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So does John Kenny,and many members of his forum. Several members of another forum did a group buy of long expensive USB cables and cut them into shorter lengths with new plugs fitted. I use the shortest possible USB cables with Vbus disconnected at the PC end of the cable. Unfortunately you are unable to do that for some gear.IIRC, Martin also said something about coiled up cables ???

Regards

Alex

 

Could it be impedance issues, ie longer lengths expose wrong impedance values?

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For the last month I have the JKDAC32 connected to the MacMini by a pair of usb adaptors as recommended at: Improving USB Audio - Hiface Modifications & Ancillaries

My previous cable was a Chord Silver plus 75cm.

I found the SQ changed markedly using the adaptors resulting in increased clarity, definition and bass extension - an improvement in SQ overall. The JKDAC is a relative small, battery powered device and is amenable to this type of connection but may be inconvenient for other setups.

IMHO well worth the $10 investment if the configuration suits.

Mark.

Main: Roon->Auralic Polaris ->Chord Silver Carnival ->Martin Logan EM-ESL

Office: Roon->iMac 2017->Auralic Aries Mini->Chord Mojo->PS Audio Sprout->Harbeth P3ESR or Stax SR-L500

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For the last month I have the JKDAC32 connected to the MacMini by a pair of usb adaptors as recommended at: Improving USB Audio - Hiface Modifications & Ancillaries

My previous cable was a Chord Silver plus 75cm.

I found the SQ changed markedly using the adaptors resulting in increased clarity, definition and bass extension - an improvement in SQ overall. The JKDAC is a relative small, battery powered device and is amenable to this type of connection but may be inconvenient for other setups.

IMHO well worth the $10 investment if the configuration suits.

Mark.

 

I ordered this one to connect my iUSB power supply to my V-Link 192. I would have liked to be able to use another one to connect my Squeezebox Touch to my iUSB but it's physically impossible. Even if I get good results I will most likely order the Gemini "Y" cable when it becomes available. Hopefully they'll offer a very short version. I'll also be looking for a good, short, reasonably priced, cable to go from the Touch to the iUSB. Any suggestions?

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Robert Harley and I have different tastes in equipment (sound I mean) - usually stuff he thinks is exceptional I recognize as exceptional, but find I don't really like as much as other gear. I am very sure that is personal preference though! :)

 

-Paul

 

 

QUOTE]

 

Not a preference thing I was bringing attention too. It was the brightness issue with silver cables and with the Audioquest Diamond specifically I was commenting on. In Bob's review (and according to everyone else that has listened to this cable here at my place), the Diamond is one of the least bright sounding USB cables we have heard and if anything find them to be extended but slightly smooth. I have found the opposite with the Carbon and so have a number of guys that have traded it in. I find the carbon brighter by a small margin than the Diamond so go figure. In fact the one comment heard most often about the Diamond is "lovely strings!".

 

Guess it's just system dependent.

 

I own both the Audioquest Carbon and Diamond USB cables. I bought the Carbon first. I decided it had the tonal qualities I liked but was not extended on the top and was veiled a little in the midrange. The Diamond USB cable is a lot better in all areas compared to the Carbon cable. There is no way I would consider either of these cables bright at all. I have tried my Diamond USB cable in many of my friends system always improving the sound except for one system which was cabled to hot. The Diamond cable in that system sounded a little brittle which I did not like. The Carbon was a better match though veiled in the mid range.

AMR 777 DAC, Purist Ultimate USB, PC server 4gig SOTM USB, server 2012, Audiophil Optimizer,Joule Preamp LAP150 Platinum Vcaps Bybee, Spectron Monoblocks Bybee Vcaps, Eggleston Savoy speakers, 2 REL Stentor III subwoofers, Pranawire Cosmos speaker wire, Purist Dominus Praesto cabling, Purist Anniversary (Canorus)power cables and Elrod Statement Gold power cable, VPI Aries I SDS w/Grado The Statement LP, 11kVA power isolation, 16 sound panels and bass traps TAD,RPG,GIK and Realtraps

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I ordered this one to connect my iUSB power supply to my V-Link 192. I would have liked to be able to use another one to connect my Squeezebox Touch to my iUSB but it's physically impossible. Even if I get good results I will most likely order the Gemini "Y" cable when it becomes available. Hopefully they'll offer a very short version. I'll also be looking for a good, short, reasonably priced, cable to go from the Touch to the iUSB. Any suggestions?

