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From a Lumin D2 user: https://community.roonlabs.com/t/leedh-processing-perfect-digital-volume-control/39118/29?u=wklie

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Referring to the title “Perfect Digital Volume Control?” I would have to reply with a resounding “YES!”
As it is these days - I had quite some time available for tinkering with my system and so I activated Leedh on my Lumin D2 (with LPS) and took the pre-amp (Pass XP-10) out of the chain.
I did not really expect much from the change (especially after a few hickups in the beginning, which were entirely my own fault), but what can I say …?
I was totally blown away by the difference in sound!

 

Peter Lie

LUMIN Firmware Lead

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On 6/6/2020 at 12:05 AM, Roy Boy said:

In my test I was playing back vinyl that had been ripped at 24/382 with an RME ADI-2 Pro ADC. I first played them

in my normal mode  (Lumin - TRL Dude Pre - TRL Samson amps - Green Mountain Audio C-3 HX). Then I re-cabled to

remove the TRL Dude Pre. All the cabling was Silent Source.  I need to do more testing but my initial reaction was that there was more clarity and detail and also more body to the instuments and more dynamics with no apparent trade-offs so far (other than being limited to one source input.).

 

I have done enough testing that I know I want to be able to connect my Lumin A1 directly to my amps, however I have other needs in my system... I have a phono preamp, I have an integrated surround sound system where I take the L-R output of the surround processor into my preamp... I also current take the XLR outputs of the Lumin A1 run that into a Jensen ISOMAX (isolation transformer) and send those outputs to my master bedroom system.  I also drive a pair of Seaton Submersive subs via a DBX PA-2 drive rack currently via a 2nd set of outputs of my preamp.

   I have just been re-cabling to do the Lumin directly to the amps but getting to the cables in my rack and recabling is just a pain to do on a regular basis.  After much thought I am going to try the Manley Skipjack to satisfy all these needs. I have not received it yet, but created a diagram of my to-be state of routing. It will be interesting to see how this works out. Hoping the Skipjack is as transparent as they say. I had a Burson AB-160 buffer with two inputs and tried to put that between my preamp and amps so I could connect the Lumin directly to the amps. It worked but it was not transparent enough. I lost too much of the magic. It also would not easily let me connect the subs

 

 

Audio System Routing with Lumin Direct.pdf

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The Skipjack looks pretty interesting.  Because I use XLR exclusively, I chose another route.  I have my X1 going into a 4 in 1 out manual switchbox the output of which goes to the front L/R mono amps.  I also needed to take the output of my H.T. Processor, and a digital output of the X1 so I can use my subwoofer when I want to, so I take front L/R outputs of that box to another input of the manual switch box.  Another input is dedicated to the iFi Pro iDSD that I sometimes use to compare to the sound of the X1 and the fourth and final input of the box is to take the output of a Questyle Twelve Master to also challenge the status quo of he X1 and the iDSD.  (Note:  The manual switch box is also remotely controllable as I have my daughter and wife trained to make the input selections on verbal command.)  Just kidding!

 

Enjoy the music!

Lumin X1, iFi PRO iDSD, iFi PRO iCAN, Questyle Twelve (Master), Marantz AV8805, McIntosh MC1201s Front L/R with Bryston powering the remaining 5 channels, B&W N-801s, B&W HTM-1 in Tiger Eye, B&W 801 IIIs on the sides and in the rear, JL F212 sub, ReVOX PR-99Mk II, Rega P10 and Alpheta 3, PS Audio Nuwave Phono Amp, Audeze LCD-4 and LCD-XC, Ultimate Ears UE-18, Sony CD3000 rebuilt, Sony VPL-VW995ES, Joe Kane Affinity 120" screen, Cables: Cardas Clear Beyond speaker, Wireworld Platinum Elite 7 RCA, custom (by me) XLRs using affordable, quality parts 🙂

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6 hours ago, BlueSkyy said:

The Skipjack looks pretty interesting.  Because I use XLR exclusively, I chose another route.  I have my X1 going into a 4 in 1 out manual switchbox the output of which goes to the front L/R mono amps.  I also needed to take the output of my H.T. Processor, and a digital output of the X1 so I can use my subwoofer when I want to, so I take front L/R outputs of that box to another input of the manual switch box.  Another input is dedicated to the iFi Pro iDSD that I sometimes use to compare to the sound of the X1 and the fourth and final input of the box is to take the output of a Questyle Twelve Master to also challenge the status quo of he X1 and the iDSD.  (Note:  The manual switch box is also remotely controllable as I have my daughter and wife trained to make the input selections on verbal command.)  Just kidding!

 

Enjoy the music!

What make and model is the manual switchbox please?

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4 hours ago, vintageaxeman said:

What make and model is the manual switchbox please?

Hi.  It's a Kramer VS-4X.  Seems to be of good quality and I can't hear any derogation of the sound quality.

 

On a side note and because of your screen name, are you aware of any site that is involved with vintage guitar amps like Vox or Marshall?  I was a member of a site that went belly up some time ago and I need to contact someone regarding replacement circuit boards for Vox amps.  Thanks if you have any information regarding vintage amps.  PM me if more appropriate.

