Cycleman Posted January 13, 2014 Share Posted January 13, 2014 Well, in this sport of subtleties it all comes down to preference now doesn't it Dave. I'd say 3 strikes and your out .. send the cable back and buy more music Melvin, I like your baseball analogy. But in this sport of auditioning audio gizmos, is it just one at bat (3 strikes and you're out)? Or is it a whole ballgame, or perhaps a 162-game season with a post-season for those special parts? Dave, who is both stubborn and understands that subtleties and subjectivity go hand in hand ++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++ Music is love, made audible. ++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++ Link to comment
4est Posted January 14, 2014 Share Posted January 14, 2014 Simply cut the 5v (red) wire and insert a switch or something. I'd be careful with taping the contacts lest you wear out the USB port of your expensive kit. IF YOU FIND A way, please let me know !! Forrest: Win10 i9 9900KS/GTX1060 HQPlayer4>Win10 NAA DSD>Pavel's DSC2.6>Bent Audio TAP> Parasound JC1>"Naked" Quad ESL63/Tannoy PS350B subs<100Hz Link to comment
Le Concombre Masqué Posted January 14, 2014 Share Posted January 14, 2014 Simply cut the 5v (red) wire and insert a switch or something. I'd be careful with taping the contacts lest you wear out the USB port of your expensive kit. Thank you Forest. That means I have to strip the cable until I see each individual wire ? doesn't it come at the expense of shielding ? but maybe I have not got you right. For I would slice anywhere in the middle to do that and insert a switch while you mention taping the contacts... On the other hand I wonder if the TEAC 501 doesn't do it... there's a setting called "auto usb" supposed, says the manual, to unpower the usb port if another entry is used. I wonder if it does not switch it after dac and computer have "shaken hands" Link to comment
mordante Posted January 14, 2014 Share Posted January 14, 2014 Has any tried the ifi iUSB with a M2tech hiFace? The hiFace can be directly plugged into the iUSB I presume? Maybe it is a bit odd combination since the iUSB costs more then the hiFace but still I am curious. [br] Link to comment
4est Posted January 15, 2014 Share Posted January 15, 2014 If you are careful and thoughtful, I suspect that you could keep the shield intact- except for where you break into it of course. The switch would make up the difference in lengths, and the wire could remain straight. Thank you Forest. That means I have to strip the cable until I see each individual wire ? doesn't it come at the expense of shielding ? but maybe I have not got you right. For I would slice anywhere in the middle to do that and insert a switch while you mention taping the contacts... On the other hand I wonder if the TEAC 501 doesn't do it... there's a setting called "auto usb" supposed, says the manual, to unpower the usb port if another entry is used. I wonder if it does not switch it after dac and computer have "shaken hands" Forrest: Win10 i9 9900KS/GTX1060 HQPlayer4>Win10 NAA DSD>Pavel's DSC2.6>Bent Audio TAP> Parasound JC1>"Naked" Quad ESL63/Tannoy PS350B subs<100Hz Link to comment
alan_un Posted January 25, 2014 Share Posted January 25, 2014 I received my iUSB power supply and Gemini cable yesterday - finally after having placed the first order last year in June - and have inserted it into the Mytek with a Totaldac USB cable and filter feeding from the computer into the iUSB Power. What I hear now is so far the best DSD sound I ever had, and the ifi gear is not even burnt in. The next step is trying it on my LKS DAC with a two computer setup and Adnaco extension. I can hardly wait to hear what this sounds like. alan Link to comment
hifitubes Posted March 13, 2014 Share Posted March 13, 2014 I received my iUSB power supply and Gemini cable yesterday - finally after having placed the first order last year in June - and have inserted it into the Mytek with a Totaldac USB cable and filter feeding from the computer into the iUSB Power. What I hear now is so far the best DSD sound I ever had, and the ifi gear is not even burnt in.The next step is trying it on my LKS DAC with a two computer setup and Adnaco extension. I can hardly wait to hear what this sounds like. Adnaco S3B or the backplane? How did it pan out? DIGITAL: Windows 7 x64 JRMC19 >Adnaco S3B fiber over USB (battery power)> Auralic Vega > Tortuga LDR custom LPSU > Zu Union Cubes + Deep Hemp Sub ANALOG: PTP Audio Solid 9 > Audiomods Series V > Audio Technica Art-7 MC > Allnic H1201 > Tortuga LDR > Zu Union Cubes + Deep Hemp Sub ACCESSORIES: PlatterSpeed, BlackCat cables, Antipodes Cables, Huffman Cables, Feickert Protracter, OMA Graphite mat, JRemote Link to comment
