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LUMIN - Audiophile Network Music Player


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16 hours ago, Berlin said:

i cannot find the setting anymore to change the digital output of the Lumin anymore. Is it indeed disappeared?

 

Please update Lumin iOS app to 6.1.17 for this setting on U1 (MINI).

Peter Lie

LUMIN Firmware Lead

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16 hours ago, wklie said:

@Roy Boy Please make sure the Lumin is internet-enabled (i.e. you can play Tidal / Qobuz / Spotify / TuneIn), and firmware upgrade option is turned on.  Power cycle both the Lumin and the iPad, then launch Lumin app again.

Peter,

  Before I got a chance to do that the A1 downloaded the firmware upgrade.  So I am good . Thanks

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Yesterday I have upgraded the firmware to V13 into an Lumin D2. The app told me it was done succesfully. But then the problem started, the Lumin D2 wasn't found anymore in the app. Okay no problem, happend before and power off the Lumin D2 will normally fix that. Well then the problems really started.

 

The Lumin D2 didn't responded, screen stayed off. The networkcard was flashing green, so the connection part was some sort of responding.

 

So next thing what I did is disconnect everything, leave the Lumin a couple of hours off. After a few hours I connected only the Lumin to a powercable, no other connections. And still no response unfortunatly.

 

The last resort was the reset button on the back. Powered off, reset button pushed and started the Lumin again and wait for 20 sec. pushing the reset button. But still no response :(

 

Maybe there is an other option? (firmware rescue or something?)

 

I already contacted my supplier and he mentioned this was the second device that he have sold that was having this behavior. It's on warrenty so it will be solved somehow offcourse.

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On 6/3/2020 at 2:42 AM, wklie said:

Leedh Processing Volume is now a free upgrade for Lumin product line in Firmware 13. (This feature alone costs EUR5000 from another manufacturer.)

 

https://audiophile-magazine.com/wp-content/uploads/2020/06/Audiophile-Magazine-Juin 2020-N°2.pdf

 

I got a chance to test the new Leedh volume control last night briefly. It was fantastic. Typically having an active preamp has produced better performance in my system.  This test has me thinking,....I know this is not recommended...on the A1 what if I used both sets of outputs to drive the amps for my main speakers and the XLRs to drive a pair of active subs? What performance penalty on the A1 would I see? Thanks

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An interesting thought.  I miss the bass my sub provides when going through the AV processor and this may be away to get some it back while going direct.

 

Connecting both sets of outputs won't hurt the electronics and you can let your ears decide if it harms the audio or not.

Denafrips Terminator + DAC fed by a Denafrips GAIA DDC, HTPC running JRiver MC, iFi PRO iCAN Signature headphone amp, Marantz AV8805, OPPO BDP-105 for SACD ripping, Sony UBP-X100ES for watching and listening, McIntosh MC1201s Front L/R with Bryston powering the remaining 5 channels, B&W N-801s, B&W HTM-1 in Tiger Eye, B&W 801 IIIs on the sides and in the rear, JL-F212 sub, ReVOX PR-99Mk II, Rega P10 and Alpheta 3, PS Audio Nuwave Phono Amp, Audeze LCD-4 and LCD-XC, UE18 IEMs, Sony CD3000 rebuilt, Sony VPL-VW995ES laser projector, Joe Kane Affinity 120" screen, Cables: Cardas Clear Beyond speaker, Wireworld Platinum Elite 7 RCA, custom (by me) XLRs using affordable, quality parts 🙂

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Peter, whatever happened to PSME who opened up this thread a long, long time ago?  I miss him (or her)!

