Jump to content

USB cable comparisons


Recommended Posts

I think they are used as patch cables for USB routers.  The 100 ohms would not be out spec because USB is 90 ohms (+-15%),  this is 100 ohms (+-5%).  It works fine for me you don't have buy one...  I'll see if I can dig up the schematic; it shows how they are wired.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

21 hours ago, reverendo said:

Gentlemen, I think we have had enough fun with the off-topic discussion. It was interesting and mostly civil, but I would suggest we get back to the topic of the thread, which is comparison of USB cables and their sonic impact upon our systems.

I anyone wants to question the premises for this endeavor, they are welcome to do so in a new thread, but, from now on, please refrain from taking this topic hostage. I will gladly participate in any other thread that will be created in regards to this interesting topic, but, from now on, I will report further off-topic comments.

Thanks so much in advance.

Reverendo, I'm looking forward to your Gekko USB cable comparison (not the black entry-level one you have already tested)! :)

 

Triangle Magellan Concerto 2 < AQ Everest < Vitus Audio SS-010 Mk2 < AQ Dragon High Current < AQ WEL XLR < Chord Qutest DAC w UpTone JS-2 & AQ Dragon Source < AQ Diamond USB < Innuos Phoenix USB w AQ Dragon Source < Aurender N100H & AQ Dragon Source < NetGear GS105GE Switch w UpTone LPS1.2 < Supra CAT8 Ethernet < Gryphon PowerZone w AQ NRG-Wild < Stillpoints UltraSS, Ansuz Darkz D-TC & D2, Omicron Harmonic Stabilizer, Gold Evolution SE & Classic < Furutech FT-SWS (R) < Synergistic Research Orange Quantum Fuse < Solid Tech Hybrid < GigaWatt G-16A 2P Circuit Breaker

Link to comment
Share on other sites

2 hours ago, The Computer Audiophile said:

My humor didn’t come through correctly. Sal used the word entitled amd I couldn’t resist using it back. ?

I suppose you could include an emoticon like this to capture that intended state of mind. tongue in cheek.jpg

"Relax, it's only hi-fi. There's never been a hi-fi emergency." - Roy Hall

"Not everything that can be counted counts, and not everything that counts can be counted." - William Bruce Cameron

 

Link to comment
Share on other sites

1 hour ago, lmitche said:

I had one here. My hope of improving SQ with a split cable were dashed after break-in and  first listen. It was returned. YMMV.

 

 

Thank you for your findings.

 

I asked about it a few weeks ago, before the trolls came and fouled the nest, but Ill re-ask as surely someone has tried it - does anyone have experience with the Chord Shawline USB cable?

 

Link to comment
Share on other sites

8 hours ago, lmitche said:

I had one here. My hope of improving SQ with a split cable were dashed after break-in and  first listen. It was returned. YMMV.

How did this cable let itself down in your system?

 

I’m decided on getting a Sablon Panetella Reserva Elite cable after recently comparing it with my Lush and Curious cables but first want to hear back from SOtM with their thoughts on me taking advantage of both of the tX-USBultra’s USB outputs with a cable like the Pangea Premier XL.  

 

The Panatela has separate runs of cable for data and power between the A and B connectors and I am wondering if I can get even better performance from this cable by giving each run its own A connector.  The idea being that I would connect the data line to a tX-U output with 5v turned off and connect the power line to the other powered output.  My Paul Hynes SR4 should have enough grunt (2.5A continuous at 9V) to comfortably drive both outputs, though not sure if much extra power is needed to do this.

Zenith SE > USPCB (5v off) > tX-USBultra 9V (SR4) > Sablon Reserva Elite USB > M Scaler > WAVE Stream bnc > DAVE > Prion4/Lazuli Reference > Utopia/LCD-4/HE1000se

Link to comment
Share on other sites

18 hours ago, HumanMedia said:

 

 

Thank you for your findings.

 

I asked about it a few weeks ago, before the trolls came and fouled the nest, but Ill re-ask as surely someone has tried it - does anyone have experience with the Chord Shawline USB cable?