alan_un Posted March 13, 2014 Share Posted March 13, 2014 I'm using the Adnaco S1B on this dual PC setup with a SOtM card and SOtM external power supply on the backplane. The setup has changed from my earlier post insofar as the Mytek is not fed from the ifi USB directly but receives the signal into its SDIF inputs coming from an exD device which converts USB into SDIF. This only works with the Mytek Mastering version, but it sounds significantly better than the Myteks fed through its USB or Fiirewire input. alan Link to comment
tranz Posted March 24, 2014 Share Posted March 24, 2014 I'm using the Adnaco S1B on this dual PC setup with a SOtM card and SOtM external power supply on the backplane. The setup has changed from my earlier post insofar as the Mytek is not fed from the ifi USB directly but receives the signal into its SDIF inputs coming from an exD device which converts USB into SDIF. This only works with the Mytek Mastering version, but it sounds significantly better than the Myteks fed through its USB or Fiirewire input. Hi alan_un, Are you using IFI USB and Adnaco together? Do you notice a difference in IFI solo, Adnaco solo, or combined? Does the Mytek have opto-isolators inbuilt? Thanks. Link to comment
alan_un Posted March 24, 2014 Share Posted March 24, 2014 Hi tranz, yes I use the Adnaco extension together with the ifi USB setup. The Adnaco alone was not as good as with the ifi USB. I have not tried the ifi USB setup (power, Gemini cable and USB filter) without Adnaco. I am sorry, but I could not tell you if Mytek has opto-isolators, perhaps some of the seasoned Mytek users could chime in here . alan Link to comment
tranz Posted March 25, 2014 Share Posted March 25, 2014 Hi tranz, yes I use the Adnaco extension together with the ifi USB setup. The Adnaco alone was not as good as with the ifi USB. I have not tried the ifi USB setup (power, Gemini cable and USB filter) without Adnaco. I am sorry, but I could not tell you if Mytek has opto-isolators, perhaps some of the seasoned Mytek users could chime in here . Thanks Alan, I am trying to decide whether to plonk down more money on a Mac motherboard that has a PCIe slot instead of my current Mac Mini mobo, so that I can use an Adnaco. I already have an IFI USB with LPSU and USB-SPDIF converter, but there is still a fatigue factor in my system. It has been confirmed that SoTM, JPlay and PPA USB cards are Windows only. Adnaco looks to be OS agnostic even though I have not found any Mac user with one yet. It is also not clear whether the Adnaco trades electric isolation for jitter. The journey continues... Cheers. Link to comment
fmak Posted March 25, 2014 Share Posted March 25, 2014 I'm using the Adnaco S1B on this dual PC setup with a SOtM card and SOtM external power supply on the backplane. The setup has changed from my earlier post insofar as the Mytek is not fed from the ifi USB directly but receives the signal into its SDIF inputs coming from an exD device which converts USB into SDIF. This only works with the Mytek Mastering version, but it sounds significantly better than the Myteks fed through its USB or Fiirewire input. I also find the Mytek to have a good spdif input, although the connector impedance as supplied is wring and the short cable inside shuld be spaced out to maintain correct sepration. Same with the sdif inputs. The Mytek usb input has, to my ears, some coluration even fed thru the iFi Power with Gemini. fmak Link to comment
tranz Posted March 25, 2014 Share Posted March 25, 2014 IF YOU FIND A way, please let me know !! Tried but no dice. The only feasible workaround is to use a clean 5v like an IFI USB, or if you have Windows, a PPA card or a JPlay or SoTM card with a LPSU. Adnaco S3B might also be an option but I do not know whether it filters the 5v. I think I may have mentioned this elsewhere, but instead of tape you can cut a tiny bit of plastic from those little plastic bits in a collared work shirt. Just the right thickness. Link to comment