Lumin X1, iFi PRO iDSD, iFi PRO iCAN, Questyle Twelve (Master), Marantz AV8805, McIntosh MC1201s Front L/R with Bryston powering the remaining 5 channels, B&W N-801s, B&W HTM-1 in Tiger Eye, B&W 801 IIIs on the sides and in the rear, JL F212 sub, ReVOX PR-99Mk II, Rega P10 and Alpheta 3, PS Audio Nuwave Phono Amp, Audeze LCD-4 and LCD-XC, Ultimate Ears UE-18, Sony CD3000 rebuilt, Sony VPL-VW995ES, Joe Kane Affinity 120" screen, Cables: Cardas Clear Beyond speaker, Wireworld Platinum Elite 7 RCA, custom (by me) XLRs using affordable, quality parts 🙂

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Has anyone with a Lumin X1 noticed a change in sound quality with the 13 and 13a firmware? I may be imagining it, but there seems to be a subtle change with the most recent firmware, and not necessarily for the better.

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There is digital audio path optimization for Lumin X1 T2 analog output since Firmware 13 (at volume 100).  I hope you find it to sound better as many users do, but if you think it's worse please let me know.

Peter Lie

LUMIN Firmware Lead

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@wklie

 

I also noticed that 13a sounds bad compared to 13.

Sounds harsh and a tad distorted to me.

Either the firmware or your LeedH volume crack damaged my ESL panels :(

Anyway to roll the firmware back?

 

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2 hours ago, EvilTed said:

I also noticed that 13a sounds bad compared to 13.

Sounds harsh and a tad distorted to me.

 

The only change between 13 and 13a is related to the use of an external USB MQA DAC.  It has no effect on anything else or analog output.

 

Please power cycle everything, including the whole network and the whole audio chain.

 

Try setting Analog Output Level to Low.

Peter Lie

LUMIN Firmware Lead

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6 hours ago, wklie said:

There is digital audio path optimization for Lumin X1 T2 analog output since Firmware 13 (at volume 100).  I hope you find it to sound better as many users do, but if you think it's worse please let me know.

 

I will try using the low volume setting. However, I find with Firmware 13 and 13a the sound is a little thinner and there is a little more background "hash" and high frequency noise. I definitely don't find it better.

 

Is there a way to roll back to the previous firmware?

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@wklie

 

Peter,

 

I power cycled the X1 and that brought everything back eventually. Took it a while for Roon to find it again. I was getting worried.

The harshness in the sound was gone, which is a relief.

Thanks

 

Anyway, I tried taking the preamp out of the circuit today and spent a whole afternoon listening to the X1 direct to the DSP.

It sounds better in some regards but tends to sound too digital for me.

 

Sure it's a little more transparent but people use tube amps with NOS tubes for a reason.

They are glorified tone controls, so when your system has been matched to the room using them, it sounds off removing them.

Just ask anyone who has ever owned a wood-bodied Koetsu.

Yes, cartridges such as Lyra are more accurate, but there is something about the mid-range coloration that is addictive.

Same with tubes.

 

I tried to love it but it's not very enjoyable to listen to for me.

A tad too clinical for my taste :(

 

 

 

 

 

 

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1 hour ago, EvilTed said:

Sure it's a little more transparent but people use tube amps with NOS tubes for a reason.

 

Thanks for the feedback.  I can totally respect that.  Someone in our company only uses 300B amp.  I even used one for a while.

Peter Lie

LUMIN Firmware Lead

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I have reinstalled the 12 firmware on my Lumin X1 (thanks @wklie) and the sound is definitely improved. I found that the 13/13a firmware sounded thin and slightly noisy - and I don't usually pick up on differences between firmware versions.

 

The 12 firmware sounds a little darker, fuller and weightier, with quieter backgrounds. I'd be interested to know if any other X1 owners have experienced anything similar with the latest firmware.

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I have nothing negative to say about 13/13.0a.

Lumin X1, iFi PRO iDSD, iFi PRO iCAN, Questyle Twelve (Master), Marantz AV8805, McIntosh MC1201s Front L/R with Bryston powering the remaining 5 channels, B&W N-801s, B&W HTM-1 in Tiger Eye, B&W 801 IIIs on the sides and in the rear, JL F212 sub, ReVOX PR-99Mk II, Rega P10 and Alpheta 3, PS Audio Nuwave Phono Amp, Audeze LCD-4 and LCD-XC, Ultimate Ears UE-18, Sony CD3000 rebuilt, Sony VPL-VW995ES, Joe Kane Affinity 120" screen, Cables: Cardas Clear Beyond speaker, Wireworld Platinum Elite 7 RCA, custom (by me) XLRs using affordable, quality parts 🙂

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My X1 sings with Firmware 13/13a. To my ears, it’s a significant upgrade from version 12.

 

I use a preamp, so I have Volume off (100%) and Leedh Volume on in Lumin app settings.

--

Wouldn't you really rather have a Lumin?

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Initially after I bought U1 Mini, I had frequent issues with my USB cable lost contact with the dac when turning on/off the kitchen fan or when my wine cooler turned on/off. Eventually I gave up and used AES/EBU instead with no issues of what so ever. 

 

After the last upgrade to 13/13a I decided to give the USB a new try. I have no played with my Nordost USB since the upgrade with no hick-ups at all. No lost contacts like before, not a single one! I can now enjoy my DSD files again without convert to PCM. On top of this I think the latest upgrade gives a more distinct sound stage. 

 

Could it be that the 13/13a makes the USB output more stable? It seems so...🙂

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