 

I use the signature aray at home and had tried it against the c-line. At home, this cable easily delivered better placement, yet when I tried it on a LMS (lesser musical system), it was almost indistinguishable to the c-line cable, which was a little alarming considering the price differences (LMS: i5 Laptop, JRiver, Arcam a39, teac UD-501 and Kef R700, Chord cabling - Music: Standard CD (accurate rip - wav files) plus 96/24 & 192/24 files)

 

So, if I was struggling to experience  a difference on a LMS. I would say that in order to experience a better result, you’d need the right level of toys between it to appreciate what it can do. £2.5k - £3.5k might not be enough to experience what the cable has to offer as I didn’t experience a difference

 

hope that helps 

Link to comment
Share on other sites

4 hours ago, Shanepj said:

I use the signature aray at home and had tried it against the c-line. At home, this cable easily delivered better placement, yet when I tried it on a LMS (lesser musical system), it was almost indistinguishable to the c-line cable, which was a little alarming considering the price differences (LMS: i5 Laptop, JRiver, Arcam a39, teac UD-501 and Kef R700, Chord cabling - Music: Standard CD (accurate rip - wav files) plus 96/24 & 192/24 files)

 

So, if I was struggling to experience  a difference on a LMS. I would say that in order to experience a better result, you’d need the right level of toys between it to appreciate what it can do. £2.5k - £3.5k might not be enough to experience what the cable has to offer as I didn’t experience a difference

 

hope that helps 

 

Hugely helpful.

How would you characterise the differences when you could hear them?

You mention better placement (soundstage?), are there any tonal differences across the frequency range? Any textural differences?  All or any further details would be great.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

I posted this in another thread but it would seem to be useful here. I've had issues with noise appearing at my active speakers (system is computer --> DAC --> active speakers). The computer is connected via a USB cable to the DAC. I've tried several and the one with the lowest noise was a fairly cheap Fisual USB 2.0 A-B cable. It's double-shielded and has all but removed the interference noise that I was hearing at my speakers. If I put back any of the other USB cables then the noise comes back.

 

It's this one here: https://www.audiovisualonline.co.uk/product/6249/fisual-havana-usb-2-0-cable-0-9m/

 

A very cost-effective upgrade for me. In terms of sound difference, it has lifted the sound which was a little flat and there are better highs and lows now, a little more depth and a simply more musical sound.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

18 hours ago, HumanMedia said:

 

Hugely helpful.

How would you characterise the differences when you could hear them?

You mention better placement (soundstage?), are there any tonal differences across the frequency range? Any textural differences?  All or any further details would be great.

Yeah, the soundstage was further improved allowing me to better place where record producer wanted the band members. As for frequencies and textures, I didn’t detect anything

Link to comment
Share on other sites

5 hours ago, Taz777 said:

I posted this in another thread but it would seem to be useful here. I've had issues with noise appearing at my active speakers (system is computer --> DAC --> active speakers). The computer is connected via a USB cable to the DAC. I've tried several and the one with the lowest noise was a fairly cheap Fisual USB 2.0 A-B cable. It's double-shielded and has all but removed the interference noise that I was hearing at my speakers. If I put back any of the other USB cables then the noise comes back.

 

It's this one here: https://www.audiovisualonline.co.uk/product/6249/fisual-havana-usb-2-0-cable-0-9m/

 

A very cost-effective upgrade for me. In terms of sound difference, it has lifted the sound which was a little flat and there are better highs and lows now, a little more depth and a simply more musical sound.

As all cables are basically aerials, unwanted interference can be a problem and although a digital cable is either sending information or not,  I would surmise that the shielding on the Fisual cable is doing it job properly. 

 

On another note, I would try and find out where the unwanted interference is coming from as you may further improve what you have already experienced 

Link to comment
Share on other sites

13 hours ago, Taz777 said:

I posted this in another thread but it would seem to be useful here. I've had issues with noise appearing at my active speakers (system is computer --> DAC --> active speakers). The computer is connected via a USB cable to the DAC. I've tried several and the one with the lowest noise was a fairly cheap Fisual USB 2.0 A-B cable. It's double-shielded and has all but removed the interference noise that I was hearing at my speakers. If I put back any of the other USB cables then the noise comes back.

 

It's this one here: https://www.audiovisualonline.co.uk/product/6249/fisual-havana-usb-2-0-cable-0-9m/

 

A very cost-effective upgrade for me. In terms of sound difference, it has lifted the sound which was a little flat and there are better highs and lows now, a little more depth and a simply more musical sound.

 

Very interesting, thanks for reposting here. I’ve never heard of this one. I’m particularly interested in these budget cables. Surely someone will make a tightly specced low cost USB that also sounds good? The Chord is the best I’ve found so far from all of the low end cables I’ve tried. Actually the UpTone USBPC is the best but I cant use that anymore due to space constraints and it physical limitations.