The Y Gemini cable goes from the iUSB Power to the Dac. There is only one USB input port on the iUSB and 2 exit ports to split power and Data.

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The Y Gemini cable goes from the iUSB Power to the Dac. There is only one USB input port on the iUSB and 2 exit ports to split power and Data.

 

Yes I know that's what I'll be using it for. The USB adapter that I ordered is only an inexpensive temporary solution. Right now I'm using a cheap 1m generic computer cable that I had lying around - less than perfect.

However I'll still need another "single" cable to go from my Squeezebox Touch to the iUSB.

I'm currently using the blue cable that came with the iUSB but I'm looking for a good shorter one instead. 6" would be fine. Most of the "audiophile" cables I've seen are at least .5 - .75m. I don't want anything too fancy.

I may be wrong but I have a feeling that a decent quality short cable will probably be as good if not better better than a long fancy(expensive) one. The "Y" cable is a different story.

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Yes I know that's what I'll be using it for. The USB adapter that I ordered is only an inexpensive temporary solution. Right now I'm using a cheap 1m generic computer cable that I had lying around - less than perfect.

However I'll still need another "single" cable to go from my Squeezebox Touch to the iUSB.

I'm currently using the blue cable that came with the iUSB but I'm looking for a good shorter one instead. 6" would be fine. Most of the "audiophile" cables I've seen are at least .5 - .75m. I don't want anything too fancy.

I may be wrong but I have a feeling that a decent quality short cable will probably be as good if not better better than a long fancy(expensive) one. The "Y" cable is a different story.

While I wait for the cables to arrive I'm being educated by all sorts of information on this thread.

Since I'm also using an SB Touch I'd be very curious in finding out if you have perceived any differences when using the iUSB. How large is it and how could it be used with the SBT?

Thanks a lot in advance

LDMS Minix Server>Lampizator TRP w/ VC>Gryphon Diablo>Heil Kithara

Cables: Douglas Cables 'Mirage'', (Power); Douglas Cables 'Mirage' (XLR); Douglas Cables "GLIA" (speaker cables & jumper); FTA Callisto (USB)

Accessories: Furutech GTX-D (G) with cover, MIT Z Duplex Super; Equitech Balanced Power, Sistrum (for Diablo & TRP)

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While I wait for the cables to arrive I'm being educated by all sorts of information on this thread.

Since I'm also using an SB Touch I'd be very curious in finding out if you have perceived any differences when using the iUSB. How large is it and how could it be used with the SBT?

Thanks a lot in advance

 

I have my Touch/EDO connected to the iUSB which feeds a V-Link 192 which is connected to my DAC via coax. I also occasionally use it in a computer to iUSB to V-Link to DAC setup.

Amongst other things it lowers the noise floor which generally makes things more coherent. It's quite small. Off hand I'd say about 3" x 6"

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I have my Touch/EDO connected to the iUSB which feeds a V-Link 192 which is connected to my DAC via coax. I also occasionally use it in a computer to iUSB to V-Link to DAC setup.

Amongst other things it lowers the noise floor which generally makes things more coherent. It's quite small. Off hand I'd say about 3" x 6"

Thanks for the swift reply. Does this mean that I would have to have two USB cables to use it?

LDMS Minix Server>Lampizator TRP w/ VC>Gryphon Diablo>Heil Kithara

Cables: Douglas Cables 'Mirage'', (Power); Douglas Cables 'Mirage' (XLR); Douglas Cables "GLIA" (speaker cables & jumper); FTA Callisto (USB)

Accessories: Furutech GTX-D (G) with cover, MIT Z Duplex Super; Equitech Balanced Power, Sistrum (for Diablo & TRP)

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the Mapleshade cables have arrived. They look very flimsy. Will put them in my system and do some comparisons the next few days.