Denafrips Terminator + DAC fed by a Denafrips GAIA DDC, HTPC running JRiver MC, iFi PRO iCAN Signature headphone amp, Marantz AV8805, OPPO BDP-105 for SACD ripping, Sony UBP-X100ES for watching and listening, McIntosh MC1201s Front L/R with Bryston powering the remaining 5 channels, B&W N-801s, B&W HTM-1 in Tiger Eye, B&W 801 IIIs on the sides and in the rear, JL-F212 sub, ReVOX PR-99Mk II, Rega P10 and Alpheta 3, PS Audio Nuwave Phono Amp, Audeze LCD-4 and LCD-XC, UE18 IEMs, Sony CD3000 rebuilt, Sony VPL-VW995ES laser projector, Joe Kane Affinity 120" screen, Cables: Cardas Clear Beyond speaker, Wireworld Platinum Elite 7 RCA, custom (by me) XLRs using affordable, quality parts 🙂

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7 hours ago, Roy Boy said:

I got a chance to test the new Leedh volume control last night briefly. It was fantastic. Typically having an active preamp has produced better performance in my system.  This test has me thinking,....I know this is not recommended...on the A1 what if I used both sets of outputs to drive the amps for my main speakers and the XLRs to drive a pair of active subs? What performance penalty on the A1 would I see? Thanks

 

When you do the test of Leedh volume, did you bypass the active preamp?  Any further comment on SQ?

 

As for the SQ penalty when connect both XLR and RCA of Lumin A1 (or T1 or S1 or X1), only you can find out in your system.

Peter Lie

LUMIN Firmware Lead

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1 hour ago, wklie said:

 

When you do the test of Leedh volume, did you bypass the active preamp?  Any further comment on SQ?

 

As for the SQ penalty when connect both XLR and RCA of Lumin A1 (or T1 or S1 or X1), only you can find out in your system.

In my test I was playing back vinyl that had been ripped at 24/382 with an RME ADI-2 Pro ADC. I first played them

in my normal mode  (Lumin - TRL Dude Pre - TRL Samson amps - Green Mountain Audio C-3 HX). Then I re-cabled to

remove the TRL Dude Pre. All the cabling was Silent Source.  I need to do more testing but my initial reaction was that there was more clarity and detail and also more body to the instuments and more dynamics with no apparent trade-offs so far (other than being limited to one source input.).

 

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6 hours ago, Roy Boy said:

In my test I was playing back vinyl that had been ripped at 24/382 with an RME ADI-2 Pro ADC. I first played them

in my normal mode  (Lumin - TRL Dude Pre - TRL Samson amps - Green Mountain Audio C-3 HX). Then I re-cabled to

remove the TRL Dude Pre. All the cabling was Silent Source.  I need to do more testing but my initial reaction was that there was more clarity and detail and also more body to the instuments and more dynamics with no apparent trade-offs so far (other than being limited to one source input.).

 

Wow, I believe that's the world first public post of Lumin A1 Leedh Processing Volume versus active pre-amp A/B comparison.

 

There was extensive beta testing carried out (including users here and Joël Chevassus of 6moons), but those were limited to newer Lumin models.

Peter Lie

LUMIN Firmware Lead

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10 hours ago, wklie said:

@psme sits next to me.  He has other tasks and responds to e-mail.  I'll let him know you miss him.

🤠Tell him hello and let him know it was he who started me down this road with Lumin moving from the A1 to the S1 to the X1, draining my wallet at every step of the way, and now I am saving my nickles and dimes for the successor to the X1.

Denafrips Terminator + DAC fed by a Denafrips GAIA DDC, HTPC running JRiver MC, iFi PRO iCAN Signature headphone amp, Marantz AV8805, OPPO BDP-105 for SACD ripping, Sony UBP-X100ES for watching and listening, McIntosh MC1201s Front L/R with Bryston powering the remaining 5 channels, B&W N-801s, B&W HTM-1 in Tiger Eye, B&W 801 IIIs on the sides and in the rear, JL-F212 sub, ReVOX PR-99Mk II, Rega P10 and Alpheta 3, PS Audio Nuwave Phono Amp, Audeze LCD-4 and LCD-XC, UE18 IEMs, Sony CD3000 rebuilt, Sony VPL-VW995ES laser projector, Joe Kane Affinity 120" screen, Cables: Cardas Clear Beyond speaker, Wireworld Platinum Elite 7 RCA, custom (by me) XLRs using affordable, quality parts 🙂