 

Fingers crossed UpTone do a short length flexible connector that they have alluded to in the past. Or someone else does and doesn’t charge insulting prices for it. I will have to try the Fisual.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

22 hours ago, Shanepj said:

On another note, I would try and find out where the unwanted interference is coming from as you may further improve what you have already experienced 

 

Eliminating the noise at its source is, of course, preferable. Also, have you tried placing a ferrite core around USB cable close to the where it enters the DAC? If you can otherwise get rid of the noise, you might find that improved sound quality is achievable with a better USB cable.

"Relax, it's only hi-fi. There's never been a hi-fi emergency." - Roy Hall

"Not everything that can be counted counts, and not everything that counts can be counted." - William Bruce Cameron

 

Link to comment
Share on other sites

On 9/27/2018 at 7:20 PM, Shanepj said:

On another note, I would try and find out where the unwanted interference is coming from as you may further improve what you have already experienced 

 

I did some experimenting today and the issue is the right digital audio channel out of the iMac's USB port. I swapped my active speakers around and the noise at maximum gain on the speakers was still present in the right speaker. I swapped XLR cables around - same results. At 0dB volume gain on there speakers I don't hear it and that's fine for me. It just seems to be a shortcoming of the 2017 iMac computer and Apple doesn't provide any other means of digital output on that particular model.

 

I also tried using other USB ports to no avail. I've gone through five different USB cables (four A-B and one C-B), three sets of interconnects from DAC to speakers (XLR-XLR, RCA-RCA, RCA-XLR). The Fisual USB 2.0 A-B from iMac to DAC provided me with the cleanest sound from my iMac to my DAC. Just looking at the cable I can see that it is a thick and fairly stiff cable so is substantially made.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • 1 month later...
  • 1 month later...
15 hours ago, reverendo said:

Just wanted to update you guys on my latest USB cable comparison:

I compared the FTA Callisto USB cable to the Light Harmonic Lightspeed 10G and the entry-level Gekko USB cables in my system.

 

Terrific write up and a great description of the sonic impacts.  How much is the Callisto?

 

Home: Melco N1A/2 | EtherRegen+Farad | UltraRendu+Farad | Denafrips Gaia | Denafrips Terminator Plus | Jeff Rowland Coherence II Series 2 pre | Blue Circle Audio BC-202 amp | Raidho XT-1 | 2 Revel Performa3 B112 subwoofers  | PS Audio DS Power Plant 12 

Home Office: IsoRegen+LPS1.2 | Denafrips Iris | Denafrips Venus 2 | Blue Circle Audio SBT preamp|  Eddie Current Zana Deux Super | Hifiman HE-1000SE | PS Audio DS Power Plant 12

Office:  Holo Audio Spring 3 KTE w/preamp module | Blue Circle Audio BC-28 amp | Raidho X-1 | REL T/5x sub

Link to comment
Share on other sites

30 minutes ago, Blake said:

 

Terrific write up and a great description of the sonic impacts.  How much is the Callisto?

 

oops, forgot to mention that. 750 Euro (app. US$850) for 1m. not cheap, but again, less than the cable it clearly surpassed.

LDMS Minix Server>Lampizator TRP w/ VC>Gryphon Diablo>Heil Kithara

Cables: Douglas Cables 'Mirage'', (Power); Douglas Cables 'Mirage' (XLR); Douglas Cables "GLIA" (speaker cables & jumper); FTA Callisto (USB)

Accessories: Furutech GTX-D (G) with cover, MIT Z Duplex Super; Equitech Balanced Power, Sistrum (for Diablo & TRP)

Link to comment
Share on other sites

On 12/13/2018 at 6:14 PM, reverendo said:

oops, forgot to mention that. 750 Euro (app. US$850) for 1m. not cheap, but again, less than the cable it clearly surpassed.

 

Do FTA have a homepage or any info about on the web?

Thanks

 

Matt

"I want to know why the musicians are on stage, not where". (John Farlowe)

 

Link to comment
Share on other sites

On 12/13/2018 at 6:14 PM, reverendo said:

750 Euro (app. US$850) for 1m. not cheap, but again, less than the cable it clearly surpassed.

 

Any comparison to an appreciated cheaper cable, maybe the original Lush?

Thanks

 

Matt

"I want to know why the musicians are on stage, not where". (John Farlowe)

 

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share



×
×
  • Create New...