LDMS Minix Server>Lampizator TRP w/ VC>Gryphon Diablo>Heil Kithara

Cables: Douglas Cables 'Mirage'', (Power); Douglas Cables 'Mirage' (XLR); Douglas Cables "GLIA" (speaker cables & jumper); FTA Callisto (USB)

Accessories: Furutech GTX-D (G) with cover, MIT Z Duplex Super; Equitech Balanced Power, Sistrum (for Diablo & TRP)

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Just did my first listening impressions with the Mapleshade USB cable. I let my system warm up playing random songs for quite a while during the morning and then went on to listen to my Test CD tracks (which I normally use to get an idea of what's going on). After that I exchanged the Locus Design Axis for the Mapleshade Clearlink USB with Plus Upgrade.

Here are the first impressions of the Clearlink Plus without burn-in:

  • right away quite a bit more spacious and clear than the Axis. Hearing details I had never heard before on very, very familiar tracks.
  • more holographic sound stage
  • felt as if a veil had been lifted (I know it's cliché, but describes it so well)
  • lets me look deep into the recording and the music at the same time. very natural.
  • LF are dry and fast, but are not focused nor detailed. a little bit like a camera that takes very fast photos, but pictures aren't focused nor defined and the colors are washed out. This becomes more evident with orchestra, especially strings and timpani.
  • the lack of definition and timbre in the LFs starts in the lower mids.

I don't know how this cable will evolve, but I'm extremely curious. It easliy topped the HF delicacy and refinement that I so liked in the Axis. I have the feeling that I have a giant killer on my hands. Let's see if the burn-in process gets the LFs right without mudding the mids and highs. Right out of the box I have no urge of putting the Axis back in again, but there have been times were the first impression got on my nerves. Curious about where this is going.

LDMS Minix Server>Lampizator TRP w/ VC>Gryphon Diablo>Heil Kithara

Cables: Douglas Cables 'Mirage'', (Power); Douglas Cables 'Mirage' (XLR); Douglas Cables "GLIA" (speaker cables & jumper); FTA Callisto (USB)

Accessories: Furutech GTX-D (G) with cover, MIT Z Duplex Super; Equitech Balanced Power, Sistrum (for Diablo & TRP)

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Thanks for the update. I look forward to your further impressions after burn-in. Given the massive difference in price compared to your Locus USB cable (the Locus USB cables have been some of the most highly regarded USB cables available anywhere regardless of cost), the Clearlink USB may just be a giant killer.

 

I ordered two Clearlinks with Plus upgrades on 12/27 but they have not arrived. Perhaps the Mapleshade employees took some time off for the holidays.

 

Once the Clearlinks arrive, I will be conducting a review similar to yours, comparing the Clearlink and the other USB cables I have on hand: the KingRex uArt Y, Nordost Blue Heaven, Audioquest Coffee, Audioquest Cinnamon, and iFi's new USB cable (forgot the name, I have it preordered, but it is supposed to arrive sometime this month). I have never really done head to head comparisons on USB cables so I am curious about my upcoming experiment.

Speaker Room: Lumin U1X | Lampizator Golden Gate 2 | Viva Linea | Vinnie Rossi L2 Signature Monoblocks | FinkTeam Kim | Revel subs  

Office Headphone System: Lumin U1X | Lampizator Big 7 updated to GG 2 specs | Viva Egoista | Hifiman HE-1000SE/Audeze LCD-4z

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Different types of USB cables can only do so much. It takes attention to detail in the USB power area to gain marked improvements in the LF area as well as right acrossd the board. There are quite a few threads about different products and methods to gain improvements there, including the SOtM USB power solutions.See also:

http://www.computeraudiophile.com/f6-dac-digital-analog-conversion/ifi-iusb-power-supply-neat-tweak-and-upgrade-usb-dac-13832/

 

How a Digital Audio file sounds, or a Digital Video file looks, is governed to a large extent by the Power Supply area. All that Identical Checksums gives is the possibility of REGENERATING the file to close to that of the original file.