kbkaran Posted April 4, 2014 Share Posted April 4, 2014 Just to wanted to chime in on the ifi iusb's value. I recently added a Bel Canto uLInk usb-to-spdif converter to my squeezebox+EDO feeding a TACT S2150 Direct Digital Integrated amplified. The sound improved, but not so much. I could hear more details at higher volumes but still it was as though it was a bit "soft" or "smudged". The iFi iUSB immediately brought the vibrancy back into the music. I tried powering the Squeezebox also with the iUSB but I guess it cannot drive both the SB and the uLink. The uLInk for sure seems to draw some good amount of current from the usb power rails. It really needs something like the iUSB. One of the reasons probably why the REFLink sounds much better. Also, I believe most of the usb cable problems are coming from supplying DC over more than a metre of wire (and probably some nois. My belkin gold 6ft is better than freebie cables and I think if it were available in shorter lengths it might challenge the audiophile cables (which are the only ones available at shorter lengths). Link to comment
reverendo Posted April 4, 2014 Share Posted April 4, 2014 Just to wanted to chime in on the ifi iusb's value. I recently added a Bel Canto uLInk usb-to-spdif converter to my squeezebox+EDO feeding a TACT S2150 Direct Digital Integrated amplified. The sound improved, but not so much. I could hear more details at higher volumes but still it was as though it was a bit "soft" or "smudged". The iFi iUSB immediately brought the vibrancy back into the music. I tried powering the Squeezebox also with the iUSB but I guess it cannot drive both the SB and the uLink. The uLInk for sure seems to draw some good amount of current from the usb power rails. It really needs something like the iUSB. One of the reasons probably why the REFLink sounds much better. Also, I believe most of the usb cable problems are coming from supplying DC over more than a metre of wire (and probably some nois. My belkin gold 6ft is better than freebie cables and I think if it were available in shorter lengths it might challenge the audiophile cables (which are the only ones available at shorter lengths). thanks for the update. did you get to compare the Welborne to the iUSB as a PS? LDMS Minix Server>Lampizator TRP w/ VC>Gryphon Diablo>Heil Kithara Cables: Douglas Cables 'Mirage'', (Power); Douglas Cables 'Mirage' (XLR); Douglas Cables "GLIA" (speaker cables & jumper); FTA Callisto (USB) Accessories: Furutech GTX-D (G) with cover, MIT Z Duplex Super; Equitech Balanced Power, Sistrum (for Diablo & TRP) Link to comment
kbkaran Posted April 5, 2014 Share Posted April 5, 2014 reverendo, looks like the iUSB does not have enough current capacity to power the Squeezebox. My SB dies shortly after booting up. This is with just powering the SB alone. Earlier, I tried powering both the uLInk (over usb) and SB and was not successful either. Looks like it can do only 1A, Might be too less for both the devices (or just the SB alone). Right now, I am fine with it, providing only usb power to the uLink. Link to comment
hifitubes Posted April 6, 2014 Share Posted April 6, 2014 Tried but no dice. The only feasible workaround is to use a clean 5v like an IFI USB, or if you have Windows, a PPA card or a JPlay or SoTM card with a LPSU. Adnaco S3B might also be an option but I do not know whether it filters the 5v. I think I may have mentioned this elsewhere, but instead of tape you can cut a tiny bit of plastic from those little plastic bits in a collared work shirt. Just the right thickness. I know you asked, but I have not picked up the iFi USB, so not testing here with Adnaco. I passed because it ultimately seemed redundant to me since I run my Adnaco off of battery power, or via my upcoming LPSU (which would also power the Tortuga LDR volume control). Now the iFi claims to have a very nice psu "quiter than battery". But I'm not clear why it does not work like the SoTM USB, for example. Where if your DAC just needs 5V for handshake, you could turn off the 5V manually. iFi seems to have Power/Power-Data outputs...is