put that Visa card and what can I tell my wife :-)


"Don't Believe Everything You Think"

System

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