PROFILE UPDATED 13-11-2020

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Thanks for the update. I look forward to your further impressions after burn-in. Given the massive difference in price compared to your Locus USB cable (the Locus USB cables have been some of the most highly regarded USB cables available anywhere regardless of cost), the Clearlink USB may just be a giant killer.

 

I ordered two Clearlinks with Plus upgrades on 12/27 but they have not arrived. Perhaps the Mapleshade employees took some time off for the holidays.

 

Once the Clearlinks arrive, I will be conducting a review similar to yours, comparing the Clearlink and the other USB cables I have on hand: the KingRex uArt Y, Nordost Blue Heaven, Audioquest Coffee, and iFi's new USB cable (forgot the name, I have it preordered, but it is supposed to arrive sometime this month).

Hi Blake,

will be looking forward to your comparisons. I might get the Blue Heaven and a Kimber, as I stated before, but I want to wait in order to have a fully burnt-in Mapleshade to make the comparison fair. seems I got lucky on the Mapleshades, since I order last week and got them yesterday. :)

 

Different types of USB cables can only do so much. It takes attention to detail in the USB power area to gain marked improvements in the LF area as well as right acrossd the board. There are quite a few threads about different products and methods to gain improvements there, including the SOtM USB power solutions.See also:

http://www.computeraudiophile.com/f6-dac-digital-analog-conversion/ifi-iusb-power-supply-neat-tweak-and-upgrade-usb-dac-13832/

I'm sure that there are things that can be done, but I had wonderful LF accuracy, timbre and depth with the Starlight. So I do hope that the Mapleshade get's better without losing it's present virtues. Since the iUSB needs two cables (which raises the cost) I'll refrain from looking into it at the moment.

LDMS Minix Server>Lampizator TRP w/ VC>Gryphon Diablo>Heil Kithara

Cables: Douglas Cables 'Mirage'', (Power); Douglas Cables 'Mirage' (XLR); Douglas Cables "GLIA" (speaker cables & jumper); FTA Callisto (USB)

Accessories: Furutech GTX-D (G) with cover, MIT Z Duplex Super; Equitech Balanced Power, Sistrum (for Diablo & TRP)

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Regarding the iUSB, I LOVE my iUSB and it is the best $200 I ever spent on an audio product (but then again, you do have the expense of an additional USB cable).

 

However, I am going to pull it out for my USB cable reviews as I don't have two of each type of USB cable models (other than the Clearlinks).

Speaker Room: Lumin U1X | Lampizator Golden Gate 2 | Viva Linea | Vinnie Rossi L2 Signature Monoblocks | FinkTeam Kim | Revel subs  

Office Headphone System: Lumin U1X | Lampizator Big 7 updated to GG 2 specs | Viva Egoista | Hifiman HE-1000SE/Audeze LCD-4z

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Just did my first listening impressions with the Mapleshade USB cable. I let my system warm up playing random songs for quite a while during the morning and then went on to listen to my Test CD tracks (which I normally use to get an idea of what's going on). After that I exchanged the Locus Design Axis for the Mapleshade Clearlink USB with Plus Upgrade.

Here are the first impressions of the Clearlink Plus without burn-in:

  • right away quite a bit more spacious and clear than the Axis. Hearing details I had never heard before on very, very familiar tracks.
  • more holographic sound stage
  • felt as if a veil had been lifted (I know it's cliché, but describes it so well)
  • lets me look deep into the recording and the music at the same time. very natural.
  • LF are dry and fast, but are not focused nor detailed. a little bit like a camera that takes very fast photos, but pictures aren't focused nor defined and the colors are washed out. This becomes more evident with orchestra, especially strings and timpani.
  • the lack of definition and timbre in the LFs starts in the lower mids.