that true? With Adnaco you have more freedom for a longer run to your PC, but it's not cheap. I don't think jitter is an issue with the Adnaco. As I posted elsewhere I run the very demanding EXACT clock mode on the Auralic Vega with it, and find no issues. Adnaco stated to me: " The S3B uses a high quality oscillator intended for high-speed applications. It has low jitter and low phase noise. The power requirements for the S3B power supply are as follows: 1A for the USB adapter itself plus 0.5A per USB2.0 port/device or 0.9A per USB3.0 port/device So with a 5V/2.1A power supply you can connect 2 USB2.0/1.x devices or 1 USB3.0 device." I should pick up an iFi for my 2nd system in the works, and maybe an iFi Purifier. If I do, I will try it with Adnaco. DIGITAL: Windows 7 x64 JRMC19 >Adnaco S3B fiber over USB (battery power)> Auralic Vega > Tortuga LDR custom LPSU > Zu Union Cubes + Deep Hemp Sub ANALOG: PTP Audio Solid 9 > Audiomods Series V > Audio Technica Art-7 MC > Allnic H1201 > Tortuga LDR > Zu Union Cubes + Deep Hemp Sub ACCESSORIES: PlatterSpeed, BlackCat cables, Antipodes Cables, Huffman Cables, Feickert Protracter, OMA Graphite mat, JRemote Link to comment
Mike Gillespie Posted April 6, 2014 Share Posted April 6, 2014 My recommendation is to use your best cable to the ifi, and either use a hard adapter to your DAC if you can or the 6" Belkin from Amazon. This is what I'm doing as soon as I receive my unit...but it seems to be taking a while to get in stock... No need to run 2 cables IMO. Junker, Do you have a link to this hard adapter? Thanks. MG555 Link to comment
reverendo Posted April 7, 2014 Share Posted April 7, 2014 reverendo, looks like the iUSB does not have enough current capacity to power the Squeezebox. My SB dies shortly after booting up. This is with just powering the SB alone. Earlier, I tried powering both the uLInk (over usb) and SB and was not successful either. Looks like it can do only 1A, Might be too less for both the devices (or just the SB alone). Right now, I am fine with it, providing only usb power to the uLink. thanks for looking into this. I know that there issues, but it seems that iFi has a way to make it work with the SBT. it seems to have to do with the sequence with which you connect it. did you get a chance to ask them? best regards LDMS Minix Server>Lampizator TRP w/ VC>Gryphon Diablo>Heil Kithara Cables: Douglas Cables 'Mirage'', (Power); Douglas Cables 'Mirage' (XLR); Douglas Cables "GLIA" (speaker cables & jumper); FTA Callisto (USB) Accessories: Furutech GTX-D (G) with cover, MIT Z Duplex Super; Equitech Balanced Power, Sistrum (for Diablo & TRP) Link to comment
diwakarv Posted July 12, 2014 Share Posted July 12, 2014 It doesn't hurt to have a try. I'm confused why it degraded the sound of Stahl~Tek though (I was expecting no improvement only). Even with my Bel Canto uLink, I'm not sure whether iUSB improved the sound or not. With it, the background seems cleaner but the system lost some dynamics. I am experiencing exact same thing, background cleaner but lost dynamics . I am using HD3 USB conrad johnson DAC. Link to comment
ellevoid Posted August 8, 2014 Share Posted August 8, 2014 Did anyone had a chance to compare iUSB and Schiit Wyrd? Link to comment
carmagff Posted August 18, 2014 Share Posted August 18, 2014 I'm using the Adnaco S1B on this dual PC setup with a SOtM card and SOtM external power supply on the backplane. The setup has changed from my earlier post insofar as the Mytek is not fed from the ifi USB directly but receives the signal into its SDIF inputs coming from an exD device which converts USB into SDIF. This only works with the Mytek Mastering version, but it sounds significantly better than the Myteks fed through its USB or Fiirewire input. Hello, Alan. Any thoughts about how much power will be sufficient to power Adnaco R1BP1B with installed Sotm tx-usbexp? Sotm will be power independently. I wonder maybe Kingrex PSU 12V-3A with PicoPSU-80 will be enough... Alex. Link to comment
Recommended Posts
Create an account or sign in to comment
You need to be a member in order to leave a comment
Create an account
Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!
Register a new accountSign in
Already have an account? Sign in here.
Sign In Now