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Lumin U1 MINI Leedh Processing Volume versus DAC volume: https://community.roonlabs.com/t/lumin-music-leedh-processing/109190/48?u=wklie

 

Quote

For now I use the leedh processing on a U1mini with a Ayon Skylla 2 dac and 813 single end tube power amplifiers with Marten Duke2 speakers in a home office. For me the leedh processing give better results in this configuration than the classical digital volume control of the Lumin, and than the integrated volume control of the Skylla 2 dac. Some years before, I used a Ayon Crossfire integrated amplifier with a motorised ladder volume control and connecting the Skylla2 to the Crossfire by the direct input, bypassing the ladder and using the Skylla volume control, gave far better results in transparency (so take care of the preamplifiers and integrated, the bottleneck is often here behind the pleasure of a colored or limited item). Today the leedh volume control give a bit more relaxed presentation with better tone accuracy, better resolution on fine details, increased naturalness in voices, acoustical instruments that seems less compressed, less planed at one end instead of being gradually attenuated over the entire strip with respect of each levels of dynamics.

 

Peter Lie

LUMIN Firmware Lead

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I have a question for X1 owners:  What is your favorite output, analog, S/PDIF, or USB and why?

Denafrips Terminator + DAC fed by a Denafrips GAIA DDC, HTPC running JRiver MC, iFi PRO iCAN Signature headphone amp, Marantz AV8805, OPPO BDP-105 for SACD ripping, Sony UBP-X100ES for watching and listening, McIntosh MC1201s Front L/R with Bryston powering the remaining 5 channels, B&W N-801s, B&W HTM-1 in Tiger Eye, B&W 801 IIIs on the sides and in the rear, JL-F212 sub, ReVOX PR-99Mk II, Rega P10 and Alpheta 3, PS Audio Nuwave Phono Amp, Audeze LCD-4 and LCD-XC, UE18 IEMs, Sony CD3000 rebuilt, Sony VPL-VW995ES laser projector, Joe Kane Affinity 120" screen, Cables: Cardas Clear Beyond speaker, Wireworld Platinum Elite 7 RCA, custom (by me) XLRs using affordable, quality parts 🙂

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I will probably never have the opportunity to listen to a U1 but I am sure it sounds nice.

 

But, I'll answer my own question here:  I prefer the sonic qualities of the X1's analog output directly into the front end of my amplifiers.  That comes at a cost, however, because I haven't figured out how to integrate the sub I have with the Lumin connected directly and my main speakers slash room configuration leave me wanting in the low end.

 

Note to Lumin:  A wish list item of mine, possibly in the next iteration of your flagship product, you may consider some way to integrate a sub for those of us who don't have the money for the perfect set of speakers and the room in which to place them.

Denafrips Terminator + DAC fed by a Denafrips GAIA DDC, HTPC running JRiver MC, iFi PRO iCAN Signature headphone amp, Marantz AV8805, OPPO BDP-105 for SACD ripping, Sony UBP-X100ES for watching and listening, McIntosh MC1201s Front L/R with Bryston powering the remaining 5 channels, B&W N-801s, B&W HTM-1 in Tiger Eye, B&W 801 IIIs on the sides and in the rear, JL-F212 sub, ReVOX PR-99Mk II, Rega P10 and Alpheta 3, PS Audio Nuwave Phono Amp, Audeze LCD-4 and LCD-XC, UE18 IEMs, Sony CD3000 rebuilt, Sony VPL-VW995ES laser projector, Joe Kane Affinity 120" screen, Cables: Cardas Clear Beyond speaker, Wireworld Platinum Elite 7 RCA, custom (by me) XLRs using affordable, quality parts 🙂

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Does your sub have speaker terminal inputs  or line only? 