I don't know how this cable will evolve, but I'm extremely curious. It easliy topped the HF delicacy and refinement that I so liked in the Axis. I have the feeling that I have a giant killer on my hands. Let's see if the burn-in process gets the LFs right without mudding the mids and highs. Right out of the box I have no urge of putting the Axis back in again, but there have been times were the first impression got on my nerves. Curious about where this is going.

 

Your impressions very much track mine after the first day. If I remember, Mapleshade recommends a long burn-in period for the Clearlink with Plus upgrade (maybe as much as 200 hours?).

 

If your experience continues as mine did, yes, the bass does improve and become very nicely detailed. Something that helped improve it further was the Mapleshade power strip and power cord.

One never knows, do one? - Fats Waller

The fairest thing we can experience is the mysterious. It is the fundamental emotion which stands at the cradle of true art and true science. - Einstein

Computer, Audirvana -> optical to EtherREGEN -> microRendu -> ISO Regen -> iFi NEO iDSD DAC -> Apollon Audio 1ET400A Mini (Purifi based) -> Vandersteen 3A Signature.

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Since the iUSB needs two cables (which raises the cost) I'll refrain from looking into it at the moment.

 

Yes, this has kept me off too. If only it worked "in line" so that only 1 USB cable would be needed, I would definitively give it a try.

1. ITX PC - Mola Mola Makua - Apollon NC800SL - Thiel CS3.7

2. LG 77C1 - Marantz SR7005 - Apollon NCMP6200 - Monitor Audio PL100+PLC150+C265 - SVS SB-3000

3. PC - RME ADI-2 DAC FS - Audeze LCDi3 - Neumann KH 80 DSP

4. Phone - TempoTec Sonata E44 - Moondrop Aria

5. PC - Meizu HiFi DAC - Moondrop Chu

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The entire principle is to CUT any connection to the PC power, so yes, you need 2 cables, but as Ted says, when the ifi Gemini and the straight cable comes out, a .75m length will be $75 so 2 of them will be $150 and that is not exorbitant. In any case, you get the short blue cable for free and really only need the Gemini cable for $75 total... The blue cable is quite competent!

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The entire principle is to CUT any connection to the PC power, so yes, you need 2 cables, but as Ted says, when the ifi Gemini and the straight cable comes out, a .75m length will be $75 so 2 of them will be $150 and that is not exorbitant. In any case, you get the short blue cable for free and really only need the Gemini cable for $75 total... The blue cable is quite competent!

I think that it would only make some real sense if the iUSB render using a good USB cable superfluous, which doesn't seem to be the case. 2x WW Platinum + iUSB is still $1200, for example. If the Mapleshade really gives me the results I'm looking and hoping for I just might give the iUSB a try.

LDMS Minix Server>Lampizator TRP w/ VC>Gryphon Diablo>Heil Kithara

Cables: Douglas Cables 'Mirage'', (Power); Douglas Cables 'Mirage' (XLR); Douglas Cables "GLIA" (speaker cables & jumper); FTA Callisto (USB)

Accessories: Furutech GTX-D (G) with cover, MIT Z Duplex Super; Equitech Balanced Power, Sistrum (for Diablo & TRP)

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I think that it would only make some real sense if the iUSB render using a good USB cable superfluous, which doesn't seem to be the case. 2x WW Platinum + iUSB is still $1200, for example. If the Mapleshade really gives me the results I'm looking and hoping for I just might give the iUSB a try.

 

 

My Mapleshade Clearlinks (2) arrived last night. I inserted them into my system, one Clearlink going from my Mac to my iFi iUSB, and one Clearlink going from my iUSB to my uLink.

 

And........ no sound.

 

After much experimentation, it turns out that for some strange reason, the Clearlinks only work from my Mac to my iUSB. They will not work from my iUSB to my uLink. All my other USB cables could be swapped in and out at either segment with no issues whatsoever.

 

With a Clearlink inserted from my iUSB to my uLink, in my Mac sound settings, my Mac does not show my uLink as the device. In other words, my Mac is not detecting my uLink as the sound device if a Clearlink is inserted from my iUSB to my uLink.

 

If I swap out the Clearlink for any other USB cable, my Mac detects my uLink as the sound device and my uLink appears in my Mac settings as the sound device, and everything works great.

Again, both Clearlinks were inserted from my Mac to my iUSB and both worked without problem so the Clearlinks will work in that spot.

 

I am totally stumped on this one. Will call Mapleshade today.

 

Does anyone have ideas on this one? Until I get this sorted out, I would be cautious if anyone is planning on using the Clearlinks with the iUSB.

Speaker Room: Lumin U1X | Lampizator Golden Gate 2 | Viva Linea | Vinnie Rossi L2 Signature Monoblocks | FinkTeam Kim | Revel subs  

Office Headphone System: Lumin U1X | Lampizator Big 7 updated to GG 2 specs | Viva Egoista | Hifiman HE-1000SE/Audeze LCD-4z

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My Mapleshade Clearlinks (2) arrived last night. I inserted them into my system, one Clearlink going from my Mac to my iFi iUSB, and one Clearlink going from my iUSB to my uLink.

 

And........ no sound.

 

After much experimentation, it turns out that for some strange reason, the Clearlinks only work from my Mac to my iUSB. They will not work from my iUSB to my uLink. All my other USB cables could be swapped in and out at either segment with no issues whatsoever.

 

With a Clearlink inserted from my iUSB to my uLink, in my Mac sound settings, my Mac does not show my uLink as the device. In other words, my Mac is not detecting my uLink as the sound device if a Clearlink is inserted from my iUSB to my uLink.

 

If I swap out the Clearlink for any other USB cable, my Mac detects my uLink as the sound device and my uLink appears in my Mac settings as the sound device, and everything works great.

Again, both Clearlinks were inserted from my Mac to my iUSB and both worked without problem so the Clearlinks will work in that spot.

 

I am totally stumped on this one. Will call Mapleshade today.

 

Does anyone have ideas on this one? Until I get this sorted out, I would be cautious if anyone is planning on using the Clearlinks with the iUSB.

 

I got a PM from Alain with a very similar problem (intermittent loss of lock with iUSB and two Clearlinks, no problem with one Clearlink).

 

It really seems to me that between the fervor for converters and the iUSB, boxen are multiplying like rabbits, and I am not at all sure it's a good thing for ultimate sound quality, aside from any other issues (such as yours and Alain's) it may cause. This is why I asked about comparing the sound with just the Clearlink without the iUSB (assuming those with converters don't wish to or can't get rid of them, so if one box has to go...) to configurations that include the iUSB.

One never knows, do one? - Fats Waller

The fairest thing we can experience is the mysterious. It is the fundamental emotion which stands at the cradle of true art and true science. - Einstein

Computer, Audirvana -> optical to EtherREGEN -> microRendu -> ISO Regen -> iFi NEO iDSD DAC -> Apollon Audio 1ET400A Mini (Purifi based) -> Vandersteen 3A Signature.

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I think that it would only make some real sense if the iUSB render using a good USB cable superfluous, which doesn't seem to be the case. 2x WW Platinum + iUSB is still $1200, for example. If the Mapleshade really gives me the results I'm looking and hoping for I just might give the iUSB a try.

 

I think there is an assumption going on here that may be off, or at least is not guaranteed. I see know reason why it is a sure thing that the best sound will be attained using the same (matched) cabling. It is possible, but to me more likely that different cables would excel in different positions. In fact, it may be the best of both worlds sort of situation. Unfortunately it does create additional work due to the number of combinations.

Forrest:

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DSD>Pavel's DSC2.6>Bent Audio TAP>

Parasound JC1>"Naked" Quad ESL63/Tannoy PS350B subs<100Hz

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