Den: Kef LS50 Wireless, Velodyne SPL1200, Lumin D1, Cayin SCD50T, Jolida D9, Technics 1200, Denon DL160, Wireworld Eclipse Silver 7 IC

Livingroom: T+A PA1530 r Integrated Amplifier, Innous Zen MKIII, L.K.S audio MH Da004, Tyler Acoustics Highland H2, High Fidelity Reveal IC, Wireworld Eclipse Silver 8 Speaker cable. 

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Line level only.  Balance and unbalanced.  It's a JL Fathom 212.  I've been thinking about running a line from the unused unbalance output of the X1 but have not gone that particular route due to recommendations from Lumin to not do so and the problems of integrating the sub manually.

Denafrips Terminator + DAC fed by a Denafrips GAIA DDC, HTPC running JRiver MC, iFi PRO iCAN Signature headphone amp, Marantz AV8805, OPPO BDP-105 for SACD ripping, Sony UBP-X100ES for watching and listening, McIntosh MC1201s Front L/R with Bryston powering the remaining 5 channels, B&W N-801s, B&W HTM-1 in Tiger Eye, B&W 801 IIIs on the sides and in the rear, JL-F212 sub, ReVOX PR-99Mk II, Rega P10 and Alpheta 3, PS Audio Nuwave Phono Amp, Audeze LCD-4 and LCD-XC, UE18 IEMs, Sony CD3000 rebuilt, Sony VPL-VW995ES laser projector, Joe Kane Affinity 120" screen, Cables: Cardas Clear Beyond speaker, Wireworld Platinum Elite 7 RCA, custom (by me) XLRs using affordable, quality parts 🙂

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In this particular case, perhaps you should try it and hear for yourself whether you hear any degradation.

 

Alternatively, personally I think REL subwoofer high level input is ideal for 2-channel music as long as you're not using a Class D amplifier.

Peter Lie

LUMIN Firmware Lead

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JL Fathom 212 is a beautiful sub.  I wish it had balanced or unbalanced out instead of just a slave out.  

 

 

 

Den: Kef LS50 Wireless, Velodyne SPL1200, Lumin D1, Cayin SCD50T, Jolida D9, Technics 1200, Denon DL160, Wireworld Eclipse Silver 7 IC

Livingroom: T+A PA1530 r Integrated Amplifier, Innous Zen MKIII, L.K.S audio MH Da004, Tyler Acoustics Highland H2, High Fidelity Reveal IC, Wireworld Eclipse Silver 8 Speaker cable. 

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On 6/6/2020 at 5:29 AM, wklie said:

@WickedGame Please hold the reset pin when you power it on.  Keep holding it for 20 more seconds.  If no small text appears on screen, I'm afraid it requires service.  Sorry.


Hi Wklie,

 

I did, but the unit won’t start. Display stayed off. I already spoke the dealer, he is going to call the import dealer of the Netherlands. I will bring it in for service.

 

It is a pity to have no music now 😁 hopefully it can be fixed, because I like the LUMIN D2. 

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15 minutes ago, wklie said:

In this particular case, perhaps you should try it and hear for yourself whether you hear any degradation.

 

Alternatively, personally I think REL subwoofer high level input is ideal for 2-channel music as long as you're not using a Class D amplifier.

Regarding trying it myself, I think I already have confirmation bias that says it won't sound like I want.

 

The REL would be a very good solution if I hadn't already invested in the JL.  There may be a device out there, like a line tap or something, that I could put between the amplifier and the speaker to "create" a line level signal to be fed to the sub.

 

That or maybe I could get over the need to have a "preponderance" of bass and just go with what the B&W N801's provide.

Denafrips Terminator + DAC fed by a Denafrips GAIA DDC, HTPC running JRiver MC, iFi PRO iCAN Signature headphone amp, Marantz AV8805, OPPO BDP-105 for SACD ripping, Sony UBP-X100ES for watching and listening, McIntosh MC1201s Front L/R with Bryston powering the remaining 5 channels, B&W N-801s, B&W HTM-1 in Tiger Eye, B&W 801 IIIs on the sides and in the rear, JL-F212 sub, ReVOX PR-99Mk II, Rega P10 and Alpheta 3, PS Audio Nuwave Phono Amp, Audeze LCD-4 and LCD-XC, UE18 IEMs, Sony CD3000 rebuilt, Sony VPL-VW995ES laser projector, Joe Kane Affinity 120" screen, Cables: Cardas Clear Beyond speaker, Wireworld Platinum Elite 7 RCA, custom (by me) XLRs using affordable, quality parts 🙂

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12 minutes ago, erniejade said:

JL Fathom 212 is a beautiful sub.  I wish it had balanced or unbalanced out instead of just a slave out.  

 

 

 

I like it a lot.  It's a beast, has served me well and, as I live in a townhouse community, my neighbors can attest to just how powerful it can get.

Denafrips Terminator + DAC fed by a Denafrips GAIA DDC, HTPC running JRiver MC, iFi PRO iCAN Signature headphone amp, Marantz AV8805, OPPO BDP-105 for SACD ripping, Sony UBP-X100ES for watching and listening, McIntosh MC1201s Front L/R with Bryston powering the remaining 5 channels, B&W N-801s, B&W HTM-1 in Tiger Eye, B&W 801 IIIs on the sides and in the rear, JL-F212 sub, ReVOX PR-99Mk II, Rega P10 and Alpheta 3, PS Audio Nuwave Phono Amp, Audeze LCD-4 and LCD-XC, UE18 IEMs, Sony CD3000 rebuilt, Sony VPL-VW995ES laser projector, Joe Kane Affinity 120" screen, Cables: Cardas Clear Beyond speaker, Wireworld Platinum Elite 7 RCA, custom (by me) XLRs using affordable, quality parts 🙂

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Just power cycled the X1 due to wanting to physically reconfigure my rack and noted the nod to Leedh during the unit's boot sequence.  Well deserved credit both to the inventor and the implementor team for sure!

Denafrips Terminator + DAC fed by a Denafrips GAIA DDC, HTPC running JRiver MC, iFi PRO iCAN Signature headphone amp, Marantz AV8805, OPPO BDP-105 for SACD ripping, Sony UBP-X100ES for watching and listening, McIntosh MC1201s Front L/R with Bryston powering the remaining 5 channels, B&W N-801s, B&W HTM-1 in Tiger Eye, B&W 801 IIIs on the sides and in the rear, JL-F212 sub, ReVOX PR-99Mk II, Rega P10 and Alpheta 3, PS Audio Nuwave Phono Amp, Audeze LCD-4 and LCD-XC, UE18 IEMs, Sony CD3000 rebuilt, Sony VPL-VW995ES laser projector, Joe Kane Affinity 120" screen, Cables: Cardas Clear Beyond speaker, Wireworld Platinum Elite 7 RCA, custom (by me) XLRs using affordable, quality parts 🙂

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Wkile, I just looked at what firmware my D1 is running and its on 11.  I see 13 is out.  In the past it has automatically updated. What do i need to do to upload to the latest 2020 version? 

Den: Kef LS50 Wireless, Velodyne SPL1200, Lumin D1, Cayin SCD50T, Jolida D9, Technics 1200, Denon DL160, Wireworld Eclipse Silver 7 IC

Livingroom: T+A PA1530 r Integrated Amplifier, Innous Zen MKIII, L.K.S audio MH Da004, Tyler Acoustics Highland H2, High Fidelity Reveal IC, Wireworld Eclipse Silver 8 Speaker cable. 

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